Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Photography and portraiture - Hebei 86-year-old "Qipao Grandma" became popular! It is natural to love beauty all your life. ...
Hebei 86-year-old "Qipao Grandma" became popular! It is natural to love beauty all your life. ...
That is a cheongsam with a red auspicious cloud pattern. At first glance, she felt that the way of cutting the waistline was familiar. We met again a few days later, and the long-lost intimacy was particularly strong. She tried to chat with the owner of the cheongsam, and talked about the tailor who made his own clothes at Guang 'an Street Market in Shijiazhuang. Unexpectedly, the "Master Jin" in her mouth turned out to be Kim's mother-in-law.
Like a treasure recovered, Ms. Gao couldn't control her tears a little. She took a big bunch of flowers to visit Kim in the shop. Aunt Jin has become grandma Jin with silver hair, but she is still busy in the cloakroom every day.
"Fashion Grandma" Kim
Jin is 86 years old. She has only one hobby in her life-making clothes. She persisted in this hobby for more than 80 years. The clothes made by her own hands have accompanied customers of different ages and generations through an important stage of life, and also influenced the lives of many girls like Ms. Gao with her own aesthetics.
It is natural to love beauty all your life.
Jin Yuxia grabbed the handrail of the stairs and climbed the steps carefully. The pace is slow, but the attitude is firm in refusing others' help.
She goes up and down the stairs several times a day. Located in Jianming North Road, Shijiazhuang City, this garment customization club is a factory-built structure. The spacious studio on the second floor is divided into different areas according to the technological process, and more than a dozen staff members are busy in their respective posts. This is a world of fabrics, patterns, sewing machines and irons. Kim returned to the water like a swimming fish.
Clothing designed by Jin
Master Liu, a staff member, is wrapping the cut model with a semi-finished embroidered shawl. Jin Shifu went over to discuss the cutting of shawl with her. It's a two-piece dress with a sleeveless cheongsam skirt and a traditional shawl in the form of cloud shoulders. Master Liu is one of the oldest employees in the store. For more than 20 years, he has been Jin's apprentice, responsible for making cheongsam.
Jin has a special preference for cheongsam. In her opinion, this kind of clothing is especially suitable for highlighting the temperament charm of oriental women. She is wearing a fragrant gauze cheongsam, and the calm patterns and colors seem to have been cut from ancient paintings. Comfort-oriented daily style does not emphasize the waist, but it is also a rare fit, with a sense of beauty that is not framed by age and figure.
Loose style does not mean that there is no design, but also three-dimensional tailoring. Jin Yuxia said that designers should, like sculptors, modify the shape of clothes little by little to adapt to different physical characteristics. In addition, there must be architect's thinking, artist's vision and musician's rhythm.
Jin Yuxia is strict with details.
When it comes to clothes, she can't help talking more.
She likes making clothes since she was a child. Jin is from Wanquan County, Zhangjiakou. She was born in a carpenter's family in 1935. Looking back on her childhood more than 80 years later, the memory of the old man has become a tangled line, and all kinds of people and things are mixed together. Finally, I only extracted a trivial fragment that influenced her life: since she can use scissors, she likes to cut small pieces of paper into the shape of clothes. Mom always complains humorously and angrily that you cut all the pieces of paper at home.
Jin, who loves beauty and romance, was admitted to Tianjin Normal University in his twenties-when he graduated, the name of the school was changed to "Hebei University". At that time, the popular concept in society was that "learning mathematics and physics well is not afraid to travel all over the world". Kim is very clever. She was the best at math in middle school, so she majored in physics in college.
The old man smiled unreservedly when he mentioned the past as a "master of physics". She said that after class every day, she can master 60% of her professional knowledge, and she doesn't need to spend too much time studying after class, so she has more time to develop her hobbies. In her spare time, she studies fine arts and often makes dresses for female students with the sewing machine in the department.
Cheongsam fabric
In 1950s, the "Blagi" in the Soviet Women's Pictorial supported the fashion dream of a generation of China girls. This kind of Russian dress with lapels, broken flowers and a waist knot was popular all over the country for a while and became a beautiful scenery in young China. Kim made "Blagi" for her classmates. There is no ready-made pattern to refer to, so we can only "reverse strategy" against pictorial or ready-made clothes, but the hobby of girlhood finally has an opportunity to show our skills.
Those colorful "Blagi" dotted with students' memories of youth can be said to be Jin's earliest attempt to set foot in fashion design.
