How many other Canon 5d3 kit lens 24-105 lens friends use? Thanks!

The 24-105 is basically a travel lens and is sufficient for general use

The choice of subsequent lens depends on the requirements

The main features of the 24-105 There are two disadvantages:

First, the aperture is not large enough. This is of course not large enough because of the large aperture fixed focus ratio, and the large three-dimensional ratio of the 2.8 aperture. In fact, the zoom is smaller on the 5d3 with a full frame and high sensitivity. There is no big problem with one-stop aperture, so generally the first choice is to add a fixed focus between 35mm and 85mm for daily close-up portrait shooting. 35 is slightly wider, and the blur is not as good as the 50 and 85 lenses of the same level, so When choosing, I generally prefer 50 or 85. There are two main orientations in choosing fixed focal lengths of 50 and 85. One is affordable and sufficient. The 50mm is mainly the original 50/1.8 and 50/ 1.4, and the Sigma 50/1.4 from the factory. Which one you choose will not be a big problem. You get what you pay for. The only thing you need to pay attention to is that the damage rate of the original 50/1.4 is relatively high. When purchasing It depends on character. The high-priced options are 50/1.2 and above. The advantage of 50/1.2 is not simply a wider aperture, but also workmanship and atmosphere portraying ability. Although many people think it is not worth the price, if you like the atmosphere portraying ability, it is still worth it. , I suggest you search for pictures in related forums to see if you like this feeling. It is completely different from 5014. If you don’t like it, don’t worry. Mido doesn't have to think so much, just go to L level and you won't regret it. There are also some German manual lenses that are close to the L lens in price, such as the lower-priced Zeiss or the higher-priced Leica. Adding an adapter ring is mainly for fun, but the convenience is definitely not as good as the EF lens, so if If you choose 50mm, it is recommended to go directly to 5012. If you don’t like 50mm, the original ones with 85mm focal length are mainly 8518 and 8512. The 8518 is also a good lens in terms of price. Choose it for affordable options. The biggest disadvantage of this lens is that it is easy to get dust. Mido will not regret choosing the 8512 second generation. As mentioned earlier, the advantage of Canon's red circle fixed focus is not only the larger aperture and better workmanship, but also a very obvious advantage is the ability to portray the atmosphere. 8512 is a camera that will not let you down. Of course, the premise of a lens that people regret is that it must be used well. If it is not used well, the extra money will be wasted. However, this should not be a big problem. With the accumulation of experience, it will be a matter of time to use it well. The manual heads with corresponding focal lengths are mainly German Zeiss 8514 and Leica 902. These are mainly second-hand heads. As mentioned before, it is just a matter of taste and number. If you are looking for convenience, I do not recommend it. In addition, in recent years The price has also been raised, and the price/performance ratio has also dropped a lot.

So in summary, the first recommendation for the first lens to be added is 5012 or 8512. The second suggestion is to get a German manual head, Zeiss 8514 or Leica 902, and add a better adapter ring. Anyway, if you don't get it right, you won't lose money if you change hands. The third recommendation is Sigma's 5014 or the original 8518, and the fourth recommendation is the original 5018. It's not that the original 5014 is not good, but I'm a little afraid of its quality. Overall, you get what you pay for.

The second shortcoming is naturally the focal length.

24 can still be used as a full wide angle. It is wide enough. If it is wider, such as 16-35 or 17-40 The visual impact of segment 17 is definitely very powerful, but it is difficult to control. The film yield will be relatively low at the beginning, so it is not recommended to use it any wider at the beginning. You will need to use it after you have mastered 24. That's totally fine. If you are eager to match the focal length and have the budget, you can add a 16-35 second generation. If the budget is small, the 17-40 is also okay. The 17-40 is more than half the price of the 16-35, although it is the same red color. aperture, but the ability to create atmosphere is not a little bit worse than the second generation 16-35. Of course, this can only be reflected when the aperture is large. After the aperture is closed, the difference will be very small, so if you have a small budget, buy a 1740. It’s not big either. If you have a budget, it is recommended to go directly to the second generation 1635. If you are not in a hurry to use super wide, then just don’t go for it. The 24 segments of 24-105 are enough for general shooting. After talking about wide angle, let’s talk about telephoto. 24-105 is actually a very commonly used focal length. If there is no special need, it is generally enough. Special need mainly refers to often shooting at longer distances, such as attending press conferences or performances. 105mm obviously has very little leeway, so major manufacturers generally set the focal length of 70-200 as one of their major three focal lengths. This focal length of Canon is naturally for beginners and small whites, and the other is the green head and big white that basically cover this focal length. Personal experience, for general use, the usage rate of the 135-200 focal length is actually relatively low. Xiaobai is my second Canon head, but later I found that I actually use Xiaobai most of the time. Its 200mm end, and many times it feels like 200 is not enough. Therefore, when recommending lenses to friends, I no longer recommend beginners as must-have lenses.

Correspondingly, there are actually 135L and 200L to choose from in this focal length. Of course, the price of 200L is a bit bt. Whether it is 218 or 220, people who don’t burn badly will generally not choose it. The 135L is a very affordable and abundant lens, so it is generally recommended as one of the Three Musketeers of Fixed Focus. Due to the structure of the 135 lens, each lens is strong, and the 135L is certainly quite good. However, when I say this, I am not suggesting that you buy these lenses, because I think less lenses are more. If you don’t want to take detours, it is better to focus on budgeting for 50L or 85L, followed by 35L. For general subjects that are not particularly needed, use 24L. -105 is enough. If you like to shoot birds and pat the little moon in your spare time, you can also have a large white as a backup. The size and weight of Dabai are close to that of Xiaobai, but the focal length is fully extended to 400mm. The effect is definitely better than that of Xiaobai with a 2x lens. To be honest, Xiaobai still feels that it is a bit short.

So in summary, it is recommended that lz be equipped with 1-2 lenses behind it and play with it slowly. One of these two lenses must be 5012 or 8512. If you have a small budget, you can also use 5014 or 8518 as mentioned above. . Then the second one also depends on the needs. If there is a need, the first choice is Dabai, followed by Xiaobai. If the budget is not enough, it will be considered Xiaobai.

If you have a big budget and want to play slowly, that’s a different matter. In addition to the two mentioned above, you can also add 1635 and 100L, and the subjects you can shoot will be very rich. Then there are several fixed focal lengths, such as 24L, 35L, 135L, 200L, etc. Of course, this is a recommendation for those with a fever, because in fact photography is not mainly about playing with equipment. Playing with equipment is just a process, but after playing with it Now let’s get back to photography. These lenses are all good lenses, but when actually purchasing them, you need to choose 1-2 that are commonly used according to your favorite themes.