Life in Valencia

1895 65438+1October 2 1, Valencia was born in Jutaglia, Spain. Little is known about Valencia's childhood. It is said that his father is the captain, one is the captain of the Royal Spanish speedboat, and the other is the captain of a fishing boat. Unfortunately, Valencia's father died at the age of thirteen, and the family lost its former joy and fell into poverty. He and his mother moved to San Sebastian, where she was forced to make a living as a tailor. The rough life in the early years made Valencia card introverted. Even after he became famous, he didn't want to talk about his early years. He lives alone with his mother, who is a filial little Valenciaka. In order to relieve her fatigue, he also learned from her craft, and soon he became a skilled tailor. The tempering of his early life laid a solid foundation for his career. It is very accidental that he embarked on the fashion road. Because of his professional habits, he was accidentally attracted by the suit of the Spanish aristocrat Marquise Torres in the street. This is the famous brand "Dragoyle" women's dress from Paris. Marquis generously agreed to copy this famous dress and encouraged Valencia Card to study fashion design in England and France. Since then, Valenciaka's passion for fashion has been ignited and she has made great strides towards the fashion world.

19 16, with the help of Marquis, Valencia Card opened its first fashion shop in San Sebastian, named "Elsa". With the improvement of technology and reputation, his career is thriving. By 1928, he had opened a second "Elsa" boutique in Barcelona. 1932, "Elsa" once again entered the Spanish capital Madrid, which is the third fashion shop in Valencia. After more than ten years of hard work, he finally made Valencia a famous fashion designer in Spain. When the Spaniard praised him loudly, he was planning another plan: he was determined to try his hand in fashion capital of the world.

1937, Valencia left Spain under Franco's rule, first went to London, then moved to Paris, and opened her own fashion design studio at No.5 Avenue George V to compete for the top spot in French fashion. Although the initial reaction was different, Parisians had to sit up and take notice of this genius from Spain. People find that his women's dress design has a strong aristocratic style and drama, and has the touching charm of his compatriot painter Gefang velazquez's paintings.

Valenciaka has always been committed to women's clothing design. He often studies the dynamics of curves and structural changes like an architect, which makes his designs have the same three-dimensional effect as sculptures. He was never satisfied with his achievements, but was doubly fascinated by exploring new designs, even ignoring market trends and public opinion requirements and indulging in the pursuit of perfection. The introverted Valencia card likes to live alone. He doesn't like noise, photography, showing his salon, and has no intention of spending his energy on business. Only by constantly improving his own creation is his greatest pleasure. His creed is to pursue "the same quality as architecture". This earned him the reputation of "Picasso fashion" in Paris. When World War II broke out, he returned to Madrid. After the war, Valencia card returned to Paris to open a shop and began his journey to the peak of high fashion. Although his women's clothes were famous before the war, the real mature works were in the 1950s after the war. All kinds of high-end women's dresses designed by him have different styles and diverse shapes, which always leave a woman image showing noble temperament.

1947, after the publication of "New Style" by French designer Dior, Dior brought Parisian women's wear back to a warm and feminine world, which is exactly the style that Valenciaca explored all her life. At that time, Valenciaka was shocked by Dior's design and enthusiastically praised the beauty and fit of the "new look". In the early 1950s, Valenciaka introduced strapless evening dresses, which created charming and enchanting women with beautiful belts and curves, which was amazing. He changed a semi-tight coat into an uncertain soft coat. He designed high lapels and cropped sleeves. Whether it is the outline or the details of women's clothes, he can create amazing things by being meticulous. While Dior's "A-line" won a new sensation, Valenciaka's cocoon-shaped coat and ball skirt also won applause from Parisians. It seems that he used the direction opposite to Dior's styling line to express the elegance of the new women's dress. He called this design sleeping bag style, rather than using more elegant terms. Valenciaca also designed a beautiful evening dress with short front and long back according to the "flamingo" costume in Spanish gypsy song and dance. Valenciaka, who has a unique aesthetic quality, has mastered the modeling elements such as proportion, harmony and balance. In order to achieve amazing results, he also designed an extra-large or extra-large soft hat, which was integrated with his style design, and his mailbox hat became the symbol of Valencia design.

