Along the Way —— Lu Ge's miyaluo Prose

At the invitation of my son, I went to miyaluo to enjoy the red leaves. Unexpectedly, the red leaves in miyaluo made me feel shocked and surging as a child who grew up in the red leaves area.

I heard about "miyaluo" for a long time and thought it was a place name. I didn't know until I went this time that "miyaluo" is not a place name, at least not in a strict sense, but in Tibetan. If "miyaluo" is translated into Chinese, it means "fun dam". Where is this interesting dam? Li County, Aba Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Sichuan Province. More specifically, this "interesting dam" is located in a ravine dominated by Bipenggou and Gulgou in Lixian County. The main attractions here are red leaves, alpine lakes and snow-capped mountains.

Miyaluo Scenic Area is127km long from east to west and 29km wide from north to south, covering an area of 3688km2, which is more than 180 times larger than Beijing Xiangshan Hongye Scenic Area. It is the largest and most magnificent scenic spot discovered and developed in China.

Bipenggou is one of the main scenic spots of miyaluo Hongye, which is 22 1km away from Chengdu and 20km away from Lixian. The scenic spot is 45 kilometers long, 4 kilometers wide and covers an area of 180 square kilometers.

Because my son doesn't have a long public holiday, he will go to miyaluo to enjoy the red leaves on Friday. It was nearly 6 o'clock in the evening when he arrived at Bipenggoukou.

This is a ditch. I stayed at Bipeng Goukou Hotel and heard the sound of running water in the river ditch outside. I put down my backpack and went outside for a walk. The whole ditch bottom is less than 100 meter wide, and most hotels are built by the river. A small river with a width less than 10 meter flows down from the right bank of the foot of the mountain and collides with the hidden stones in the river ditch, generating a "rumbling" sound. On both sides of the river are steep hillside woodlands, with few tall trees, mostly low shrubs. Thick gray fog clings to the mountainside. Under the fog, you can see the red leaf clouds shining sporadically in the green mountains. Holding my head high at the top of the mountain, I saw a sunset glow burning on the cliff at the top of the mountain. The top of the mountain is bright and the ravine is dark, which makes the collision between the river and the reef more and more shocking. Endless rumble and wet night wind, wrapped in a windbreaker, I feel chilly and straight into my bones, a little worried. The red leaves on the mountain can make us happy. Are you here?

This season is the tourist season in miyaluo. In order to avoid crowding and enter the mountain early, at 8 o'clock the next morning, we walked 2 kilometers to queue up in front of Bipenggou Mountain. We thought we were the first, but there was a long queue in front of the gate of Fushan, but it was orderly. We quickly entered the scenic spot and got on the sightseeing bus, a tourist bound for the Shanghai sub-scenic spot.

After about 5 kilometers of mountain road, the slope gradually became steeper and steeper, and then it was steep and steep. At the entrance of the mountain gate, the altitude display on the mobile phone shows that the entrance is 2 100 meters above sea level, which has risen to 2800 meters in a short distance. At this time, sightseeing bus has crossed the foggy valley in Shan Lan and entered a steeper mountain area. Seen from the side, the dense fog is steaming and rolling in the valley under our feet. Looking around, the sky in front of me suddenly widened. I saw that the bushes scattered on the mountain in front were covered with golden armor, some were golden, some were orange, and some were orange red, smearing a dense mountain. Although the mountain is high, it has not been reflected by sunrise, but the colorful forest on the hillside sets off the ravine like the sun. Strolling in the misty forest, the clouds are thick and hazy, the streams are curling, the red, orange, yellow and green are burning, and the dense jungle is colorful. Although the crawling speed of sightseeing bus is very slow, the colorful forest on the slope makes people linger.

The morning sun shines on the top of Siguniang Mountain behind Chongshan Mountain, and birds are singing in the forest. People who are frightened by the steep and steep hillside, silent people, become active at this time because of the sudden appearance of gradient color. They only saw the clouds surging in streams and gullies, the ice peaks on the mountains reflected the sun's rays, the red leaves swept through Qian Shan, and the beautiful scenery rolling in from Wan Lihong made people sigh and admire, and the troubles when they entered the mountains were comforted at this moment.

