The Ancient Tea Horse Road: the mysterious business route across Yunnan, Sichuan and Tibet

Dai Jiandong

His understanding of the Tea-Horse Road originally came from the mysterious "horse gangs" in movies and TV dramas: "horse pot heads" with weird looks but bold temperaments; ragged clothes , a horse driver with purple skin and a hurry; a group of mules and horses carrying heavy loads all the way, climbing mountains and wading in the jungle; whipping a long whip, shouting a trumpet, and shouting again, leaving behind all the way The crisp sound of camel bells...

This time I went to Yunnan to collect the scenery, and I was lucky enough to have a real taste of the caravan. It took only three or four days to go from Meiquan "Carriage Village" to Wohu Mountain to Lashihai. The one-hour trip allowed those of us from the south of the Yangtze River to experience life on horseback, bumping along the rugged ancient jungle roads, and the journey was full of magical charm.

It is said that the Ancient Tea Horse Road has a vicissitudes of history and has accumulated historical precipitation for thousands of years. It is a culture developed step by step by the horse caravans in the vast jungle. At that time, the Ancient Tea Horse Road in the south, which was the lifeline of trade between Yunnan, Sichuan and Tibet, was similar to the Silk Road in the north that connected China and the West. The formation and prosperity of the Ancient Tea Horse Road opened up business travel routes between the Central Plains and the frontier fortresses, allowing the cultures of the Central Plains and the frontier fortresses to be interconnected.

Today, the caravans have disappeared, replaced by a network of convenient highways. Only the ancient Tea Horse Road still lies in the vast jungle, watching modern civilization encroaching on ancient culture all the time. And modern people with a superior life want to escape from the city and live in the wilderness jungle, letting their bodies be with thorns and bathing in the morning mist of nature.

While still in the car, the tour guide introduced the origin of the Tea Horse Road. Although there are many versions of the factors that formed it, the most credible one is the private business travel road formed by trade between the mainland and the Sichuan-Tibet frontier fortress. This point basically allows us to form a political consciousness.

The Ancient Tea Horse Road was originally a road of transcendence of the humanistic spirit. Every time the caravan embarks on a journey, it is an experience of life and death. The Ancient Tea Horse Road is extremely difficult and dangerous, but the magnificent natural landscapes along the way can inspire people's potential courage, strength and endurance, sublimate their souls, and thus highlight the true meaning and greatness of life.

Not only that, the widespread spread of Tibetan Buddhism on the Tea Horse Road has further promoted economic exchanges and cultural exchanges among the Naxi, Bai, Tibetan and other fraternal ethnic groups in northwestern Yunnan, and enhanced the ethnic unity and friendship.

The Kangzang area is an alpine area with an altitude of more than three to four thousand meters. Zanba, milk, butter, beef and mutton are the staple foods of Tibetans. In alpine areas, high-calorie fat needs to be consumed, but there are no vegetables, and tsampa is hot and dry. Excess fat is not easy to decompose in the human body. Tea can not only decompose fat but also prevent dryness and heat, so Tibetans have , created the plateau lifestyle habit of drinking butter tea.

However, tea is not produced in Tibetan areas. In the hinterland, civilian services and military campaigns require a large number of mules and horses, and demand exceeds supply. Tibetan areas and the Sichuan and Yunnan border areas are rich in fine horses. As a result, the complementary tea and horse trade, that is, the tea-horse trade market, came into being.

In this way, mules, furs, medicinal materials, etc. produced in Tibetan areas and Sichuan and Yunnan border areas, as well as tea, cloth, salt, daily utensils, etc. produced in Sichuan and Yunnan and the hinterland, are sold in the high mountains of the Hengduan Mountains. The deep valleys flowed from south to north and became increasingly prosperous with the development of social economy, forming an ancient tea horse road that continues to this day.

It was early spring when I went to Lijiang, and the morning sun was still a bit cool. We started from the ancient city of Lijiang and enjoyed the unique charm of the ancient border town along the way. As the car drove past the plateau highway, there were low tile-roofed houses and thatched sheds on both sides. The villagers' lives were still at a low-income level.

The tour guide said that the place we are going to is a relatively poor caravan village. When people there see tourists coming, they will receive them like VIPs. Because they know that the schools, factories, roads and all public welfare facilities built here are the blessings brought by mainland tourists. Without tourists, the economy here will become a waterless source.

As I approached the caravan village, there were people walking by with mules and horses in twos and threes on the roadside. I tried hard to find a natural habitat that was less filthy than the city and suitable for the soul. But everything here is already full of commercial atmosphere, and many primitive things have been materialized, which makes us feel very sorry.

