Tunpu Clothing in Anshun Tunpu Culture

People compare Tun Bu Village in Anshun area to a "white cultural island in a green ocean". "Solitude" refers to its uniqueness: extremely melodious language, stone buildings with great charm in the south of the Yangtze River, colorful folk activities, folk dramas of "living fossils", and so on. Among them, the costumes that reveal the legacy of the Ming Dynasty have a strong visual impact on the newcomers to Anshun.

Clothing is a cultural carrier. Different ethnic costumes reflect their own aesthetic taste, ideological pursuit and cultural accumulation. Tunpu people's clothes are mainly blue and blue, which can not but be regarded as a narrative of their attachment to their ancestors from the Yangtze River.

Tunpu men's wear is mainly short-breasted and long-sleeved. The double-breasted coat is buckled from this, commonly known as "three pockets", which is named after the right upper chest has a pocket and two hems. Double-breasted jackets are usually made of green, blue and white cloth with 5 or 7 buttons nailed. When wearing a gown, wear Abao green cloth handkerchief or wool handkerchief, and tie a green cloth belt around your waist. The waist and legs of these trousers are very wide. If you tie your legs to your waist, you can hold 100 kilograms of grain, which is cool and practical.

Wear sandals or cloth shoes and short clothes in summer; In winter, I wear robes and leather shoes. These long spikes are similar to combat boots, commonly known as "combat boots". This kind of "combat shoes" not only has the function of keeping warm, but also has the function of anti-skid, so it is an indispensable practical thing in the rainy mountainous area of Guizhou in winter. Wearing these boots, Tunpu people look mighty and full of energy. As a folk song goes, "Wear leather shoes on your feet and walk like the wind." Go south and cross the north, and monsters will avoid it. "

Tunpu people always like to wear straw hats when they go out to do business. This straw hat is made of white wheat straw, which is connected one by one by a woman, braided into a long braid and sewed one by one with a needle and thread. Exquisite straw hats are the display of women's ingenuity and the sustenance of their deep love. Therefore, the straw hat is not only an appliance for rain and sun protection, but also a token of love. It is no wonder that when men sing folk songs, they will sing such a heartfelt voice: "Wearing a straw hat to catch up with the show is like drinking honey."

Tunpu elders wear felt hats or Bao Qing cloth handkerchiefs, long gowns without belts, cloth shoes and long bamboo poles to light cigarettes. Some bellies are hung with "belly-wrapped" coins sewn from cowhide. Felt hats, like those worn by men in Jiangnan water towns, are generally made of wool or cashmere. Once the old people wear felt hats, they will never wash them once in their lives and wear them on their heads all year round. Therefore, this felt hat is always shiny, as if it had been painted.

Exquisite tobacco stems are the pets of old people. Walking down the street with a long cigarette rod is a sign of blessing. A tobacco rod about 1.2m long is made of bamboo with dense bamboo joints, and the more bamboo joints, the denser the better. Wrap the bamboo roots into tubes with twine or copper wire netting, and wipe the tobacco stems with tung oil frequently, so that the long tobacco stems are black and red and shiny, and the tips are often eye-catching. Ornaments such as ancient coins or carved walnut products decorated with metal chains should be hung on the tobacco rod, which not only has a decorative effect, but also facilitates hanging the tobacco rod on the indoor wall or walking by hand. A good cigarette rod is a unique handicraft. When you witness the old people in Tunpu drooling with cigarette sticks in their mouths, and they are crazy about smoking, and listen to them telling the story of their ancestors' "moving north and south" in a puff of smoke, you really have a special taste in your heart.

The clothing characteristics of Tunpu people are mainly manifested in women's clothing and dressing. Tunpu women have always maintained the legacy of the Ming Dynasty, such as long sleeves, robes, pointed shoes, etc., and they have been truthfully described in many historical books.

Notes in "The Folk Customs of Anshun Mansion": "Tunjun Fort was all moved to the north by Hongwu. The woman tied her hair with a silver rope, which was divided into three strands and had a big ring, all of which were Fengyang Hanfu. "

"Anping County Records Folk Customs" records: "Women wear Tsing Yi to drink black tea, wear fake horns, and tie them with silver or copper, so they are called fake horns and phoenix heads. If a woman is unmarried, she will tie a red belt on her head. If you are married, change to leucorrhea. Men are good at trade, women don't bind their feet, and all the work is done by women. "

"Pingba County Records and People's Livelihood Records" records: "Women wear Fengyang makeup." "It is to make the hair storage disc into a bun at the back of the head and use keratin, silver and other hairpins."

