What about the clothing of ancient noble women?

Women’s clothing in the Song Dynasty was relatively complicated. This is also the fundamental nature of the development of clothing from ancient times to the present. At that time, many of the costumes were ingenious and varied, presenting a grand occasion of contention among a hundred schools of thought. Later, the government had to issue an order stipulating that the color of women's clothes should be subject to that of their husbands, and ordinary women were not allowed to wear colorful silk-woven clothes. However, people at that time did not adhere to this rule very much, and the fashion trend continued unabated. At that time, there were still people who preferred "strange clothes" and even adopted foreign styles. Later, the emperor decreed that anyone wearing Khitan clothes would be punished by beheading. However, the popularity of fashion at that time was unprecedented.

The casual clothes of ladies in the Song Dynasty were thin, slender, and long, which was different from previous periods. The color of the clothes also broke the convention of the Tang Dynasty, which was mainly red, purple, green, and blue. Various secondary colors including pink and purple, black and purple, green onion, silver gray, agarwood, etc. The color tone is elegant and quiet, and relatively high-end neutral gray tones are reasonably used. The clothing patterns have also been changed from the more regular Tang Dynasty patterns to sketchy branches and branches, making them appear more vivid, lively and natural.

Ordinary civilian women, especially working women or maidservants, still wear narrow-sleeved blouses. They are just thinner and longer than those in the late Tang and Five Dynasties, and the color is mainly white, with others also including light crimson, light green, etc. The culottes are also relatively thin and short, and the most common colors are blue and white.

In general, women’s clothing in the Song Dynasty, except for the large-sleeved shirts and wide skirts and trousers that were once popular in the Northern Song Dynasty, were narrow, thin, long and odd. They were the characteristics of women’s clothing in this period. Main features.

The shirt is the most common style of clothing. Most women's shirts in the Song Dynasty were decorated with embroidery. Most of them have round collars, crossed collars, straight collars, and double lapels. They have a slim waist, many hems, and a long opening. The clothing materials are generally made of light and soft materials such as Luo, gauze, damask, and silk.

The undershirt and the coat are similar styles of clothing. The undershirt is short in shape, usually reaches the waist, opens at the placket, and at the hem of the side seams. The sleeves are long and slender, and the body is relatively narrow. There are single jackets and compound jackets. Single jackets are similar to shirts, and compound jackets are similar to jackets. Usually the clothes of noble women are mainly purple, red and yellow, with embroidery and embroidery. Ordinary women mostly wear green, white or brown clothes, and older women also like to wear purple-red undershirts.

The coat is mostly a kind of winter coat with a lining or cotton lining. It has a double placket and an open hem at the side seams. It is also called a "swivel coat" and can replace a robe. In the Song Dynasty, there were restrictions on the wearing of robes. Except for married women, most other folk women were not allowed to wear them. Later, it was stipulated that the color of the robe of the married woman above the third rank should be purple, embroidered with cranes and zhicao, and below the third rank should be yellow without embroidery. You can choose according to everyone's preference.

Narrow-sleeved clothes were a popular casual wear among women in the Song Dynasty. The style is double-breasted, crossed collar, narrow sleeves, and knee-length. It is characterized by being very thin and narrow, even close-fitting. Because this style of clothing was novel and material-saving, it quickly became popular. Not only aristocratic women liked to wear it, but ordinary women also imitated it. This also shows that people in the Song Dynasty paid attention to economy and practicality. Except for buns, they tried to save clothing materials as much as possible, which not only facilitated movement but also exaggerated the beauty of women's curves.

Women's clothing in the Ming Dynasty is different from that of the previous generation, but the influence of Sheren and the Yuan Dynasty can still be seen in the early Ming Dynasty. The left lapel and narrow sleeves of the robe can still be seen. Generally, women wear narrow-sleeved shirts, backs, long skirts, etc. Women's skirts in the Ming Dynasty had many changes and were a popular dress. In the Ming Dynasty, aristocratic women's clothing colors were stipulated in true red, crow green and yellow, while ordinary women could only wear purple-green, peach red and light colors.

The back is one of the dresses worn by aristocratic women in the Ming Dynasty, also known as the "cloak". It is similar to the back and vest of the previous generation. It is usually worn in autumn and winter, and most women also wear it as a gift. The style is large sleeves and wide body. Le prostitutes can wear black backs.

