Journey to the south was drunk in Heihe River.

Mohe Arctic Village is all the way to the east, and it is picturesque all the way from Huma to Heihe. But at the root of it, in fact, we have been enjoying the generous gift of this great river-Heilongjiang. In fact, Mohe was once called "Mohe River". I have been thinking that it might be better if we still keep the title of "Mohe River", so that whether it is from ink to black or from black to ink, it is not a journey of "looking for the north in the dark".

Heilongjiang, the true fame of this great river on the Sino-Russian border is far from being known to the world. First of all, the basin area of Heilongjiang River is larger than that of the Yangtze River, with the basin area of Heilongjiang River being more than 1.843 million square kilometers and the basin area of Yangtze River being about 1.8 million square kilometers. Secondly, according to the most accurate measurement, the length of Heilongjiang has surpassed that of the Yellow River, and the amount of water is far more than that of the Yellow River. Third, most of the water system in Heilongjiang is distributed in forest areas, with little soil erosion. The sediment concentration in the river is only one quarter of that in the Yangtze River and one-third of that in the Yellow River! Among the famous rivers in China and even in the world, the water quality ranks high.

Then why doesn't Heilongjiang feel so famous as a river? Personally, I think that apart from the reason that it has been located in the north of the north and developed late, it is mainly because after the Aihui Treaty, this once inland river in China has become a boundary river, and the basin area and length have been divided up by Russia for more than half, so the popularity of this great river seems to have been cut by half, which has greatly shrunk in people's eyes.

But it doesn't affect the real charm of Heilongjiang at all. Just like her clarity, you will never think that a river with water color like ink from a distance is so clear unless you go near. It is precisely because she constantly receives a lot of fertile humus along the way, and most of the humus is deposited and attached to the sand at the bottom of the river, which leads to the black color of the water, including many of her tributaries.

The colors of rivers can also confuse people. Therefore, in ancient times, the productive forces were extremely underdeveloped, especially in such a wild place, the ancestors were full of awe of such a big black river, which was once named "Weak Water" in Wei and Jin Dynasties. This is a very poetic name in the eyes of many writers and artists now. Actually, it is not. In The Journey to the West's description of the extremely dangerous quicksand river, there is a poem to prove it: "8 quicksand boundary, 3, weak water depth, goose feathers can't float, reed flowers will sink at the bottom." It can be seen that in ancient times, not everyone dared to come to "take a ladle of water" for such a "weak water of three thousand". Another proof of this great river's "disaster" is the name of the ancient city of Heihe "aihui", which means "awesome" in Manchu. The origin of the name "Heihe" is actually Heilongjiang, specifically a section of the great river.

Heihe is a beautiful and legendary city. It is suggested to look at the relevant information first when traveling to Heihe, or find a qualified and high-level tour guide in the local area. Otherwise, it's really a cursory tour. Because all the way from Mohe, mountains, rivers, forests and wetlands are more common, and it is inevitable that there will be some visual fatigue.

but Heihe won't let you down. Passing through Huma County, take Provincial Highway 29 and enter the Heihe boundary. The terrain gradually transits from Daxing 'anling to Xiaoxing 'anling. If you look closely, there is still a difference. After the "three cards", the highway has become a real "riverside". Driving on this road is simply a pleasure. Looking up, the sky is flowing, the sky is clear and white, and looking left at Dajiangdong to meander, and the green hills, canyons, forests and fields on the right hand side are constantly changing. Coupled with good road conditions and few vehicles, the fun of driving is all in it.

12 years ago, because of a research project, I have been to Heihe, so I still know a little about this city. When approaching Heihe city from north to southeast, a big lake suddenly appeared in our field of vision surrounded by mountains, which is the famous "Woniu Lake". If Heilongjiang is a black jade belt, Woniu Lake, which is located on the bank of Heilongjiang, is a bright pearl next to the jade belt. The city is smart because of water, the river is moving, the lake is still, and the charm of the city comes out between movement and static.

It's just that there is a golden and dazzling sculpture of a lying cow by the lake. Personally, I think this is really a failure, because the "lying cow" in history has nothing to do with cows. Woniu Lake was originally called Woniu River. In the 197s, the river was dammed, so Woniu River became Woniu Lake. The original name of Woniu River in the local area is Eni River, and Woniu River is the sound transition of Eni River. Erni is also homophonic and written in different ways, such as Erni, Erni, Eji and Erniang. The word "Erni" means mother. Historically, the Heihe River was the place where Manchu lived in the world. Therefore, from the distribution of northern nationalities in ancient China, the meaning of pronunciation and many other aspects, it can be concluded that the Dingni River should be called Manchu.

for a traveler who is so picky, I think the local tour guide won't like it. Of course, I am self-aware and help myself, so I can be more free. Even if my cognition is wrong, I can correct my mistakes and justify myself. Traveling is just about having fun.

Close to the urban area, the Sino-Russian amorous feelings garden is a must-see. Unfortunately, due to the preparations for the "Provincial Tourism Conference" in August, this exotic shooting base, which was selected by many Chinese and Russian film and television works, was temporarily closed, which made it impossible for families to see its beauty. For the same reason, we failed to enter the ancient city of aihui, the aihui Historical Exhibition Hall and the Educated Youth Museum. Instead, there was a real picnic under the ancient city of aihui and beside Heilongjiang. "Boiled instant noodles in Heilongjiang" attracted many tourists' attention. When washing dishes in the river after dinner, I accidentally caught several small fish looking for food. It seems that these so-called "junk food" really have the special charm of attracting animals!

although the peripheral scenic spots are temporarily closed, one of the benefits is that you can finally calm down and enjoy the city scenery. The hotel we chose is Wangjiang Hotel, just opposite the Mother Square on the Heilongjiang River. Looking up is Blagoveshchensk, the capital of Russian Amur state and the third largest city in the Far East. It originally belonged to China and was originally named "Hailanpao".

