How to make a painting look like a painting?

1, preliminary preparation

Prepare the photos to be processed (high resolution! The resolution should be large! The resolution should be large! Important things are said three times) and anime-style sky material. The original image used here is:

Note: this tutorial is only suitable for dealing with landscapes, not people (this is very important, but it was omitted in the first edition of the tutorial). Moreover, the treatment of scenery is not suitable for dynamic objects such as vehicles and running water, so it is actually quite picking photos. As for why, I don't need to say it here. Please refer to "Frequently Asked Questions".

So what kind of photos are good? There are no people's streets, railways and stations, campus architectural scenery, cherry blossom alleys, pavilions, mountains full of red maple, no passers-by, no water features, no sky that is difficult to dig. Before the next step, it is suggested to adjust the photo size to 1920× 1080 pixels (yes, this is it 1080p).

2. Oil painting filter

Now I think the "dry brush" filter in the original tutorial is useless, so I only used the "oil painting" filter. The oil painting filter is located in the filter menu, and Photoshop CC 20 14 may not have this filter.

The six parameters currently used are 0. 1, 5, 10, 0, 0 and 0. You can use the values of these parameters as a reference first, and then master them yourself after doing more. If you feel that the effect is not strong after using the filter, you can Ctrl+F(Mac is? F) double.

3. Camera raw data filter

Although the "oil painting" filter is very important, you may not notice any obvious changes at this moment. Don't worry, you will see the effect after using the camera raw data filter. This filter is located in the Filters menu of Photoshop CC.

As shown in the figure, exposure+1 minimizes contrast and maximizes shadow, black, clarity and natural saturation.

4. Stealing the day

Dig out the blue sky, and then replace it with the animation-style sky material prepared in advance (continue to be lazy to use Makoto Shinkai's cloud). There are many methods of matting, so I won't go into details here. If the sky in your original film is pure blue or pure gray (that is, there is no cloud), it only takes 10 second at most to use the wand tool.

After changing the material of the sky, remember to adjust the exposure of the sky with "curve" or other tools to make it coordinate with the foreground. In fact, at this point, a good work has been completed for most people.

5. Final repair

The contrast between comics and movies is lower than that of photos, so I often add an "adjustment" layer in the final repair to reduce the contrast.

In addition, you can also observe the use of colors such as blue-purple (dark part) and warm yellow (bright part) with low saturation in Makoto Shinkai's works, process your works by means of "color balance", and then add a little warm yellow light spot to the bright part. Subsequent adjustments can be made according to the actual situation, such as the adjustment of lens halo and light and shadow, as shown in the following figure: