How to shoot the total lunar eclipse with a card machine?

(is it detailed enough? I believe you will gain something. It's hard to type so many words! Quick reward points. Hehe)

When it comes to shooting the moon, many novices will complain, why is the moon I shot like a pie? No details at all? Indeed, it takes some skill to shoot the moon, and it will be made into a white cake if you are not careful.

The first thing to pay attention to when shooting the moon is exposure. If you use the average metering of the camera, most of them will be overexposed. This is because the overall light brightness is not enough, and the photometric system improves the exposure coefficient. In order to achieve accurate exposure, we can use the following methods:

The first is to set the correct aperture. You can't shoot the moon with the default maximum aperture (F2.8 or F2.0) of many cameras. Generally speaking, you should use an aperture of F5.6 or less.

The second is to use spot metering to measure the brightest part of the moon. In this way, the correct exposure coefficient can be obtained as much as possible.

The third is to adjust the EV value. When shooting the moon, you usually need to subtract EV, which should be 1 or 2. The exact number depends on your shooting. Shoot according to different aperture and EV values, play back immediately, and adjust according to the results before shooting. These are easy to realize in DC, which greatly improves the success rate of shooting.

Secondly, consider the shutter speed. If the shutter is set around F5.6, the shutter speed should generally be set at1125s or faster. In addition to preventing overexposure, there is another important reason for using high-speed shutter, that is, the moon, as a celestial body, is constantly moving. If the shutter speed is too slow, it is easy to paste. Nothing is absolute. Some people shoot the moon more clearly with a slower shutter speed. This is all related to the weather at that time and the equipment used. )

Finally, the choice of ISO sensitivity and zoom. When shooting the moon, we usually choose the lowest sensitivity, either ISO50 or ISO 100. Too high ISO will not only cause overexposure, but also make the picture rough.

Scaling is to choose the bigger the better. There is a simple reason. The bigger the zoom, the bigger the moon. However, it should be noted that the larger the zoom, the easier it is to burn due to hand shaking. So it's best to shoot the moon with a tripod. In order to shoot the moon better, many astronomy enthusiasts DIY many astronomical telescopes and install them on DC, and their PP is also very good. (But using high magnification zoom also has disadvantages, that is, the bigger the zoom dispersion, the more serious it is. Especially the modified cheap high-powered telescope. )

The above skills are aimed at all manual cameras, and those stupid cameras without shutter and aperture adjustment may have some difficulties if they want to shoot the moon. At this time, it is an effective remedy to improve the shutter speed by turning on the flash. At the same time, lowering the EV value can also improve the shutter speed to some extent.

Last but not least, photographing the moon usually takes place on a sunny night, and it is better to have no clouds in the sky. Under such high visibility, the moon will naturally be clearer. To tell the truth, the ordinary household DC we use can only be regarded as a play to shoot the moon. For friends who are keen on shooting celestial bodies, it may be very rewarding to search some special astronomy enthusiasts' websites on the Internet.