Black card diy photo album illustration material-how to design DIY photo album?

When DIY black card landscape photography is a right-hand man, the most common problem is that under the sunlight, the contrast between up and down is too large. Facing the scene in Gao Fancha, in addition to gradually reducing the number of mirrors, black cards are also a good choice. What is a black card? In fact, to put it simply, it is a shooting technique of exposing photos in sections by manual methods. Because it can effectively balance the light and shade of the picture, it is a prop often used by landscape photographers.

The principle of black card

To put it bluntly, the principle of black card operation is that when shooting, the short exposed part (bright part) of the picture is blocked in front of the camera with black or dark opaque objects, so that the underexposed area (dark part) can get enough light first, and then the black card can be pulled out quickly after the exposure seconds are close to each other to complete the exposure balance. Where should I buy a black card? In fact, there is no need to ask for it, because as long as you look for opaque dark materials at home and cut them into the required size (depending on the size of the lens used), such as ordinary black cardboard, black adhesive or unused dark notebooks, they may become black cards, but it is recommended that plastic materials be the first choice to withstand the high consumption demand of outdoor shooting.

Fuji filmfinepixs2pro+nikkordxzoomnikkored12 ~12mm 24mm f4gf bottom. F16,6 seconds, ISO 100, m full manual mode, automatic white balance, JPEG, black card application, photography: GSMBOY.

Determination of darkness/brightness

Since it is segmented exposure, the most important thing is how to determine the exposure time of each part. I suggest using spot metering to make personal decisions. If the camera doesn't have spot metering function, the center key metering mode can be used instead. Taking CanonDSLR as an example, after deciding the composition, adjust the camera to M full manual mode (spot metering; ISO to the lowest), and measure the illumination area, and then adjust the shutter value until the metering bar in the observation window returns to the central position (according to the previous rule of thumb, it is recommended to add 1EV). After the completion, write down the shutter value at that time. As for the dark area metering process, I won't go into details here.

Photometric diagram

Originally, the metering data were F 16,110 seconds, but when we adjust the shutter speed to 2.5 seconds, the metering bar will return to the central position, which means that the bright area needs to be exposed for 2.5 seconds to get enough light (as does the control flow in the dark area). Of course, this is only the suggested control flow, and the photographer can calculate the EV value according to the previous shooting experience.

Operation black card

After the composition, metering and focusing actions are completed, adjust the lens to MF manual focusing mode and open the B shutter to use. Then, move the black card to the junction of light and dark (you can observe the position from the observation window or LiveView screen) and press the shutter. At this time, you can start shaking the black card, but don't shake it too much. How to master black card seconds? For example, if the measured data is 1 sec in the bright part and 4 seconds in the dark part, I can count down while shaking the black card. After counting down to 3 seconds, I can move the black card away and let the camera automatically close the shutter, so I have completed a segmented exposure photo of the black card.

Schematic diagram of black card control process

STEP 1 If the exposure time of the bright part (sky) is 1 second, the exposure time of the dark part is 4 seconds.

STEP2 at this time, just shake the black card at the sky and meditate for 3 seconds, and then take off the black card to get an exposure-balanced image.

Compared with STEP3, is the image effect very different?

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In addition, the purpose of shaking the black card is to make the black card sensitive and avoid leaving a residual image, not to shake it deliberately for handsome! In addition, the shutter time suitable for black cards is about 1/8 seconds or more. Therefore, if it is found that the shutter speed cannot be reached when the aperture is minimized during shooting, the nd decompressor or the gradual decompressor can be used to cooperate with the operation, which can effectively solve the above problems.

How to make a black card?

STEP 1 Preparation equipment includes black cardboard or dark opaque folder × 1, scissors × several (scissors with wave shearing function can be selected), art knife × 1 and ruler × 1.

STEP2 After cutting the material to the required size, trim the edge of the black card with wave scissors.

STEP3 can be cut into a traditional rectangle or oblique shape (oblique shape can meet the requirements of shaking cards in irregular environment).

How to avoid the black card afterimage?

In order to avoid leaving the black card afterimage on the screen, it is also the same reason that the black card is constantly shaken at the junction of light and dark besides cutting the bottom of the black card into sawtooth shape during production; Generally speaking, the black card twitches from bottom to top, and the speed is best to be slow first and then fast, so as to ensure the uniform and natural exposure of the dark part.

Comparison chart of black card before and after use

Before using the black card, the picture was obviously dark below the horizon. At this time, as long as the shutter time is lengthened and the black card is shaken against the sky, the purpose of exposure balance can be achieved.

Fujifilm finepixs2pro+nikonafs12 ~ 24mmf4geddx.f6.7, 17s, ISO 100, m full manual mode, automatic white balance, spot metering, photography: GSMBOY.

Fujifilm finepixs2pro+nikonafs12 ~ 24mmf4geddx.f/5.6,26s, ISO 100, m full manual mode, automatic white balance, spot metering, photography: GSMBOY.

Matching application of black card and gradient reducing mirror

When the camera aperture is minimized and the shutter speed is still found to be high, it can be used with a reducing mirror or a gradient reducing mirror to effectively extend the shutter closing time. In addition, because the best shooting period of twilight scene is very short, if you want to get the most shots in this short time, you can also use the gradient reducing lens mentioned above, which can reduce the contrast between light and dark parts and of course shorten the number of seconds to shake the black card. The most direct feedback is the increase in the number of photos, which can be used as a reference for readers.

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How to design diy photo album? 1, the selected paper material. When making the album cover, you should choose cardboard, the paper inside should be slightly Microsoft, and the color of the paper should be diversified to avoid a lot of circulation. You can refer to the photo album here.

2, common tools: scissors (lace scissors are better), corner stickers, markers. Selection: sticker, embossing machine, embossed paper, lace tape.

3. Print materials. Here, it's best to do puzzles in word or Meitu Xiu Xiu, ps and other puzzle software, and try to fill the typesetting materials with a4 paper, so that when printing, it's ok to print directly into a4 paper, without wasting at all.

4, an important step: printing, it is best to use carbon paper, just find a pen to follow the material, try to do it in one go, otherwise it is easy to put it in the wrong place.

5. Draw and fill the color. After drawing, there will be traces of carbon paper on the black card. Pick up the chalk and follow it. If you need to color, you can color different parts according to your personal preference.

What should I write on the first page of diy photo album black card? The first page of the diy album black card can have a summary photo, or it can be a photo that can lead to all the stories behind. If you don't have this photo, you can write a paragraph with a metal pen.