Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Photography and portraiture - What styles did people wear in the Wei and Jin Dynasties?

What styles did people wear in the Wei and Jin Dynasties?

One. Women's wear:

1.

Skirt is a kind of dress in women's wear in Wei and Jin Dynasties. During the Wei and Jin Dynasties, clothing inherited the style of pursuing prosperity and luxury in the Eastern Han Dynasty, and a unique clothing style-clothing appeared. The coat is a style with sharp corners on both sides of the clothes, which comes from the two corners of the "cross" of the deep clothes since the Han Dynasty. The so-called horizontal cutting is a cutting method of cutting the left and right slits of deep clothes into sharp corners and covering the sides of the human body. On this basis, the popular clothing in Wei and Jin Dynasties continued to extend two corners, becoming longer, narrower and more dynamic. These long horns that continue on clothes are called "horns" or "knives". Not only in the corner, but also on both sides of the knee pads, there are often pendants, usually several gauze soft belts, which are called "Genus". The beauty of big sleeves can be seen from Goddess Luo Fu and A Map of Women's Benevolence and Wisdom. These women are wearing right collars and Hu Da sleeves, dragging their skirts, and the skirts are flying. This is the word "Hua Fei Fei".

2. Big cuffs

Big sleeves were popular in women's wear in Wei and Jin Dynasties, but they were put in the mouth, commonly known as "lantern sleeves". Since the pre-Qin and Han dynasties, the belt was generally less than 3 inches wide, but in Wei and Jin dynasties, a wide cloth was tied around the waist of women's clothes, with a narrow band on it and a knot in front. This waist-girding method is a new style that emerged in the late Eastern Han Dynasty, probably related to the popularity of thin waist at that time. Moreover, this waist-binding method has obviously influenced the waist-binding method of Japanese kimono.

3. Masked Zen costumes

During the Eastern Han Dynasty and the Jin Dynasty, men and women were popular in wearing an elegant gauze Zen costume. For example, in A History of Women, the woman who combs her hair in front of the mirror wears a reddish tulle that can reveal her clothes, which shows that "the clothes are gorgeous and light."

4. flared sleeves, double-breasted buttons, round underwear and culottes.

Some people concluded that one of the characteristics of Wei and Jin costumes was "frugality and wealth". In fact, this feature should be truly reflected after the Eastern Jin Dynasty crossed the south. In order to adapt to the hot weather in the south, a series of changes have taken place in the costumes of the Central Plains. The figurines unearthed in the tombs of the Southern Dynasties often wear cuffs and flared lapels, and the overlapping lapels are also changed to double-breasted ones. There is a kind of T-shirts that can't be handed in, and some of them are just like our T-shirts today. At the same time, the waist is no longer complicated, and some even have no waist, which corresponds to a loose lower skirt, which is conducive to heat dissipation. Later, with the increasing influence of the northern conference semifinals, the pleated skirts of nomadic people were accepted by the Eastern Jin Dynasty, and the wide skirts were also popular in the Southern Dynasties. Girls wearing skirts are generally girls with double skirts, such as the girls around Chen Feidi in the map of emperors in previous dynasties.

Two. Female hairstyle:

1. High bun and fake bun: The popular complex high bun is close to the Eastern Han Dynasty, but the bun style is more complex and diverse. Such as four big steamed buns, ring steamed buns, flat steamed buns, falling horse steamed buns, flying steamed buns, snake steamed buns, spiral steamed buns and double-ring Wang Xian steamed buns.

2. Pendulum: Close to Wei Jinxi's "Pendulum" in the Eastern Han Dynasty. Generally, a wisp of pendulum behind the bun is called "flying beard", or a wisp on each side is called "parting beard".

3. Walking hairpin: Different from the Han Dynasty, women in Wei and Jin Dynasties rarely wear banners, and most of them are decorated with gold leaves or gold and silver cymbals on the walking hairpin of flower trees, which are inserted in pairs on the front and sides of the bun.

4. Hair hangs behind the head: After the bun is tied, the remaining hair hangs behind the back, or tied up or tied into a flower knot.

Three. Men's wear:

1. Don't wear Hanfu and big sleeves.

Men in Wei and Jin dynasties took Dan medicine, and their whole body was hot and their skin was sensitive. Therefore, celebrities in Wei and Jin dynasties often wore wide coats or a strange dress similar to today's halter top. This kind of clothes is unique in this era, and the style is shown in the book map of Beiqi School.

2. Small crown and interface

The extreme aesthetics of men in Wei and Jin dynasties is embodied in the small crown and small bag corresponding to the praise belt. From the Han Dynasty stone reliefs, it is common to see a big crown covering the head, such as the Golden Fairy Crown. Wei Jin's male crown is only worn on the bun; In addition, scarves have been popular since the Eastern Han Dynasty, and were originally lined with crowns. At this time, it has become a costume that goes out without a crown. My body is also small, unlike the ears of the Eastern Han Dynasty. At this time, my ear-less interface is very popular.

3. Fold (xi2)

Perhaps influenced by the nomadic people in the north, coats and trousers became popular among men in the Central Plains in this era. Pants and pants are called each other. At this time, the pants are wide, because they are wide, they are tied around the knees, and the calves are still flared. These pants become bound pants.

4. Clogs

This is also a change of clothing culture for the hot and humid climate in the south, and the high-toothed clogs have gradually become the trend of celebrities.

5. Feminization trend

As the saying goes, "Gone with the world is a lot of evil", which is true. In the Southern Dynasties, the primitive culture of the gentry developed into a peculiar extreme state and moved towards a delicate and morbid state. For example, popular men smoke clothes and shave, apply chocolate powder, women's sleeves flutter, and clothes drag on the ground. Some people even travel with long curtains behind them. The "handsome man culture" is popular in the society, probably more than the handsome man now.