Further up, the terrain becomes much flatter, but the red leaves gradually decrease. At this time, there are more "Haizi" on the roadside. A "Haizi" is wider, brighter and more attractive than a "Haizi". Haizi is a respectful name for the lake by Tibetans. Most Tibetans live in mountainous areas. For Tibetans, water is life, which is very precious and admirable. It is part of the sea, so Tibetans respectfully call this lake "Haizi".

Suddenly, on both sides of the road ahead, we were surprised by the crimson color along the stream. When the bus arrived, we saw a billboard on the side of the road that said "Red Stone Beach". Crimson stones are large and small, like agates embedded in ravines and thorns. The clear stream passes through the stone crevices covered with red leaves. Shrubs grow on both sides of the gully. Most of the leaves have left the branches, but the red leaves still on the branches are as thin as cicada wings and as red as blood, and light particles can leak out in the sun. According to the mobile phone, the altitude here has reached 3000 meters.

In an exclamation, sightseeing bus reached the finish line, Shanghaizi. After getting off the bus, I saw the forest around the parking lot wrapped in silver, the red leaves disappeared, the colorful forest disappeared, the mountain birds grounded and the stream was silent. We have completely entered the world of snowy areas. Looking at the silvery white on the ground, I know what the coolness at the foot of the mountain was like last night, and it also made me feel a little lost. I originally came to see the red leaves of Panziyang Lake in Shanghai, but in the end it was snow. Looking at the mobile phone display, we have climbed to a height of more than 3600 meters. Ask the driver in sightseeing bus: "How many times have we turned from the foot of the mountain to the end of the mountain?" The driver told me, "no more, no less, 30 sharp."

Although I didn't see amazing red leaves on the way up the mountain, I didn't expect that the snow scene at the top of Bipenggou was so enchanting.

People say that "snow melting is colder than snow", but it is not at the top of Bipenggou Mountain. Although the altitude is high and the snow is heavy (flat snow 10 cm), it is not so cold. Perhaps the sun has shone on the half slope of the hillside on the right bank of Shanghai.

In order to save energy, we took a battery car from Shanghai parking lot and went straight to Panyang Lake.

It's not far, about 6 kilometers, but the road is very narrow. The battery car needs to find the right way to get on the wrong bus, but this 6-kilometer journey makes tourists feel like walking through a fairy tale world. Both sides of the road are covered with thick snow, and the sky above the road is covered with cloisters because of the mutual climbing of branches on both sides of the road. The green leaves and red leaves on the tree are gone, replaced by scattered snow branches and crystal ice petals. I think, if the scenic spot can transform the front of the battery car into a cartoon shape, and the driver can wear Santa Claus's costume, how should tourists feel when traveling in this short ice palace snow gallery?

Water is the spirit of mountains and lake is the spirit of scenery, which is why I want to see the red leaf scenery of Panyang Lake.

According to the signs on the observation deck, Panyang Lake is the largest lake in Bipenggou, with an altitude of 3,676 meters, a water accumulation area of more than 500 mu and a water depth of 10 meter. Although the lake is small, it is a typical alpine lake with clear and transparent water. Due to the erosion and siltation of the upstream stream, a half-moon beach extends into the lake at the upstream of the lake, and the half-moon beach is closely embedded with the half-moon notch of the lake. That golden beach has become an excellent place for tourists to take photos and play.

The lake is covered with snow and bushes, red leaves stand proudly on the snow, and their red tongues are reflected on the clean lake, so Panyang Lake has a smile and a look back. The lake is a dense forest, covered with snow, wandering among the trees, just like a jade pond in the heavenly palace. The forest is dominated by shrubs, with tall trees such as cypress and Pinus tabulaeformis. Several ancient trees have been cut off, revealing scary stubble. Look more. The irregular stubble on the snowfield is somewhat artistic. Maybe those old trees that were cut down were masterpieces of snowstorms in previous years?

