What techniques were used in the official uniforms of the Qing Dynasty?

There are many kinds of ceremonial crowns in the official uniforms of the Qing Dynasty, which are used for sacrificial ceremonies. I often see a lucky dress crown; When Yan was alive, he had a uniform crown; There is a crown when traveling and a crown when it rains. Each crown system is divided into two types: winter and summer. The crown worn in winter is called a warm hat, and in summer it is called a cool hat. The emperor was crowned, and the warm hats in winter were smoked mink and black fox. The warm hat is round, the top of the hat is arched, the brim is turned up, the hat body is decorated with red hat weft, and the top has three layers. It inherits four golden dragons and is decorated with oriental pearls and pearls. The cool hat is made of jade grass or rattan and bamboo silk, and is wrapped with yellow or white silk, which looks like a hat. The prefix of the hat is Golden Buddha, and the suffix of the hat is Sherin. It is also decorated with red hat latitude and the Oriental Pearl. The top of the hat is the same as that of the warm hat. The royal crowns of princes, princes, Zhen Guogong, etc. Generally, it is similar to the emperor's hat, except that the number of top-level hats and the number of decorations such as oriental pearls are decreasing by grade. The emperor's auspicious clothing crown is worn by sea dragon, smoked mink and mink at different times in winter. The hat is also decorated with red tassels, and the top of the hat is a golden pedestal with a big pearl on it. Summer cool hats are still made of jade grass or rattan and bamboo silk. In the red gauze, the azurite piece is inlaid with gold edge, and the crown is the same as the auspicious crown in winter. The difference between the service crowns is that there is red flannel on the hat crown, commonly known as abacus knot, no beam, and the rest are the same service crowns. The crown wears black fox or black sheepskin and blue velvet in winter, and the rest are used as regular crowns. In summer, rattan and bamboo silk are used as hats, lined with red yarn. Put Zhu Mao on it. The hat top and beam are yellow, and there is a pearl on the front. The styles of the imperial crowns of officials in civil and military affairs are basically the same, and the difference in grades lies in the different fur materials used in the crowns of different dynasties in winter. The main difference lies in the difference between the crown beads on the golden pedestal and the feathers under the crown beads. This is the "Dai Hualing" that Qing officials showed their identity. The material and color of Ding Zhu vary according to the rank. One is made of red stone, the other is made of coral, the third is made of sapphire, the fourth is made of lapis lazuli, the fifth is made of crystal stone, the sixth is made of dragonfly (1230:chēqúChequ, a big shellfish from the South China Sea, which was called one of the seven treasures in ancient times), the seventh is made of pure gold, and the seventh is the seventh.

Pattern, golden top without decoration, nine-product carved pattern, golden top. In the eighth year of Yongzheng (A.D. 1730), the official crown system was changed, and the gemstones were replaced with glass of the same color. After the Qianlong period, the top beads of these crowns were basically replaced by transparent or opaque glass, which were called Mingding and Nieding. For example, one product is called Bright Red Top, another product is called Nie Red Top, the third product is called Bright Blue Top, the fourth product is called Nie Blue Top, the fifth product is called Bright White Top, and the sixth product is called Nie White Top. As for the seven, it was also replaced by brass. There is a two-inch long feather tube under the tripod column, which is made of jade, jade or enamel and porcelain, and is used for inserting feather branches. There are blue feathers and flower feathers. Blue feathers are made of stork feathers. Blue, long and eyeless feathers are lower than flower feathers. Hualing is a peacock feather with dazzling eyes.

