Development of Beijing Opera Costume

[Coat]: Coat is one of the internal divisions of Beijing Opera costumes, and it exists to create roles for actors. From the technical function, it is management, mixing, necktie, so-called clothing management and maintenance, responsible for the service and dress of actors and the collocation of special roles in performances. Coats have strong skills in management, as well as the name recognition and shaping of different role clothing types. For this reason, the branch of clothing plays a guarantee role in the performance, and plays its own scope and characteristics in skill handling, thus achieving the expected effect and completing the art, and exerting the wisdom and talent of raising funds.

(1) Scope and function: The names of the clothes in the coat include: python, improved python, flag python, official clothes, improved official clothes, military school uniforms, judge clothes, open clothes, crane clothes, bagua clothes, cassock clothes, monk clothes, pleated clothes, palace clothes and ancient clothes.

The names of various clothes in coats have a certain range in use. For example, people who represent the status of court emperors, generals and famous officials generally wear pythons, and local officials wear official clothes, but pythons and official clothes belong to court clothes and formal attire. The emperors are Liu Xiu in Going to the Tiantai and Emperor Taizong in Jinshui Bridge. As a prince, Zhao, who had the Yuanmen beheaded, Lian Po as the general, Lin Xiangru as the prime minister, and other court officials, who could be courtiers, had to wear pythons when they saw the emperor. In addition, they were called "bandits" by the imperial court in various historical periods and dared to challenge the imperial court. They dare to take the world by storm. They dare to wear python clothes and call themselves emperors or kings. Such as: Chao Gai, Song Jiang, etc.

Explain that local officials' magistrate and county magistrate can wear official clothes. There is a line "Seven Officials in front of the door" on the stage, which also shows that people who are equivalent to this identity are wearing official uniforms, such as the magistrate in Seven Officials of Sesame, Pan Bizheng and Liu Bingyi in Yu Tang Chun, etc.

The common clothes used by emperors and officials and gentlemen in their leisure time are: clothes, pants and pleats. For example, Liu Xiu in "Going to the Roof" and Zhao Kuangyin in "Cutting the Yellow Robe" wear a hat. Jin Chong of Bibotan, Dong, Ding Wei of Bibotan and Ding Wei of The Fisherman Killed the Family also wear clothes. Another example is the Tang King in Lock Five Dragons, and Lian Po and Lin Xiangru in General Hehe all took off their hats.

In order to mold female court officials, the main costumes of queens and concubines are: female pythons, female official uniforms, palace uniforms and so on. For example, Hou Li in "Playing the Dragon Robe", She Taijun in "Playing Meng Liang" and Li Yanfei in "Great Country Bao" all wear pythons; Liu Yingchun in Fan Jiangguan is wearing official clothes; Another example is Yang Guifei in Drunken Maids, and the queen in Going to the Roof is wearing a palace costume.

The clothes that mainly portray women's wives, ladies, maids and poor women are: gowns, pleats, skirts, trousers, coats and so on. Ladies are the main costumes of ladies and gentlemen, such as Mrs. Jin and Miss Wang in Bibotan, Miss Xiang Fu in the hall where spring grass rushes, and Miss Wang in the water. There are two styles of female pleats in Danhang, one is worn by Lao Dan, and the other is worn by Qingyi. There are two kinds of female pleats worn in Tsing Yi: floral pleats and plain pleats. Women's pleats are mostly worn by women, mainly as shirts when wearing clothes. Plain pleats, also known as Tsing Yi pleats or green pleats, are specially worn by poor middle-aged women, such as Qin Xianglian in Qin Xianglian, Wang Baochuan in Wujiapo and Liu Yingchun in Fenhe Bay. Most of the female pleats are worn by elderly women from poor families, such as Kang in Jin Fenghua, How in Encounter and Qing Feng Ting. Skirts, trousers and coats are divided into two categories: flowers and plain colors. They can be worn as skirt coats or trousers coats. The wearers of the culottes are mostly well-off ladies, such as the eldest and second ladies in Three Reluctances and the eldest sister-in-law in Peacock Flying Southeast. Ku-coat can depict two characters, one is Sun Yujiao in Picking up Jade Bracelet, the other is Nian Jinyu Nu in Bean Juice, the other is the maid who follows Wang Baochuan in Three Claps, and the other is the maid who follows Nian Jinyu Nu in Beating Lovers.

In order to create another novel costume style for women, ancient costumes broke through the suitcase system of traditional Beijing opera costumes and the stylization of performances. Ancient costume is an innovative work of Peking Opera master Mr. Mei Lanfang when planning to rehearse Flowers Falling from the Sky. Mr. Mei borrowed fairy costumes from ancient paintings, changed the traditional costume style, and formed Mei's ancient costume series, which became the main costume of women in the new historical drama.