Along the forest all the way up to the mountainside, at an altitude of about 4200 meters, there are no more trees, not even a plant, all bare rocks and white snow on the cliff. Seen from a distance, it is one of the four main peaks around 6000.

The silver-white main peak of Siguniang Mountain goes straight into the blue sky, and the tall and handsome body is reflected in Panyang Lake, which makes people ecstatic. Could it be that the four girls' white gauze dresses were put in Panyang Lake, or that Panyang Lake was washing the four girls' white gauze dresses? ...

Although I didn't see the magnificent scene of red leaves, blue sky and white clouds by Pan Yang Lake, the forests, snow scenes and ice peaks that Panyang Lake and Panyang Lake reflect each other are also rare attractions to visit Bipenggou.

I still don't feel happy after swimming in Bipenggou. Back to Putou Township near the 3 17 National Road outside the ditch, the store said: There was too much rain this year, the red leaves in Bipenggou were not neat enough, and the tree hanging time was not long. If you want to see the neat red leaves, maybe the red leaves in Gulgou are ok these days. So, the next morning, we went to the ancient town of Gul.

Gulgou is more than 0/0 kilometers away from Putou Township, located in the upper reaches of Zagunao River and 30 kilometers away from the northwest of Lixian County. It is adjacent to Zagunao Town in the east, Gabi Township in the west, Putou Township in the south and Meng Xiang Township in the north.

The "Zhagunao" mentioned here is a homonym of "Zhaxilang" in Tibetan, which means "auspicious place". Place names come from the ancient Western Han Dynasty. Zagunao River is a tributary of Minjiang River, which was called Tuoshui in ancient times (if it overflows from the river, it is called Tuoshui, hence the name Tuoshui). Because the Tuoshui River passes through Zagunao Town, it is also called "Zagunao River".

Gulgou River is a tributary valley of Zagunao River. Its terrain is relatively open, and the hillside is much slower than Bipenggou. It is the main production base of vegetables in autumn and off-season in Chengdu. At the same time, there are natural hot mineral springs for bathing, drinking and treatment. Hot springs are known as "Fairy Mountain Yaochi and Lingshui Shenquan", but we didn't have time to feel the happiness of "soaking" this time. Instead, follow the instructions of the local people and follow the Gulgou River.

Shortly after the trip, I saw a ridge of red leaves on the hillside on both sides of the canyon. Although the orange-red leaves are not very dazzling, they are dazzling in the green mountains and forests, but they show their other elegant charm.

The red leaf viewing area in Gulgou has not yet been developed, and the road conditions along the river are not very good, which basically belongs to the width of the village road. There are many stone slag sections, and the car dealership is slow, but this is exactly where I want to see flowers, which can make my son feel happy, and I have not been able to feast my eyes like me.

As the terrain of the valley narrows, the red leaves on both sides of the valley gradually widen, neat and gorgeous, and the red leaves on the edge of the grain field are as red as blood. Going deeper into the canyon, red leaves, deep or shallow or yellow or red, drift and dye the mountains and plains on both sides of the valley. The ridge of red leaves passes by the car, and the road is covered with red leaves. Although the weather is not as sunny as yesterday, it is still sunny with red leaves all over the mountain. Tibetan farmhouses with wide bottoms and narrow roofs can be seen faintly in the red forest. Poultry strolled leisurely in front of and behind the house. Golden corn sticks stand on the rafters in front of the door or in the corner of the house, comparable to the red leaf forest. The smoke from the kitchen rises at the top of the house, and the clear river carries the red water drops of the Gurgu River next to it ... A comfortable, gentle and wonderful picture of Shan Ye, which shows the inside story of "miscellaneous brain".

Perhaps it is precisely because Gulgou has not carried out large-scale commercial development that the original ecological natural situation of Gulgou has been maintained, and the red leaves all over the mountains are gentle and elegant, and the natural charm has been highlighted. If the red leaves in Bipenggou are dazzling, then I want to say that the red leaves in Gulgou are cool, quiet and more human.

