The Life and Contribution of christian dior and coco chanel

At the end of the 20th century, American Weekly selected 20 most influential artists in the past 100 years, among which coco chanel, known as the "first lady" and "queen" of fashion, ranked second! According to authoritative evaluation, she had no less influence on women's clothing in the 20th century than Edison, who invented the electric light. Without the birth of coco chanel, women in the 20th century would have stayed in the dark. In the words of spanish princess Biesco, this woman has "ruled longer than any minister without parliament" and she "has to make hundreds of decisions every year". All these will transcend national boundaries and have legal effect. Christian Dior, who is also a designer, exclaimed: "A woman has completely changed fashion just by relying on a black pullover and several pearl necklaces." In this ranking, even Picasso, the most revolutionary painter in the 20th century, barely ranks 12, but his words are the most agile: "coco chanel, the most sensitive woman in the world. "In the history of clothing, coco chanel's outstanding contribution to women's clothing in the 20th century is reflected in the following two aspects: 1. First of all, she changed the dress habits of women in history, liberated them from layers of hidden bundles and repetitive and cumbersome decorations, introduced straight lines, and replaced them with the modern spirit of simplicity, brightness, convenience and comfort. For aesthetic reasons, she advocates the concept of overall dress. She not only invented her own perfume, but also used cheap artificial gem to match her unusual clothes. Modern women's wardrobes may not have Chanel's brand, but it is absolutely impossible to have Chanel's creative forms: turtle neck, pleated skirts, sleeveless dresses, tight underwear, women's flannel tops and trousers, bell bottoms and three-piece professional suits. Both chain handbags and navy collars can be attributed to Chanel's name-without these, the emergence of modern women is almost unimaginable. 2. Chanel borrowed almost all the achievements of men's wear in his main invention "Inside the Casserole": she skillfully incorporated pants, tweed, riding clothes, cuffs and trousers corners, and even bow ties into women's wear, giving women the same freedom of movement as men. But it has not lost the sexiness and charm of women-on the contrary, through this neutral packaging, she has an unprecedented feeling for women, which is an open secret in our lives. Her design style is just the opposite of her life: ups and downs, ill-fated and legendary. She came from humble origins, was the illegitimate daughter of a farmer, grew up in an orphanage, and knew nothing about Paris before she was 25. With her petite and beautiful appearance, she threw herself into the arms of one upper-class man after another, who helped her achieve Chanel ... 1946: Christian Dior clothing company was established in Paris; Christian Dior Christian Dior's name is a combination of "God" and "gold" in French. For half a century, this name has been synonymous with gorgeous elegance and fashion. The brand CHRISTIANDIOR named after him symbolizes the highest spirit of French fashion culture.

On February 1947 and 12, the winter in Paris after World War II was particularly depressing and clear, and there were cold traces of war everywhere. At this time, Paris women wore clumsy, "box-shaped" flat-shouldered dresses and shoes, thinking of "elegance and wealth" in despair and helplessness.

It was also on this day that a fashion show was held in a grand and slightly tense atmosphere at No.30 Montaigne, Paris. The first model appeared, wearing a big eaves skirt with a circumference of 20 meters, a hat covering one eye obliquely, and a defiant expression, enchanting, willful but elegant. Followed by the second and third, are born shoulder-shaped, narrow waist and wide hips, typical image of Paris. All the people present were shocked by this magnificent scene for a long time. The ladies in short skirts and box coats were ecstatic and began to unconsciously pull up the hem of their skirts. This meeting only showed people's dreams and expectations of "peace" and "beauty" after the war. Carmel Snow Nuo, editor-in-chief of the famous American magazine Bazaar, walked up to a middle-aged man and said excitedly, "Dear Christine, this is a fashion revolution, and the clothes you designed are a' (Newlook'). So, overnight, the name of "christian dior" and his "new look" resounded through Paris and swept Europe and America. He awakened people's fashion ideals after the war, and at the same time made himself a "civilized representative of the new world" overnight.

