What if the azaleas wither?

Question 1: What should I do with the withered azaleas? Take them off.

In order to maintain the beautiful appearance of azalea trees, it is best to prune too many branches, buds and buds every year (May is the best). When the rhododendron grows to a certain height, take off the terminal buds, control the height and sprout lateral branches. After enucleation, many lateral branches grow spirally. When the lateral branches grow to a certain height, then pick the core. Germinate secondary lateral branches.

Rhododendron has a strong ability to sprout new shoots and long branches, so it should not be allowed to grow wantonly. It is necessary to prune, control and adjust reasonably and maintain a reasonable and beautiful tree shape. There are five pruning methods: core removal, bud stripping, bud wiping, branch thinning and short cutting. Generally, it is enough to wipe buds, twigs and cut short.

Bud wiping is to leave one or two buds on each branch, and the remaining buds should be wiped off, thus reducing the density of branches. Sparse branches-that is, pruned branches that are too dense, slender branches, overlapping branches, crossed branches, and sick branches. Short-cut-that is, cut short the overgrown branches and overgrown branches to make the tree beautiful and improve its ornamental value.

If it is shaped, it will be trimmed into various shapes according to the plant type. The usual shapes are umbrella and pagoda. The lower trunk of the former should have multiple lateral branches, which can extend around. When modeling, use thick lead wire to make an umbrella-shaped skeleton on the basin, then evenly distribute the branches on it and tie them with plastic belts. Bloom will form a big ball. The latter should be pruned from the fixed stem, first shaping the bottom branches, then pruning upward step by step, and finally making the whole plant shape like a tower.

Question 2: What about the fallen leaves of azaleas? My dear friend, your azaleas seem to be dying. If there is a next time, I suggest you find out why it died this time. If the rhododendron is burned first and then dropped, it is because of hypertrophy, plus the hot weather in summer, the roots are rotten. If it is soft, because the soil is airtight, water cannot be discharged in time, but this is rare. It is best to put it on the north window sill for maintenance in summer. Ventilate every day, water with rainwater, precipitated rice soup or fish tank water, and fertilize with liquid fertilizer and water once every half month.

Question 3: The leaves of my azalea are dry and the flowers are withered. What happened?

Question 4: Why did the azaleas stop blooming after they fell? First of all, they are not properly watered. The interval of watering should be determined according to the temperature, light and soil texture of the environment. Don't be too diligent or too dry. When the temperature is low, the transpiration is small, and the interval between watering should be longer, otherwise it should be shorter.

Second, improper fertilization. There is no need to apply fertilizer when the azalea bud expands and colors, otherwise the flowering period will be shortened and the bud will fall off when it expands.

Third, the air humidity is too low. This factor is one of the main reasons why buds wither before they open. Rhododendron needs to maintain a high air humidity to grow well. The flowers are big and gorgeous, and the leaves are dark green and bright. In a dry environment, it is easy to cause leaves to fall off and buds to fail to bloom.

Fourth, poor ventilation. Like the breeze environment, it grows poorly in a closed and windy environment, and it is easy to lose leaves and buds in a closed environment.

The fifth is pests and diseases. Especially the cuckoo net stinkbug is the most harmful, and brown spot and anthracnose can make flowers and leaves fall early.

The sixth is the temperature. Don't be too hot, otherwise the flowering period will be shortened or the flowering will be poor. If the temperature is too high, the bud will not open.

The seventh is light. Scattered light is the best curing, and it can be sunny in winter, not too cool.

Question 5: What about the fallen leaves of azaleas? I bought azaleas from the flower market. When I got home, the leaves were almost gone. How to raise it to bring it back to life? To tell you the truth, it is dead. Rhododendrons are very special. Although it is a woody plant, its root system is particularly fragile. It is a hairy root, without a main root, it will die quickly if it is not watered, and the water will rot easily.

