"Wild Eater"'s 4,000-kilometer run, a complete documentary of the journey to the northern border

Zhang Yan edited cultural travel diary 2021-04-30 00:00 to take you to experience Hulunbuir? Authentic? Russian food

As the team leader, Lao Liu also prepared this part early For the guide, since Hulunbuir is geographically very close to Russia, the local area is also influenced by a lot of Russian culture. Russian restaurants are not uncommon. For example, this Western restaurant called Lubri specializes in Russian dishes. It’s also very famous! The design of the entire facade has a very Russian feel. Although I have never been to Russia, it must be similar. As soon as you enter the room, you will instantly feel like you have traveled back in time. The alternative decoration, luxurious chandeliers, large leather sofas, and the playing of "Moscow Suburbs at Night" really create the atmosphere. This restaurant is actually very popular on major platform stores and has almost become a check-in place in Hulunbuir. Most of the guests who come to eat are tourists. There should not be many locals. After all, the price is expensive. The online display shows that the per capita About 150 yuan. The waiters' outfits are also very attractive, such as this green dress, but let me ask you, do Russian waiters really dress like this? The dining tables for two on both sides of the corridor are also very stylish, which is quite suitable for couples to have a candlelight dinner together. But two chairs, one red and one green, do they have such a strong sense of design?

When this young lady saw my camera pointed at her, she immediately responded with a standard stance and a smile. This red windbreaker looked much more upscale than the green dress. She might be the restaurant manager. ! Before ordering, I went out with my colleagues to buy some supplies for tomorrow. When I came back, I found that the first wave of beer had already started drinking. At the same time, I glanced at the dishes on the table with my peripheral vision. It was so hard! This "Queen's Salad" can be said to be the most beautiful and vegetarian dish on the table. It tastes good, but it's a bit too small. It will be almost gone in half a mouthful for one person. The charcoal-grilled Russian sausage must be a hard dish. It tastes salty and mild. It is delicious, but it does not give you a very special feeling. At the same time, although it does not look like much, it is actually very long when you pull it. Lao Liuhui in the picture below Let me set an example for everyone.

This dish? The barbecue platter? is the toughest dish tonight. It contains beef, mutton, red sausage, chicken wings, and corn. It is a real big dish. The meat is exciting to look at, but the calories are also excessive. This "cheese bread" is covered with a thick layer of cheese and cheese. It tastes super sweet, like a simple and rough version of pizza.

Some of the decorations and tableware on the table are also very beautiful, like works of art.

In addition to the large fish and meat, some staple foods also taste very good. For example, the hand-picked rice ordered by Miss Anni has already made Old Liu unable to hold back. As an old horse who once weighed more than 200 kilograms, he still quietly watched this bowl of pasta in front of many delicacies. No wonder he can lose sixty or seventy kilograms with this kind of self-control!

After finishing the meal, Miss Anne ran to the table in the corridor to take a group photo. It seemed that she was in a good mood. Overall, the taste of this restaurant did not disappoint us, and every dish was delicious. Even if it’s a trap, friends who come to Hulunbuir can come and experience it.

Expand the rest of the text (1/10) 2 Walking on the grassland is full of scenery. Go back to the top. Walking on the grassland is full of scenery.

As we get closer to Hulunbuir, the terrain It is getting flatter and flatter, and when we first entered the territory of Aershan, a great spectacle also appeared in front of us. At a temperature of minus 40 degrees, the river was still gurgling. This "unfrozen river" is also a major feature of the Aershan region. The reason why the "unfrozen river" came into being is because the entire river section is rich in geothermal resources. The river flowing through this place has a temperature of more than minus 40 degrees Celsius in the severe winter. It didn't freeze even in the cold weather, and there was even steam rising from the river. Teacher Tie Beggar talked to us in front of the river. If he had been a teenager, he would definitely have taken a kayak and went rafting in the wild. His tone didn't sound like he was joking, he was so tough! What’s interesting is that we also found this kind of circular building made of cement on both sides of the road. I stupidly thought it was an air raid shelter, but Teacher Tie Beggar told us that it was actually a cowshed, which is convenient for shelter in windy weather. When it snows, the cows can go in to get shelter from the wind and snow, so that they won't be buried in the snow. Hmm... I've learned a lot! Sure enough, there were two fresh cow dung eggs inside. Keep walking forward, and finally drive into the real grassland. The grassland in winter is so white that you can't see the edge at a glance. The breeze blows and snowflakes hit your face. Although it is cold, you feel very comfortable. .

