How to raise cobras

The cobra is a large and dangerous venomous snake, and this is its charm. Anyone who loves venomous snakes will love it deeply. Below is the method of raising cobras that I have carefully compiled for you. Let’s take a look. How to raise a cobra

Cobras like warmth and calmness

Cobras will be very nervous in the first few days after arriving home, so it is best to use an opaque container for it during this period. During this period, they basically hide during the day and crawl out to move around when they are quiet at night. Therefore, the cobra must be given a quiet environment in the first few days, but necessary daily inspections are still required. If the cobra urinates acid or defecates, or knocks over the water basin, be sure to clean it up in time. After the cobra becomes familiar with the environment, it will start to become lively. Cobras are less cold-tolerant and like the sun. Their peak activity is from almost 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. However, do not frighten them too much just to satisfy their visual sense, as frightening them too much can easily cause them to refuse to eat.

Cobras enter their peak hunting season from April. Adult snakes can be fed white mice and toads, while young snakes can eat loaches, suckling rats, and small lizards. The type and size of food depends on the individual size of the snake.

Cobras that have just emerged from their hibernation have not fully returned to their active hunting state. They should be fed some highly nutritious and easily digestible food, such as suckling rats; late spring and early summer are suitable for feeding toads, lizards, White mice: Cobras are frequently active in summer and autumn, and they need to absorb a lot of nutrients to survive the winter, so they should feed more nutritious white mice. It is recommended not to feed wild frogs and lizards as these foods carry parasites and germs. In fact, many cobras that have been domesticated for about half a year can accept thawed chicken wings.

The snake box should be large and dry.

The cobra breeding box should be large, with an area equivalent to approximately 3/4 of the square length of the snake's body. Of course, a bigger box would be better. The snake box can be made of wood, with a glass door on the front and covered with ventilation sand nets on the top or both sides; it can also be made of plastic storage box with some small holes for ventilation on both sides or on the top. It is best to keep cobras alone and avoid mixing more than two, especially of different species, otherwise they will bite each other or even eat each other.

A container large enough to hold water must be placed in the snake box for a long time. However, cobras are more lively. If your water basin is not big enough, they will easily be knocked over by the snake. So I suggest you put a stone in the basin to stabilize it. If the water basin is overturned, be sure to clean it immediately, because if the humidity in the snake box is too high, it will sometimes cause ulcers all over the cobra's body.

To keep the box dry and easy to clean, you can line the box with newspapers and bark; if you want the snake to live comfortably, you can give it a half-cut flower pot, which is good Of course, you can also put some branches on it for a stable place. As for other rocks, plants and other embellishments, it depends on everyone's preferences.

Overwintering snakes are afraid of being disturbed.

Cobras hibernate. Generally, subtropical temperate species (such as Zhoushan cobra) begin to hibernate from light snowfall (late November). During non-hibernation time, the temperature in the snake box is usually maintained between 25°C and 30°C. During winter, it needs to be lowered to between 10°C and 16°C. If the temperature is below 10°C, snakes will suffer from respiratory and oral diseases and even die.

In addition, do not take the snake out often to play with during the winter. Because cobras are relatively nervous snakes, being disturbed during the winter will make them uneasy, consume a lot of energy, lead to reduced immunity, and make them prone to diseases. Snakes that get sick in the winter can be tricky to treat.

Safety comes first when raising cobras

Since cobras are venomous snakes with high IQ and relatively nervous nature, they are quite dangerous. Therefore, no matter how docile they appear, do not catch them directly with your hands, otherwise they will suddenly lose control of their mood and attack you because of your excessive movements. Some snakes will bite you and not let go.

In addition, try to avoid head-on confrontation with the cobra. Don’t let its head face your face. Otherwise, if they feel threatened and spray venom, the target will be your eyes.

Therefore, to raise a cobra, you must at least prepare: a snake hook, a snake clip, a pair of thick leather gloves, a pair of glasses, and a sturdy breeding box. It would be better if you have antivenom. Remember that when using the snake hook, your hands must be out of the snake's attack range. How to breed cobras

1. Don't feed water frequently. Just put a water dish once every ten days. This is mainly to keep the snake's skin moist and easy to peel, rather than drinking water. Controlling its drinking water forces the snake to increase its food intake to replenish body moisture. If the snake eats a lot, The growth rate of the snake is also increased, and the snake's nest can be kept dry to prevent the occurrence of skin diseases.

2. Feeding every other day will allow the snake to get used to having plenty of food in a certain period of time and no food in a certain period of time, so the cobra will eat as much as possible when the food is sufficient, and it can sleep well after eating and drinking. At the same time, the food in the stomach also has time to digest.

3. Do not force the snake to cool down. Cobras are generally afraid of cold but not heat. When the outside temperature is 35 degrees, the temperature of the snake's nest is only about 30 degrees. Don't worry about the temperature in the snake house being too high.

Just keep the snake house naturally ventilated. A sudden drop in temperature will cause discomfort to the snake, leading to colds and pneumonia.

4. Divide the snakes into pens according to time, clear the snake pens every two months, and raise them in groups according to size, which will help the snakes grow evenly. Avoid the phenomenon of big snakes eating more than small snakes.

5. It is best to raise commercial cobras indoors (except for species cobras) to avoid skin diseases and excessive temperature changes caused by weather changes or rainy seasons.

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