Question 6: Why didn't the azaleas bloom? There are many reasons why rhododendrons drop buds. See which one is yours, so that you can prescribe the right medicine. 1) improper water and fertilizer. In the process of flower growth, excessive water and fertilizer lead to the growth of branches in vain, and nutrients are mostly used for the growth of vegetative organs (roots, stems and leaves). Lack of nutrition in reproductive organs (flowers, fruits or seeds) affects the formation of flower buds, resulting in no flowers or less flowers. Even if it can bloom, it is easy to drop flowers and buds. This phenomenon often occurs in the case of too much nitrogen fertilizer and insufficient phosphorus fertilizer, which will affect the formation of flower buds. Therefore, it is necessary to pay attention to the application of flower fertilizer containing more phosphorus fertilizer or 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution during flower bud differentiation, which is beneficial to the formation of flower buds and the pregnancy of buds. Too much fertilization and frequent watering during pregnancy in bud stage can easily lead to flowers falling and buds falling, long-term lack of fertilizer and water for peanuts, poor plant growth, emaciation and short stature, and also easily lead to few or small flowers and poor flower quality. (2) The illumination temperature is not suitable. Due to the different origins of flowers, the ecology is different, some like light, and some are suitable for semi-shade; Some like warmth, some like coolness, some like warmth and humidity, and some are drought-tolerant. If their living conditions are not satisfied, it is easy to cause falling flowers and falling buds. (3) The soil salt content is high. Most flowers prefer slightly acidic and neutral soil to saline-alkali soil. Even more saline-alkali tolerant flowers, such as geranium, rose, etc., will affect their growth and flowering when the soil salt content exceeds 0. 1% and the pH value exceeds pH7.5, because the soil has the best nutrient availability and is most suitable for the growth and development of flowers under the slightly acidic strip of pH6-7. Acidic soil not only affects flowering. In severe cases, it will lead to plant death. (4) pruning. If the cultivated flowers and trees are not trimmed and reshaped for a long time, the branches are messy, which not only affects the appearance, but also consumes a lot of nutrients because of many unnecessary branches, which affects the formation of flower buds, and is also one of the reasons for not flowering or flowering less. (5) The room temperature is too high in winter. In winter, most flowers are dormant or semi-dormant, and the suitable room temperature is about 5 degrees. Even if some flowers like warmth, such as Milan and glass dishes, the room temperature should generally not exceed 12℃. Pomegranate, rose, peach, potted grape and fig are suitable for low temperature (about 0℃). If the room temperature is too high, it will affect the full dormancy or premature bud emergence of flowers and trees, consume a lot of nutrients, and the second year will be weak, not flowering or thin and thin, and easy to fall. (6) Pest invasion. In the process of growth and development, flowers are often vulnerable to pests and diseases, and their growth is damaged, which affects the accumulation of nutrients and is also a reason for falling flowers and buds.

Question 7: What should I do if the azalea leaves are dry? There are many reasons why the yellow leaves of rhododendron are dry and sharp. Let's see what caused you:

(1) Too much watering and long-term over-wetting of the basin soil lead to lack of oxygen in the soil, which makes some fibrous roots rot, hinders normal breathing and absorption of water and nutrients, and makes the leaves turn yellow and fall off. After injury, the young leaves first turn pale yellow, and then the old leaves gradually turn yellow. Water should be controlled immediately, fertilization should be suspended, and soil should be loosened frequently to make the soil well ventilated.

(2) Drought dehydration. Leakage of flowers or long-term watering (that is, wet on the top and dry on the bottom) will affect nutrient absorption, and it is also easy to cause dull and drooping leaves. First, the lower old leaves are aging and gradually wither and fall off from bottom to top. At this time, it is necessary to water a little, spray some water, let it gradually recover, and then turn to normal watering.

(3) Long-term fertilization. Long-term non-application of ammonia fertilizer or changing pots and soil, the soil lacks nutrients such as nitrogen, which leads to sparse branches and leaves, thinning and yellowing. It is necessary to pour the pots in time, replace them with new loose and fertile culture soil, and gradually apply dilute and decomposed liquid fertilizer or compound flower fertilizer.

(4) Overfertilization. If too much fertilizer is applied, new leaves will be thick and uneven, and old leaves will fall off in brown. Therefore, fertilization should be stopped immediately, and the amount of water should be increased to make the fertilizer flow out from the drainage hole at the bottom of the basin, or the basin should be emptied immediately, and the clods should be washed with water, and then replanted in the basin.