Aunt Jin's Aesthetic Enlightenment
After graduating from Hebei University, Jin was assigned to Tianjin Tractor Factory for laboratory work. After that, she went to Fuping County, deep in Taihang Mountain, to support the construction of the "Small Third Line". The daily work is mainly to test the composition of metal materials, which is not heavy, but it is a bit boring for her.
Once, Jin heard that a clothing research institute under Shijiazhuang Second Light Industry Bureau was recruiting people, so he boldly tried it. "They asked me to make a dress. After I made it, they thought it was fashionable Just say you come. " In this way, Jin came to Shijiazhuang alone and officially turned to be a fashion designer. Later, the whole family moved to Shijiazhuang and left their feet.
Making clothes is Kim's only hobby.
Regardless of career or life, for Jin, who had reached middle age at that time, it was almost a change from scratch. Have you ever regretted giving up your familiar major like this? Jin said that in fact, the experience of college has brought you a broad vision. Even if you switch to other jobs, the way of thinking and vision cultivated during your study will enable you to make different achievements.
Kim's classmate's daughter still remembers two clothes Kim made for herself when she was a child. "I remember it was spliced with white and red polyester, but it was too complicated. It is hollowed out with various folds in Kobanawa. " She wore those two clothes from high school until she graduated from college. Because "they are so beautiful", she had no desire to buy new clothes in those years.
Zhang Dongmei likes Aunt Kim very much. After graduating from college, my mother was assigned to Shijiazhuang tractor parts factory. Kim lived in her house when she first came to Shijiazhuang, and she slept in a room at night. They often talk late. In my memory, my mother and Kim have different personalities, and the old sisters always quarrel for a while. Different from Jin's "literature and art", her mother is a simple and pragmatic figure, and her clothes are always gray and white, without much attention. Aunt Jin often tells her some knowledge of clothing collocation and encourages her to surpass the aesthetics of the previous generation.
Gold-designed cheongsam
"She will tell me that yellow can go with purple. Later, I tried it and the effect was very good. " Zhang Dongmei recalled that she once had a red coat. Aunt Jin said that there are some gray elements in the color of the coat, which can be matched with a pair of light gray pants. That light gray was only worn by adults at that time. She tried to make it and found that it matched the coat very well. Perhaps today, these are just some basic collocation laws, but they were a valuable aesthetic enlightenment at that time. Zhang Dongmei said that she is now in her fifties, and she thinks that her clothes are above average among her peers, which is all due to Aunt Jin.
Jin, who worked in the Fashion Research Institute at that time, may be regarded as the person who walked at the forefront of Shijiazhuang fashion. Jin recalled that at that time, the institute was responsible for the design of several garment factories, and also made some Chinese tunics, suits and cheongsam. Sometimes foreign guests make a special trip to customize cheongsam. She subscribes to many fashion magazines from Japan or other countries, so that she can understand the fashion trends.
30-year uninterrupted clothing with middle edge
The cheongsam recognized by Ms. Gao was made by Jin Weichen. "I think the waistline of her clothes is first-class in the country." After nearly 30 years, Ms. Gao still remembers Master Jin's design style.
Hand-painted cheongsam
When Ms. Gao met Kim, she was only eighteen or nineteen years old, which was the age when she loved beauty. She often fantasizes to fashion magazines that those beautiful clothes can be worn on herself one day. While wandering in the street, she came across Jin Shifu's clothing store.
Jin retired from the Fashion Research Institute in his fifties and opened a clothing store in the market of Guang 'an Street. In the 1980s, the self-employed were still new things. Her wife is the principal of a school in Shijiazhuang, and she didn't have the courage to come to her shop once. "I always do things my own way and don't care what others think." Jin, a professional designer, could make fashion, which was very attractive at that time. Teachers from nearby universities, workers from cotton mills and Chinese medicine practitioners all came to her to make clothes. Every afternoon, Jindu comes to the store to pick up his works, and there is always a long queue in front of the door.
At that time, tailors mostly asked customers to buy cloth in advance and then asked the tailor what style to make. Jin knows how to design and match, and often recommends suitable fabrics and clothes to customers according to their image temperament. "For example, if you choose one you like, and she thinks it doesn't fit your identity image, she will do it for you." A suitable dress is not only a dress, but also a kind of self-knowledge. It was under the guidance of Jin Shifu that Ms. Gao found her own style, and another detail impressed her deeply. At that time, she went to a tailor's shop, and the customers had to match the buttons, zippers and linings themselves. She would match the clothes made by Jin Shifu herself. In Kim's view, a dress is a whole, and these details are often the finishing touch.
Kim and her cheongsam.