Women's wear designed by Valenciaka played an important role in Europe in 1950s and became one of the pillars of the world's high fashion industry. He is well-known at home and abroad and has created many miracles of high fashion. His quotations and design methods have influenced many fashion masters today. They are all proud to enter the Valencia design room. Nowadays, the famous designers Givenchy, Guhaige and Angelo are all disciples of Valencia. This period is the culmination of the most glorious history of Valenciaka's design career.

Since the 1960s, great changes have taken place in lifestyle and social ideology. With the rapid development of clothing fashion industry in the clothing industry, the high-end fashion industry, which is targeted at a few women, can no longer adapt to this social rhythm, let alone meet the needs of young women. A group of young fashion designers came into being, and their designs are more in line with this dynamic era. Due to the concept of "generation gap", Valenciaka refused to design "trendy" clothes. 1968, Valenciaka closed his design room. However, European dignitaries still spent a lot of money asking him to design clothes, so Valencia Card, who has retired, is still struggling to cope. Before his death, he designed wedding dresses for Franco's granddaughter and another prince. 1972, the fashion giant died in Valencia, Spain at the age of 77. Critics point out that Valencia's design has always been permeated with a strong "Spanish flavor". Although he lived in France for many years and was constantly influenced by French art, just as he claimed to be "the son of a powerful country", we can easily find the shadows of Goya and Subalang in his works, such as his preference for gloomy black and brown, which was directly absorbed from his fellow painters. Moreover, like Picasso and Miro, he often reveals the color of the bullring and the rhythm of "Fleming" in his artistic creation. He is the son of fashion art, he pursues beauty, and the image of pursuing beauty is a martyr. He will never let a dress leave the shop until he is satisfied with it. Regardless of the anger and complaints of clothing manufacturers, he always pursues perfection, regardless of time and cost. As Lessing said: "If anything that plastic arts can pursue is incompatible with beauty, it must give way to beauty;" If it is compatible with the United States, at least obey it. "

In the process of creating beauty, Valenciaka is a rare all-rounder among design masters. His paintings are vivid and beautiful; More importantly, he can be unconventional in structural methods, he can accurately use diagonal lines or rotating curves to make clothes have unique artistic charm, and his unique views on fabric properties make him perfect in the whole process from design to sample clothes. This is largely due to his cutting and sewing skills. He is also one of the few designers who has grown from a tailor to an artist. His keen artistic intuition and aesthetic taste are regarded as the absolute authority of that era. It is said that he often looks at his whole dress through the peephole and constantly modifies it until he is satisfied. At this point, he never gives in and is absolutely strict. Although his talent is admired by his peers, the taciturn Valenciaka is a difficult person to get along with, except Givenchy. If his fashion week is behind others, then he insists on changing the release time. But people don't care about his personality. He created the most beautiful clothes for people in this century.

The design of Valencia Card can be roughly divided into pre-war and post-war periods, and the post-war design is more mature. But his design style is consistent, always maintaining the characteristics of elegance, exquisiteness and femininity. He combines the artistic interests of Spain and France, and his design has reached the point of perfection. Although Valenciaka doesn't like to go with the flow, his style coincides with the fashion of the 1950s and is often mistaken for the successor of Dior style. In fact, Valenciaka is not only older than Dior, but also more famous than Dior. However, there is one thing: Valenciaka's women's dress design has no obvious change in styling line like Dior, and it also lacks distinctive features in the change of outer contour like Dior. So his wonderful curved shapes are often integrated into Dior's style of the times. However, it is recognized by the world fashion world that Valenciaka is one of the most important fashion masters in the 20th century and an unparalleled genius in the high fashion world initiated by Voss.