(5) hot and high temperature. In summer, if the cool flowers (such as cyclamen, upside-down golden bell and begonia) are placed in a high temperature place and directly exposed to strong light, it is easy to cause the tips and edges of young leaves to burn or the leaves to fall off. It needs to be moved to a well-ventilated shade in time.

(6) excessive shading. If the sunshine-loving flowers are placed in a cool place or a place with insufficient light for a long time, the branches and leaves will grow white, the leaves will become thin and yellow, and they will not bloom or rarely bloom. Be careful to move the flowerpot to a sunny place.

(7) Soil and water are alkaline. The soil and water in most parts of the north contain more saline and alkali. When planting flowers that like acidic soil, such as azalea, camellia, smiling face, gardenia, orchid, magnolia, osmanthus, etc. Due to the lack of soluble iron and other elements that can be absorbed by the soil, the leaves will gradually turn yellow. Acidic soil should be used when planting, and alum fertilizer should be poured frequently during the growth period.

(8) Dense ventilation. Excessive application of nitrogen fertilizer, lush growth of branches and leaves, long-term non-pruning, insufficient illumination of branches and leaves in the inner room, easy to cause leaves to yellow and fall off. Fertilization should be reasonable, and pruning should be strengthened to make it ventilated and transparent.

(9) air drying. When the indoor air is too dry, some flowers that like humid environment, such as chlorophytum and orchid, often have the phenomenon of dry tip or scorched leaf edge. Attention should be paid to increasing air humidity by spraying water and covering plastic film.

(10) The temperature is not suitable. When the room temperature is too low in winter, flowers that like high temperature are often vulnerable to cold damage, leading to yellowing of leaves, and in severe cases, they will die of yellowing. If the room temperature is too high, the transpiration of plants will be too strong, the water and nutrients in roots will be in short supply, and the leaves will turn yellow. Please pay attention to adjust the room temperature in time.

(1 1) The soil is slightly acidic. The red loam in the south is acidic, and magnesium is easy to lose. Flowers and trees planted with alkali-resistant or slightly sealed soil, such as oleander, boxwood, Yingchun, etc., are often easy to turn green and yellow between the veins of old leaves. Calcium magnesium phosphate or magnesium sulfate solution can be applied.

(12) pests and diseases. Leaf spot caused by fungi and other pathogens is easy to cause local necrosis of leaves and yellow spots or plaques. In severe cases, the leaves are completely yellow and fall off, and yellow-green mosaic spots appear after the leaves are infected by mosaic virus. Suffer from scale insects, red spiders, etc. The leaves will also become partially yellow and withered, or even the whole leaves will turn yellow and fall off. All should be sprayed in time to prevent and control.

(13) strong * * *. Too high concentration of pesticides used in pest control, or toxic gas pollution in the atmosphere, or sudden pouring of cold water when the temperature is high, are easy to cause local yellowing, burning and even death of the whole plant. Therefore, we should pay attention to the rational use of pesticides and try to eliminate air pollution sources. Avoid watering flowers with cold water around noon in midsummer. Finally, the yellow leaves of potted flowers are sometimes caused by one reason, but often by many factors. Correct diagnosis can prescribe the right medicine.

Question 8: What about the fallen leaves of azaleas? Let's go to the lottery.

