Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Travel guide - What style of leather shoes is not easy to wrinkle?

What style of leather shoes is not easy to wrinkle?

All genuine leather can be used

There is no genuine cowhide that does not wrinkle after acceptance, such as,, two-layer leather, poly urethane, broken leather, suede leather (two-layer leather) and litchi grain leather, which are relatively difficult to wrinkle. It is normal for genuine cowhide to wrinkle, but it is not normal to wrinkle.

distinguishing real leather shoes

1. Fabric

When distinguishing leather shoes, you should first check the upper material and determine the type of upper leather. For example, if the "genuine leather" grain surface layer is used, it has the original natural characteristics: the pores of cowhide are small, irregular and uniform; The pores and eyes of goatskin are "tile-shaped" in rows; Pigskin has three holes and a pile, which is distributed in character. Cattle hide has fine tissue fibers, rough buffalo hide and coarse pores and eyes. If the grain surface layer loses its original characteristics after modification, it should be carefully classified and identified according to the processing technology.

aniline leather coated with aniline is characterized by crystal clear light on the surface, bright light, no glare and no plastic feeling.

When natural leather is cooked into leather, the cowhide is generally 5 ~ 6mm thick. Shoe-making should be divided into two layers by a leather chipper. The surface layer is a grain surface layer, and the woven fibers are fine and compact, smooth and beautiful, with good strength and wear resistance. The inner layer is a pile surface layer, with thick fibers and large gaps, and the surface has pile hair. The surface of the first leather is smoother and flatter than that of the second leather, and the second leather is slightly rough. After coating, film transfer or film pasting, the surface of two-layer leather can not be rough, but the film transfer leather has poor low temperature resistance and is prone to wrinkle at low temperature. The cowhide two-layer leather is flat and has no obvious defects after embossing, while the pigskin two-layer leather often has three piles of pores faintly visible, where the luster is dark. We should pay attention to the fact that the modified leather destroys the original grain surface layer, and then presses the pattern. The pattern types can imitate cattle, sheep, pig skin, etc., but the pattern has no pore eyes, and the pattern floats on the surface layer of the leather, while the pore eyes of the front leather exist, which can be identified by careful observation.

artificial leather is a layer of organic material coated on a cloth base, which is divided into two types: thin (imitation sheep leather) and thick (coated with foamed organic material and then pressed with patterns), and is mostly used for women's shoes and children's shoes. Synthetic leather is a kind of shoe upper leather made by pressing organic fibers and coating laminated flowers, which is mostly used in sandals. Regenerated leather is made by grinding leather residue and leather fiber, bonding them with adhesive under high pressure, forming sheets, slicing them to the required thickness, and then finishing them to make them have certain leather characteristics. They are widely used in luggage and leather parts, and a small amount are used to make shoes. When distinguishing genuine leather from artificial materials, look at the appearance first. Genuine leather has no base, and artificial materials have a base. If you touch it again, the artificial material has a very strong plastic feeling and bright luster, but it feels cold when you touch it in winter, and the leather is smooth and has no cold feeling when you touch it. Press the soft part of the front of the finished shoe with your thumb, and many small and uniform patterns will appear in the dermis around your thumb. When your thumb is lifted, the patterns will disappear. However, artificial materials may have no patterns, or coarse patterns may appear. When the thumb is lifted, the patterns do not disappear, indicating that the grain surface layer on the surface of the material has been detached from the mesh layer below, and the leather shoes made of this fabric are unqualified.

We can also observe the cross-section of the upper when we distinguish between genuine leather and artificial leather. The cross-section of genuine leather is composed of irregular fibers, and there is no obvious change after scraping off the broken skin fibers with fingernails. For genuine leather, the texture of different parts is irregular, and the nose smells fishy, while artificial leather smells plastic or rubber, and the texture rules of each part are consistent. Adhesive-coated leather is a synthetic leather with the inner layer of natural leather as the base, which is not called "real leather" but an artificial surface layer attached to the loose meat fiber layer under natural leather.

II. Shoe lining, hook center and shoe seams

The shoe lining of leather shoes is a reinforcing material used to prevent stretching and deformation and improve the touch of the foot surface. It is required that the shoe lining material has a delicate touch, excellent ventilation, moisture absorption, moisture drainage and no color loss. The middle and high-grade leather shoes are all made of natural leather and cotton cloth, and those with artificial leather in them are low-grade products. The bottom of the shoe is the pond bottom. When checking, the shoe is folded at an angle of 9, so it can't crack. Some fake shoes use unqualified recycled leather pond bottom and cardboard non-woven pond bottom. Because of the low latex content in the materials, they become soft after absorbing sweat. The hook of the sole-a steel plate that serves as a bridge between the insole and the outsole-may go out of the pond bottom and prick the sole.

the length, width and elastic modulus of the hook center, as well as the deformation after external force, are stipulated in the national standards, and must have certain elasticity and rigidity. The material should be 65 manganese steel, and the elastic limit load should not be less than 29N N.

when checking the sewing line of the upper and the adhesive seam of the upper and sole, check whether there is any broken line and whether the sewing is standard and tidy. For glued leather shoes, the joint between the upper and the bottom should be bonded flat without furrows and ridges, and there is no virtual seam and glue opening. The peeling strength of glued leather shoes is 54N/cm for men's shoes and 4 ~ 49 n/cm for women's shoes. If the sample is initially glued on the testing machine (that is, the adhesive seam of the outer upper and outsole is deformed and discolored), it is unqualified. Consumers can break off the upper or press it inward. If the joint between the upper and the outsole appears discoloration or glue opening, it indicates poor adhesion.