Entering the grassland, not only did the car have fun, but even Miss Anne seemed to have put aside her usual reserve, put on her gloves and rolled a snowball. Are you preparing to surprise Lao Liu?

After playing for a while, everyone did not forget about business and were about to start shooting video content. The color of the clothes of the three people matched the environment very well. As a cameraman who flew from Guangzhou, Dajie had to work despite the temperature difference of 50 to 60 degrees. The overall performance was still very good. One stop lasted an hour, which was very hard. Almost the whole time, he held the camera with his left hand and wiped his nose with his right hand. But compared to the professionalism of Mr. Tie Beggar, it is still a little less interesting. In order to find an angle, he would even bury his head in the snow. Only with this attitude can he take good photos.

Not to mention, these sets of animations taken by Teacher Tie Beggar are really good. I want to buy the photos of Tan Yue!

After observing, there is only one family in such a large pasture. Not surprisingly, this area belongs to their family. Their life should be just about herding sheep and cattle; staying away from the hustle and bustle of the city is a simple and happy way to live.

Is this snowman okay?

After staying for a while, the owner of this pasture drove past us in a pure off-road vehicle. He seemed to think that we were too lively and wanted to join in. On the provincial road to Hulunbuir, people herding cattle and sheep can be seen everywhere on both sides. When we parked the car next to it, the herdsmen immediately ran over, probably because they were afraid that we would steal the sheep!

Mutton is delicious, and the mutton from Inner Mongolia is even better, but from an animal point of view, sheep are quite cute and seem to be a bit naturally stupid. While you are interested in them, they are also very annoying to you. There is also plenty of interest.

I asked about the price. The smaller sheep are 1100-1300, and the larger sheep are around 1500. The price is not expensive, but it seems unrealistic to put one in the car and take it back to Beijing. Some people have done this. ? Attached is a picture of a small village at dusk, with only a few dozen households.

After a day of running around, we are about to arrive in the urban area of ??Hulunbuir ahead. Currently, Lao Liu has started to look for restaurants on his mobile phone. It seems that we can have a good meal tonight! 3 Hulunbuir "authentic" Russian food Go back to the top to take you to experience Hulunbuir? Authentic Russian food

As the team leader, Lao Liu also prepared a strategy for this part of the meal early because Hulunbuir is geographically very close to Russia. , so the local area is also influenced by a lot of Russian culture. Russian restaurants are not uncommon. For example, this Western restaurant called Lubri specializes in Russian cuisine and is also very famous in the local area! The design of the entire facade has a very Russian feel. Although I have never been to Russia, it must be similar. As soon as you enter the room, you will instantly feel like you have traveled back in time. The alternative decoration, luxurious chandeliers, large leather sofas, and the playing of "Moscow Suburbs at Night" really create the atmosphere. This restaurant is actually very popular on major platform stores and has almost become a check-in place in Hulunbuir. Most of the guests who come to eat are tourists. There should not be many locals. After all, the price is expensive. The online display shows that the per capita About 150 yuan. The outfits of the waiters are also very attractive, such as this green dress, but let me ask you, do Russian waiters really dress like this? The dining tables for two on both sides of the corridor are also very stylish, which is quite suitable for couples to have a candlelight dinner together. But two chairs, one red and one green, do they have such a strong sense of design?

When this young lady saw my camera pointed at her, she immediately responded with a standard stance and a smile. This red windbreaker looked much more upscale than the green dress. She might be the restaurant manager. ! Before ordering, I went out with my colleagues to buy some supplies for tomorrow. When I came back, I found that the first wave of beer had already started drinking. At the same time, I glanced at the dishes on the table with my peripheral vision. It was so hard! This "Queen's Salad" can be said to be the most beautiful and vegetarian dish on the table. It tastes good, but it's a bit too small. It will be almost gone in half a mouthful for one person. The charcoal-grilled Russian sausage must be a hard dish. It tastes salty and mild. It is delicious, but it does not give you a very special feeling. At the same time, although it does not look like much, it is actually very long when you pull it. Lao Liuhui in the picture below Let me set an example for everyone.