And 1947, 12 February, this day is the day when Dior officially opened, and it is also the day when his wound was released for the first time. This year, Dior was forty-two years old. Dior's name Dior is a combination of "God" and "gold" in French. For half a century, this name has been synonymous with gorgeous elegance and fashion, and the brand Christian Dior named after him symbolizes the highest spirit of French fashion culture. Dior, a late bloomer, has always claimed that fate and coincidence made his fame and career. In fact, there is no sign that he will deal with fashion throughout his youth. He spends most of his time playing cards, astrology, gathering friends, observing people and gambling. Dior was born in Ugland190565438+1October 2 1. His family is a respectable and wealthy family, his uncle is a minister and his father is a successful fertilizer distributor. And his mother, Madeleine, is noble, gentle and elegant. Her beautiful image has been deeply imprinted in Dior's heart, which is his eternal tender complex and creative source. At the age of five, Dior loved art and showed his talent for painting, but his father wanted him to be a diplomat. In desperation, he obeyed the wishes of his family and entered the Paris University of Political Science, but there is no guarantee that he will not play truant. As a result, Dior began to enter the unrestrained and free life in Paris, contacting radical art circles and avant-garde art. At the age of 23, Dior failed to pass the school exam and threatened to leave. Finally, his father agreed to open a small gallery. During this carefree and indulgent period, Dior received a real art education, and made friends with painters (Christian Belal), composers (Sangert) and (Lacey) and writers (Maurice Sachs) who were not famous at that time. The new trend of thought of modern art has impacted young Dior's sensitive artistic feeling and enriched his artistic accumulation. 1930, Dior Poker, who believed in fate and astrology, inexplicably fell on a mirror on the wall at home and broke into pieces. In the darkest days brought by ominous and bad luck, he began to take control of his own destiny. This year, Dior's mother died suddenly, and his brother was seriously ill and declared bankrupt, so he had to move back to his hometown to live temporarily. His small gallery is even more unsustainable and closed down. At this time, Dior was stranded in Paris alone, with no income, no fixed address, down and out, seriously ill, and struggling with the help of his friends. At this time, Dior stayed at the designer's house, and under the influence and encouragement of Sandoz, he tried to draw some fashion illustrations. Soon, six of the paintings were adopted by a newspaper at a price of 20 francs each, which gave the unemployed Dior great confidence. From then on, he began to study fashion design and design patterns for newspapers, magazines and some enterprises. Dior is thirty years old at this time.

In the next few years, it is still difficult to make a living. First he worked as a small designer in Robert pickett, and then he was involved in the war of World War II. When Dior escaped the disaster, he also lost his job. It was not until 1942 that fate began to lead Dior to success. In this year, the same accidental opportunity made Dior enter the lion company, which is famous in the fashion world and has gathered many elites. After four years around Lelong, Dior really started fashion design and showed his talent.

Years of trial and failure made Dior mature, and he clearly realized his talent (Marcei Broussac), and his sincerity and talent were appreciated by Baussac. Baussac bought No.30 Montaigne Road and set up Dior Studio. Since then, Dior has started his own vigorous business.

Dior is a born designer. He has never learned the skills of cutting and sewing, but he has a keen sense of proportion and clearly knows the concept of cutting and where the stitching line should be. But Dior's career is inseparable from his three assistants, one is Ramona, a craftsman who can fully understand and perceive Dior's design ideas, the other is Margaret, a meticulous and perfect sewing worker, and the other is a beautiful and tasteful fashion designer. Since then, they have jointly created the world-famous Dior world, and the glorious day of 1947 February 12.

1947: Launched the first clothing series-1947 spring and summer clothing series, which shocked the global clothing industry with a "brand-new" style;

1948: Christian Dior perfume company was established;

1949: launch 1949- 1950 autumn and winter clothing series. Within 8 days, the company has received more than 1200 dress orders;

195 1 year: glove and stocking department was established;

1953: the clothing series of 1953- 1954 was launched, which shocked the British Isles with a "shocking" style, that is, the length of the skirt was shortened to 40 cm from the ground;

1954: Christian Dior opens the first store in London;

In Paris, the company has 65,438+0,000 employees, distributed in 28 workshops, and the production of haute couture clothes accounts for half of the French haute couture clothing exports at that time. Push 1954- 1955 autumn and winter clothes are refreshing;

1955: christian dior gave a lecture at the famous Sorbonne University, which attracted more than 4,000 college students. Yves Saint Laurent joined christian dior Company and became Mr. Dior's assistant.