20 19-02-273 18 Riding "Towards Mount Everest" on the National Highway in Tibet

Riding on Tibet's 3 18 national highway "towards Mount Everest".

It took 76 days to start from Chengdu and ride 365,438+000 kilometers along National Highway 365,438+08. I climbed 20 high-altitude mountains. There was laughter, sweat, meeting and parting along the way, and finally I rode to Everest base camp. I thought about giving up, and I doubt the meaning of cycling. It was not until I reached my destination that I realized that all this was just because I wanted to live in depth. ...

1 Ranwu Town → bomi county → Tongmai Town → Layue Township.

I suddenly felt a strong discomfort and got used to them behind me. When you speak, there will be a response later. I thought we would ride until the end. ...

Return to Ranwu Town from the glacier. After a day's rest, I went on my way, and my destination was bomi county. Coming out of the city and marching along Ranwu Lake, it was autumn and the leaves began to turn yellow. Unfortunately, it rained last night, and the lake was not as blue as it should be, otherwise it must be beautiful. On the picturesque road from Ranwu to Bomi, we met many people who measured the land with their bodies. They wear protective gear on their hands and knees, and their forequarters are hung with fur clothes. They set out from their hometown and marched to Lhasa in three steps, regardless of difficulties.

On the way, I met an interesting cyclist, "Uncle Li", who is from Shanxi. After 15 years of sales. The dream is to be an actor. After resigning, he bought a bicycle in Taobao, traveled more than half of China from Shanxi, and finally met us on the 3 18 national road. I said to him, "I want to interview you. Why don't you come with us?" He just joined the team.

It was already dark when we arrived in Songzong town, so we decided to arrive in Bomi overnight. Unexpectedly, the remaining 40 kilometers of rotten roads were miserable, and it rained heavily at night. The car skids and drifts as soon as it rides, and the visibility is zero at night. Fortunately, I met a big brother driving on the road and always used the high beam to guide us. At one o'clock in the morning, we finally saw the city lights. At that moment, we felt that we were back on earth, but the big brother who helped us light the lamp left without even leaving his name.

After a day in Bomi, we continued to set out for Tongmai Town. During the day, we finally saw the true face of the 40-kilometer rotten road we rode the night before. The rain washed away the rocks on both sides, and there were always landslides along the way. It's horrible to think that we still ride bicycles on such a bad road at night.

I drove all the way, hoping to get out of this muddy road before dark. But at the critical moment, Uncle Li's luggage rack broke down, so we decided to guard his car, and he hitchhiked back to the city to find parts. At 7: 30 in the evening, we finally looked forward to Grandpa's return. Seeing that we haven't left yet, Uncle Li was very moved and said, "Brother, I will ride to Mount Everest with you!" " "I said," well, come on. "We rode for another three hours on the bad road of the remaining 23 kilometers. When we arrived in Tongmai, everyone was exhausted and fell asleep the first time they touched the pillow. At that time, I didn't know that I would face my first parting.

I woke up at noon the next day. Unexpectedly, my cycling partner said to me in autumn, "Brother Jin, I want to ride to Lhasa today." I was surprised and asked him why: "There are only more than 500 kilometers left, don't you insist?" We have been together for almost a year, and knowing from his eyes that he is determined to leave, we stopped persuading him. After a while, I came by bike and said that I would ride to Lhasa with Qiu and meet a classmate. I said, "I can't stop my leg on myself."

I didn't say a word when they left in the afternoon, and I didn't know what to say. Only Pan Pan said goodbye to Uncle Li Ran, and Pan Pan came back crying. We packed our things and set off for Lulang again. I stopped talking and just rode all the way. Everyone has feelings, and it is false to say that it is not uncomfortable. I suddenly felt a strong discomfort and got used to them behind me. When you speak, there will be a response later. I thought we would ride until the end. ...

I couldn't get to Lulang today, and finally stopped in Layue Township. The next day, Uncle Li also said goodbye to us because of time. Liang Jizhang wrote in his letter to his son: "No one is irreplaceable and nothing is necessary. See through this, even if you lose everything you love most in the world in the future, you must understand. It's no big deal. " No one has to accompany anyone to the end, and the person who can accompany you to the end is always yourself.

2 Lulang → Linzhi → Jiacha County → Ramlacuo → Qusong → Zedang

When I look at Lamla, I know I can't see my past life. I don't need to know what my past life was like or what will happen in the future. I only know how to live every day and do what I want to do.

Today's destination is to climb the second mountain left by National Highway 3 18-Sejila Mountain. It is 4720 meters above sea level. The temperature of the sun was just right when I set out. Pampan wants to find a place to repair the car. I rode alone on the road. When passing through the entrance of Sejila Mountain, the wind rustled the flag, just like when the hometown held the annual "annual festival" every year, the road was covered with colorful flags.

I met a pair of Guangdong mothers and children on foot halfway up the mountain and asked me why I chose to walk. She said that walking has enough time to feel everything in the world, and that feeling can't be expressed in words. She believes in Buddhism. She says Buddhism is wonderful and unfathomable. She was in poor health before hiking. Now she is very healthy, and she thinks it is a gift from the Buddha. After chatting with my aunt for more than half an hour, I waved goodbye. Although it is the same route, different results will be obtained in different ways. After a while, Pan Pan caught up with me on a motorcycle. At this time, the sky was covered with dark clouds. I told her to wait for me at the top of the mountain first and ride slowly by herself.

A man was riding a horse on the hillside of Sejila Mountain, and it rained cats and dogs. I was soaked to the skin. It was foggy at that time, and the visibility was only about 10 meter. I had to hide in the shed to avoid the rain. If I keep riding in this weather, I'm afraid the passing cars won't see me. Take me straight off the cliff! The rain is getting smaller and smaller. Then I rode on it. It snowed heavily when it was 3 kilometers from the top of the mountain. This photo is so beautiful that I have taken it in my mind countless times. But my fingers and toes are completely paralyzed with cold, let alone taking pictures. Every step forward is trampled by will. At this time, I remembered what my aunt said on foot: "What we are suffering now is to eliminate evil obstacles in the future." Finally, I climbed to the top of the mountain. At this time, my car and body were covered with snow. At ten o'clock in the evening, Pan Pan and I found an inn in Linzhi. At this moment. Lhasa is only 400 kilometers away.

After a day's renovation in Linzhi, we listened to the suggestion of the big brother of the repair shop and prepared to change to provincial highway 306 and go to Lhasa via Shannan. Because most of the national highway 3 18 from Linzhi to Lhasa is under repair, the scenery is not good. The next day, I officially entered the 306 provincial highway. From this day on, the weather became very good. It rained almost every day before, and the sky was clear over Mount Sejila and Wan Li. We rode along the Yarlung Zangbo River, and the road conditions were good. I have been riding comfortably these two days. After Wolong Town and Langxian County, we arrived at Jiacha County smoothly.

Not far from Jiacha, there is a very famous place in Shannan region-Lamulacuo, which means "the soul lake of the goddess" in Tibetan. Early in the morning, Pan Pan and I rode a little sheep to Lamla Cuo. It is 55 kilometers away from Jiacha county, but the altitude rises to 5360 meters, which is higher than the base camp of Mount Everest. Legend has it that in Lamla Cuo, people standing by the lake can see their past lives. I am not a pious person. When I looked at Rama Cuo from a distance, I knew I couldn't see my past life. I can only watch and recall the first 31 years of my life. Every scene is as clear as yesterday. I don't need to know what my past life was like or what will happen in the future. I only know how to live every day and do what I want.

The next day, I set out from Jiacha County and the destination was Qusong County. As a result, we actually set foot on a dirt road, and we had to climb the Budanla Mountain at an altitude of 49 10 meters to reach Qusong. This is definitely a bolt from the blue! Some villagers suggested that I go back, but I finally decided to climb the mountain. At one o'clock in the afternoon, I started a whole 28-kilometer climbing road, and it rained heavily halfway up the mountain. After the rain, the dirt road became more difficult to ride and the tires kept slipping. I have to grit my teeth and insist. When I reached the top of the mountain, it was already 7 pm. I have never climbed such a painful mountain. If this happened when I was just traveling, I would probably give up traveling directly and finally make a trip. After going down the mountain, we rushed from Qusong County to Zedang Town overnight. At this time, it is only the last 156 km from Lhasa.

3 Zedang Town → Sanye Temple → Lhasa

I thought I was free to wave goodbye. As a result, I looked at her motorcycle and thought about the wind and rain all the way, and I knew I couldn't make it.

From Zedang Town, we made a detour to Sanye Temple, and then officially sprinted to Lhasa. We are getting closer and closer to Lhasa, and an eager excitement is rippling in our hearts. Shannan region, most of the northern part of the Yarlung Zangbo River has been desertified, and sometimes I think I am in the desert when I walk! On the national highway 3 18, 30 kilometers outside Lhasa, autumn is strong. All the way is golden. I specially found a place to wash my car on the way.

At night, I finally stood in front of the Potala Palace. It took 48 days to set out from Chengdu, and it was scorching hot and raining cats and dogs all the way, and it experienced too many ups and downs. Lhasa is a destination, but it is not my destination.

I overslept on my first day in Lhasa. After lunch, my friend accompanied me to Bajiao Street in Jokhang Temple. Four years ago, I first set foot on the land of Tibet, and my first stop was Jokhang Temple. Four years later. Come back here. It feels completely different. The only constant is that the sunshine in Tibet is always so bright, the sky is so blue and the clouds are so low.

After wandering for a while, I came to the holy city bookstore recommended by some people before. Pick any book on the shelf and go to the roof to kill time. There are not many tourists in Lhasa in the off-season. In the afternoon, there was no one except the cat that occasionally appeared beside me in the shop. I haven't read a book so leisurely and completely for a long time.

Pan Pan went to kowtow. I went to see her. She's too conspicuous. Late October. I can't believe I kowtowed there in only one skirt. No shoes, only a pair of socks! The next day, she began to feel sick and had a high fever, so she had to go to the hospital for an intravenous drip.

When I was hospitalized in Pan Pan, I received a distant phone call reminding me that I must arrive in Chengdu on1October 9 165438. Now there are only 18 days left, and I must leave for Everest Base Camp at once.

Before I left, I visited Pan Pan in the hospital. The doctor said she was fine. But there is no way to reduce the fever here. I will take an early flight to Chengdu tomorrow and return to the plain until my fever goes down. Hearing this, I felt a pang of sadness. I sat by the bed and looked at Pan Pan. Although she has had a high fever for several days, she is in good spirits, and I am relieved. After seeing Pan Pan, I was going to pick up the courier by bike, when Pan Pan said to me, "They will take me to the airport tomorrow morning." I looked at the time, it was only 7: 30, so I made an appointment with Pan Pan to meet at the inn before leaving.

I didn't expect a little accident on the way to pick up the express. When we arrived at the inn, it was already afternoon 10. Pan Pan has been waiting for me at the inn. She just wants to see you again before she leaves. We just looked at each other. She got up and said, "Well, I'm leaving." I won't say much. Put her in the car. I saw her wave goodbye to me through the window when the car started.

Back at the inn, I opened the courier, and there was a new suit for Pan Pan, so that she wouldn't be cold when she went to Everest. As a result, she didn't have a chance to wear it. Suddenly, I realized that I was used to this annoying girl staying with me for two months, and now she's really gone, and she's not used to it. She accompanied me all the way from xinduqiao. I never thought that she could drive a motorcycle, follow her bike all the way, and finally accompany me to Lhasa. After 58 days together, even a wood will have feelings, let alone a living person. I thought I could wave goodbye freely, but looking at her motorcycle and thinking about the hardships along the way, I knew I couldn't. Pan Pan, you should get well soon. Be that annoying girl who follows me all day.

4 Lhasa → Shigatse → Lazi → Dingri County → Rongbu Temple → Everest Base Camp

Many stars, whose names I can't name, are densely listed in the sky. A meteor, dragging its dark red tail, goes west and disappears behind the mountain.

Early the next morning. I'm off. Starting today, it's really just me.

It's less than ten kilometers away. I felt a pain in my right leg and knee, which turned into a stabbing pain after several kilometers of hard support. I can only stop and rest for a while, and then keep walking, so I have to keep going. Finally, even if it is a small slope, I will push the car uphill. The road is too remote. Not to mention the pharmacy, there is not even a hotel, so we have to endure the sting and move forward slowly.

It was dark. Few cars pass by on the road. I am the only one in the whole valley except the stars, the sea and the sounds of some animals. I watched the Milky Way hanging in the valley. That moment was amazing. I don't feel lonely or afraid at all. On the contrary, I enjoy it, because this scene has a feeling of deja vu. Ride until the evening 1 1: 30, and finally stop at a small hotel.

The next day, I rode to Shigatse and found a clinic to see the injury. Fortunately, it's just a soft tissue strain. You should be able to ride normally tomorrow after rubbing the medicine. After a day's rest, my knee pain is much better. Get up in the morning and go back to 3 18 road. The sky was clear and cloudless, and I walked all the way along the plateau valley, getting closer and closer to the Everest base camp. From Shigatse to Lahu and then to Dingri County, I have to ride more than 80 kilometers almost every day these days. Finally, I endured my sore knees and climbed the Gaoura Pass at an altitude of 5198m.

Standing on the top of the mountain. Qunfeng hits the face. Under the blue sky. Countless snow-capped mountains are listed, and there are four over 8000 meters. Mount Everest is in the middle, and the mountains are arched. This pyramid-shaped mountain is vigorous and magnificent. Luozifeng leans on the side of Mount Everest, like King Kong, unknown. Makaru Peak and Zhuoyou Peak are far away from each other. This scene is spectacular. Like the atmosphere. You must travel hard to get it. The 108 turn at the foot of the mountain is the last downhill before entering the Everest base camp, and it is all a turn-back. Helically arranged, it is actually more spectacular than the Nujiang 72 turn. I turned down the hill along the legendary 108. It was already 9: 30 in the evening when we arrived at Rongbu Temple.

Today is the last day of riding. I woke up early in the morning, but I couldn't bear to leave. After riding for 76 days, when I finally arrived at my destination, I felt inexplicably sad.

The last few kilometers are harder to ride than I thought. I never thought that the second collapse since riding a horse would happen here. I thought I would definitely arrive in an hour, but the last three kilometers were all sandy roads and uphill. After driving for a few meters, I feel that I can't ride. In a rage, I pushed the car to the side of the road, sat on the stone next to me and smoked one cigarette after another. In the end, my reason overcame negative emotions, and I had to push the remaining few kilometers, otherwise I would regret it all my life. It took me two hours at last, and I finally reached my destination.

It took 76 days to start from Chengdu, ride 3 100 km along national highway 3 18, and climb over more than 20 high-altitude peaks. At this moment, Mount Everest, the highest mountain on earth, is in front of me. It looked at me quietly, and I looked at it. There is no imaginary excitement, but there is a faint sense of loss. I am lost not because it disappoints me, but because I know that every trip will come to an end and everyone I meet will eventually be separated. I keep asking myself why I want to ride into Tibet. When I reached the finish line, I finally understood. I hope to live deeply and absorb all the essence of life, so that I won't find that I have never lived at all at the end of my life.