Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Photography and portraiture - Announce matthew williams, the new creative director of Givenchy.
Announce matthew williams, the new creative director of Givenchy.
Today is the first time they have inspected the upper body effect of the sample clothes, all of which are temporary fabrics. Williams and most core members of the team are taking notes. They need to further adjust their styles and guess how some details that need to be added, such as the felt lining at the collar, will affect the overall style and fit of a dress based on past experience. After adding a seemingly simple wrinkle to the neckline of an open skirt, Williams' design director felt dissatisfied. "It looks a bit like a tailor." Williams nodded in agreement. The product R&D manager will write down all the places that need to be adjusted, and then send the sample clothes back to Givenchy's internal studio on the corner for modification.
Williams is trying a model.
Givenchy's studio is like a think tank accumulated over the years. Since the time of hubert de givenchy, the founder of the brand, some tailors who make high-definition fashion have been working here. Williams was particularly impressed by the evening dresses when he visited the archives where the brand's classic works were stored. "For example, the decoration is nailed to the bottom of the skirt or woven inside. Its scale and proportion are amazing. " 1952, Givenchy, who was only 25 years old, founded his own brand of the same name. The clothes he designed are light and smart, elegant and fashionable, and the graphic decoration with great visual impact is very suitable for presentation on the big screen. Audrey Hepburn has always been the muse of Givenchy. Their cooperation began with the film Sabina directed by billy wilder in 1954. In this film, Givenchy designed all the costumes for Hepburn, which can be said to be a precedent for the tacit cooperation between Hollywood stars and Paris haute couture brands.
1988, givenchy sold the company to the newly born luxury goods group LVMH. Since then, bernard arnault, the president of the group, has hired three rising stars in the British design field to take charge of the brand, first john galliano, then alexander mcqueen and Julian MacDonald. But it was not until the arrival of Riccardo Tisci in 2005 that the brand finally found its own style orientation in the new era by virtue of Tisci's perceptual interpretation of baroque style. Soon, Givenchy established a new image with high-grade street clothes with hip-hop and rock elements, and also introduced some high-definition dresses with strong style and complicated workmanship. In 20 17, after Tisi moved to Burberry, Clare Waight Keller, who worked as creative director in Chloé, came to givenchy to give a more gentle and professional interpretation of the brand. Among her fans, the most striking one is Meghan Markle, who invited Keller to design her wedding dress before her wedding with Prince Harry in 20 18. However, only three years later, Keller left Givenchy. Now, with the help of Lota Volkova, a styling consultant who successfully brought the post-apocalyptic style to Vetements and Balenciaga, Williams is trying to inject some darker and more industrial elements into the brand, so as to bring it back to the era when Tessie was at the helm.
Williams' clothes come from his first brand Alyx.
"Matthew is the perfect designer to establish communication with a new generation of luxury consumers." Remo Ruffini, chief executive of Moncler, wrote in an email. At his invitation, 10 17 Alyx 9SM cooperated with Moncler Genius Project to launch the capsule series in February 20 19. "This is a magical combination of street style and exquisite style, creating a new cultural reference." Street clothes will continue to dominate the fashion field, he added: "Leisure sports will continue and will continue to influence the luxury world in the ivory tower."
Although Givenchy's men's and women's clothing series is still a few weeks away from the final release, it can be seen from the sample clothes that Williams used a lot of black this time, and the overall tailoring was clean and neat, with occasional yellow and black python patterns. You can feel the influence of Williams' favorite designers: Helmut Lang, alexander mcqueen, Rick Owens and, of course, Edith (Williams thinks that Edith's transformation of Givenchy is one of the most successful cases of rebranding in the past few decades).
In the accessories series, we saw heavy chains with the brand's classic 4G logo. These heavy chains are probably made of chrome alloy or brushed nickel, and some of them are inlaid with Swarovski crystals. They look like unique padlocks, some are made of transparent plexiglass, some are decorated with brighter crystals, and this decorative element will also appear on handbags, sweaters and belts. For today's fashion consumers, this kind of free and casual logo design may be more in line with their tastes, because many people are tired of the rigid brand logo, but still like to convey the unique symbols of the brand in some interesting ways. Williams knows this psychology very well: the metal buckle he designed in Alyx was a great success, inspired by the roller coaster in Six Flags Magic Mountain Theme Park, which is located in the mountains of Santa Clarita in northwest Los Angeles. Williams said that after about a year and a half, this element became completely popular-even Kim Jones used a lot of metal buckles in Dior men's wear debut in the spring of 20 19, from bags, belts to hats, almost everywhere.
For brands, the design stage of the new series is usually kept secret from the outside world. Although these semi-finished sample clothes can't fully show the final effect, we can still see the simple and neat tailoring from Williams' design, and those black women's shoes with curved heels like horns and chrome alloy embedded in the bottom can't fully show the final texture because they are made of sample leather. However, Williams chose to disclose his design process to us in a highly transparent way, although many details have not been finalized, and this series is his first show in this 68-year-old brand. CEO Renaud de delaisse The approachability of Williams, the company's president and CEO, is also an advantage. Delaisse Ken was appointed by the group in April 2020, a few months before Williams. "He is a team member," delaisse Ken said by phone. "He is very pragmatic and reliable."
The oversized chain will be the symbol of Williams' debut series.