Bijia was originally a clothing style of the Yuan Dynasty, but it was especially popular among women in the north. As a daily clothing, it has a double-breasted collar, coiled collar or crossed collar, sleeveless or short-sleeved, and is as long as the arms. From the waist to the knee, some are longer and less than a foot off the ground. Since the Yuan Dynasty, buttons were also used on the armor, which makes it easier, faster and more tightly tied to wear. It is a new change in clothing. . Bijia is usually worn with a long-sleeved shirt, a coat, and a skirt underneath, so the color matching of Bijia with shirts, coats, and skirts can show a sense of hierarchy. By the Qing Dynasty, except for old women at home who were afraid of the cold and wore cotton Bijia, Bijia was generally no longer worn.

Long coats and long skirts are casual clothes. The style of the long coat is coiled collar, crossed collar or double-breasted. The collar is fastened with metal buttons. The sleeves are narrow. The collar and hem have edges. Unlike the coats before the Ming Dynasty, they usually grow to below the knees, so they are called "long coats". "; The colors of clothing are mostly purple and green; the materials are generally Luo and Satin, and the patterns on the coats are similar to those of large-sleeved shirts, and are usually embroidered.

In the Ming Dynasty, due to the popularity of foot binding among women and the pursuit of "walking without exposing their feet", aristocratic women wore long skirts to cover up their little feet. The skirts were embroidered with entangled branch patterns, or there were one or two under the skirt. The two-inch position was embroidered with lace and used as a presser foot. Initially, six skirt widths were used, which was also an ancient etiquette followed. The so-called "skirt trailed the Xiangjiang River water in six skirts." By the end of the Ming Dynasty, the skirt width had become eight skirt widths, and the waist There are also many fine pleats on it, making it look like sparkling water when walking.

Ming Dynasty women also had a kind of underwear called "waist". It is a kind of clothing that is wrapped around a woman's chest, exposing her shoulders, arms and upper breasts.

It is different from the bellyband. It is made of wide gauze, wrapped horizontally around the chest, and some even have buttons. Add embroidery.

The most notable feature of women’s clothing in the Qing Dynasty was the role of buttons.

Buttons were originally mainly used on dresses. In the Qing Dynasty, buttons became an indispensable accessory on all kinds of clothes. Buttons were originally only decorated on the collar, so the ancient cross collar, plate collar, straight collar and other collars were changed into high collars. It turns out that the neck is always exposed, but with buttons, it can be hidden.

Han women in the Qing Dynasty generally wore narrow-sleeved coats, shirts, waistcoats, skirts, trousers, etc.

The cheongsam is a very popular robe among Manchu women, and later became one of the main clothing items for Han women. The cheongsam worn by the Manchus in the Qing Dynasty is very different from the clothing later called cheongsam, but the later cheongsam was developed based on the Manchu robe. The cheongsam was originally very wide with a tube-shaped waist, but later gradually became smaller. Round collar, right gusset, high collar or low collar. In the late Qing Dynasty, the high collar could reach about two and a half inches. Cheongsam can be divided into single, quilted, cotton and leather, all of which are distinguished according to seasonal changes. The color of the robe is generally light. When Manchu women wear cheongsam, most of them like to wear a waistcoat outside the cheongsam.

Most of the clothing of Han women in the Qing Dynasty followed the Ming Dynasty; they usually wore coats, shirts, and skirts. Later, they did not wear skirts and wore trousers instead.

The coats mostly have round collars, right gussets, large lapels, double breasts, pipa lapels, large sleeves, and embroidered borders. The materials for coats are mostly cotton, satin, and shirts are mostly made of yarn, Luo, silk, etc. There are also batik-woven floral fabrics. The colors are mostly azure, lake blue, pink, white, red, etc. In winter, mink, fox and other furs are also used. The edging is also extremely complex and exquisite, and there was a saying at the time of "eighteen inlays".

Generally, good skirts come in many styles. For example, the "white pleated skirt" of Suzhou women has as many as hundreds of skirts in the front, similar to the knee-covering "horse-faced skirt" with pleats on the left and right. It is also called "Yuehua skirt" because each pleat in the skirt is , full of five colors, so named like the bright moon halo shining brightly; there is also the "expanded ink skirt", which uses ink bombs on the skirt opening, elegant and unique, like an ink painting, rendering various changes; In addition, there are "phoenix tail skirt", "fish scale pleated skirt", "foreign printed skirt", "gold mud cluster butterfly skirt", "embroidered phoenix skirt", "full flower skirt", "piece of jade skirt", "jail railing" "skirt", "trimmed skirt", "dingdang skirt", etc. These skirts have their own characteristics, and they not only highlight the slender figure of women, but also show the gorgeous and rich decorative beauty.