Ms. Gao recalled that Kim cut her a silk dress that year. Exaggerated bubble sleeves and evening dress styles, which she had only seen in European operas before. The most brilliant thing is a big rose on the left shoulder of the skirt, which was sewn by Jin Shifu himself. "She integrated me with this dress and set off my whole spiritual temperament." Ms. Gao said that it was Jin Shifu who made her understand that clothes were not for people to adapt to, but for people to foil her.
She made clothes in Jin Shifu for six or seven years, and the last one was a wedding dress made by herself. Now it is the high memory of enterprise executives. She said that it was Jin Shifu's craftsmanship that ignited her passion for life and the pursuit of a better life. The clothes that Jin Shifu made for her changed the course of her life in a sense. Unfortunately, she gradually lost contact with Jin Shifu because the clothing store moved several times and communication was underdeveloped. Now coincidentally, this fate has started again. "It is said that the thread in the mother's hand, when Jin Shifu sewed so many clothes for me, she was like a mother in my heart."
Jin's clothing store later moved to Coal Machine Street and was named "Meiya". At that time, many Shijiazhuang people had heard of an "old lady in Coal Machine Street" who was good at making clothes. After the 1990s, the ready-to-wear market became more and more prosperous. People go to tailor shops mostly to customize clothes for important occasions. Jin Shifu's cheongsam has become the wedding dress of many brides in the village. "Some customers come to me to make cheongsam when they get married, and then come to me to make cheongsam when her children grow up and get married." Jin Yuxia said.
The 76-year-old Wang is also an old customer of Kim. When she was young, she worked in Mianer and asked Jin to make cheongsam. In a blink of an eye, Wang still loves fashion after retirement, and organized an amateur model team mainly for middle-aged and elderly people to perform catwalks all the year round. Most of the costumes of the model team are made by Kim. In her view, Jin Shifu understands the needs of middle-aged and elderly people, and her design is fashionable and advanced. Young people have the fashion of young people, and those cheongsam and fashions designed by Jin let middle-aged and elderly people confidently show their beauty on the runway.
It is a pleasure to do what you like.
"This place was originally open and the effect was not good. Later, it was sewn. " In the dressing room, Kim pointed to the pleats at the waist of a light-colored suit jacket. This is a fashion of catwalk, with exaggerated style. The left and right lapels of the coat are designed asymmetrically, and the longer lapels are decorated with embroidery similar to the color of the fabric. "Don't decorate a dress too much, a bright spot is enough."
Kim is a "detail control". Once any clothes and places are not handled properly, she can't sleep well when she goes back to sleep at night, thinking over and over what the problem is and how to correct it. Decades of strict requirements have tempered a doctor's keen eye. Now as long as someone passes by her, she can see what's wrong with the other person's clothes.
The staff in the store are preparing for a fashion show, and the design and production of more than 40 sets of fashion have to go through the golden gate. She is never satisfied with the materials of several sets of clothes, and wants to change them into lighter and more elegant fabrics. She went downstairs to find a color card brochure and carefully compared it for a long time. She closed the pamphlet and went upstairs again. "I'll talk to Pony again."
Kim and his apprentice.
The name of this pony is Ma Lina. Born in 1995, she is quiet and shy. She is Kim's youngest apprentice. She studied fashion design in college. After graduation, she studied printing and cutting here for a little over three years. Kim respects her opinion and often discusses things with her.
Many staff in the shop have been working for more than ten years, and most of them are people who love to wear clothes like Jin. Master Wang, who is sewing buttons on cheongsam, is an embroidery worker in the shop. She liked embroidery since she was a child, and she learned to embroider with a sewing machine when she grew up. She used to work in a kindergarten, and all the children's clothes were made by her own hands. After retirement, I heard that Kim wanted to find an embroidery worker here, so she volunteered to come to you. "Actually, I don't want to make money. I mainly want to find something I like to do. "
Qipao flower buckle
Jin Yuxia likes to stay with his disciples. She comes to the store every morning and spends several hours in the dressing room seven days a week. Kim was originally a simple person. She has no other hobbies except making clothes. She is nearly ninety years old and seems to have devoted all her attention to this hobby. As long as she faces the clothes, her thinking will become particularly clear and her memory will be much better. She can clearly remember every button and embroidery. She often jokes that she will always be 90 years old.
"Have you ever seen an 80-year-old woman still working every day, all day for a week?" Chen mentioned her mother-in-law, and her tone was full of admiration. "For us, this is called dedication, but for her, doing what she likes is not work. She thinks this is a kind of enjoyment. "
Source/Zhao Yan Metropolis Daily
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