"Dizziness" is commonly known as "eyes". There are monocular, binocular and tricuspid eyes at the end of feathers, and the ones with more eyes are the most expensive. In the eighteenth year of Shunzhi (A.D. 166 1), it was stipulated that Hualing was not allowed to be worn by princes, county kings, Baylor and royalty, but could be worn below Beizi. It will be formulated later: Beizi wears a dazzling feather; Lord protector and Heshuo wear double-eyed feathers on their foreheads; The home secretary, the first, second, third and fourth guards, the vanguard and the guards commanders all wear a flower feather. At the beginning of the Qing Dynasty, Hualing was priceless, and only people with outstanding achievements could enjoy it. During the reign of Emperor Kangxi, Shi Lang, the magistrate of Fujian Province, took the lead in pacifying Taiwan Province Province, and sealed the Jinghai Lake in the marsh, unchanged. Shi Lang, on the other hand, neglected to talk to the Marquis and begged him to wear Hualing as the interior minister. After discussion in the Ministry, overseas generals and magistrates did not set a precedent for Ling. Finally, it was specially ordered to wear by Emperor Kangxi. The hereditary marquis changed a feather, indicating that the flower feather was valuable at that time. And "Dai Huayu" has become a prominent symbol of Qing officials. After the middle of Qing Dynasty, Hualing gradually depreciated. After Daoguang and Xianfeng, the national financial resources were insufficient. In order to open up financial resources and openly sell official titles and titles, as long as donors are willing to pay, they can donate to a certain level of official titles, put on considerable official uniforms, honor their families and oppress local people. After the death of Qin Keqing in the novel A Dream of Red Mansions in the Qing Dynasty, Jia Zhen donated a five-product dragon captain to Jia Rong with 1000 silver because Jia Rong was only a diploma from imperial academy, imperial academy, which made the funeral look much better (the thirteenth time in A Dream of Red Mansions). Feather branches, which are extremely rare in the early Qing Dynasty, are also clearly marked for sale at this time. At the beginning, Guangdong foreign businessmen Wu and Pan Shicheng donated tens of thousands of gold. There is no reward in the court, and Dai Hualing is rewarded. Since then, the military in coastal areas has flourished, and the wind of donating feathers has become more prosperous. Henaan twelve thousand silver, green feather five thousand two hundred. In the future, there will be a discount for donating officials, and the number is very small, so many people donate. In the ninth year of Xianfeng (AD 1859), feather donation was changed to real silver, and no discount was allowed. Flower feathers are 7000 Liang and blue feathers are 4000 Liang. At this time, the hualing has actually changed its taste. But its role as a symbol of honor still exists. Until the end of the Qing Dynasty, Li Hongzhang was commended by Cixi for his contribution to westernization.

Second, the official uniforms of the Qing Dynasty.

The official uniform system in Qing Dynasty also reflected the characteristics of social and political system in Qing Dynasty. The rulers of the Qing Dynasty conquered the decadent Ming Dynasty by riding and shooting. In order to maintain rule and consolidate political power, we must not forget this basic principle. Reflected in the clothing laws and regulations, "don't forget the ancestral system" is also used as a warning. In the second year (A.D. 1628), Emperor Taizong of the Qing Dynasty said to the kings and Baylor, "Our country takes riding and shooting as its profession. If we don't kiss bows and arrows, what is the reason for military preparation? " Shooter, the method of performing martial arts; Those who have been surrendered are all classics of the founding of the country. After that, everyone who set out to hunt in other places promised to bring casual clothes, and the rest were ordered to follow the custom at the beginning of the founding of the People's Republic and still bring clothes. And I want future generations not to change and abandon the ancestral system easily. "As a customized official costume of the Qing Dynasty, it was decided by Emperor Qianlong. Beijing has been the capital of the Qing Dynasty for nearly a hundred years. Until the end of the Qing Dynasty, there was no big change in the official uniform system. This is a set of extremely detailed and specific rules, and it is not allowed to go beyond the rules, but only to "dress according to the rules". "From the emperor, empresses to civil and military officials, as well as Jinshi and Juren. You must take the exam according to your grades.

Third, embroidered robes.

Embroidered robes, also known as "flowered clothes". The python is close to the shape of a dragon, but Buron, the python on the python's clothes, is in the shape of a four-claw dragon without a claw. Embroidered robes are official clothes. Princes, princes and other relatives, as well as first-class to seventh-class officials, all have embroidered robes, which vary according to their clothing colors and the number of pythons. For example, the embroidered robe of the prince is golden yellow, and the embroidered robe of the prince is blue or stone blue, all embroidered with nine pythons. The official embroidered eight to five pythons from grade one to grade seven, and golden yellow is not allowed. There are no pythons below level 8. All officials must wear embroidered robes to attend the three major festivals, getting started, winning victories and other gifts.

Fourth, the yellow jacket.

In the Qing dynasty, there was also a yellow jacket, which was the dress of more distinguished and favored people. Ministers who patrol the retinue, such as the commander-in-chief, the minister of the imperial palace, the king of the imperial palace and the captain of the bodyguard, are all allowed to wear yellow mandarin jackets and bright yellow mandarin jackets. The official dress of Zhenghuangqi is golden yellow. The emperors of the Qing Dynasty paid special attention to the "yellow jacket", which was often used to reward ministers, senior military commanders with military achievements and civilian officials in charge of the army. The recipients also regard it as a great honor. Reward yellow jacket can also be divided into "reward yellow jacket" and "reward wearing yellow jacket". "Reward" is just a gift, and "reward" can be taken on time by yourself, not limited to gifts. For example, a yellow jacket was given to the prefect section during Qianlong. Duan is an official in Gubeikou. He used to be a follower of Jehol. Emperor Qianlong summoned him and saw that his hair and beard were all white. He asked him if he could still ride horses and shoot arrows. Duan replied: "Riding and shooting is also the duty of a military minister. Although he is old, he can still bend the arc first across the saddle. " Emperor Qianlong hung a mandarin duck in front of the palace and ordered Duan to test the fire. Duan Yi hit the mandarin duck with an arrow, which made him very happy. In order to reward his martial arts, he was given a yellow jacket. By the middle and late Qing Dynasty, many people had won this honor, including Sang Linqin, Zuo and Li Hongzhang.

Five, women's crown clothing

The most advanced women's dresses are the queen, the empress dowager, the prince, the county king Fujin (Manchu "wife", translated as "madam"), Baylor, the royal ladies such as Zhen Guogong, Fu Guogong, Princess and Princess, and Pin Guan's wife, etc. Similar to men's wear, but the crown is slightly different. There are two kinds of crowns: Chao Guan and Ji Fu Guan, which are divided into winter and summer. The Empress Dowager and the Empress Chao are crowned with great wealth. Smoked mink in winter, green velvet in summer, decorated with red hat weft, three floors above, one Oriental Pearl on each floor, golden phoenix back. The crown is decorated with seven golden phoenix, and each phoenix is decorated with nine oriental pearls, an opal and 2 1 pearl. On the back, there are 302 pearls. There is a lapis lazuli knot in the middle and coral at the end. There are two bright yellow bands hanging on the collar behind the crown, and both ends are decorated with jewels. The crown ornaments of royal women and women living below the queen decreased in turn. Jinzhai is the crown of the rulers, and green satin is the belt. Prince Fujin turned golden phoenix into a golden peacock, and differentiated the grades according to the quantity and quality of jewelry. Crown ornaments also include gold contracts, earrings and other ornaments. The gold contract is used to make an appointment and is worn under the crown, which is also a unique crown ornament for aristocratic women in the Qing Dynasty. Jin Yue is a carved gold ring decorated with moire patterns and inlaid with oriental pearls, pearls, corals and turquoise. Earrings, according to the regulations of the Qing Dynasty: "Three on the left and three on the right, two on the golden dragon." It turns out that the traditional custom of Manchu women is to wear three pliers in one ear, which is different from Han women. That is to say, when Manchu women were young, they had to make three small holes in their earlobes, wear three earrings and drill three earrings in a small earlobe, so their pain was obvious. The burden of the queen's earrings is tantamount to a punishment. However, the rulers of Manchu enjoyed it and repeatedly stressed that it was not allowed to change. Emperor Qianlong wrote a letter to Chongqing for this purpose: "Mrs. Qi wears three pliers in one ear, which is the old Manchu style and cannot be changed." I choose to see those girls who wear collars, all with a pendant and a clip attached to one ear, but not Manchuria, so it is forbidden to set up a bank "(Tsui Hark's" Clearing Money "). Even during the Republic of China, some women in Manchuria still followed this bad habit.