So, the journey on the Tea Horse Road from Lijiang to Lashihai is just a fragment of our experience of life on horseback. Since you come to Lijiang to travel, of course you can’t miss Lashihai. When you come to Lashihai, of course you can’t miss horse riding. When riding on horseback, of course you can’t miss the Ancient Tea Horse Road.

In early spring, the weather in Lijiang turns from warm to cold. Although the breath of spring is getting stronger, the morning air is still slightly chilly. We arrived at Lashihai International Wetland Park, about ten kilometers away from the ancient city of Lijiang. This is a wetland containing alpine lakes. There is a caravan village in the park, which is a horse riding experience playground on the Tea Horse Trail.

As soon as we got off the bus, many villagers holding horses gathered in the square at the entrance of the village. When they saw us arriving, they crowded up and kept introducing how docile their horses were. After the tour guide and the racecourse manager negotiated the price, I picked a purple mule and horse. At first, I climbed onto the horse cautiously, grabbed the reins tightly, and under the leadership of the horse leader, tried to cross The ancient jungle trail in the "primitive forest".

Since this was my first time riding a horse, and the entire trip took four hours, it was quite challenging. The groom was a boy of sixteen or seventeen years old. He said that his horses were gentle, obedient, and would never stumble or act wildly, which made me feel confident. I imitated the ancient riders in the movies, holding the saddle tightly with both hands, stepping on the pedals hard, and quickly getting on the horse's back. As soon as the young groom whipped his whip, the mules and horses began to move forward with their hooves.

These Yunnan horses have been engaged in the tourism industry for a long time, and they no longer have the wild temperament of the past. Along the way, they walked slowly on the mountain road, and the horse hooves made a "kick, klop" sound on the stone steps. sound. Before setting off, everyone in our group was fully armed, equipped with cameras and mountaineering bags, and sat on horseback. I asked my companions to take a majestic close-up of me.

Seeing that we were all riding horses for the first time, the groom who led the horse kept explaining the basic points of riding, asking me to hold on to the horse rope, clamp the saddle, and sit firmly on the horse's back to prevent accidents.

We set off on horseback. In addition to telling us the essentials of horseback riding, the young horseman also continued to introduce many important matters in the development of the "Caravan Village" tourism project along the way. In this small mountain village on the southwest border, there are more than 100 people in the village, and every household makes a living by raising and leading horses.

There is a special caravan tourism company in the village, and all mules and horses are under the unified management of the caravan company. Early every morning, every family leads their horses to the village square to wait for the arrival of guests. The income from caravan tourism is also uniformly distributed by the company, and dividends are distributed according to the number of mules and horses per household at the end of the month. Some families have five horses and earn tens of thousands of yuan a month.

Since we were riding horses for the first time, we were so excited that we were a little bit overwhelmed. The daring ones among them also spurred their horses and whipped their horses, clamped their legs together, tightened the horse's reins, and made the mules and horses run. I am timid by nature, so I was very nervous when sitting on the saddle. I leaned as far back as possible to maintain balance on the horse.

The hand holding the reins is still a bit stiff, often pulling the horse's head high. The groom said to relax, just sit still and don't be nervous. But I still have to hold the saddle firmly with my hands, so that I can concentrate all my strength on the seat.

Entering the horse trail between the jungles, the road became rugged and bumpy. Sometimes you climbed up the steps, and sometimes you had twists and turns. The mules and horses also ran happily on the uneven dirt road. The dust was flying for a while, which made people feel sad. It feels a bit like a knight. The road became narrower and narrower, and the trees on both sides became more and more dense.

I think the caravan should have entered the virgin forest at this time. I looked up at my companions on horseback, swaying forward and back like me, which was ridiculous. As the road in the jungle became steeper and steeper, the mules and horses also changed from running to walking leisurely. The young groom looked after the three horses in front and behind him while introducing the scenery on the roadside. The majestic caravan that could only be seen in movies and TV series , is now truly displayed in front of us.

The ancient horse caravans created commercial activities between the border and the mainland based on the Yunnan, Sichuan and Tibet routes, and now they have brought the tourism and leisure industry to the local people. This change from civilization to culture is the basis of social development. change.

The groom said that with the gradual development of southwest tourism, more and more tourists are going to Yunnan to experience caravan life, and the number of mules and horses operating caravan entertainment has also increased. The locals called this place Wohu Mountain and built an Ancient Tea Horse Road according to the shape of the mountain. There were steep slopes and roundabouts along the way, which added a bit of thrill and curiosity to tourists who walked the Ancient Tea Horse Road again.

