Serially Crossing the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet (I) Diary of a Pure Disciple on the 13th Line into Tibet

Walking into Tibet, Sichuan-Tibet Middle Line Chapter Preface

Day 225-228

Starting point: the first tea field in Tibet

End point: Zhongyu Township

Ride: about 25KM

Walking: 115KM

Date: April 23, 221. After walking along the highway for an hour, there was a grocery store on the side of the road, which was closed for seasonal reasons. When passing by the tea field in front, it happened that the clouds broke the sunrise, and the warm sunshine shone on the still dense tea field. The pickers in Sanliang were busy, and the snow-capped mountain was clearly visible in the distance. The snow-capped mountain tea field was worthy of the name, and it should be the only place in China.

I started on the road with the hope of getting a ride, but all the way to Yigong Tea Farm, there was no harvest. When you reach the mouth of Yigong Lake, there are two forks in the road. One kilometer to the left is Yigong Tea Farm, and the right is through several small villages to Yigong Township. Because I met an aunt who was eating ice cream at the intersection, seeing the melting degree of cream, I expected that the tea farm had supplies, so I decided to turn left and look for supplies.

Only the road around the lake from Tongmai Bridge to Yigong Township can be found on the map. When I stopped at the first canteen in the tea farm, I learned that the asphalt road from Yigong Township to Bagai Township had just been completed this year, and according to the boss's tone, the road from Bagai Township to Naqu was always open, which increased my determination to move on, otherwise I was hesitant to go back to Lhasa.

The village and Yigong Township are on the other side, and the side of the road around the lake is empty. There are so few cars that you can count them with one hand in an afternoon, and you can't catch a car. When you wave several times, the cars speed up and pass by, which is chilling. The water level in Yigongcuo is also unpopular this season. When the wind is strong, it blows up the dazzling sand at the bottom of the dry lake basin, and even feels like walking in the desert.

But this place is not without its merits. The wetland park not far from the tea farm is a good place to go. Because of the pleasant environment, the peach trees here are earlier than the flowering period, and the lush green branches have even sprouted young fruits. If you come here in early spring, the snow-capped mountains will set each other off, the animals will bow their heads and become interesting, and the peach blossoms will look at each other, which will surely win the spring. There are still traces of cross-country mileage on the roads around here, and I am willing to run a marathon here.

It looks small on the map of Yigongcuo, but it's too hard to walk, and half a circle of 2 kilometers is fatal. I spent the whole afternoon by the lake. If it weren't for the distant snow-capped mountains and glaciers and the nearby spring trees, I really didn't have the interest to go on. At dusk, at least I went to other people's places and took advantage of the infinite setting sun to set up my tent in front of a rape flower.

Ranch

April 24, 221

Original link: Sugiyama Road

The tent was wet again by the rain at night, and the increased load made people unhappy. Not far away, it is the fork in the road between Huanhu Road and Bagai Township. It is impossible to walk a few kilometers to Yigong Township to buy supplies, and take the dry food from the tea farm to the depths of the unknown canyon. Going forward from here, we will start to go deep into the hinterland of the East Tibet Ring Road, and the scenery of snow-capped mountains, forest farms and pastoral areas is infinite.

I stopped a construction truck when climbing the hill, but the driver pointed out that the place was not far ahead. I looked around and seemed to see a corner of a similar building not far away, so I let them go. It was only when it was mistaken for the billboard of the building that it was too late to react and missed the opportunity.

After leaving the lake area, it rises and falls all the way, and then it passes through a closed canyon. The mountains and valleys in this area are deep, the vegetation is dense and cool, but the dark terrain reveals a faint sense of oppression. After more than an hour's walk, you will see a waterfall coming down from the middle of the mountain. When you get closer, you will find that it is called "Bagai Waterfall", and there is a golden square pavilion next to it for rest. The pavilion is spacious. If it is getting late, it is also an excellent camping place isolated from the world.

When you leave the waterfall, the canyon will open up, and then you will pass a cuckoo observation deck, and there is also a small golden pavilion. Unfortunately, you missed the flowering period, and you will only see endless greenery. At noon, I suddenly found a figure on the grass in front of me and told me to rest. Isn't this the driver I let go in the morning? So I unpacked and took a big break. He said that my colleague would deliver the meal later, so he could take me forward for a while. There is a village not far ahead, where there is 4G and supplies. This is the most comfortable thing I have heard these two days.

From Yigongcuo Hukou to Bagai Township, we will pass through several villages. The first village (let's call it Village 1 for the time being) is about 2 kilometers away from Hukou, which is the only place with supplies and signals in several villages. After the first replenishment in the village, my brother's colleague sent me directly to the second village, which is about three kilometers apart. I thanked my little brother's colleague and walked for about an hour to village three. After that, I walked all the way through the canyon and no one was seen.

near six o'clock, a small green field appeared in front of me, and several dilapidated wooden houses stood by the roadside. The posture and atmosphere here are not like a village, but a small farm. A motorcycle stopped by the roadside, and blue smoke floated from the nearest wooden house. There were cows and horses here, reminding me that today's trip should be over.

s33k989.5

April 25, 221

Original link: Shandao

After eating dry food, I set off. Because it was early in the morning, there were only local engineering vehicles on the road, and two consecutive vehicles ignored me. After more than an hour, the third one finally arrived at mine. It's just that he gets off work at seven o'clock, so I can't wait too long awkwardly while he is working, so I have to give up. I didn't expect to meet him again today, and my eldest brother quickly helped me unload my bag and let me get on the bus.

