The first person to climb Mount Everest and when.

1. In 1921, the British mountaineering team (captain Ke Havard Barry) climbed Mount Everest for the first time from Tibet in China. They didn't cross the top of the northern depression, claiming that the height they reached was 6,985 meters. Because of their failure, they announced that it was a reconnaissance mountaineering activity.

2. In 1922, the second British Everest climbing team (Captain Ji Bruce) still took the northern slope route in Tibet, and they crossed the northern depression, but when they reached the height of 8,225 meters, they failed because of the death of seven people.

3. In 1924, the third British Everest climbing team (Captain F. Norton) was still climbing from the northern slope of Mount Everest in China. When Norton and others reached 8,572 meters below the "second step" of the northern slope, they were forced to go down the mountain because of lack of oxygen. The team members Mallory and Abin kept on going and never returned.

4. In 1933, the British mountaineering team, composed of 16 people (captain Herr Lutoleghi), still used the route on the northern slope of Tibet in China, but it also failed. When the team members Wen Harris and Weigel reached an altitude of 8,57 meters, they found the ice axe of Mallory, a member of the British Everest mountaineering team in 1924, which confirmed that Mallory and others died at this altitude.

5. In 1934, an Englishman, Mi Wilson, used a light plane to climb the mountain alone. As a result, the plane was damaged near the Kampo Glacier, and he was slightly injured. Later, he hired some local Sherpa people to help him climb the mountain, but after a storm, he froze to death on the East Russian Glacier.

in June, 1935, the British Everest mountaineering team, composed of seven people (captain Shipton), only detected the elevation of the northern slope of Mount Everest in Tibet, which was 7, meters, that is, near the northern depression, and returned.

In July, 1936, the British Everest mountaineering team, consisting of ten people (captain Herr Lutoleghi), reached the top of the northern depression at an altitude of 7,7 meters and returned [Note: the top of the northern depression used to be 7,7 meters, and the exact height was calculated by the China mountaineering team in 1975 through field measurement].

in August, 1938, the British Everest climbing team, composed of seven people (captain Ge Dillman), still climbed from the northern slope of China, and failed after reaching an altitude of 8,29 meters.

9. In 1947, for the first time to climb Mount Everest after World War II, Canadian Le Dianman hired some local mountain residents as porters, and still walked on the northern slope of China, not exceeding the altitude of 6,4 meters, and finally failed to return.

The above-mentioned nine activities of climbing Mount Everest were all carried out from Tibet in China, and they were all unsuccessful.

after p>195, Tibet was liberated, and Tibet, which is located in the southwest frontier, will no longer allow foreign mountaineering teams to carry out mountaineering activities at will. Since then, foreign mountaineering teams have changed from the southern slope in Nepal to climb Mount Everest.

in October, 195, a mountaineering team composed of American Dick Xiuston and others made the first attempt to climb Mount Everest from the southern slope of Nepal, and only reached the vicinity of the ice explosion area at an altitude of 6,1 meters on the Kampo Glacier, and then returned.

in November and 195, the British mountaineering team, consisting of five people (captain Ge Dillman), claimed in advance that it was a reconnaissance team climbing Mount Everest from the south slope, and returned after reaching the vicinity of the Kumbu Glacier at an altitude of 5,48 meters.

in p>12, 1951, the British mountaineering team, headed by Shipton, consisted of seven people. They only climbed a section of the Kampot Glacier and returned at an altitude of 6,45 meters.

13. In 1951, a Danish named Kebeka Larsson illegally and secretly crossed the border into Tibet. He planned to climb Mount Everest from the northern slope, but he failed without even crossing the altitude of 6,5 meters.

In May p>14, 1952, a ten-member Swiss mountaineering team led by captain Le Dietmar climbed Mount Everest from the southern slope of Nepal. After reaching an altitude of 8,54 meters, the team member Le ranbir and their hired porter Tengxin from Nepal failed because of bad weather, but they created a route from the southern slope of Mount Everest to the summit.

in October, 1952, the Swiss mountaineering team led by Gert Chevalier climbed Mount Everest from the south slope for the first time in autumn, that is, after the rainy season in the Himalayas. Le ranbir, a member of the Swiss team, was a participant in the spring of the same year. Team member En Gillenfurt and Nepalese Tengxin, who were employed in the spring, reached an altitude of 8,1 meters, and failed again due to bad weather.

in p>16 and 1953, two members of the British mountaineering team (composed of ten people) were led by their captain, Joe Hunter, who reached the summit of Mount Everest. The members who climbed to the top were Yi Hilary (New Zealander) and Fujishin Norguet (the Nepalese who climbed 8 meters twice with the Swiss mountaineering team in spring and autumn of 1952). Team members Evans and burgui Lang reached an altitude of 8,72 meters. The height of Mount Everest used by the British this time is 8,84 meters.

In p>17 and 1956, the Swiss mountaineering team (captain Arbel eger) was composed of five members, including E Schmitt, You Malmitt, A Reis and Ge Gongqin. With the support of a large number of Nepalese porters and guides, they climbed Mount Everest in two groups on May 23rd. The route they used was opened by Swiss athletes in 1952 and was first adopted and succeeded by the British team. That is, from the Kumbum Glacier on the south slope of Mount Everest, it reaches the mountain depression (commonly known as the South Depression) between Mount Everest and its sister peak Luoze Peak (8,51 meters above sea level), and then climbs to the top along the southeast ridge. The elevation of Mount Everest used is 8,848 meters.

18. In the early morning of May 25th, 196, the China Everest Mountaineering Team (chief commander Han Fudong, captain Shi Zhanchun), led by the assault team leader Wang Fuzhou, climbed the highest mountain in the world for the first time from the northern slope of China. The three members who climbed the peak were Wang Fuzhou, Kampot (Tibetan) and Qu Yinhua. At that time, there was an anti-China clamour from the international imperialists, and after three years of natural disasters and treachery, Chinese and Soviet mountaineers unilaterally withdrew from the activities of climbing Mount Everest together. This time, Chinese mountaineers successfully climbed Mount Everest from the northern slope for the first time, which fully demonstrated the revolutionary heroism of the people of China under the leadership of China's * * * production party and Chairman Mao.

In this mountaineering battle, 29 members of the China mountaineering team * * * climbed to the height of Mount Everest above 8,1 meters, and 13 members climbed to the height of 8,5 meters above sea level. This is also the first time in the world mountaineering history.

In May p>19, 196, while the China mountaineering team was attacking Mount Everest from the northern slope, an Indian mountaineering team led by Indian Major Ji Singh was also climbing Mount Everest from the southern slope of Nepal. When they reached an altitude of 8,625 meters on the south slope, they announced that they had given up the summit because of the strong wind.

in p>2 and 1962, India's second Everest climbing team, led by its captain, Lieutenant Colonel Jie Dias of the Indian Army, climbed Mount Everest from the southern slope of Nepal again, but failed again for fear of strong winds. Two of its members climbed to an altitude of 8,717 meters.

in p>21 and 1963, the American Everest mountaineering team (Captain En Dilinfes) succeeded in reaching the summit from the south slope of Mount Everest in Nepal along the southwest ridge. The U.S. team made two raids at intervals of 21 days. The first time, two people reached the summit on May 1, the second time, four people on May 22, and six people on two occasions. This is the fourth mountaineering team to climb Mount Everest.

On May 2th, 22nd, 24th and 29th, the Indian mountaineering team (headed by Indian Navy Major Mu Guo Li) climbed to the summit of Mount Qomolangma from the southern slope of Nepal in four days, and climbed nine people for four times. The team leader, vice captain and members were all selected from Indian servicemen.

in the spring of p>23, 1969, the Japanese mountaineering team made the first exploratory mountaineering from the south slope of Mount Everest. After reaching the Kampot Glacier area at an altitude of 6,45 meters, some glacier and meteorological observers were left behind. They stayed in Mount Everest for a whole year and observed meteorology and glaciers for a long time, which laid the necessary foundation for the Japanese team to officially climb Mount Everest in 197.

in the autumn of 1969, the Japanese Everest mountaineering team (captain Fujita Hiroshi) tried to capture Everest from the south slope on the basis of mountaineering reconnaissance in that spring, but after reaching an altitude of 8, meters, they announced that they had "completed the autumn mountaineering reconnaissance mission" and returned.

in the spring of 197, the Japanese Everest mountaineering team was led by 7-year-old captain Saburo Matsumoto (this man is a veteran of Japanese mountaineering. Although he participated in this mountaineering, he spent all his time in the base camp, neither taking part in the adaptive March nor taking part in the summit activities. His participation shows that the Japanese mountaineering community attaches great importance to this activity), and he made a surprise attack on Mount Everest in two groups:

One group went straight into the summit of Mount Everest from the south of Mount Everest along a steep rock wall (also called rock wall) which was 8 meters long. This was a relatively difficult route chosen by the Japanese themselves, because they dared to "climb technically" at an altitude of more than 8, meters, that is, climb a steep rock wall, which was not done by other mountaineering teams in the past. The other group is still the traditional old route, that is, the route from the south slope to the top along the southeast ridge through the south depression.

The reason why the Japanese team split up in two ways and dared to challenge the rock wall on the south slope of Mount Everest was inseparable from the world mountaineering trend at that time. Because climbing from the south slope along the traditional route and taking the road taken by others is of little significance to the rapidly developing alpine mountaineering. The Japanese team's frontal summit route on the south hillside rose by about 15 meters (calculated by the vertical height of the slope) as expected and failed. Finally, they had to rely on the traditional route of the second group. On May 11 and 12, 197, the team was divided into two ladder groups and four people climbed the traditional route successfully. The top climbers were Matsuura Huifu, Uemura Naoko, Ping Linkmin and Nepalese porter Csatari.

26. In the spring of 1971, the "International Everest Climbing Team", composed of climbers from eleven European countries, including Britain, France, Italy, Austria, Switzerland and India, was led by the team leader, Swiss climber En Kilenfurt, and climbed to the top along the route of the southwest ridge on the south slope of Mount Everest (basically the route of the American mountaineering team in 1963). Due to the inconsistent pace at the beginning and great internal differences, the Indian player Huguna failed after being killed by an avalanche.

In the spring of p>27, 1972, a "European Everest Climbing Team" composed of climbers from eight European countries (Britain, France, Italy, Austria, West Germany, Switzerland and other countries) led by Sidek Haili Kaufer reached the summit from the south slope along the traditional route, and failed after reaching an altitude of 8,2 meters.

28. In the autumn of 1972 (September-November), the British military mountaineering team (captain Bonington) climbed Mount Everest along the traditional route on the southern slope. After establishing an assault camp at an altitude of 8,23 meters, it was forced to fail due to the bad weather.

29. In the spring of 1973 (February-May), the Italian military mountaineering team, led by Guido Monzino, president of the Italian military mountaineering school, formed a large-scale Everest mountaineering team, including Italian land, sea and air forces, police forces, customs officers, medical, meteorological and other military scientific staff. It was held twice on May 5 and May 7 of that year, each time in a group (. There are about 6 Italian soldiers in the team, which is the largest number of climbers in Nepal among foreign mountaineering teams so far. They hired more than 3 Nepalese porters and guides, and mobilized various means of transport, including modern mountain transport such as military helicopters and tractors on sloping fields.

The Italian military mountaineering team's summit route was originally two plans, one was to climb the summit along the southwest ridge (the route originally used by the American team in 1963), and the other was a backup plan, that is, to climb the summit along the traditional route of the southeast ridge, which is relatively safe. As a result, the first plan was blocked, and finally the backup plan was adopted to reach the peak.

In the autumn of p>3, 1973, the Japanese Mount Qomolangma team (captain Shotaro Mizuno) entered Mount Qomolangma from August of that year. Originally, it attempted to climb the summit from the route just south of Mount Qomolangma that the Japanese team failed in 197. In advance, it tried to improve its equipment, such as oxygen equipment suitable for altitude above 8, meters, but it still failed to cross the big rock wall above 8, meters. As a result, it was forced to adopt a backup plan. Two team members, Ishiguro and Yasuo Kato, reached the summit of Mount Everest on October 26th. This is the first time in the history of Everest climbing that it has been successful in autumn.

31. In the spring of 1974, the Spanish Everest expedition (captain Lorant Zugaza, physiologist), consisting of sixteen people, used the traditional route of the southern slope. When the commandos arrived at Camp No.6 (8,6 meters) on May 19, they failed because of the strong wind, which was only 35 meters away from the summit of Mount Everest.

in the autumn of 1974, the French Everest team, headed by the mayor of Schamoni (a small mountain city in the Alps), a famous French mountaineering and skiing city, was composed of ten French people, employing 39 Nepalese porters and guides, and chose the route of the American mountaineering team to climb to the top along the southwest ridge in 1963. One of the main purposes of this mountaineering is to test the physiological changes of the human body at high altitude. They specially made a remote ECG device for each climber, and prepared to make a systematic observation of all the ECG of the athletes from the bottom of the mountain to the top. However, on the night of September 19th, a large avalanche occurred near the altitude of 6,4 ~ 6,9 meters, which killed the captain and five Nepalese porters, and the mountaineering activities of the whole team failed.

33. In the spring of 1975, a Japanese women's Everest climbing team (team Nagano Eiko) composed of fifteen Japanese women, accompanied by a Japanese male reporter, set up a base camp on the south slope of Mount Everest at an altitude of 5,35 meters on March 16th. On May 16, 1975, at 12: 3 local time, the vice captain Junko Tanabei (36 years old) climbed the summit of Mount Everest along the traditional route of the southern slope with Nepali guide An Zelin (27 years old), and stayed for 25 minutes.

The Japanese women's team encountered great difficulties in this mountaineering. They set out from Japan to the base camp at the foot of the mountain and lost a lot of equipment and food; On the night of May 3~4, another big avalanche suddenly occurred in the camp at an altitude of 6,45 meters. Seven female players and 23 Nepalese guides were attacked by an avalanche, and the whole camp at 6,45 meters was completely engulfed by an avalanche. The situation was very dangerous. However, after being rescued in time, all the people in distress escaped, and Junko Tanabe was one of the players who were buried by the avalanche. After reaching the peak, she said, "In the future,