In addition to the rugged road, this man-made Tea Horse Road also has water channels built beside the road for the thirsty mules and horses to replenish water and for tourists to wash themselves. We sat on horseback and let the mules and horses sway along, thinking that the Tea Horse Road in ancient times would not be as leisurely and comfortable as it is today.

At that time, the caravans traveled on the trade road, and the road was full of dangers. Horse thieves, bandits, and strongmen frequently appeared. It should be full of dangers. During his career in the caravan, he lived a life of licking blood on the tip of a knife. Ma Guotou should also have the demeanor of a general capable of commanding the three armies.

Back then, this area had high mountains and dense forests, a hot climate and was filled with smog. There are cliffs and deep ravines on the road, hungry tigers and ferocious beasts in the mountains, poisonous snakes and scorpions in the river, and bandits and horse thieves along the way, so there is a saying of "traveling to the barbarian way out of poverty". The natural conditions of high mountains and sharp waters in southwest China make sailing on the water a pure dream. The obstacles along the way and the complex human factors are daunting.

However, there is such a group of brave people who unite as one, fight with wits and courage, and use the short but endurance mountain horses produced in the southwest to carry goods, walk thousands of miles, and achieve great success. They form caravans, cross mountains and ridges, climb mountains and ford rivers, and exist as a unique mode of transportation in the southwest region. Later, it evolved into the main means of transportation on the Tea Horse Road, solving the problem of people's daily necessities, promoting unification, and opening a door for Sino-foreign trade and exchanges.

At this time, the mules and horses were walking slowly on the mountain road, limping and limping. With the blue sky and white clouds above our heads, we looked up at the mountains in the distance and looked around at the lush trees covering the hillside.

A leisurely life gives people a sense of tranquility. The climate in the southwest border is cooler than that in the south. There are no wild flowers blooming in the mountains and bushes, but the tender branches and buds have already poked out their green heads, feeling the caress of the spring breeze, smiling and gesturing to the horse teams passing by to comfort them during the journey. Enter the hard-working caravan.

Being in the jungle, we seem to have returned to the era of caravans, crossing the mountains and ridges, following the horse hoof prints of our ancestors, and walking further forward step by step.

That's the horse's hooves moving forward slowly. We were riding on horseback, and it was bumpy and shaky.

After bypassing a mountain ridge, the horses came to the horse resting ground, which was an open space deep in a dense forest. Groups of mules and horses had been tied to tree stumps on the roadside. Polished until shiny. The horses may be used to resting here. When they walked into this primitive Naxi horse resting ground, the horses after a long journey were already a little exhausted. So, the leading "Ma Guotou" shouted: "Hey, it's dusted!" Everyone dismounted and rested together, and the mules and horses were tied to the tree stumps by the grooms.

At this time, the dense woods blocked the sky and the sun. We were surrounded by century-old trees. The huge trunks and lush branches and leaves brought us a bit of coolness. The sweat from the violent jolt just now made our shirts wet. It got wet, and now it sticks to my body, making it a little cold.

Naxi aunties selling soybeans, peanuts and drinks on the roadside saw tourists resting, so they surrounded us and sold us horse feed. A small bag of bean ingredients costs ten yuan to give people a fresh feeling. The mules and horses were traveling along the mountain road. It is common sense for us to feed soybeans. Besides, feeding horses is also a kind of fun. Seeing mules and horses licking soybeans from the palm of our hands makes us feel pity in our hearts.

The old woman who sells horse feed is already over fifty years old. Time has carved deep ravines on her face, and the ultraviolet rays and abundant sunshine from the plateau have baked her skin into a shiny glow. Shine. It is already difficult for a woman of her age to find a job, but the development of the caravan tourism industry has allowed her to find her place again.

After trekking for several hours, we felt extremely relaxed when we rested in this small inn. At this time, a breeze came from the valley, which was cool and refreshing, making our clothes wet with sweat feel even colder and biting. Looking up at the sky on the plateau, white clouds float in the blue sky, the sun is very bright, and my soul feels purified. On the ancient tea horse road on the plateau, the original customs preserved, as well as the ancient and outdated villages, and the simple and honest folk customs are all moving.

After resting for a while, we continued to move forward on horseback. The ancient road extended along the winding mountain road. The woods on both sides of the road stretch as far as the eye can see. After passing the horse resting field, the terrain gradually becomes gentle, and the mountain roads are no longer rugged. The flat ancient road makes people feel leisurely and contented, and the feeling of trusting the horse's rein adds to the leisurely feeling. After nearly two hours of walking, we arrived at a plateau wetland.

