Composition and Accessories of Yue Opera Clothing

Yue Opera pythons, first of all, no longer follow the traditional suitcase system of five-color pythons, and wear them in strict accordance with their stages and identities, so there are five colors and intermediate colors, but choose between them with reference to the custom of five-color hierarchy. Starting from "Playing Golden Branches", the colors and patterns of pythons are more concise and casual, and "Meng Lijun" uses a lot of mottled embroidered robes. Another method is to trace back to the source and refer to historical codes and official ranks to use colors. For example, in Changle Palace, the old emperor wears black.

Symbolic patterns such as fish, rice flour, sun, moon, religion, seaweed, mountains, stars, China insects and fire are all used. Yue opera sometimes changes the traditional python into a robe system (python+robe), called the python robe. It is very different from the traditional python in production. Python is no longer a full clip, but it is lined with hemp before and after, which makes it look stiff and stiff to show bureaucracy. The upper arm of the sleeve is lined with cloth and the lower arm with silk, which has the characteristics of chic and gentleness. The pendulums on both sides of the python have been changed into soft, semi-soft or non-pendulums, and the volume of the pendulums has been greatly reduced. Later, some of the front and back linings of pythons simply did not need hemp lining, but were replaced by cloth lining.

Python pursues the unity of collar, water armor and pattern on the basis of official clothing in Ming Dynasty. The patch is reduced to a diameter of four and a half inches or five inches, and the pattern of the patch is not limited by China birds and beasts and military beasts in official uniforms of past dynasties. Such as: neckline, water armor, with dark eight treasures, dark eight immortals or with various dragons. Tonics also use a unified pattern. They are covered with dragons and are rarely used. The patterns of Shuijia are full of water, still water, rivers and reefs, as well as unconstrained patterns, or deformed water patterns and moire patterns. The position and layout of the pattern are full, half full, or several layers of water armor, and the hem size of the embroidered robe is greatly reduced. In the early stage, the men's classes in Yue Opera used traditional leaning, while in the 1920s, Wang Yongchun used leaning and leaning flags, and the women's classes also used traditional leaning (hard leaning). After the reform, martial arts students rarely rely on flags and bellies, let alone flags to let primary school students perform martial arts. Rely on the body, feet and shoulders, no longer use net thorns, whiskers and belts, and generally do not use shoulders. Abdominal rest is no longer a traditional large plane, but a waist bag and a tiger headband. Embroidery is not embroidered with clothes, but with nail plates.

Yue Opera relies on satin crepe instead of traditional big satin (with bright satin as the garment surface), and velvet is mostly used for hand-binding, purse and belt. 1944 In the spring, Yuan Xuefen played Mulan in Mulan Joining the Army. She is wearing a uniform, the first piece is copper, and both the upper and lower pieces are used. Her nickname is peddler's burden. Later designs include fish scales, T-nails, herringbone nails, turtle back nails and so on. , gold embroidery, gold satin, silver satin cut and paste, or gold and silver wide-brimmed pattern sewing. Goggles can be made of cromet copper foam, gold or silver. Make it semi-solid through the swallowing port on the shoulder. Yue opera relies on moderate beauty. The skirts of Shaoxing Opera are mainly pleated skirts of Hua Dan. The earliest dress is a traditional long skirt with horse face in front and back, commonly known as horse face skirt. Later, the back horse face was removed and replaced with a single horse face skirt, which was often used in Lao Dan. Traditional fish-scale pleated skirts are often used as petticoats. Later, under the vision of Yuan Xuefen, the big hem was changed into a five-point wide pleated skirt. In the 1940s, influenced by the paintings of ladies in the late Qing Dynasty, colleagues in the student group designed ballet skirts. There are many flowers on this skirt, but its hypotenuse is near the calf and the front is covered with a handkerchief. The handkerchief is very long, reaching to the foot, and it is very simple. There are no flowers on it, just wrapped in Phnom Penh along the edge. This kind of clothing has been used many times in plays such as Mourning History of Liang Zhu, Mourning History of New Liang Zhu and the Goddess Chang'e flying to the moon.