Looking at women's clothing in Tun Bu Village today, although young girls have lost their unique antique cloth style in pursuit of fashion, once they get married, the surrounding environment makes them return to the traditional clothing style. Wearing blue or blue or purple or pink or green or white clothes is a kind of "silk headband" with a long silk sash and beautiful lace on the cuffs and skirts. Long hair is tied into a ponytail-woven hair net, with a silver hairpin, a silver bracelet on the wrist, silver and jade earrings hanging on the ears, pointed embroidered shoes on the feet and a white cloth belt on the forehead. Nowadays, a square headscarf and a ribbon black waist are added to the dress.

The Han nationality is a nation that is good at absorbing the strengths of others. With the changes of the times, it evolved from the costumes of other nationalities such as "Khufu" and "Fu Man" on the original costumes of the Tang Dynasty. Women in Tunpu just don't change their ancestral system and wear wide robes and big sleeves. In the past years, women in Tunpu also showed a kind of freedom from customs and traditions. When the haze of feudal ethics enveloped the land of China, women took "three-inch golden lotus" as their abnormal pursuit of beauty, and "foot-binding" made many women cry bitterly. Tunpu people, on the other hand, are against customs. They don't take small feet as beauty, let them be natural and enjoy themselves. Although it is regarded as anti-fashion and despised as "bigfoot", it provides great convenience for them to engage in complicated housework and farm work under the special background of constant war and men going to war.

Speaking of "bigfoot", there is an interesting legend among Tunpu people. During the Hongwu period of the Ming Dynasty, the state affairs were settled and the world was at peace. On the Lantern Festival one year, the Imperial Capital put on lanterns, which was very lively. Ma Huanghou, the original wife of Zhu Yuanzhang, was attracted by people's joyful atmosphere and quietly left the palace with several maids and eunuchs to watch lanterns. The lights were bright and the weather was colorful all the way. I saw a queen ecstatic, inadvertently carried away, revealing a pair of big feet. I exclaimed, causing tourists to watch. Embarrassed and disappointed, Ma Huanghou returned to the palace and lost his temper with Zhu Yuanzhang. Zhu Yuanzhang smiled without a word. Later, he had a pair of zongzi-like shoes made for Ma Huanghou. After Ma Huanghou put it on, the long skirt caught her big feet, but revealed a pair of upturned sharp corners. Since then, the "pointed embroidered shoes" worn by the queen have been imitated by Tunpu people from generation to generation. Although this legend is a bit far-fetched, we can see that Tunpu people are deeply attached to their homeland when we think that Tunpu women don't forget their ancestral headdresses.

Producing pointed embroidered shoes is an important event for women in Tunpu. Since I was a teenager, I will learn embroidery under the guidance of my mother, and I can embroider dozens of pairs of shoes when I get married. Most of the patterns used are common crop flowers and traditional patterns, such as lotus, melon flower, peony, pomegranate, red plum, butterfly, fish, magpie and phoenix. Most of the patterns are "double phoenix contending", "magpie climbing branches", "double plum blooming" and "rich peony" symbolizing good luck and happiness. These patterns not only reflect their aesthetic taste, but also convey their ideological pursuit. Such as pomegranate, butterfly and fish, magpie and phoenix, peony and so on. Shoes embroidered according to these patterns should use more than a dozen colored silk threads, pay attention to the harmony of color matching and patterns, and give people a sense of beauty. In June, when farm work is not too busy, Tunpu girls invited three or five groups to "sit in June" embroidery at Zouma Corner. Although the weather is hot, they have pinned their good wishes, just as a folk song says, "Although June is a sunny day, Xiulou is a good spring. Embroider a magpie and fly out. When can I see my lang? "

Tunpu girls not only embroidered shoes, but also embroidered hat flowers, pillowcase flowers, back fan flowers and other clothing patterns. Most of these clothing patterns are natural creatures such as flowers, birds, fish and insects. They embroider these creatures vividly, but at the same time, they have a different interest. The girl embroidered more than 100 flowers in her life. On the wedding day, they gathered at the groom's house to show their talents in front of the villagers. A large number of embroidered products with good quality will naturally be praised by everyone. That's the best evaluation for girls. Because these embroideries have devoted the girls' hard work and pinned their yearning for beauty. Just like the song in their hearts: "Staying up all night embroidering pillows, embroidering a picture of Yuanyang playing in the water." One day, sleeping with a pillow is like lying in a cloud. "