In the coat trade, in addition to the main names and uses mentioned above, there are many other accessories and decorations used to shape the clothes of various characters. It can distinguish people with different identities and different occasions from wearing the same dress, such as cloak, rice list, four-happiness belt, silk tapestry, waist towel and so on. , can be matched with each other, change the character image. In the coat line, there are representatives in people's minds, as well as other special clothes in the luggage system, such as Yu Ji in Farewell My Concubine, Xiao Taihou and Princess in Shiro Visiting Mother, which are rarely worn by other characters.

(2) Characteristics of coat trade: According to the scope and function of coat trade, it can be clearly seen that most of her characters are civil servants, old ladies, ladies, maids and other categories. In addition, from the perspective of clothing style, there is a more prominent feature, that is, python, purse, pleat, veil, palace dress and gossip dress.

[Ambiguity]: According to the division of labor of coat trade, it naturally forms the ambit of ambivalence. They have similarities in technical treatment, but there are great differences in other aspects. Its naming scope, functions and characteristics are as follows.

(1) Scope and function The clothing names of the second clothing include: thin, improved thin, arrow clothing (including dragon arrow clothing, flower arrow clothing, plain satin arrow clothing and cloth arrow clothing), mandarin jacket (including dragon coat, yellow satin coat and shovel coat), hugging clothing (including flowers and plain clothes) and boasting clothing (including flowers and plain clothes).

Second, the scope of use of various kinds of clothing in the clothing category, such as: rely on, is the armor used by marshals and generals to guide or defend themselves before going out to war. On the stage of Peking Opera, these characters need to wear all the clothes, such as Yue Fei, Gao Chong and Zhang Kui in Pullman, Zhao Yun and Cao Bajiang in Changbanpo. According to the needs of plot development, a character may not stick to a compromise or a scene in the whole play. This non-stick plot can express that a character's environment has changed, such as losing his armor after defeat, such as He Tianlong in Yandang Mountain and Yang Jiye in Touching the Monument, and Yu Hong in the bamboo forest. The situation of each character is different, and its clothing will change accordingly.

Improvement depends on, as the name implies, improvement. On the stage of Beijing opera, this kind of clothing style does not lose its general demeanor. Secondly, it lightens the performance burden of the actors and enhances the technical difficulty of the performance. The improvement depends on a great initiative of Shanghai School, which has become the light armor of male and female military commanders on the stage of Peking Opera and the main costume of military commanders in newly compiled historical dramas, such as Hu in Burning.

Wrigley clothing: In the second kind of clothing, Wrigley clothing has a high usage rate and a wide range of characters, from emperors to the poor. The reason why it shows a wide range of characters is mainly because it uses a variety of accessories to match each other and changes the images of different types of characters. For example, when riding a horse, the emperor should wear a dragon arrow suit with a big belt around his waist, and wear a yellow dragon or black dragon jacket shoulder to shoulder. For example, heroes and fugitives generally wear colorful arrow suits and tapestries, all of which are big belts, such as Pu Tiandiao and Wu Tianqi in Evil Tiger Village, and Yang Xiong and Shi Xiu in Stealing Chicken wear melanin arrow suits and big belts. The flag tag and Zhong Jun can wear a flower arrow suit, a big belt and a flower coat, such as the flag tag in Pan Hong Night. A captain of Famen Temple and Yili Soufu was wearing a plain satin arrow coat, a yellow jacket and shoulders. Executioners and thugs can wear plain satin arrow clothes, big belts, yellow jackets and epaulettes; The chief, Xiecha, Baozi, night watchman and coachman all wear blue-step arrow clothes, which are big belts (Baozi and night watchman can cover the pawns, such as Shangyi in the street, Yezhulin and Xueba).

Embroidered clothing: it is the main clothing for shaping heroes, chivalrous men, people with rank, convenient walking and flexible movements. Martial arts actors on the stage of Peking Opera often wear them, such as Yan Qing in Sanda Zhujiazhuang, Huang Tianba in Evil Tiger Village, Hua and Xu Shiying in Sunny Building.

Kuafu: It is similar to hugging clothes in use, but its characters are slightly higher than other characters in martial arts and movements, such as Shi Qian in Stealing Chicken, Yang in kowloon cup the Three Thieves and Jiang Ping in Copper Nets.

Pawn column: It is a symbol decorated on the clothing of soldiers of both warring parties, such as Zhujiazhuang Ding and Hu Jiazhuang Zhuangding in Zhujiazhuang of Sanda. Usually, there is only the word chess in the chess column, which indicates the position of chess on the stage.

Tea clothes: usually only used to shape children's images, such as the shepherd boy in The Cowherd and the Weaver Girl, Brother Dong and Sister Chun in Qin Xianglian, etc.