Short skirts, commonly known as cigarette butts in jargon, have various patterns, such as pleating, non-pleating, net carving, embroidery, applique, oblique cutting and flat cutting. The pleats (sound pads) worn by students of Shaoxing Opera are not open-lapped, but have round neck, oblique collar and split collar, and the open-lapped ones are relatively narrow. This kind of clothes was improved (including double-breasted vest) in The West Chamber performed by the student group in the 1940s, and the white trouser legs were deliberately shortened. Practice proved that it was not good-looking, and later it was changed to xiaosheng and old students who wore close-fitting clothes and no longer showed their trouser legs. The clothes outside still extend to the foot, which can show the beauty of chic. This kind of couple often uses the same color when they appear in the play, which is equivalent to the meaning of popular couples' clothing. There are many styles of Yue Opera on the neckline, such as oblique collar, straight collar, lapel and wishful collar.

Small pleats and bouquets are mostly in the middle color, with four gentlemen's patterns (plum, orchid, bamboo and chrysanthemum) on one side, symbolizing the hobbies of ancient literati, as well as peony, magnolia and other patterns. The collar is getting narrower and narrower, about two inches, and it is developing in the direction of beauty. All the clothes of Yue Opera are dug in the pockets (pockets are cut into circles), so the clothes of Yue Opera are comfortable, smooth and comfortable. In the early stage of Yue Opera, the headdresses of male classes in performing traditional operas were borrowed from scholar hats or melon hats with jade in their daily lives, and some of them were taken off the heads of Bodhisattva statues when the dilapidated small temples were demolished. Rent costumes and helmets for Shao Opera and Peking Opera in the future. For example, the old horse in the 1920s, decorated by Bao Zheng, wore Kowloon mink; Wang Yongchun, a young student, plays Xue Pinggui and wears a general's helmet. After the women's group entered Shanghai, the main actors all had private costumes, and the costumes and helmets they wore were bought in Nanhengtai or Guangdong Road clothing store. Other actors wearing costumes in the hall are wearing rented costumes and helmets. These helmets are basically inherited from the hat box system of Beijing Opera or Kunqu Opera, such as Sweet Tears and butterfly lovers, which are all literary towels of Beijing Opera.

From the late 1930s to the early 1940s, some actors of women's Shaoxing literati drama competed with each other, which was reflected in the headdress of clothing, attracting audiences in novel ways, such as using more bubble beads and sequins in the headdress. At the same time, due to the reform of Yue Opera, some actors feel that wearing Peking Opera costumes and hats is no longer in line with the trend of reform, so no one will watch it any more. So, from different angles, they formally put forward the requirements for improving the helmet hat to the helmet makers. After participating in the reform of Yue Opera, the new literary and art workers think that the headdress of Yue Opera should be innovated on the basis of tradition, and some plays should wear a historical headdress style on the stage. Therefore, when the Snow Sound Troupe performed the West Chamber, it abandoned the Peking Opera Wensheng towel and designed a soft hat with wings (Korean art design). At that time, the helmet craftsman Fang (a small Suzhou native) and Jiang Chuanting, etc. According to the different reform requirements of actors, Xiao Sheng's flat crown and purple crown, Zhang Guo's helmet and Du Shuai's helmet, Hou Wang's helmet and flat crown were made dual-purpose. The obvious sign of the headdress of Yue Opera in this period is that the body and wings of the black and white hat are decorated with rhinestones, and there are also some emerald patterns. In 1950s and 1960s, there were professional fashion designers in the team of Yue Opera. They drew the costume design and helmet design at the same time. After consulting with the actors and obtaining the consent of the director, they can finalize the design scheme.

After decades of reform and changes, the headdress of Yue Opera has completely broken the shackles of the traditional hat box system. It absorbs the nutrition of ancient figure painting and constantly creates according to history and life customs. After the reform, the headdress of Yue Opera has made bold innovations in production, style, pattern, color matching and materials. The headdress of Yue Opera is made of the same materials as the reformed Yue Opera costume. It uses velvet, velvet, crepe satin or silk instead of soft satin with strong reflective performance. With the development of textile industry, georgette cashmere and glossy cashmere are also used as fabrics. Because the fabric has light absorption, the colors on the stage are relatively stable and true, and at the same time, it is more unified and coordinated with the clothing, gradually forming the characteristics of lightness, cleverness and diversity.