Sixth, men's wear in Qing Dynasty

Generally speaking, men's clothes include robes, jackets, coats, shirts and trousers. Robe, also known as cheongsam, was originally the most representative costume of Manchu. After the Qing soldiers entered the customs, under the command of "shaving their heads and changing clothes", the Han nationality quickly changed the original clothing style with wide robes and big sleeves to this robe. Cheongsam has therefore become the national uniform and the clothing of men, women and children all year round. It can be made into sheets, clips, leather and cotton to adapt to different climates. The style of cheongsam is round neck, big waist, flat sleeves and split. With the development of society, cheongsam is also evolving, especially for women. The general trend is more in line with the needs of people's real life. In the Republic of China, this kind of robe was still a dress for some formal occasions. Matching the robe is a coat, which covers the robe. Originally, it was a kind of coat that was often worn when riding horses. Because it is convenient to ride a horse, it is called "jacket". Its type is round neck, with slits and buttons, only waist-length. Mandarin jackets are also divided into single, clip, leather and cotton. At the beginning of Manchu customs, only the Eight Banners soldiers wore official uniforms. At the end of Kangxi (A.D. 1662- 1722), rich children began to wear them. Yongzheng

There are double-breasted jacket styles, large-breasted jacket styles and pipa jacket styles. One of them is called the Victory Jacket, which has square sleeves. At first, it was only used to carry luggage. Since Fu Heng (1) conquered Jinchuan, I have loved its convenience, and I often wear it at ordinary times, and it became all the rage. Fur-turned mandarin jackets are the clothes of dignitaries. Vests were very popular in the Qing Dynasty. The vest evolved from the "half arm" of the Han nationality. Collarless and sleeveless double-breasted buttons make it easy to put on and take off. Some also wear them outside their robes for decoration. In the Qing dynasty, vests were very particular about materials and workmanship, and their styles changed greatly. "Batulu" vest is quite special. "Batulu" means "warrior" in Manchu. Its style is like the "one-word vest" in the south, with rows of buttons in front and buttons under the armpits on both sides. At that time, in A Dream of Red Mansions in Beijing, it was written that Jia Baoyu invited all the sisters to see the snow scene in Lu Xueting, and Baoyu "wore an eggplant-colored fox fur and a sea dragon eagle coat" (the 49th time of A Dream of Red Mansions). Children of the Eight Banners often wear this kind of "eagle coat" when riding horses to demonstrate the wind. Vest has both decorative function and practical value, and it is still a favorite dress. Long gowns and robes were the main clothes for men in Qing Dynasty, while officials wore two slits. Another kind of gown that can't be opened in winter is called "wrapped circle", which is a citizen's costume and is often used as a daily casual dress by officials and gentry. Clothing in the Qing Dynasty was rich in colors, and there were few restrictions from the imperial court except that people were not allowed to use yellow and fragrant colors (colors between yellow and green). However, people's preferences and social preferences even affect the inner court of the palace; In the mid-Qianlong period, rose purple was highly respected, and people loved it as a "prosperous time", so red, Zhen Hong, Bordeaux and pink around red became the first choice colors for men, women and children. At the end of Qianlong period, Fu Kang 'an (1) liked to wear crimson color, and people rushed to follow suit, calling it "auspicious color". "Fu" not only represents crimson color, but also contains blessings. People are willing to get happiness by wearing "Fu" color clothes, so crimson is all the rage again. At the end of Jiaqing (A.D. 1796- 1820), light gray, bright gray and silver gray appeared again. In the Qing dynasty, men wore hats all year round regardless of age, which may be related to Manchu customs. There are hats and caps. Top hats are divided into warm hats and cool hats. Warm hats are used in cold seasons. This is a round hat made of satin, woolen cloth and felt. The brim is rolled up about two inches wide, and fur or woolen cloth is inlaid according to the weather. Cool hat, shaped like a hat, is made of bamboo and rattan. The cap, the most common one, is a melon-skin cap, which is made by stitching six petals. It is melon-shaped and hemispherical with a knot woven by red or black silk at the top. In order to distinguish the front from the back, there is an obvious sign in the middle of the brim called "the hat is straight". For the sake of beauty, some noble brothers hang a red silk rope tassel more than a foot long on their pimples called "red ribbon". This shape has also changed. In the early years of Xianfeng (A.D.1851-1861), "Mao Zheng" had been rejected by ordinary people. For convenience, the top of the hat was pointed. The hat is a soft tire that can be folded in your arms. The felt hats worn by ordinary market vendors and farmers also followed the style of the previous generation. In winter, people often wear hoods, also known as "Guanyin pocket", which is named after the hood worn by Guanyin Bodhisattva. In the Qing dynasty, men wore shoes in casual clothes and boots in public clothes. Boots are mostly made of black satin with pointed ends. According to the regulations of the Qing Dynasty, only officials wearing Hanbok were allowed to wear square boots.