Sleeves: They are mainly worn by shopkeepers, bartenders, guards and muleteers, and they have become the main clothes for ugly behavior, such as the guards in Su San Qi Jie, the muleteers in Song Wu Da Yi Store and Thirteen Sisters.

In addition to the above main names and uses, there are many other accessories and decorations in the clothing industry, such as monk vests, Taoist vests, dart bags, elastic bags, tapestries, large belts and so on. Can be matched with other clothes to change the image of people in different identities and occasions. In the second clothing line, in order to create typical and representative figures, there are other special clothes in the suitcase system, such as monkey back, system clothes and monkey boasting clothes used by the Monkey King in Huaguoshan, and fairy tales' costumes, such as turtle handsome, shrimp handsome and fish refined clothes in the Dragon Palace, beating of the prince's maternal uncle, and scolding by Mu Hong.

(2) The characteristics of Er Yixing: From the scope and function of Er Yixing, it is obvious that most of the characters created by Er Yixing are marshals, generals, rebellious heroes with high martial arts, outlaws and other characters. In addition, from the perspective of clothing styles, there is another obvious feature that the cuffs and trouser legs of clothing are relatively tight. No matter what style of clothing you wear, you should wear a big belt or other belts around your waist. The coat and the second dress are clearly distinguished as the difference between literature and martial arts. Through their respective clothes, it can be clearly seen that they are the concrete embodiment of typology. It is based on the classification of literature and martial arts, and it is also based on the classification of performing arts to shape characters.

Sanyi: This trade, commonly known as the boot box, contains the names and functions of items, mostly boots, shoes and underwear worn by people. The names of goods in this industry can be divided into two categories: one is film, commonly known as soft and hard.

(1) Movies: Water clothes: work clothes provided by actors before makeup, to protect the coat and the second clothes from damage during performances (due to hot weather or excessive sweating of actors).

Fat coat: it is mainly used to shape the figure of different roles, which is similar to shoulder pads, but the fat coat depends on the performance industry and actor conditions. There are usually small fat coats for students (old students, young students, martial arts students), another round shoulder fat coat for martial arts and martial arts actors, followed by folding shoulder fat coats, which are mainly used for copper hammer (Wen Jing) business. Sometimes, according to the needs of the plot, the characters put on fat coats directly on the stage, such as the mule driver and the yellow silly dog in Yuelai Store.

Color pants: Color pants can be roughly divided into three categories, namely red pants, black pants and variegated pants (including white, fragrant, light blue and color, with three elements of embroidery and lace, and two styles of loose legs and tight legs). Red and black trousers are mostly worn by men, while variegated trousers are mostly worn by women except a few minority businesses.

Collar: Because most of the styles of the big clothes and the second clothes are round necks, in order to make the characters look perfect, they don't show their necks when performing. Therefore, an actor should put a collar around his neck before getting dressed.

Big socks: (cloth socks) There are two styles, one is high-waisted big socks, which are specially worn by people who wear blessing shoes and soap shoes, and the other is low-waisted big socks, which are specially designed for women to wear colorful shoes.

(2) Hard type: platform: It is the high waist and platform boots commonly used by male characters in the play. Its thickness depends on the height of the actor or the performance level of the actor. The thickness of the bottom is generally two inches, two inches, five inches, three inches and three inches.

North Korea: This is a kind of high-waist boots specially used in Wenzhou. The sole is one inch thick.

Fu shoes: shoes commonly used by the elderly, with short uppers and an inch thick bottom.

Climbing clouds: commonly used by male immortal figures, the short side and bottom are two inches, two inches and five inches thick.

Soap shoes: soap, for the poor.

Poor foundation: it is a common thing for male martial arts actors.

Colored shoes: Very common for women.

Colorful thin bottom: it is common for female martial arts actors.

There are also some special boots and shoes, such as tiger head boots, fish scale boots, black and white boots, children's boots, monk boots, flag boots and so on.

Sanyi is not as specific as coat and eryi in technical treatment, but some items of Sanyi are generally worn according to the characteristics of coat and eryi, and finally they should be used in a unified, harmonious and reasonable way.

Judging from the present situation of Peking Opera costumes, they and performances have formed a pair of twin brothers. Beijing opera has reached the stage of perfection in art, and its costumes have reached a relatively perfect state. It is extremely difficult to develop Beijing opera, adapt Beijing opera costumes to contemporary aesthetic views and create a new road. After all, Peking Opera costumes serve to create roles for actors, but it is imperative to promote the revolution within Peking Opera from the guests. I remember when rehearsing "The Jade Emperor Hate" in Chinese opera, Li Zigui once asked for costume design and bold ideas, forcing the performance to create new performance vocabulary. That is to say, from the perspective of the beauty of music and dance, the director should seek a breakthrough in style from all directions, so as to by going up one flight of stairs on the basis of the original tradition.