There are three other workmates with Big Brother, all of whom should be Sichuanese. They are very curious about my story and admire my experience. They only went to the construction site not far ahead, but they specially drove a few kilometers for me and sent me directly to Bagai Township. Bagai Township is surrounded by mountains, surrounded by green hills on three sides and snow walls on one side, and a stream of water passes by lightly. There are many grocery stores in the village. They parked their cars in front of a cheap inn that they often come to. I was moved, and I kept buying supplies to prepare for the next more difficult road section.

there is no network signal in bagai township, only 2G, and the voltage here seems to be very low, even with a fast charging plug, charging is extremely slow. When people in the city are used to brushing this brush every day, the time here has been stuck in the 199s, and the pace of local life is also very slow, so slow that only a few fetuses can chew and grow in their lives. TV in the mountains is the most expensive luxury and a precious channel to understand the outside world. Rob's Cabin must be recommended. When the drinks in Yigong Tea Farm and Cunyi are sold for five yuan a bottle, the price here is still three yuan, which is too conscience.

out of bagai township, dirt roads are coming. The dirt road to Zhongyu Township can be classified as National Highway 219 unlike the title of "New Passage into Tibet" in Bingchacha, where it is at least qualified to be renovated and widened. Because it is not the main route into Tibet, it will not be improved at least in recent years. The gravel road is only painful to walk on. Even on Daping Road, the speed has dropped to more than three kilometers per hour, and there are countless landslides. It must be extremely dangerous to come here in the rainy season. Compared with the quicksand in Bingchacha, the road here is ignored. After going deep into the Yigong Zangbo Canyon, the scenery is good, and the snow-capped mountains within reach are just enough to look up at once.

After walking on the dirt road, I finally saw the milestone again. Based on this, I infer that Bagai Township is located at K967.5, and it is more than four kilometers ahead. There is a cool stream beside the road at K972 to get water. Keep going. At K976.9, people keep reminding me not to take the wrong fork in the road. Here, there are two roads, up and down. Going down is the dead end to Longbu Village, and going up is the right way to Naqu. In fact, signs have been set up at the intersection, but they are too small to be ignored.

When you start to climb a hill up the slope, the altitude should be only over 3,. When you get to the pass, you will encounter a fork in the road. Turn right and go up to the road leading to Kari Village. You just started walking this road, and only after climbing a corner can you correct your mistakes in time when you see an off-road vehicle going straight. When climbing the hill, the sun is thirsty. Who wants to hear the sound of nature trickling down from the mountain with the sound of tractors? When the song flows to the side, it seems to meet a pillar and make a roundabout smile, and then it flows melodiously downstream. This sound is much cooler than the iced drinks in the city.

There is a log cabin beside the road of K984.7, beside which there is not only a stream but also a small piece of green land. It is a suitable place for camping, because it is still early to choose to move on. After several kilometers of gravel intestines at the foot of the mountain, I met another spacious grass slope. It will be late, and a place where I met someone in front of my driver's mouth twice must not be able to walk, so I settled down.

Zhongyu Township

April 26, 221

Original link: Sugiyama Road

A night of rain woke everything up, and I couldn't sleep. I lay down until dawn, exhausted and set out in the sleepy feeling that the mountains and clouds could not be dissolved. After walking for more than an hour, an abrupt two-story building stands at the corner of the road. This is the Bagai Tourist Service Center (S33K992.8). The neatness of the building is out of place with the tattered dirt road in front of it. This should be what the driver said. If you tried your best to get here yesterday, you wouldn't have experienced the mess all night.

The bad dirt road gradually wears away the interest in enjoying the scenery. So what if there are more snow-capped mountains and graceful trees? You have to pay close attention to the road under your feet, and you have already stumbled for several times. I dare not think that a mistake will lead to the abandonment of the whole journey. What should come will come, but this time it's finally a good turn.

I can see the trace of sulfur by the river in the distance, and the legendary hot spring (S33K998.5) is ahead. I can't be wrong, but I caught it. I immediately unpacked my bag, spread my wet tent in the sun, and tied it to the river with a flute and a drink. The hot springs here are smaller than the Ming village, and there are only two springs suitable for soaking. The depth of 2 or 3 centimeters is only enough for soaking feet, but it is already a blessing and comfort for feet deep in A nose. Because there is no parking space in this area, a few motorists can only look at me sighing, which is the exclusive treatment for hikers.

The farther ahead, the milestone was not seen after K13, and the population began to increase, not the village, but the exploration and construction workers. After an uphill journey, I met the endless peach blossoms in the snowy mountains. When I touched the scenery, a construction site eldest brother parked his car beside him and got on the bus again, but at this time it was very close to Zhongyu Township. Just like Bagai Township, Zhongyu is also very mini. Several restaurants, canteens, two-story buildings of the township government and a primary school make up most of it. The roads in the village are muddy, and the trouser legs that have just been washed in the hot springs are covered with mud. However, although this place is small, the most gratifying thing after a few days is to finally go to a place with a net and relax.

Going on is the climbing road leading to Jiali County. According to the driver who took my car just now, the highest altitude is nearly 5,2, so you need to be prepared for warmth. At present, the road from Zhongyu Township to Jiali is being overhauled, because there are already four sections of asphalt roads contracted by different companies, of which the longest section is more than 5 kilometers, and the rest have also been crushed into gravel roads, which will be much easier than Bagai to Zhongyu. The only disadvantage of this section of road is that there is no supply for more than 11 kilometers, but there are many streams, so it is necessary to prepare more dry food to reach Naqu before May Day.