Question 9: Why do azalea leaves wither and how to deal with them? 1. environmental conditions: it is best to cultivate azaleas indoors and indoors. Use indoor environment in winter. In the Yangtze River valley, as long as there are certain lighting and ventilation conditions indoors, there is generally no need for heating. The northern winter is extremely cold and dry, so it is suitable for cultivation in a greenhouse with moderate temperature (about 15℃). Outdoor venues, used in summer and autumn, with mud as the best, avoid cement. The venue should be spacious, ventilated and cool, with a shade shed, a reed curtain or a natural tree-lined shelter, and the light transmittance should be around 30%. It is forbidden to bask in the sun at night. 2. Potted soil requirements: Rhododendron likes loose, porous, well-drained, humus-rich acidic soil with PH value of 5.0-6.0. If clay or alkaline soil is used, it is difficult to survive. Especially Xia Juan and Yang Juan, they must be mountain soil. Mountain soil needs to be improved. At present, three kinds of cultivated soil are usually used. (1) It is prepared by mixing 7 parts of mountain soil, 1 part of dry moss sheet, 2 parts of dry humus soil and 1 part of dry fertilizer. (2) Stack 3 parts of mountain bark soil (topsoil), 3 parts of horse manure, 3 parts of deciduous weeds and 1 part of human manure in layers, and screen them after 1-2 years. (3) Mix 3 parts of mountain soil, 3 parts of humus soil, 4 parts of garden soil and 2 parts of sandy soil, and add 50g of sesame sauce residue and bone meal to each pot. Third, the choice of flowerpots: flowerpots for planting azaleas can generally choose pottery pots and purple sand pots according to their uses. Clay basin has good ventilation and water permeability, which is beneficial to root growth. It is used for the cultivation of production units. Molded azaleas, especially those that have been molded, are generally planted in elegant purple sand pots for indoor and outdoor display. The teapot is exquisite in texture, rich in color and beautiful in shape, which can increase the ornamental value. The permeability of purple sand basin is not as good as that of clay basin. When planting, broken tiles (old tiles) should be placed around the basin wall to facilitate drainage. The size of the flowerpot depends on the age of the plant. Generally, 4-6-year-old plants use 5-inch pots. 6-inch pots for 7- 10 annual plants; 11-15 8-inch flowerpot for propagating plants. Fourth, improve water quality: it is best to use rainwater for watering azaleas, followed by river water and pond water. If tap water is used, it should be stored for 1-2 days and allowed to evaporate before use. When used, add 0.2% ferrous sulfate, and water 1 time every 7- 10 days in the growing season, and use it frequently to ensure that the soil is acidic. Five, fertilizer and water management: azaleas like wet, not too dry. More water is especially needed during flowering. In winter, azaleas have entered the dormant period, and the water demand is not much. Generally, water should be poured 1 time every 4-5 days, around noon on sunny and warm days. According to the dryness of the basin soil, appropriate amount of water can be applied. In March, the roots of rhododendron germinated and the water demand increased. The growth and development of summer rhododendron is a little late, and the watering amount is less than that of spring rhododendron. Generally, water every two days in the afternoon 1 time. From April to June, azaleas bloom one after another, and the branches and leaves begin to sprout, which requires a lot of water. Generally, water 1 time every morning and evening. In the hot and dry season from July to early September, water 1 time in the morning and evening, not too much water, and spray water on the leaves and ground at noon to maintain a humid environment. From mid-September to165438+1October, the weather gradually turns cold, which is the adaptive period for the growth of rhododendrons. In order to prevent the autumn shoots from pulling out and enhance the cold resistance in winter, the watering amount should be reduced appropriately. Generally, water 1 time every other morning to keep it moist. Rhododendron prefers fertilizer. Generally, water with decomposed cake fertilizer, fish meal, broad bean or Chinese milk vetch, and human excrement and urine are prohibited. Apply 1 thin fertilizer every 10 day, with the concentration of 15%, and apply * * * 2-3 times, so as to promote the old leaves to turn green and sprout new roots. Fertilize 5-6 times from mid-May to early July to promote the growth of branches and leaves after flowers wither. If it rains continuously, dry fertilizer can be applied. Fertilize 1-2 times before entering the house and before the growth of azalea is about to stop. Sixth, outdoor shading: it is advisable to see more sunshine before going out and before civilization; At noon in flowering period, it should be shaded for a short time, with a light transmittance of 60%; The plum rain period from June to early July is the flowering period of azaleas, so try to see more sunshine. However, in the case of strong sunshine, it should be shaded from 9: 00 am to 4: 00 pm to avoid burning new leaves. From mid-July to early September, we should shade the sun from 8 am to 5 pm every day to prevent the sun from exposure. The autumn growth period after September can shorten the shading time ... >>

Question 10: What about the fallen leaves of azaleas? 20 minutes. My dear friend, your azaleas seem to be dying. If there is a next time, I suggest you find out why it died this time.

If the rhododendron is burned first and then dropped, it is because of hypertrophy, plus the hot weather in summer, the roots are rotten. If it is soft, because the soil is airtight, water cannot be discharged in time, but this is rare. It is best to put it on the north window sill for maintenance in summer. Ventilate every day, water with rainwater, precipitated rice soup or fish tank water, and fertilize with liquid fertilizer and water once every half month.