Seven, women's clothing

Women's wear in Qing Dynasty can be divided into Manchu and Han nationality. Manchu women generally wear robes; Han women are still dominated by dresses and skirts.

After the middle of Qing dynasty, they also imitated each other. Manchu women's robes, round neck, big breasts and flat cuffs, are long enough to cover their feet. A short or long waistcoat is often worn outside. Most of the robes of aristocratic women are decorated with dragons and pythons, but they are generally embroidered with silk. Sleeves, skirts, ruffles, etc. Are inlaid with colorful tapestries or colorful teeth. Manchu women's cheongsam is still popular with "big sleeves", which are longer than hands. The lower half of the sleeve is embroidered with color, and patterns of different colors are drawn from the sleeve surface to show another style and aesthetic feeling. The separation of collar and robe is another feature of cheongsam in the early Qing Dynasty. Women also need to wear collars to wear cheongsam. This is a ribbon about two inches wide, wrapped around the neck, with one end tucked in a big skirt and the other hanging down like a scarf. By the Tongzhi and Guangxu periods (A.D. 1862- 1908), leaders' robes and gowns appeared gradually, and there were collars at waistcoats. The height of the collar is also changing. After the Republic of China, there were no gowns and jackets without collars. This robe later evolved into cheongsam, the main clothing of Han women.

Eight, Manchu women's clothing in Qing Dynasty

Manchu women's shoes are very distinctive. With wood as the sole, the sole is extremely high, similar to today's high heels, except that the high heels are in the middle of the shoes. Usually one or two inches high, it will increase to four or five inches later. Wide from top to bottom, round in the middle, like a flowerpot, hence the name "flowerpot bottom". Some are cut into horseshoes at the bottom, so it is also called "horseshoe bottom". Most vamps are satin, embroidered with patterns, and soles are coated with white powder. Rich women also set gems around their heels. This kind of sole is particularly strong, and shoes are often worn out, but the sole can be reused. Brides and young women wear more clothes. Generally, little girls start to use high soles when they are thirteen or fourteen years old. In the late Qing dynasty, wearing robes and flowerpot shoes has become a kind of clothing in the Qing palace. Han women's clothing changes less than men's clothing, generally wearing cloaks, coats and skirts. A cloak is a kind of coat, which acts like a man's jacket. It is shaped like a double-breasted shirt with big sleeves, reaching down to the knee. Cloak with low collar, some dotted with all kinds of jewelry. Inside are tops and skirts. At the beginning of the skirt, the legacy of the Ming Dynasty was retained, such as the phoenix tail skirt and the yuet skirt. Later, with the passage of time, the skirt style also developed continuously, resulting in many new skirt styles, such as a kind of "ink play skirt", also known as "ink play skirt", which printed black flowers on light-colored silks and satins with elegant colors, which was very popular with women. In the future, there will be ribbons decorated on skirts, bells tied under skirts, and waterlines embroidered at the bottom of skirts. The skirt moves with the human body and is extremely beautiful. During the Tongzhi period (A.D. 1862- 1874), the popular "fish-scale pleated skirt" was a development of the traditional pleated skirt, that is, silk threads were crossed and connected in series between the pleats, and the skirt was like a fish scale when unfolded, which was novel and colorful. The length of skirts and shirts also changes from time to time. In the early Qing dynasty, it still followed the legacy of Jiajing in the Ming Dynasty, with long coats and short skirts without feet. After the late Qing Dynasty, clothes and skirts became shorter and shorter, with clothes reaching the hips and skirts above the feet. After the Revolution of 1911, the changes were even greater, especially for intellectual women, who wore small round lapels and long pleated skirts. Harmonious colors, dignified and elegant, exquisite and elegant. In the late Qing dynasty, it was popular to wear pants instead of skirts in the south. Most trousers are made of satin embroidered with patterns. There is also a vest that can reach the knee and is inlaid with piping. Some fur coats worn in winter have fur exposed inside, which is called "out front". After the mid-Qing Dynasty, women wore ponchos in winter, as well as foreign-style coats, and some of them followed the cloud shoulders of the Ming Dynasty.