This dish? The barbecue platter? is the toughest dish tonight. It contains beef, lamb, red sausage, chicken wings, and corn. It is a real big dish. The meat is exciting to look at, but the calories are also excessive. This "cheese bread" is covered with a thick layer of cheese and cheese. It tastes super sweet, like a simple and rough version of pizza.

Some of the decorations and tableware on the table are also very beautiful, like works of art.

In addition to the many big fish and meat, some staple food also tastes very good. For example, the hand-picked rice ordered by Miss Anne has already made Old Liu unable to hold back. As an old horse who once weighed more than 200 kilograms, he still quietly watched this bowl of pasta in front of many delicacies. No wonder he can lose sixty or seventy kilograms with this kind of self-control!

After finishing the meal, Miss Anne ran to the table in the corridor to take a group photo. It seemed that she was in a good mood; overall, the taste of this restaurant did not disappoint us, and every dish was delicious. Even if it’s a trap, friends who come to Hulunbuir can come and experience it. 4 A small accident still happened on the way back to the top and an accident still happened in Genhe.

After a night of rest, we are about to set off from Hulunbuir to Genhe City. Let me share with you some popular science here. Genhe City, Inner Mongolia, is available all year round. The average temperature is -5.3°C, and the lowest temperature recorded in history is -58°C. The heating period is as long as 9 months, so it is called the "Cold Pole of China". It is also an important destination of our trip. In order to welcome the coming cold, we We have to be fully prepared in the big city of Hulunbuir, and go to the labor insurance store in advance to buy more clothes for everyone while ensuring the cost. As a pure Northeasterner, Director Liu seems to be more concerned about keeping warm than the two southerners. Dogskin hats, military coats, anti-freeze patches, everything that can be arranged is basically arranged. The clear sky, the buildings with ethnic characteristics, and the scenery outside the city of Hulunbuir are particularly good! It seems that the famous BGM has been ringing in my ears, "The eagle is flying in the blue sky, I am looking at Beijing from the grassland!" ? The White Pagoda passing by is the Two Rivers Sacred Mountains tourist attraction in Hulunbuir, and it was also the former Hulunbuir National Culture Park. The scenic area is very large, and it is also one of the iconic attractions in Hulunbuir. There are not many cars along the way, and the road surface is also this kind of asphalt road. There are still endless white grasslands on both sides. It is estimated that we can reach today's destination, Genhe City, very quickly by driving like this.

The journey is not far, and there is plenty of time. If we can get off the trail, we must go to the snow for a while. We have just buried some spots and are ready to take some photos of the climb. Why is the car still stopped? Just 6.7 minutes after walking down the slope, the tire on the right front wheel dried up at a speed visible to the naked eye. The surroundings were deserted, more than 100 kilometers away from Hulunbuir, and still more than 100 kilometers away from Genhe. It seems that the big stone on the side of the road is the culprit of the tire puncture. But in any case, the broken tire cannot be used again, so we can only replace it with the spare tire in the trunk and then think of a solution. Tanyue is equipped with a non-full-size spare tire. In theory, if you replace it with a non-full-size spare tire, the maximum driving speed should not exceed 80km/h, and the driving distance should not exceed 100 kilometers. As old Liu and Tie Beggar who have been away all year round, they were also skilled in setting up the jack and began to remove the tire. They moved very quickly and completed the replacement in less than 20 minutes. With experienced drivers on duty, we felt much more at ease.

Although you can’t see it clearly in the picture, the hole in the outer tire wall is really quite big, measuring seven or eight centimeters. It seems that this tire can no longer be used.

But in this extremely cold, desolate environment, how to deal with this matter is also a problem. If my colleagues and I take the tires and drive one of the cars back Hulunbuir is to be replaced, which is a round trip of nearly three or four hours. In an environment of minus 30 degrees, their supplies and heating will also be a problem; if the broken car is dumped here and everyone sets off, then 9 people will also sit in it. No less.

After a comprehensive discussion among the experienced drivers, and after confirming that there was hot water and sufficient food in the car, we decided to send my colleague Zhang Yan and I back to Hulunbuir to change the tires; Fortunately, it is only 2 p.m. and the weather is not too cold yet. I would like to remind everyone that if this happens at night, you cannot leave people in the wild under any circumstances.

