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"Listening" in Chaoshan Dialect

Cai shaoming

My colleague from Hong Kong said that I would go to Chitan Island, so I asked what the characteristics of Chitan Island were. The answer is: seafood is delicious. Unexpectedly, thousands of miles away from Shantou, I tasted mellow "homesickness".

There is a huge crab sculpture in front of the pier in Klang Port, Malaysia, covered with gold and shining in the sun. It turns out that "Ji Dan" means crab in Malay. We got on the hovercraft, which is called "airplane boat" by the locals. Going north along the coastline, the water surface gradually widens, the mangroves on the shore become denser and denser, and the boat paddles smoothly. The companion only talked and didn't pay attention to the passengers next to him. Later, I found that people were speaking Chaoshan dialect before and after the seat, thinking: What a coincidence! There are so many tourists in Chaoshan area today.

The ship docked at a pier in Chitan Island. When we saw someone get up, we picked up our luggage. At this time, a woman of about 60 years old in the front row told us: "Not yet, this is Wujiaogang Village." Chaoshan dialect! "Have you ever been to this island? Still? " "We are from here." "People here speak Chaoshan dialect?" "yes." Her husband smiled and nodded. My curiosity was ignited at once.

When I got off the boat, I didn't bother to look at the Chinese signs on the roadside. I can't wait to walk along the signpost of sightseeing bicycle on Higher Education Road to Ji Dan Village and verify it on the spot.

First stop: grocery store. When I saw the boss alone, I stopped at the door and waited for someone to come. After a while, a delivery man came in and the boss was ordering something. I vaguely heard: "His ancestor worship will set fifty tables. Please send these drinks first. " Like Minnan dialect and Chaoshan dialect! Second stop: food stall. Fried spring rolls and oil cakes attracted many customers. Someone shouted, "Give me two." The stall owner shouted, "Hello." The words are short and the tone is like the tide! Third stop: food stall. Several young people sat around to prepare lunch. I rubbed past. A man in Kan Kan said, "Whether you go out to work or sell crabs at home. Still an old saying,' integrity lasts forever' ". It's Chaoshan dialect with Chenghai accent, but not all of it.

It is still unclear and impolite to continue to "sit still". After eating a lunch with crabs as the main dish, I began to mention two corners of my mouth and took the initiative to find someone to chat up.

Seeing a food stall with common cabbage and cauliflower in Chaoshan, I asked the stall owner in Mandarin: "Are these dishes all grown on the island?" The stall owner knows that I am a tourist: "No, delicious vegetables can't be grown on the island." "It's the same as that planted in Chaoshan."

Speaking of Chaoshan, the stall owner switched to Chaoshan dialect and asked, "Are you from Shantou?" I nodded and couldn't help asking, "Are you from Chaoshan?" "No, my ancestors were Hakkas." "Then you can speak Chaoshan dialect?" The stall owner said: "There are many Chaoshan people here. If you want to do business, you must learn to speak Chaoshan dialect. " It seems that Chaoshan dialect is unimpeded on this island.

It may be due to the resistance of moisture and wind. Most of the houses on the island are high-rise houses with two or three floors. Most of the walls are painted in orange, green and red, and some have wall paintings, which are bright and dazzling.

Parked outside a house painted with "Bruce Lee", I saw the owner.

It turned out to be the couple I met on the boat. The head of this family is Chen, a third-generation Chinese, whose ancestral home is Chenghai, and now he is engaged in crab wholesale business. He said that more than a hundred years ago, crabs were abundant here. First, Hakkas came here, and then a large number of Chaoshan people crossed the ocean to catch crabs and fish here. The population used to be over 20,000, but now there are about 6,000 people left. The Chaoshan people who took root here have kept the custom of their hometown, and the desert island has also become "Chaoshan Village". I asked, "Have you ever been to Chenghai?" Chen shook his head.

I heard that we are from Chaozhou Opera Troupe. Mr. Chen said, "There used to be Chaozhou Opera here. The stage is just to the east. I'll show you around. "

The stage is very shabby. The stage was full of sundries and spider silk hung down. The walls are peeling off and the corners are overgrown with weeds. Behind the stage, there is a tributary of the sea. When the tide receded, a simple dock built by mangroves stood alone on the shore.

"At that time, the ship carrying the costume of the troupe stopped here to unload the goods." According to Mr. Chen, every June, the big crab catchers in the village will pay the Thai Chaozhou Opera Troupe to perform "Thank God". In recent years, due to the repeated depreciation of Malaysian ringgit, the village has been unable to afford theatrical performances, and Chaoshan Chaole has gradually been forgotten.

I looked at the empty audience around me and was speechless for a moment. Think of emperors and princes, talented people and beautiful women who once appeared on the stage, rapid drums, sharp heads and strings, and the hot irradiation of spotlights. That kind of enthusiasm, that kind of noise, is in sharp contrast with the loneliness now, which makes people feel deeply touched and helpless.

They must have been watching us when we left Mr. Chen's house. I suddenly feel that Chaoshan dialect is not only a passport to Jidan Island, but also a concern.

I'll go back first in the evening, and my colleagues from Hong Kong will stay on the island. They will hold a small concert, play Chaozhou music and sing Chaozhou opera.

Chaozhou opera fans in Kuala Lumpur and nearby places will gather on this isolated island to express themselves.

I especially want to know the night view of Chitan Island. I asked them to take pictures of me, the tall houses floating on the water after the high tide, the lights on fishing boats returning from the depths of the ocean, the residents watching Chaozhou TV and listening to Chaozhou music. ...

At night, I don't know what kind of * * * sounds and reverie will be caused by the piano, flute and tide music coming from far and near my ancestral home in this "Chaoshan village" floating near the Straits of Malacca.