III. Sole

The outsole of leather shoes is divided into rubber, imitation leather, plastic and rubber-plastic soles according to raw materials. Rubber soles are soft, elastic, non-slip, wear-resistant, heat-resistant and cold-resistant, and the weight is slightly heavier. The imitation leather sole is light, stiff, wear-resistant and flexible, but it has poor elasticity and is not slip-proof. The plastic bottom is wear-resistant, with smooth appearance, bright colors, non-slip, poor cold resistance and heavy weight. Rubber-plastic soles have the advantages of both rubber and plastic, and are wear-resistant, elastic and soft, so they are the first choice for middle and high-grade shoes at present.

The thickness standard of the forefoot of the outsole requires that it should reach 2/3 of the total thickness of the outsole. During inspection, the depth of the inner and outer patterns of the outsole should be calculated at the same time, and it should not exceed 1/3 of the total thickness of the outsole. If this standard is not met, fake shoes can be judged. In addition to thickness, soles should also have folding resistance and wear resistance. Because the soles are generally made of polymer materials, the folding resistance of the soles is tested on a special folding tester according to national standards. After the soles are folded at a certain frequency, a certain angle and a certain number of times, the cracking length of the soles is not more than 4, 15 and 12mm according to different varieties. According to the national standards, the inspection of the wear resistance of soles is carried out on a special wear tester, so that the inspected soles are in contact with a standard grinding wheel and subjected to certain pressure, and the grinding wheel rotates at a certain speed. After a certain wear time, according to different varieties, the length of wear marks is not more than 16, 12 and 1 mm. A certain adhesive strength is required between the outsole and the outsole of travel shoes. When testing, it is carried out on a universal material testing machine or a tensile testing machine, and the adhesive strength is not less than 2N/cm.

Fourth, the heel

After fixing the shoe, clamp the heel and pull it with a tension machine to see how much tension it can withstand. The heel standard of shoes stipulates that in visual inspection, the heel should be broken by hand first to observe the deformation of the sub-opening (the opening where the outer side is connected with the heel). If the deformation is large, there may be something wrong with the heel, then take off the insole and see the heel installation. High heels over 4cm must be fixed by a wooden screw, and the whole fastness of the heel is guaranteed by the wooden screw and several wooden nails inside. The wood should be made of good material, and the wood screw can't be split when it goes in, otherwise you can observe the deformation of the heel or the looseness of the heel when you break the heel lightly.

V. Appearance

Put the shoes flat on the counter or glass plate at will to see if the shoes are stable. When the shoes are placed on the table, they should immediately stop shaking from side to side. Looking back from the toe of the shoes, there should be little difference between the inside and outside edges of the soles and the tilted size of the table, so it is better to keep a balance. The heel of the shoe should be vertical up and down, and it is better not to tilt to the outside or inside. Thirdly, looking down at the vamp from top to bottom, we can see the symmetry of the upper parts and whether the outline of the shoe is deformed, and it is better to take the straight line between the toe and the midpoint of the heel as the symmetry axis; Look at whether the components on the upper are symmetrical, and it is better not to move forward or backward because the inside and outside are symmetrical. The outline of the shoe should be held slightly towards the inside of the shoe, and it is better to be smooth and round, and the shoes twisted into lotus leaves are inferior shoes.

During the appearance inspection of shoes, we should also pay attention to the fact that the upper is not allowed to have obvious disability, loose surface, peeling of coating, cracking and discoloration. The overall structure of the shoes should be straight and flat, with no spikes exposed in the shoes. The same parts of the two shoes should be symmetrical left and right, the hardness, color and structure of the soles should be consistent, and there should be no obvious difference in the length of the front upper and the height of the rear upper. The two uppers and soles should be closely combined, and there should be no obvious wrinkles on the upper.

Sixth, try it by hand

Touch the inner cavity of the shoe with your hand to see if there is unevenness in the shoe. Any place that can touch the feet should not be uneven, otherwise the feet will blister, and under normal circumstances, there must be insoles in the shoes. The insole can keep the inside of the shoe clean and cover a few uneven nail holes on the insole. Under normal circumstances, men's shoes are half insoles, and women's shoes should be integral insoles. Then pinch the heel of the upper with your hand to see if it is stiff and elastic, not too hard, or it will hurt your ankle. The insole of the shoe is the trunk and skeleton of the shoe, so it is better to press the waist hard as the insole. Touch the insole of the shoe with the fingertip of the index finger downward, and let the index finger close to the upper of the lateral ankle to see if the second knuckle line of the index finger is consistent with the height of the lateral ankle. Generally, shoes for daily use, social etiquette shoes and fashion shoes should be slightly higher than the second knuckle line of the index finger. The back uppers of low-waisted sports shoes and leisure shoes are all soft-mouth structures, and the height of the lateral ankle uppers can be slightly higher than the second knuckle line of the index finger.

insert the tip of your middle finger under the toe sole to see if the toe stilt height is appropriate. When the toe of the toe is just enough for the thickness of the belly of the middle finger, it indicates that the toe of the toe is just qualified. When the front toe of the toe is too large, the stability decreases; When you are too young, your shoes are easily deformed and your feet are easily tired.

If there are wrinkles:

Clean the boots first, and then find crayons of the same color and apply them on the wrinkles. Then use a clean rag to spread it evenly. Repeat the above process two or three times, and the shoes look like refurbished ones.