It took about 2 hours to turn around from the Hailar toll station and return to Hohhot to reach the tire shop. It was already 4:30 pm. Unfortunately, this store did not have snow tires that fit the Tanyue size, so they had to borrow them from another store. It was almost 5:30 after changing the tires, and 3 hours had passed since we set off. When they met up with the team, Lao Liu and the others were driving forward at a slow speed. It was already around 7 o'clock, and the outdoor temperature was already close to minus 35 degrees Celsius. The fuel gauge of Lao Liu's car was about to light up because the air conditioner had been on for a day. , it seems that arriving a little later will really cause problems.

After changing the tires, we arrived in Genhe City. It was just around 9 o'clock, and the sign of China's cold pole also appeared in front of us; today may be said to be a nervous day. Rushing non-stop, enduring the cold while waiting for rescue, problems may arise if the chain falls on either side, but in the end there was no danger. Everyone needs to take a good rest tonight.

5 Continue to arrive at the outskirts of Genhe City Go back to the top and continue to arrive at the outskirts of Genhe City

Genhe City is a county-level city under the jurisdiction of Hulunbuir City in the Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region, and "Genhe" means "Pudzu" in Mongolian. The homophonic pronunciation of Le? means "clear and transparent river". It is located on the western slope of the northern section of the Greater Khingan Mountains, north of Hulunbuir City, adjacent to the Oroqen Autonomous Banner to the east, Ergun City to the west, Yakeshi City to the south, and Mohe City in the Daxinganling Region of Heilongjiang Province to the north. Its annual average temperature is - At 5.3°C, the extreme temperature has reached -58°C. It is also the current record holder for the lowest temperature in cities in my country, and has the title of the coldest city in China. Entering the urban area of ??Genhe, the first thing you see is the landmark building of Genhe City, a huge thermometer, which can intuitively see the temperature at that time. As the city that created the lowest temperature in China, this large thermometer is of great significance. . A suspension bridge in the city of Genhe spans the entire Genhe River. Although it has not been officially completed, the main structure has been completed. However, due to winter reasons, no painting work has been carried out. If nothing else, it will undergo the final painting this summer. I believe it will look even more beautiful then. Another interesting thing is that in such a cold place, potted plants are also unique. The flower pots here are actually made of ice, which is indeed very local. There is also an even more unexpected facility that is also made of ice. Let me give you a clue first, and the answer will be revealed later. This time it is still the golden combination of Teacher Liu, Annie and Iron Beggar. They eat wilderness barbecue in Genhe, and then the final destination is Beihong Village, Mohe City. They experience a winter fishing in Heilongjiang and eat an authentic riverside stew. fish.

Since this season of the Gen River belongs to the ice period, the water in the Gen River is basically frozen, and only some tributaries are still flowing. At this time, the iron beggar is introducing the roots to Annie. Some basic information about the river. In fact, the urban area of ??Genhe is not big, with only one main street. However, what is surprising is that despite the cold weather, the streets are still bustling with traffic in the early morning. The snow in some alleys was not cleared in time, resulting in the road surface being very rough. It is slippery, so always have the driver to ensure driving safety. What’s more interesting is that the road is actually marked with lines, and I saw a sign on the roadside saying that parking in a parking space will result in a fine, but when you look at the road in front of you, you can’t see the lines on the ground? It’s sold by a street vendor. The items are relatively frost-resistant, and most of them are dried fruits. Of course, there are also characteristics of the cold weather in the north. The ice cream is sold directly in open-air display cabinets, which shows how low the temperature is. Candied haws of sugar can be found everywhere, and the price is very reasonable. We bought 2 bunches at 3 yuan each, which is completely acceptable. 6 Aoluguya - the last hunting tribe in China Back to top Aoluguya - the last hunting tribe in China

After a brief appreciation of the city scenery, we set off to the Aoluguya - the last hunting tribe in China - the Ewenki .

Aoluguya, also known as the reindeer Ewenki, means a place with lush poplar forests. They are known as the "Angel Deer Tribe" and "China's Last Hunting Tribe". They are also the only ethnic group that has preserved the "reindeer culture" in our country so far. It is said that there are only about 30 pure-blooded reindeer Ewenki people in the last generation. Although the government has gradually improved the conditions of the Ewenki people and urbanized them, there are still a very small number of reindeer Ewenki people who still retain their original and natural way of life and production.

The first place I discovered small animals in Aoluguya was actually Alaska, but I didn’t find it strange. The dogs here are both domesticated and free-range.