Self-driving road book on the secret border between China and Russia (itinerary planning)

"I am an old acquaintance of rain and snow. I am ninety years old. Rain and snow make me old, and I make them old. "

In that era when my imagination was awakened by words, I fell in love with two places: Altay written by Li Juan and the right bank of Ergon River written by Chi Zijian. Compared with Li Juan's peace and kindness, Chi Zijian's writing style is more desolate and vigorous, which also casts a more magical and mysterious veil on Elgon in my heart.

In the autumn of 20 17, I went to Altay, and in the summer of 202 1 2002, I finally set foot on Ergon, a singularity where the real and magical worlds can be switched at will.

I can't invest in Shanhaiguan, but when I think of the Northeast, my mind is blurred: Daxing 'anling, Xiaoxing 'anling, Changbai Mountain, Heilongjiang, Songhua River, Wusuli River ... All these concepts are like the building blocks I piled up in the box of "Northeast", which have been put in disorder for several years, but they have almost never been opened and sorted out. I read Xiao Nuan's self-driving road book twice in front of the map, and finally sorted out some space arrangements.

The Ergon River, Heilongjiang River and Wusuli River string together the 4374-kilometer national boundary between China and Russia: Manzhouli, the westernmost intersection of China, Mongolia and Russia->; Hunchun is the easternmost intersection of China, Russian and North Korea.

Hulun Lake near Manzhouli is also the approximate dividing point between Ergon River and its upstream Krulun River. So the starting point of this cross-border self-driving is Manzhouli.

Part 1 Hulunbeier trade-off

Manzhouli belongs to Hulunbeier City, with a total area of 253,000 square kilometers (by the way, the land area of Britain is 244,000 square kilometers).

This is a common tour route map of Hulunbeier chartered car, which forms a south line and a north line around Hailar.

These two lines in the city are very mature. If you go to Moldaoga and go south to Hailar via Genhe, you don't have to worry about road conditions and models. It's not too late to make preparations when the raiders arrive in Hailar. Almost all roads in summer and autumn are cars, so it's hard to get lost. ...

Because grassland is not the focus of this trip, and I don't want to turn around in Hulunbeier, I want to cross the northernmost part and go south to Xiaoxing 'anling-so I gave up the southern line and started walking north along the border from Manzhouli.

However, it is still difficult to reach Mozigele, which has received rave reviews on the Internet (the winding and soul-stirring river in the picture really makes people have no resistance), so I took a short detour in Hailar, which proved completely unnecessary afterwards, because all the rivers along the way basically have such bends, and almost all of them are more spectacular than this. Of course, 1, if you want to take aerial photography (the spectacular rivers behind are basically on the border, aerial photography is not allowed), and there are two friends wandering in Hailar, you can come to Mozigele River to solve the problem.

Originally, I saw it on the Internet and arranged to stay in Enkh for two days, but I didn't know that Enkh was as commercialized as Shiwei until I arrived in Hailar, so I simply gave these two days to Heishantou and Moldau, and stayed in another place for almost one night, which was also comfortable. So Hulunbeier's itinerary was adjusted to the following circle:

If this branch has any suggestions, 1 "Don't covet the grassland around Hailar", the farther you go, the longer the grass, the more cattle and sheep, the more curved the river and the more beautiful the scenery; It's really selfish and idiotic to stand in the middle of the road and take pictures on the two-way two-lane card line with occasional traffic ... well, let's talk about what is not in most raiders, and it's a pity to miss it.

On the current tourist map above, the east of Hailar is almost blank, but I'll show you a map 100 years ago:

/kloc-in the 0/9th century, the whole of Europe was frantically building railways, and Russia, as a rising star, was certainly unwilling to lag behind. Coupled with the surging colonial tide, both Russia and Japan are eyeing China. So at the end of 19, Russia's ambitious plan is to build a large railway across Siberia to the east of the ice-free port Vladivostok! This railway is still the longest in the world. After arriving at Chita, in order not to make a detour, the Russians put forward a "proposal" to transit northeast China, and Cixi Lafayette agreed.

The purple part is the "Middle East Railway" that passes through China: after entering from Manzhouli, it passes through Hulunbeier, Qiqihar and Harbin, and all the way to Suifenhe. Perhaps no one would have thought at that time how important this railway line played in the history of China in the ups and downs of the next 50 years (the next part will talk about it). Yakeshi, Mianduhe, boketu, Zhalantun and the place names east of Hailar also flourished with this railway line for nearly 1 century, and disappeared from tourist maps in 265438+1920s.

These two maps are like two completely different layers covering Hulunbeier. Walking on the same land can give birth to two completely different emotions.