Underage girls in the Qing Dynasty all wore pants. The trousers are high-waisted, close-crotch, and length to the feet. The shape is not as wide as men's trousers. When wearing it, tie the waist with a long belt and use the remaining part as decoration. Women's trousers are more colorful and have richer patterns than men's trousers, so you can choose them according to your preference. In addition, women's trouser cuffs have another unique feature, that is, they are decorated with various trims on the trouser legs. During the reign of Emperor Guangxu, several layers of hemming were required for the trouser cuffs. The first layer was the widest, and the second and third layers were narrower. It was time for Xuantong. The trouser legs are now narrower and have less hems than before.

Women's clothing from the Sui Dynasty to the early Tang Dynasty mostly wore narrow sleeves and shirts. Wear a long skirt, a belt around the waist, a long scarf over the shoulders, and high-toe shoes. The narrow sleeves reach to the wrist. The blouse was short only to the waist. In the murals of the Tang Dynasty, women in the Tang Dynasty wore narrow-sleeved blouses. Long and clad in silk. Long skirt. This kind of clothing with extremely short tops and long skirts can better show the rhythm of proportion and the beauty of the body, which shows the graceful grace of women in the Tang Dynasty.

In the Tang Dynasty, a kind of shirt with bare chest and big sleeves was also popular. The style of clothing often worn by aristocratic women when walking in the courtyard, playing with cauliflowers, butterflies, and playing with dogs is: exposing the upper part of the chest, big sleeves, cardigan, long skirt, silk draped over the shoulders, decorated with woven and embroidered inscriptions, and the skirt waist is as high as Above the breasts, it is tied with a large belt, which boldly exaggerates the woman's legs. It is a group worn by North Korean women now, with short top and long bottom. The fabric is usually leno fabric. The so-called "Qiluo fiber threads can be seen on the skin" is another major feature of women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty, that is, only light gauze covers the body. This kind of clothing reflects the cultural openness of the Tang Dynasty. Women in the Song Dynasty also wore gauze and blouses, but the way they wore them and the degree of transparency of the fabrics were not comparable to those in the Tang Dynasty. Women's skirts in the Sui and Tang Dynasties had waist-high waists and were half-length, revealing.

The skirt is floor-length and slim. From the murals of the Sui and Tang Dynasties, we can see the slim and beautiful images of women in the Sui and Tang Dynasties wearing shirts and long skirts. The colors of skirts range from crimson, purple, yellow, green and so on, which are the most popular. At that time, Concubine Yang Guifei of Tang Xianzong loved to wear a kind of yellow skirt. This kind of skirt was dyed with Yinjin vanilla. The color was like flowers, especially bright, not afraid of the sun, and could emit a fragrant fragrance. This kind of yellow skirt gradually became popular in the homes of Gong Binfei and the princes of benevolent official families. The poet Li Shangyin of the Tang Dynasty wrote a poem: "Bending the waist, many people dance in Yinjin skirts." It illustrates this point.

Spring and Autumn Period and Warring States Period: Yiyi: a sacrificial robe for the queen and the king to pay homage to the ancestor.

褕翟: For the queen, she will assist the king in offering sacrifices to the late father-in-law and Mrs. Hou Bo. It is a green garment with twelve chapters painted on it, and its feathers are also of five colors.

Que Zhai: For the queen, she helps the emperor to offer sacrifices to the minor gods and the son-in-law to offer sacrificial robes to the ancestral temple. It is a red garment with red Zhai patterns engraved on it.

Juyi: It is the dress for the queen to lead her married women to sacrifice to the silkworm god and tell mulberry. It is also the sacrificial dress for the wives of princes to assist their husbands in offering sacrifices to the ancestral temple.

Zhanyi: Also known as bare clothes, it is the dress worn by the queen to meet the king and guests at banquets. It is also the sacrificial dress worn by the wife of a high official to assist her husband in offering sacrifices to the ancestral temple.

Luyi: It is the regular attire worn by the queen when she lives in Yan, and it is also the sacrificial robe used by the wife of a scholar to serve as her husband's assistant.

Pure clothes: wedding clothes for the daughters of nobles.