Nine, gfd

The hairstyle of Manchu women has changed greatly, and in childhood, it is almost the same as that of boys. A Dream of Red Mansions describes the ostentation and extravagance of Jia Mu's eightieth birthday. Mrs. Xing and Mrs. Wang stood behind them with several daughters-in-law of Youfeng's family and two geese. "... twelve little girls of the same color, all dressed as servants, hung their hands to wait on them (seventy-first time in A Dream of Red Mansions). The little girl with no head is a girl in men's clothing. When a girl becomes an adult, she only wears a small bun on her forehead or a braid hanging behind her head. Married women have a lot of buns, and their heads are big to the top of their heads. The curled heads are upturned from their foreheads. "Two heads" is a typical hairstyle of Manchu women. This hairstyle straightens the neck and can't be twisted at will, which makes it look dignified and steady. Most people who wear this bun are upper-class women. Generally speaking, Manchu women comb their heads more, that is, they comb two flat steamed buns horizontally around the top of their heads, which seems to be wishful across the back of their heads. Professional women just tie their hair to their heads. Later, influenced by the Chinese bun, some combed the bun into a flat shape, commonly known as "prefix". By the end of the Qing Dynasty, this bun grew taller and taller, just like a memorial arch, named "Da La Yi". The bun jewelry of Han women generally followed the Ming style in the early Qing Dynasty, and then the changes gradually increased. In the mid-Qing Dynasty, the hairstyles of Manchu maids were all imitated, and the high bun was the most important. Divide the hair into two sections, commonly known as "fork head". Some people hang a lock of hair behind their heads and make it into two sharp corners, which is called "dovetail". Later, bun, flat bun and wishful bun became popular. In addition, there are many fake steamed stuffed buns, such as butterflies, arhats, swallows, eight-faced Guanyin and so on. In the late Qing Dynasty, there were Suzhou unique, Babatou, chain steamed stuffed bun, twist and other styles. The girl combs the pearl head of mussels, or it is hollow left and right.

Winged hairstyle, or just a braid hanging down the back of your head. Later, braiding gradually became popular and became the main hairstyle for young and middle-aged women. Headdress, a "Zhaojun set" commonly used by northern women in winter, is made of mink and covered on the forehead. Granny Liu saw in A Dream of Red Mansions that "Xifeng always wore a mink robe to show her respect for her husband and surrounded it with pearls" (the sixth episode of A Dream of Red Mansions), and that's how she dressed up. Wearing it is still very popular in Jiangnan, decorated with pearls or embroidery, and placed between the forehead and ears. There are hairpin ornaments on the bun, which are made of gold, silver, pearl jade and jade. Some are made into the shape of a phoenix, and pearls hang down, just like walking in ancient times. Others are made into various flower shapes, swaying slightly when walking, gorgeous and moving.