Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Photography and portraiture - Japanese kimono culture and its characteristics
Japanese kimono culture and its characteristics
Kimono originated in the Tang Dynasty in China, and the word "dress" in Japanese originated from the robes of the Tang Dynasty in China. Due to the prosperity of the Tang dynasty, Chinese and foreign costumes influenced each other at this time. It is said that Japanese kimono was "transplanted" from Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces in China at this time.
Around the 3rd century A.D., according to the Japanese Biography of Wei Zhi, "Use a piece of cloth with a hole in the middle and a head through it, so there is no need to cut it." This is the prototype of kimono. In the Daiwa era, the Japanese king sent envoys to China three times, bringing back a large number of Han weavers, Wu weavers and craftsmen who were good at textile and sewing techniques. Most of the immigrants from China who went to Fusang were literati and craftsmen, who introduced China's clothing style to Japan. In Nara era (AD 7 18), the Japanese sent a delegation of envoys from the Tang Dynasty to China, which was received by the King of the Tang Dynasty and given a large number of royal robes. These clothes are dazzling and very popular in Japan. At that time, all Japanese civil and military officials were envious. The following year, the Japanese monarch ordered that the whole country of Japan should wear clothes imitating the Sui and Tang Dynasties.
/kloc-In the Muromachi era in the 0/4th century, according to Japanese traditional habits and aesthetic tastes, costumes with Sui and Tang characteristics gradually evolved and finally finalized, and there was no big change in the following 600 years. As for wallets, Japanese women were influenced by Christian missionaries wearing robes and belts. At first, the wallet was in the front, and later it was moved to the back. 1868, before the Meiji Restoration, the Japanese all wore kimonos, but after the Meiji Restoration, men in the upper class began to wear suits, also known as "foreign clothes".
During the Great Kanto Earthquake in Japan 1923, women were still wearing kimonos, so they suffered misfortune or physical injury due to mobility difficulties. Since then, Japanese women have gradually changed to dresses or other clothes. However, kimono is still the Japanese favorite. People wearing traditional kimonos can be seen everywhere in festivals, graduation ceremonies, weddings, funerals and other important occasions to celebrate children's July 3rd.
Kimono's two sleeves are knotted on the left shoulder, the waist is fixed with a pin, and the lower slit is a newly designed sleeveless kimono. A straight kimono with wrinkled cloth. Put the kimono on the gown and fix the waist with a pin. Move. Sleeves are light and elegant. Kimono is a traditional costume of the Japanese nation, which was formed on the basis of the costume of China in the Tang Dynasty through the evolution of 1000 years. The Japanese vividly expressed their feelings about art with kimonos.
Kimono culture
Kimono is also called "five clothes" in Japan. Kimono is a traditional national costume in Japan. Because more than 90% of Japan's population belongs to the "Yamato" nationality, it is named after this. It is also called "dressing" in Japanese. Besides keeping warm and protecting the body, kimono has high artistic value. In particular, women's kimonos are brightly colored, beautiful in style and equipped with beautiful wide belts at the waist, which is simply a work of art.
Because this kind of clothing is more suitable for Japanese body shape and climate, it has become a national costume that Japanese people like. There is a custom in Japanese families: whenever a girl reaches the age of 3 or 7, her parents and relatives will give her a "wishing kimono"; On March 3rd, "Girls' Day" and May 5th, "Boys' Day", kimono is the most precious gift for adults to give their children.
There are many kinds of kimonos with different styles, regardless of color, texture and style, which have undergone thousands of years of changes. Men's kimonos are single in color, mostly dark, mostly brown, dark blue and black. Generally, family symbols are hung on both sides of the chest, which is called family line. Women's kimonos are rich in colors, wide in belts and varied in types and styles. When wearing a kimono, you usually wear a rolled waist and a close-fitting petticoat inside, then a close-fitting undershirt, and then different colors of kimonos outside. You must also wear cloth socks and clogs or grass clogs, and comb your hair into a bun at the same time. Leaving a long white jade neck. The exquisite weaving, dyeing and embroidery of kimono make it look like a work of art.
The fabric of kimono used to be cotton, but now it's all silk, and a little wool. Summer kimono, generally made of leno fabric, has only one layer; In winter, kimono is made of heavy "MOM E" silk. Kimono generally has three layers, the first layer is fabric, the second layer is lining, and the third layer is underwear. These three layers are all hand-sewn with white thread. High-grade kimono fabrics are hand-embroidered and hand-painted, which are very exquisite, so the price is also very expensive. A simple kimono costs180,000 yen, and a kimono for a wedding costs several million yen. Some even reach tens of millions of yen.
