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Re-take the Road of Liang Ancient Architecture

Datong airport (station) hotel-special lecture on ancient buildings

1933 In the early autumn, Liang Sicheng and Lin set off from Xizhimen Station in Beijing and arrived at the ancient city of Datong after a night's drive.

It was a rainy and muddy morning. In this once prosperous Xijing, it is now full of depression. They finally found a place to stay, and every meal was just a big bowl of noodle soup.

Today, everyone arrived in Datong by high-speed rail or plane from all over the country. Stepping into a big city gives people the deepest impression that apart from the old cloth and new atmosphere, ruins waiting to be demolished can be seen everywhere in the old city, and residents have moved from the old city to new residential areas. Although the wave of urban construction is turbulent, fortunately, most of the historical sites that Liang Sicheng and Lin saw in those years are still intact today, which is enough to recall the track of the city for two thousand years.

We arrange for the driver to pick up the car or take it to Datong Gomez Hotel.

Please try to arrange transportation to Datong before 16. Because we had a lecture on ancient architecture that night.

Huayan Temple-Shanhua Temple-Liangsicheng Museum-Yungang Grottoes

Seventy years later, Datong built a memorial hall for Liang Sicheng and Lin outside the ancient city, which is undoubtedly the best memorial to these two architects who dedicated themselves to the protection of antiquities.

At that time, Yungang Grottoes were inaccessible, let alone tourists. According to Zhu Lin's memory, there is no hotel here, and the crops in the field are less than a foot high, which is a barren land. They really couldn't find a place to stay, and finally they found a farmer who promised to lend them a wing with no doors and windows but a roof and four walls.

Yingxian Hanging Temple-Yingxian Wooden Pagoda-Yingxian Jingtu Temple

Yungang's art fascinates these young people. They lived in this room without doors and windows for three days. During the day, they eat boiled potatoes and corn flour, and even pickles are valuable.

Yungang Grottoes are large-scale Buddhist grottoes excavated in Pingcheng (now Datong), the capital of the Northern Wei Dynasty, which embodies the artistic origin from Gandhara and Datura. At the same time, the grotto art in China began and was completed in this period. In the grottoes, they didn't want to leave for a long time, standing in front of the Buddha, and the morning sun just shone in, and they felt that they were in the Buddha country in an instant. The Buddha statue is vigorous and powerful, and the relief bodhisattva statue on the stone wall is swaying and dusty.

Dinner, Datong House Family Banquet (special dishes; Shanxi oily meat, steamed dumplings with flowers, fried cakes, etc. )

Taiyuan Jinci

Liang Sicheng and Lin visited Shanxi for the second time on August 1934. Jinci Temple is a scenic spot in the southern suburbs of Taiyuan. According to the usual experience, Liang Sicheng and Lin always stay away from "historical sites" because they are particularly vulnerable to local reconstruction and transformation. Local chronicles record many buildings built in the Tang and Song Dynasties. It was disappointing to find it all the way, but it was a "colorful" dry and grand renovation. However, on the bus from Taiyuan to Fenyang, they saw the silhouette of the Jinci Temple on the roadside, the big bucket arch and the far eaves. They took a look and thought that although Jinci was a "scenic spot", it was also a "historic site", so they decided to go to Jinci for a careful inspection on their way back to Taiyuan.

Today's Jinci shrine has not changed much compared with more than 70 years ago: ancient buildings still stand between ancient wooden streams and dance floors; The beautiful courtyard is open and magnificent, with deep twists and turns, "like a temple courtyard and a gorgeous palace"; Bai Zhou and Tang Huai are still prosperous. The Notre Dame Cathedral, which most makes the two gentlemen "reluctant", was built in the ninth year of Taiping Xingguo in the Northern Song Dynasty (984) and rebuilt in the first year of Chongning (1 102). Mr. Liang thinks that Notre Dame is "more Gu Zhuo and bolder in structure, appearance and posture than the method stipulated in" Building French Style ",which should be the essence of architecture in the Northern Song Dynasty in China. Although Liang Sicheng and Lin have never revisited Shanxi and Jinci since 1930s, Mr. Liang took a camera to take a picture of the beam under the porch of Notre Dame, but it was recorded in the architectural history of China together with this building.

After lunch, send it to the station. End our investigation this time.