Jianchuan, Yunnan, a well-preserved ancient city due to economic backwardness, is seriously underestimated.

Located in the north of Dali Prefecture, Yunnan Province, between Dali and Lijiang, it was founded in the Yuan Dynasty and has a history of more than 600 years. There are Jianchuan Ancient Town, Shaxi Ancient Town, Jianhu Lake, Lion Mountain and other places of interest in the territory, and there are many celebrities, such as Zhao Fan, He, Yang and so on. From Yongle in the Ming Dynasty to Guangxu in the Qing Dynasty, 558 people were admitted, which is a veritable country of literature.

Jianchuan ancient city, where the county seat is located, is a beautiful and low-key ancient city, which is relatively well preserved because of its backward economy. Up to now, there are more than 40 buildings in Ming dynasty and 46 buildings in Qing dynasty/kloc-0, accounting for more than 90% of the total number of houses in the city. This is an ancient city that is seriously underestimated. Unfortunately, 1952 demolished the ancient city wall and firewood building.

This is my travel notes in Jianchuan, Yunnan in April, 20 19.

Day 1: Tonghai to Jianchuan and stay in Jianchuan Ancient City.

After a tour of Tonghai and considering where to go next, a friend suggested me to go to Jianchuan, saying that it was suitable for me, with few quiet and low-key tourists, profound historical background and simple folk customs, and recommended me to stay in an inn.

I checked the traffic conditions on the Internet. You can take the train from Tonghai to Lijiang, and then take the shuttle bus to Jianchuan. Arriving at Tonghai Railway Station one hour in advance, I saw the gate closed and a group of women dancing in front of the square. I looked at the railway station curiously. It's small. There are many cars parked in front of it. Children are running around and people are walking. It seems that this place is not only a railway station, but also a place for people to relax nearby.

As night fell, the lights came on, only 10 minutes before the train started, and the gate finally opened, so I didn't have time to watch the train station collect tickets, check security and get on the bus. Fall asleep with a bang, wake up and hear the radio say Lijiang, the next stop.

Take a bus from Lijiang Railway Station to Lijiang Passenger Station, buy a ticket to Jianchuan (26 yuan, more than 70 kilometers), eat a bowl of rice noodles nearby, and then take the shuttle bus. You are free to choose your seat, so you can sit in the co-pilot seat with a very good view. Compared with Honghe Prefecture, Lijiang has a higher altitude, and the blue sky and white clouds are particularly transparent, which makes people feel particularly comfortable.

After more than an hour, I arrived at Jianchuan County Bus Terminal, which is quieter than Lijiang. According to the navigation, we can find Lu Heng Mansion, and the stone roads in ancient cities, such as Dali Ancient City and Old Town of Lijiang, are a little difficult to pull suitcases. When I stopped to ask for directions, a woman next to me asked me, are you a mango? It turns out that she is the boss of the building, Sister Yang.

Sister Yang said that the building was built in the Republic of China and has a history of more than 100 years. It used to be a celebrity's house Now they are under the plate inn, and the room pattern has not changed much. The furniture also matches the style of the Republic of China and looks simple and heavy. Put down your luggage and have tea with Sister Yang downstairs. She said she was from Dali, and her boss, Yang Ge, was a native of Jianchuan. Most of the inns and homestays here are locals, because there are not many tourists in Jianchuan at present, and most of them are just passing through Shaxi Ancient Town.

? At first glance, this inn seems ordinary. After careful inspection, I found that everything here is exquisite. The entrance is a bully, and there are many stone ornaments in the yard, all of which are old objects collected by Yang Ge in the Ming and Qing Dynasties.

At noon, Yang Jie and I had lunch at the inn, all of which were home-cooked and had a particularly fragrant taste. There is also an aunt who helps clean and cook in the inn. She said that all these dishes were brought by her family and the meat was preserved by herself. Just smelling this smell makes people drool.

In the afternoon, I went out alone, stepping on the stone road, listening to the sound of water, looking at the white walls and blue tiles under the blue sky and white clouds, and the ancient houses on both sides lined up, sighing that the ancient city should be like this. I didn't meet many tourists, most of them were locals, but I also met a few foreigners, all of whom asked the tour guide to explain. Compared with many domestic tourists, they seem to be more interested in the historical buildings in China.

Two things left a deep impression on me. First, almost every ancient residence is pasted with handwritten couplets, which are said to have been written by myself or by Mr. Wang, and there is a book fragrance coming from the door. It is said that people in Jianchuan admire reading very much, and maybe anyone who stands here can write well.

Second, every household has a yard full of flowers and plants. Bai nationality (Jianchuan is a place where Bai people live in compact communities) is one of the most favorite ethnic groups I have ever seen to grow flowers. No matter how hard life is, they can always see a little bit of beauty.

After supper, I went out for a walk. This ancient city is quieter and more historic than during the day. Sitting in front of the square, looking at the famous literary country in front of me seems to have crossed hundreds of years ago. Guobao Temple is quite lively. There is a century-old primrose in the yard, which is blooming brilliantly and emitting a faint fragrance, which is particularly refreshing in the silent night.

The next day: visit Jianchuan ancient city and stay in the ancient city.

Go to the small shop recommended by the boss for breakfast in the morning. I saw a table full of foreigners. I watched their breakfast curiously. Everyone is enjoying a bowl of thin bean powder. I asked permission to take pictures. When I passed their table after eating, I saw that everyone had finished all their bowls. Oh, these foreigners are very adaptable.

Today is the market day of Jianchuan ancient city. The road is very lively and full of stalls. Everything from vegetables to clothes to shoes to medicines. Many people carry baskets to buy things.

I saw a stall selling shoes, which was very special, like ancient sandals. I wanted to buy a pair at first, but later I thought I would go abroad with a burden. It didn't seem to fit me well, so I gave up.

In the afternoon, I was still wandering in the ancient city. There are few tourists today, and it is getting quieter and quieter. Occasionally, I will see one or two old people sitting in front of the house chatting. If there are really quiet years in this world, I wonder if this counts?

To be continued ~

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