Literally speaking, "Hailanpao" is a beautiful name in Chinese. In fact, it is pronounced as "hailan boo" in Manchu, which means "Elm House". This name appeared as early as junior high school history textbooks. In Heilongjiang people's minds, this name is full of bloody and humiliating memories. Looking at the city on the other side, I always have an unspeakable resentment. Although it is really beautiful, this beauty is based on our cowardice, incompetence and bullying. Standing on the edge of Heilongjiang this time, I feel the same as when I first came here. But looking at the other side of the river for more than ten years, there is still no big change, and looking at the changing and high-rise city on our side, I can't help but feel good. When you are in the mood, undress and swim in the water with other tourists. This is the first time in my life that I was really bathed in the mother river of Heilongjiang people. I got drunk as soon as I entered Shui Xin, but I really felt the strength and danger of this great river.

On the surface, the speed of the river is not fast, but once the water crosses the waist, it is difficult for you to grasp the balance. An irresistible and powerful force keeps coming, pushing you forward and forward, and you can't hesitate at all. Compared with the Hulan River and Songhua River in my hometown, I suddenly feel that if we make a metaphor, these two rivers are like the "seven eccentrics in the south of the Yangtze River" in The Legend of the Condor Heroes. At first, I thought they were masters, and I didn't know that "Nandi Beigai" was here until I saw Heilongjiang! People often say that if you don't advance, you will retreat, but here, even if I try my best, I can't advance against the current! As mentioned above, when the Qing army marched into Yaxar, the reason why it would rather take land than water in summer must be the same.

It's night, because the south of Heihe River is smooth, and both wife and children can drive, so I feel relaxed, find a special restaurant, and enjoy the fresh fish in Longjiang and the delicious food in Heihe River. Half a catty of white wine makes me feel refreshed. Walk along the river after dinner and enjoy the beautiful scenery on both sides. Landing on the island (Dahei Island) depends on the fence and thinks about the vicissitudes of life for a hundred years. Once upon a time, people used knives, guns and axes to occupy my home and kill my relatives; Once upon a time, people's ships and ships were arrogant and arrogant; Once upon a time, people were well-fed and brightly lit, and once upon a time, people were ready and eyeing. Now, our side is full of flowers, tall buildings, bright lights and traffic.

Only 12 years ago, on the National Day of 28, my friends and I visited Heilongjiang at night here. When the lights were on, fireworks suddenly appeared on our side, and the sky was bright, with tourists weaving and bright lights. At that time, the lights on the other side of the river were separated, and residents along the river gathered at the riverside to "borrow light" to enjoy the scenery on the other side. At that moment, I sincerely felt the pride and pride of being a China person. Today, compared with 12 years ago, the scenery here is better, while the other side remains the same. You can't show off your wealth, but you can't live without national pride. Walking on Wang Su Street and passing through the anti-Japanese office in Ma Zhanshan, every scenic spot is silently telling the future generations about history. The so-called justice can only become dignity and reality when the country is strong, and dignity is bought by countless Chinese sons and daughters with blood and life. You can't forget it, let alone forget it!

On the second day, our family visited "half of aihui", because the ancient city and exhibition hall were closed, but because of this, we had enough time to have a good look at this quite famous town. It is famous because it is the earliest administrative place in Heilongjiang Province, which can also be understood as the "provincial capital". In the 22nd year of Qing Emperor Kangxi (1683), in order to resist the invasion of tsarist Russia, the Qing government set up generals guarding Heilongjiang and other places on the left bank of Heilongjiang (now Weixiaoleyi village in Russia), built a city to station troops, and appointed the anti-Russian famous soldier Sabusu as the first general of Heilongjiang. In the 24th year of Kangxi (1685), General Heilongjiang moved to tolga City (now Aihui Town), a Dahur castle on the right bank of the river, and called this place Xin Aihui City, also known as Heilongjiang City. Unfortunately, many historical sites have been razed to the ground due to the continuous war after the late Qing Dynasty, but the early customs buildings were basically intact, with an obvious combination of Chinese and Western styles. The reconstruction of the ancient city is also well-founded, and it has basically restored its original appearance. I have been to the Historical Exhibition Hall last time, and there are many cultural relics in it. The description and performance of aihui's history are very vivid, which is particularly worth seeing.

The statue of Sabusu, the first general of Heilongjiang Province in Qing Dynasty, which is under construction on the riverside, is glaring at the north, which should mean something. Near noon, my wife got in touch with her monitor in college and now a leader in Heihe City. Of course, we have known each other for a long time. When we were young, we had similar interests and similar tempers. We had many contacts, and we had already reached the relationship that students were not close to each other.

this gentleman was excellent at school, and he was good at making friends and drinking, and he acted bravely. This time, when we learned that we had arrived in Heihe, we took time out of our busy schedule to hold a banquet in a special fish restaurant. I haven't seen men in Northeast China for many years, and they are all good drinkers. He is a person who has devoted his heart and feelings to Heihe River. I am a person who has a little research and interest in Heihe River, so he is no longer the host at the moment, and I don't take myself as a guest. Under the company and gaze of my father, wife and children, two men who are "running for five years" and three bottles of "golden sturgeon" vodka called "Russian Maotai" are there.

After that, I slurred my words and said to my son: Boy, whoever says that "Vienna can drink" in the future, you can proudly tell him that your father once drank their high-alcohol wine!

I'm really drunk this time, drunk in the human history of Heihe River, drunk in the beautiful border river, drunk in delicious food and wine, and even drunk in the deep classmate friendship that is still calm after being washed away by lead China. Such a black river, I will come again!