To tell the truth, it was only in Hailar that I realized that I planned to plan a "story line along the Middle East Railway" next time. Friends from Qiqihar to Hailar can also get off the expressway and visit these places along the way. Boketu, a small town that seems to have solidified in the 1980s, is most recommended.

The second part is the difficult choice of crossing Heilongjiang from Inner Mongolia.

Since Moldoga, the problem has arisen.

If you continue to explore the Ergon River northward, you can go to Flagstaff Village, a primitive village with only seven or eight families in legend. However, there are a series of procedures such as forest fire prevention certificate, and it is almost necessary to return to Mordoga by the same way: there is no no man's land, no road that navigation software can identify, and no cell phone signal. If you boldly find the way to Luoguhe Village in Heilongjiang Province, if you get lost and run out of oil, you can only resign yourself to fate.

It seems that Mo 'erdaoga walked through Heilongjiang, and Mangui was the only way to bypass it. Moreover, only near Mangui can we meet the most anticipated Ewenki deer hunting point. However, in Hulunbeier, few drivers are willing to go to Mangui, because it is really: too much, too much, too much! And I recently encountered: collapse, square, closure, road-the story of this road will be discussed in detail in the next article.

Therefore, the traditional chartered route will return to Genhe River from Moldoga, and then go all the way down to Hailar. Almost all the "beauty+reindeer" seen on the Internet are in Oluguya tourist scenic spot, 4 kilometers south of Genhe River. Before leaving, she discussed with steamed stuffed bun that she was interested in deer: but she would rather miss the hunting spot than go to the tourist attractions to see the captive reindeer; I am interested in people: there are no Ewenki people in the scenic spot, but the existing residents are scarcer than reindeer. Everyone has been stripped of their underwear online, and their genealogy and everyone's experience in these years can be drawn before they leave ... Instead of punching in and repeating those questions with great interest, it is better not to disturb their lives-the conclusion is that Qigan and Ewenki let the deer reserve time, but whether they go or not depends on fate, even if they don't go.

There are two options to go to Mangui from Moldoga: 1 The conventional route goes south to genhe city, and then goes north to Mangui via Jinhe and Alongshan; 2. Take a 70km dirt road from the forest farm and cross the river directly from Moldoga to Jinhe, which can save the time of bypassing the Root River. This dirt road can't be found in the navigation software, and it can only be identified by choosing the riding mode. I will talk about the detailed road conditions in the next road book.

The third part is the road of gold rush through forest farm.

After returning to Manchuria, go north and enter Heilongjiang Province. Go south in Mohe City, go to Beihong Village, the northernmost village, and then take G33 1 with Heilongjiang to Heihe City: The route itself is not controversial, but after reading some raiders, I began to worry about the problem of car refueling.

This road was once the "golden road" and "the road to victory" of the Qing Dynasty. 1887, Li Hongzhang ordered Li Jinyong to set up Mohe Mining Bureau. After 100 years of gold panning, it still contributed gold to the industrial plan of new China: CCTV official website has a documentary "Discovering Gold", which was founded in the 1980s.

At the end of Qing Dynasty, there were 33 post stations along the way from Morgan City (now Nenjiang River) to Xikouzi, but most of them were abandoned.

Therefore, there are few towns and villages along this road, and there are basically no regular gas stations all the way from North hong cun to Shibazhan. More than one travel note tells the embarrassing experience of finding villagers to buy oil with coke bottles on this road. The next one will talk about the reasonable refueling plan on this road in detail.

The places to stop are Shibazhan Township and Huma County. Of course, some people drive from Heihe to Mohe for more than ten hours a day. According to Sister Xiao Nuan's itinerary, we stopped at eighteen stops for one night.

Enter Xiaoxing 'anling from Humanan and Heibei River. Finally, I saw expressway in Heihe again, and finally I can see the big Russian cities across the river! Then we will take Heihe as the end of this Sino-Russian border adventure tour, leave the border, cross Xiaoxing 'anling from Heihe to Wudalianchi for a hot spring, and then return to Harbin, the starting point and end point of this trip. Save the border section from Heihe to Heixiazi Island and then to Hunchun for next time ~

18 days, 3692 kilometers, through wetlands, grasslands, forests, volcanoes, countless rivers. There is no cell phone signal in most places along the way, and I am not in a hurry. I spend a lot of free time observing the changes of clouds, the growth of vegetation, the flow of rivers, how houses are built, how animals feed and how people live.

Before leaving, I was familiar with this road so that I could draw a map in my mind, but it was only abstract points and lines; Looking at the map when I come back, it seems that all the points and lines are alive, and it seems that I want to break through the paper and jump out in a frame by frame. So I can't wait to write it down. This article is the overall itinerary planning, and each paragraph will have a road book, which will introduce the local customs, road conditions and human feelings in detail.