Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Photography and portraiture - High-light photography calendering skills photography course

High-light photography calendering skills photography course

High-light photography calendering skills photography course

Calendering skills of strong light photography

For photographers, the most difficult scene lighting condition is in strong sunlight. Fortunately, there are several ways to overcome some ugly sunshine effects. We can put the position of the subject together with the position of the camera relative to the subject, and in many cases, we can also add an off-camera flash. Here are three kinds of flashes to teach you how to drown the sun:

First of all, from flash to soft light box-balance uneven light.

In order to get rid of the uneven light on the model below, I have to add so many flashlights to the brightest part of her body by the sun. My exposure setting is 1/250 seconds, f/1200 ISO. It can be seen from the light spot on her shoulder that the brightness of the photo is close to the acceptable exposure. If I use a larger aperture, a higher ISO or a slower shutter speed, I will lose the details of the part illuminated by the sun. So I used a flashlight with a soft box and supported it with a monopod.

The ambient light on the subject is uneven and unsightly. (1/250 seconds, f/ 13 and ISO200)

Adding a flash can make the light even.

Strongpoint was triggered by the main light on the top of my camera. The flash of the main light is suspended, so it will not affect the final exposure of the photo. Ideally, in order to eliminate light spots, uneven or too strong natural light, we should expose less than 3 files. Then it's all about flash exposure. The pose of the model helps to hide other uneven light. Although the shoulders are in the sun, the face is in the shadow. In other words, I set the aperture and ISO when the proportion of sunlight is still large.

Second, flash directly off the plane-strong light, ghost, strong contrast.

1/2 5 0 seconds, f/ 10, ISO500, wireless TTL flash+1 EV.

1/2 5 0 seconds, f/ 10, ISO500, wireless TTL flash+1 EV.

The wall standing on the construction site is very attractive in color. The light is strong and the shadows are heavy-so the contrast is strong. In order to make enough flashlights to illuminate the model Addriana, I asked my assistant to hold the flashlights. By flashing directly from the machine instead of diffusing through the soft box, you can get enough light to drown out the sunlight.

1/250 seconds, f/ 16 and ISO 100 direct manual flashing.

The above picture is also an example of matching the maximum output of the flash with the sun in the sky. Because you know the maximum power of the flash (for the focal length setting of the lens at that time), you have to shoot manually. Then you need to find the right distance between the flash and the model.

Third, high-power flash-offset the strong shadow of the sun.

Another option for shooting in strong light is to use a stronger flash.

The picture below uses the Baofutu AcuteB 600R flash, which I will use when I need a lot of electricity. It can output 600 watt-seconds of power-about four times that of a small flash. The lampshade is the portrait cover of Bao Futu. The portrait hood can provide a strong effect and is also an effective light adjustment device. It can concentrate light, which is very useful to offset the strong shadow of the sun. (Note: At first, I didn't like her hand "touching" the skydiving tower backstage. I also want to create a bigger gap between her feet and the ground. I don't like her feet touching the buildings in the background. But after using the flash, I found that most of the model exceeded the background elements, which could be consistent with the theme of superheroes. )

The portrait hood on the right side of the plane illuminates the model. The exposure was 1/250 seconds, f/ 1 1 and ISO 200-but she jumped too close to the portrait mask, so I adjusted the exposure to-1.5 EV when I was processing the later RAW pictures.

;