From his official appointment to this afternoon in early September, Williams worked in Paris for less than 80 days. Previously, he lived in Milan to be closer to Italian manufacturer Alyx. For his own brand, Williams has decided to combine men's wear and women's wear more closely, and will continue to work hard to promote the use and development of sustainable fabrics such as recycled nylon and environmentally friendly leather, and reduce the use of toxic production technologies. "As the boss of this company, it took me six years to bring Alyx to this step." Williams said that he would continue to spend one day a week managing Alice's business.
"Givenchy's machine is much bigger and the approval process is longer." It is not easy to change, but it is important for delaisse Ken, because he is looking for someone who can "bring vitality to Givenchy". Renault is a pioneer with challenger thinking, so is Matthew. "
High heels angular women's shoes.
At present, de Lesquen and Williams have the same view on the future of the brand. The CEO was in charge of christian dior's fashion and perfume business in the United States. Now, he pays more attention to the importance of Asia in the future retail development. Givenchy has 102 boutiques, of which 1 1 opened in Chinese mainland. Compared with Europe and America, many countries in Asia have gradually recovered from the new epidemic and their consumption has also recovered. Givenchy will also launch an online sales platform for the China market. With long-term experience in operating international perfume brands in L 'Oré al Group, de Lesquen knows very well how to make a best-selling perfume. (LVMH Group also owns Givenchy's perfume series, which is rare among fashion brands. ) de Lesquen also hopes to bring a warmer in-store experience to customers. He will not leave the maintenance of customer relationship entirely to the creative team, but personally meet and communicate with the loyal customers of the brand. The brand's social media strategy is still being worked out, which is the key for any fashion company to restart. At present, Williams is still using the #Givenchyfamily label left by Keller during his tenure.
A coat in production.
De Lesquen analyzed the matter from a more commercial point of view. "The worst thing is that no one is involved." He said, "We will not try to please everyone. We need to take a firm stand. In my opinion, just as another medium-sized luxury brand, it has no advantage for Givenchy now. The most important thing is to get people involved. "
Delaisse Ken and Williams spend half a day meeting each week, and they communicate frequently on WhatsApp every day. Affected by the epidemic, many fashion brands can't hold live shows or press conferences as usual this season, and Givenchy is no exception, but they will launch this series of fashion manuals. This form of debut lightens Williams' pressure. Although he used to be Kanye West's styling consultant and creative director of Lady Gaga, he has never held such a high-profile position before. Williams is friendly and sincere, but he is not used to talking about his life and past to the public.
"I had breakfast, lunch and dinner here." Williams said when talking about his office. Here, he can see the roof of the eighth district of Paris, and the Eiffel Tower stands not far away. He didn't complain. "It has always been my dream to come here since 19 entered the fashion world." Williams' apartment on the left bank of the Seine is about to be renovated. Although his personal style is a bit like the villain in 007, he said that his taste in home design is mainly comfort, and it is best to make his three children like this apartment-these three children come from his previous two relationships. In Givenchy's children's clothing capsule series, Williams also added some personal preferences. "I hope they can all wear the cool clothes we made."
Williams joined Givenchy in an unusual way. Most fashion designers, especially the helm of classic brands under LVMH and Kerring Group, have attended professional fashion colleges and learned the basic knowledge of design. Only a few wizards, such as galliano and McQueen, have established their own brands from the beginning, and most designers need to experience in major brands before they can reach the top. In 20 18, Louis Vuitton directly appointed Virgil Abloh as the director of brand men's wear-he studied architecture before becoming the creative director of Kanye West and establishing his own street clothing brand-which was a milestone change for this luxury goods group.
Scarf with brand logo.
/kloc-At the age of 0/9, Williams was rejected by Parsons School of Design. After that, I began to work in the production department, responsible for executing other people's design works. "I will drive to downtown Los Angeles to choose fabrics, marks, sizes and cutting samples. This is how I learned to make clothes. " Facts have proved that this kind of training is very helpful to cultivate team spirit. "Everything I create is not to prove my self-worth as a designer, but to benefit the company as much as possible." Williams said.
Before Stefani Germanotta released her first album, Williams met her in a restaurant. Later, she officially debuted under the stage name Lady Gaga, which became an instant hit. In the key years from 2008 to 20 10, Williams became her first creative director, and designed some of the most exaggerated styles in her career, including the famous "dress" at the MTV Music Video Award in 20 10, inspired by a work created by artist Jana Sterbak in 1987. In addition, Williams also made a mechanical skirt with a swinging fan and wings for her, and a white lace tights (with a detonator inside, red dye flowed out during the performance, just like being shot) when she performed Paparazzi at the MTV Music Video Awards in 2009.
"Many of her poses are designed according to dances and props," Williams said. "But sometimes she will call me and tell me,' I just had a dream and flames came out of my chest. Can we make it a reality? Some clothes will take months to make. "
Williams' sense of drama also provides some interesting possibilities for the creation of high-definition fashion. He is eager for challenges and looks forward to further cooperation with the highly skilled Givenchy studio. "The works that can be created here are so …" He tried to calm himself down. "I'm so excited."
Alexandra Marshall wrote it.
Photography Marion Behring
Editor CHRIS WU
Translated by Sunny
Copyright 2020 Wall Street Journal. China All rights reserved.
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