The headdress of Yue Opera also adopts traditional colors and takes into account the customs and habits of life. For example, in Dai Xiao, emperors and members of the royal family often use bright yellow and apricot yellow, red for weddings and funerals, and white for funerals. The color of the pattern is mainly decorated with green and other colors, emphasizing simplicity. The requirements for attaching silver plates and gold to helmets are the same as those for clothing. The embroidery of clothing should also be attached with gold, and the patterns on helmets should also be attached with silver. Inheriting life customs and the usage of traditional patterns, emperors and royals often use dragons, dragons and dragons; Phoenix peony is commonly used by harem concubines and princesses; Old people often use words such as "eight treasures" and "Fu Lushou"; Martial arts figures mostly use animal deformation patterns; Literati paintings mostly use flowers and plants, and also use decorative palindromes, moire patterns and geometric patterns, but the shape has changed and the decoration position is different. Traditional headdresses are often decorated with pompoms of different colors, but the headdresses of Yue Opera are rarely used, which is an important sign that the headdresses of Yue Opera are different from those of Jingkun. In the newly-edited historical drama, Yue Opera has improved the historical life such as entering the virtuous crown, Fangshan crown, crown, crown, crown of hair, crown of desire, crown of learning, crown of cloth and so on, and applied it to stage figures. Such as Qu Yuan, King of the Northern Land, Empress China, Han Palace Complaint, Changle Palace, Guangxu and Zhenfei. Traditional rock-jumping penguins are worn by queens, concubines and princesses, and women also wear them at weddings. In addition to traditional operas, Yue Opera also wears crests that are not usually worn in other operas. For example, the princess and queen in Golden Branch, the queen in Changle Palace and Meng Lijun in Meng Lijun all change the crested rockhopper into a forehead shape, or insert it, with its head exposed in a bun, and adopt the main phoenix with side phoenix inserted on both sides, or insert it on both sides with phoenix as the main side phoenix, and then put on headdresses such as Ruyi, Chanfeng and Buyao. During the men's class of Shaoxing Opera, the actors have been wearing rented boots and shoes. /kloc-in the 1920s, Ma Chaoshui played Bao Zheng and Wang Yongchun played Xue Pinggui, wearing high boots. When the first female class strutted to the stage in Shijiaao, there were no clothes, boots and shoes, so there were no high-heeled boots. Instead, a piece of wood (clogs used by farmers in rainy days) was nailed under the cloth shoes. After the female class entered Shanghai, they wore high boots to learn Peking Opera and Shao Opera, which were very big and old-fashioned, and most of them wore high boots with official uniforms. The boots and shoes worn by female students are not high, and they wear cloud shoes, flat shoes or shoes about one inch. To make up for his short stature, Xiao Dan padded his shoes by two or three inches. In the late 1930s, Gao Sheng performed Aunt Cai on the stage, and Xiao Dangui played Aunt Cai. She used stilts to increase her figure. 1942, the students' group played ghosts in the ancient temple, with the actors wearing flat shoes, the actors in "Wild Flowers" wearing flat-bottomed cloud shoes, the actors in "ChristianRandPhillips" wearing flat-bottomed boots, and Yuan Xuefen in the west wing wearing Zhang Junrui's flat-bottomed cloud shoes until 1944, which finished the funeral history of the couple. After liberation, most students wear three sets of high-altitude boots, usually about two or three inches, and individual actors have to add inner height. 1955, after the film "butterfly lovers" was filmed, the boots and shoes were reformed, and not only high boots were worn, but also patterns or patterns embroidered with moiré were put on the toe of the boots, and the colors were set to strong and harmonious three colors, so it was commonly known as three sets of high boots. The color of boots is similar to that of helmets and hats, and they often complement each other. Instead of reflective satin, it is mostly velvet or the same color as clothes.

Most of the boots and shoes of Shaoxing Opera are bought or customized from Nanhengtai. Equipped with full-time fashion designers, all designs are customized.