There are large green pastures here, which look particularly fresh and beautiful against the blue sky. This is the source of Lashihai - Meiquan.

Meiquan, formerly known as "Mobei", is the most beautiful and rich land of fish and rice in Lashi City, and it is also a virgin plateau water town recently introduced to the world. The nine-day waterfall and towering ancient trees here can be described as the "paradise" described by Mr. Wu Liu. This was the outdoor amusement park of Mufu in the past and is a unique Feng Shui treasure land in Lijiang.

The source of Lashihai belongs to the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain water system and is the blood source of the Naxi nation. The mirror-like lake surface reflects the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, and water birds soar among the blue sky and white clouds, creating a unique atmosphere of the plateau wetlands.

The seaside of Lashi has beautiful mountains and green waters, especially beautiful springs. The beautiful spring originates from the intersection of Wohu Mountain and Beidou Mountain. The spring water gushing from the rugged rocks forms a sister pool. The water is as green as flawless emerald and so clear that you can see the bottom of the pool. The forest here is dense, the flowers and plants are prosperous, and it is quiet and beautiful. This was the first time we saw a plateau lake. Above the lake, we saw white clouds floating on the blue sky. Under the continuous green mountains was clear green water. The vast lake was covered with water plants, and a few big gray geese floated leisurely on the water. , what a peaceful plateau ink painting.

According to the original tourist route, we dismounted here and took a boat trip around Lashihai. This plateau lake gives people a clean, translucent and beautiful feeling. We sat on a small boat and walked along a narrow waterway and entered the sea area of ????Lashi. We walked all the way from Wohu Mountain to Meiquan. The beautiful scenery along the way was unforgettable, especially the feeling on horseback. It was really an experience I had never had before in this life.

On the Lashihai Lake, tourists come and go incessantly. Every tourist’s face is filled with a happy smile. They also wave to express their joy to us. Some people want to do all this. The beautiful scenery is engraved in my mind, and I keep holding the camera to record every moment.

On the calm lake, with a gentle breeze, a fishing boat is moored beside the waterway plank road. The light smoke carries the smell of fish. This is the Naxi people grilling fish on the fishing boat. The strong smell of fish made us have to stop by the fishing boat. The small grilled fish, which costs five yuan a piece, is browned on the surface and the meat is fresh and tender. This is a newly caught wild fish from the sea in Lashi. Freshly caught, roasted and sold, it is both fresh and affordable. Everyone in our boat rushed to taste it, which made the fisherman very busy.

Rafting on the Lashi Lake, the clear water allows you to see the aquatic plants on the bottom of the water. At this moment, the Lashi Sea is green, like a pearl among the mountains that suddenly fell into a flat depression.

The midday sun shines on the sea, the waves are sparkling, and it is especially beautiful against the blue sky and white clouds.

I think that the Ancient Tea Horse Road, which is gradually disappearing, should be a journey full of dangers, but now in people's eyes, it has become so comfortable and peaceful. The calm lake water seems to be able to wash away your fatigue. This is a feeling that the merchants on the Tea Horse Road would never have imagined.

After leaving Lashihai, the tour guide took us to taste the unique "mabang cuisine", cooked beef, delicious wild mushrooms, and wild vegetables picked from the mountains, plus Taking a sip of the spicy liquor brings you back to the caravan era.

Returning to the collapsed hotel from the Yunnan-Tibet Tea Horse Road, we seemed to have entered a time and space tunnel. The long sound of horse hooves and the crisp sound of camel bells still echoed in our ears, making people feel the weight of life. The Ancient Tea Horse Road created by the Yunnan, Sichuan and Tibetan merchants represents the long-standing culture of the Central Plains and the vicissitudes of history.

The horseshoes, waterfalls, arch bridges and thatched cottages on the Tea Horse Ancient Road are dotted here and there, vaguely witnessing the prosperity of this business journey in the past. This folk road carries the fusion of the living customs of the Han, Tibetan and Bai people, and has inherited thousands of years of cultural exchanges such as tea, animal husbandry, textiles, and farming. It has led to the prosperity of commercial ports, caravans, and cities, as well as the prosperity of the economy. ...?

The Ancient Tea Horse Road, this mysterious business travel route with the most spectacular natural scenery and the deepest cultural heritage in the world, contains endless cultural heritage that future generations will praise.