The clear Gulgou River flows eastward with the red leaves of Gulgou Mountain, into the miscellaneous valley brain, into the Minjiang River, into the Yangtze River and into the sea. Is she going to bring the "miscellaneous brain" to a wider land?

On the way back to Chengdu, we went to Gan Bao Tibetan Village and Taoping Village.

Starting from Gulgou, take the 3 17 National Road to Chengdu, about 20 kilometers away from the county seat of Manager County, and you will see a stone tower-shaped watchtower standing on the ridge, and a white mosaic like the word "Wu" jumps into your eyes. At the foot of the mountain is the Tibetan village in Gan Bao.

Ganbaozhai is a Tibetan village in Gan Bao Township, Lixian County, and it is a typical big stockade where Jiarong Tibetans live in compact communities. "Gambao", Tibetan "hillside stockade". Wandering in Tibetan villages near mountains and rivers, smelling the faint smell of frankincense and cow dung in the streets and lanes, people feel the strong flavor of Tibetan life. We can learn about Tibetan culture from some sculptures and stone carvings, and understand why most Tibetan houses are "hundred households" and why they are built on raised ridges or mountain passes.

From Ganbaozhai, drive about16km to Chengdu, and you will arrive at Tao Ping * Village.

Taoping Village is located in Taopingxiang, on the bank of Zagunao River. According to the inscription in the parking lot, Tao Ping Village is the best preserved building complex in the world, and the watchtowers and houses here are still inhabited.

When we wandered in this rhyme building complex, we deeply felt the beauty of this village. Here, no matter how hot the weather is, we won't feel very hot, because in addition to the cool wind blowing from the Zagunao River near the village, there are small rivers and streams flowing in the village. The air here is very refreshing, because the village has a perfect and reasonable underground pipe network and naturally inclined terrain; It won't be too cold in winter here, because all the buildings are thick walls made of stone and mud, with good turning walls and Liang Yu interior with log structure; The streets here are very flat, because there is a stockade that looks like a maze, but there are small streets in the middle of each street that can lead to another street; It's safe here, because the stone watchtower on the hillside behind the stockade overlooks the panoramic view of the stockade and any street view in the stockade, and there is a special person on duty in the watchtower.

Taoping Village is praised by Chinese and foreign scholars as "the living fossil of clan architecture art" and "the sacred local castle".

You will feel that there is no difference between Tibetan areas and Tibetan villages, whether it is building houses or building watchtowers. However, when you swim through these two villages, you will feel different. This different feeling is folk custom.

Ganbaozhai: Walking in Ganbaozhai, you will feel that the Tibetan people's living customs and social interaction are somewhat overbearing and wild, such as the decoration of Tibetan houses and shops, home furnishings, etc. For example, you chat up Tibetans or ask for directions, for example, you ask for prices or bargain at the booth of Tibetan vendors, for example, you choose a certain commodity, etc. You will find it difficult to communicate with Tibetans from these details.

Tao Pingcun: On the surface, the biggest difference between ethnic and Tibetan folk customs is clothing. At first glance, Tibetans wear more sleeves and tie a cloth bag around their waist, while * people, like Han people, have the same sleeves with colorful cloth clips embroidered on them. Looking closely, Tibetan men's and women's costumes are mostly black with dark blue intervals, while ethnic minority costumes are mostly white with dark blue intervals; Tibetan women wrap their heads with black cloth, ethnic minority women with blue cloth, and some women have a pile of tile-shaped green cloth on their heads, which is wrapped in a bun with braids.

At first glance, they are all appearances, but the internal difference lies in the social interaction of the people. As far as a tourist is concerned, as a Han nationality, when you stroll in Taoping Village, you will feel relaxed, happy, calm and harmonious when you contact, communicate, buy and sell with people, which is the fundamental difference between people and Tibetans.

No matter from curiosity or experience, Tibetan areas and Tibetan villages are worth visiting. Some people say that "traveling is going from a place where you are tired of staying to a place where others are tired of staying". Yes, only when you have swam, seen and experienced will you know the beauty of your place and discover the beauty of other places.