Every time I go to a temple fair and visit relatives and friends, Tunpu women will dress up seriously. Numerous robes, big sleeves and embroidered shoes gather together, which can be said to be a unique fashion model performance and a silent embroidery competition. Exquisite workmanship and colorful and vivid embroidery make people admire the ingenuity of Tunpu women. At this time, people seem to see a painting of folk customs of the Ming Dynasty flying in Tun Bu Village.

Older Tunpu women are called "Taipo", and their clothes are relatively simple, mostly cyan. Its headdress is relatively simple. The hair is tied into a bun at the back of the head, covered with a ponytail woven hair net, inserted with a simple hairpin, and wrapped with a green gauze handkerchief or green cloth. The leader of a long gown with big sleeves is embroidered with simple lace, tied with a green cloth belt and waist cloth, and wears pointed embroidered shoes. In winter, the calf is wrapped in leggings to keep out the cold. When these grandmothers go out to catch a temple fair and visit relatives, they hang a yellow cloth satchel on their shoulders, tie a towel folded into a square on their belts and hold a red oiled paper umbrella, and invite them in twos and threes. When we get together, we like to read Buddha or chat. They sang Buddhist scriptures in a low voice and sang the hardships and feelings of life: "Life is like grass on the mountain, and Chun Lv has been in autumn for a long time; Hanging dew like jade, not grass in winter. Buddha also, there is no contact with Tommy in the south! "

A hat is a child's main symbol. From birth to youth, boys should wear small hats, big hats, satin hats and other hats. The flower hat and hood sewn with cloth are tiger heads, which look like "tigers and tigers", and the hat is embroidered with plum blossom, peach blossom or fish and bird patterns. There is a long windproof cloth behind the hood to keep out the cold in winter. The flower caps and wind caps are decorated with jade carvings or silver carvings, with Guanyin bodhisattva in the middle and small bodhisattvas or ornaments engraved with the words "long life and wealth" and "happy life" on both sides. Shaking one's head, the bright spot is shining, as if young life is beating. These auspicious ornaments of the gods place their mother's ardent expectations on their children and pray for the Bodhisattva to bless their children's "long life" and happiness in the future. The little girl is wearing a flowered hat with no brim. A variety of auspicious flowers and plants are embroidered on the brim, and a small braid hangs down from the back of the brim, which is lively and vivid.

Children wear copper or silver necklaces around their necks, and pendants such as a long life lock or a Yu Pei are hung. Simple patterns and words, such as "longevity and wealth", are engraved on locks or Yu Pei. Wear a bracelet made of silver or alloy on your hand. There are several bell stops hanging on the bracelet. When you shake hands, the bell will make a noise. The beating sound of this young life will make this family extremely happy. Children should tie a waist-like "white water bag" on their chests and sew a purse in the middle. It can not only absorb children's saliva to keep clothes clean, but also hold some simple food for children to eat at any time. The "saliva pocket" is made of double-layer or multi-layer cloth and embroidered with patterns such as ginkgo flowers and lotus flowers.

Children will also hang wooden fish-shaped toys or "grinding sticks" similar to noodle sticks on their chests. Holding wooden fish or "grinding stick" in children's mouth is helpful for tooth growth.

Children wear simple clothes, pants and shoes. These little flower shoes were carefully embroidered by my mother when she was a child. They are full of love and life. Flower shoes are embroidered with patterns of fish, birds, dragons and other animals. As a girl, embroidered shoes are a happy and shameful thing. A folk song sang their complicated feelings: "Embroider only magpie plum, and then embroider carp yue longmen;" After wearing it on children's feet, the son will be a master. "

Tunpu clothing is a unique scenery in Tunpu customs. Women's long sleeves, robes, pointed shoes and unique "Fengyangtou" are similar to the Ming Dynasty costumes and hairstyles collected by Nanjing Museum, telling the ancient story of Tunpu people's ancestors' expedition to the south. From those embroideries, we can see the delicate, stretched and smooth style of Jiangnan embroidery, the artistic personality of jumping lines and compact composition, the charm of Jiangnan and the legacy of Ming Dynasty.