Color taboo of kimono
The book China Folk Taboos once divided the colors of clothing into: expensive color taboo, cheap color taboo, fierce color taboo and bright color taboo. According to the Book of Rites, the clothes of Tianqi vary in color due to different seasons, and are divided into five colors: blue, red, yellow, white and black according to the yin and yang elements of the season. Emperor Taizong Zhenguan set the color of official robes for four years, and purple was listed in front of Zhu: purple clothes were more than three products; Four products and five products; Six products are dark green; Seven products.
Light green; Eight products are dark blue; Nine products are light green. It can be said that color taboos in Japanese history are similar to these in different degrees.
In 605, in the 1 1 year of Japanese monarchy, Shoto Kutaishi promulgated the Crown DecreeNo. 12, and used the Crown according to this decree. From top to bottom, it is morality (purple), benevolence (green), courtesy (red), faith (yellow), righteousness (white) and wisdom (black). These six colors and crowns are subdivided into two types: size and size, with * * * twelve orders.
In Japanese history, orange, crimson, cyan and purple were designated as the dress colors of crown prince, emperor's father, Japanese monarch and prince, which restricted others' use. Especially crimson and purple, are not allowed to be used by people outside the royal family. This rule continued until 1945.
On the murals of Takamatsu's ancient tomb in Japan, there are not only portraits of men and women in Tang costumes, but also portraits of Qinglong, Suzaku, White Tiger and Xuanwu (black turtle) as the patrons of the Quartet. Until today, in some parts of Japan, white and red are generally not used for grand ceremonies when wearing kimonos. Because white represents holiness and purity; Red symbolizes magic.
Characteristics of kimono
When making kimono, people seldom have the influence of receptor type. People of different sizes, even wearing kimonos of the same size, rarely give people the impression that their clothes don't fit. Because it can vary from person to person, adjust the waist size. Although kimono is basically composed of straight lines and inserted into the body in a straight tube shape, it lacks the display of human body curves, but it can show solemnity, stability and tranquility, which conforms to the Japanese temperament. Not only that, kimono also conforms to the nature of Japan; Most parts of Japan are warm and humid, so ventilation of clothes is very important. Because the kimono is loose, there are as many as eight "air holes" on the clothes, and the sleeves, lapels and welts of the kimono can be opened and closed freely, which is very suitable for the local climate in Japan. There are "similarities" and "differences" in the styles and ways of wearing various kimonos. It is these "differences" that make clothing have an important function: to show identity, age and social class. Take the women's kimono as an example, this "small difference" is mainly manifested in the sleeves. Kimono sleeves can be roughly divided into "black sleeves", "colored sleeves", "local vibration sleeves" and "medium vibration sleeves", and so on. The so-called "sleeve retention" means that the sleeves are relatively short. "Black Sleeves" kimonos are often decorated with exquisite patterns. This is a kind of clothing for middle-aged women, which is usually worn in more grand and solemn occasions, such as weddings and banquets. "Color sleeves" are kimonos of various colors. People who wear clothes are younger than those who wear "black sleeves", and they also wear dresses on grand occasions. "Vibrating sleeves" is a traditional costume of unmarried young women in Japan, which is luxurious and generally only worn at celebrations, graduation and New Year (even now, few people wear this kimono). The so-called "vibrating sleeves" are long sleeves, often as long as 1 m and hanging down to the ankle. In addition, there is a kind of kimono called "color without land", which is usually worn. There is no pattern in Color Without Land, but there is color.
Breathability is a great advantage and feature of kimono, so the cuffs, skirts and pleats of kimono can be opened and closed freely. But this kind of opening and closing, especially the opening and closing of the skirt, has a lot to pay attention to. Different opening and closing have different meanings, showing different identities of the wearer. For example, when an artist wears a kimono, the skirt is always open, and only one belt is tied at the V-shaped intersection of the skirt. This way of dressing not only gives people a sense of kimono, but also shows an implicit beauty, which can better show the identity of women engaged in this profession. On the other hand, if women who are not engaged in this profession wear kimonos, they must accept skirts. However, even if the skirt is closed, the degree is exquisite, which shows the marital status of the wearer: if it is a married woman, the skirt does not have to be completely closed, and it can be opened near the neck. But if you are an unmarried girl, you must fold all your skirts.
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