What is the contact number of Bangda Grassland?

Bangda Grassland Contact Information: 0891-6650849

Bangda Grassland Attractions Introduction:

The Ancient Tea Horse Road leaves Zuogong and is famous for its many beauties. After passing through the Tiantuo Valley of Yuqujiang River, I was suddenly lost in the boundless Bangda Grass Dam. It was a vast, undulating, majestic and vast wilderness. Tibetans call this wilderness Bangda. How big is the Bangda Prairie? I'm afraid no one can tell for sure now, because it spans five or six counties, and many places are completely uninhabited. It is said that it is so big that even birds cannot fly beyond its borders. The caravans just call it 500 Miles of Grass Dam.

It is a prairie that is both fascinating and scary, with an average altitude of more than 4,200 meters. In summer, the grasslands are full of swamps, with meltwater and rain from the snowy mountains flowing everywhere. When it doesn't rain on the plateau, it pours down, the sky is dark, and sometimes there is hail. The melted water and rain from the snow-capped mountains slowly gathered into countless streams, and finally flowed into Yuquli. This scene is like flying ribbons on the endless grassland. At the end of the distant horizon are gentle and ever-changing hills. When returning from Lhasa in autumn, Caoba is often covered with heavy snow, and the boundless wilderness seems lifeless. Even the crows everywhere hide their figures.

Sometimes I look back and see that in the vast and silent white wilderness, the caravans are just a string of small black dots. They move slowly like a group of ants, seeming to move objects heavier than themselves. Carry a lot of things back to your home. The huge snowfield formed a unique natural landscape, which further highlighted the courage and perseverance of the caravans to venture forth.

In this large Caobazi, there is only a small village called Bangda and a Lamasery. Because it is located in the middle of the Yunnan-Tibet and Sichuan-Tibet roads, some businesses have been set up here. At this point, a person is sent to guard the area, responsible for handing over the goods and finding yaks for short legs. There is now a military depot and a transportation station built at the intersection, a few miles away from Bangda Township. There are also snack shops opened by military families and Sichuanese at the intersection. The houses there were all roofed with iron sheets, and the front and back of the houses were littered with beer bottles and rusty military cans. There are also some nomadic herdsmen on the grassland. Each family has a yak felt tent, scattered here and there in the lush areas of water and grass. When they see someone passing by, they wave and shout from a distance. It's okay. It's just that they are too lonely. The Tibetan mastiff they tied in front of the tent roared even more.

Thirty or forty kilometers from Bangda to Qamdo, the wilderness appears wider. During India's war with China in the 1960s, the People's Liberation Army rushed to repair a military airport here, and more than a dozen soldiers sacrificed their lives for it. When I passed by here in 1993, it was raining and I walked around their monument. After years of erosion by wind, frost, rain, snow and sunshine on the plateau, this monument has become very ancient, as old as a lost myth. It stood there, looking at the endless runway of the airport and the endless wet wasteland. The runway was brightly exposed on the wilderness, and it felt strange.

At that time, Bangda Airport was being expanded. Soldiers, civilian workers, vehicles and the sound of explosions made this wasteland that had been silent for many years agitated. Later, I saw in the newspaper that Bangda Airport was opened to traffic. It was a great thing. The altitude of Bangda Airport is much higher than that of Lhasa Airport. I think it is probably the highest airport in China. I wonder how its transportation situation is. The caravans who trekked on the Tea Horse Road probably could not have imagined that there would be a modern airport in that wilderness.

Despite the airport, the Bonda wilderness is still desolate and desolate. Even on summer nights, the temperature there seems to freeze the bone marrow into ice. Black clouds covered the grassland tightly, the mist was steaming, and the wind was miserable. From time to time there were two flashes of lightning in the distance, which were pitifully small. Back then, in this wasteland, the only heat was exhaled by the caravans. In the past, the road into Tibet was divided into three roads as far as Bangda, all the way to Qamdo, Leiwuqi, and Nagqu. The caravans used to call it the Great North Road. From Linzhi, you can go north to Gongbujiangda, or go south into the Yarlung Zangbo River Valley, and pass through Jiacha, Zedang, Gonggar, and Qushui to Lhasa. In 1923, at the age of 55, the famous French Tibetologist and explorer Davinier set foot on this road from Yunnan and finally entered Lhasa, accompanied by his adopted son Yongden Lama.

There is even a road that goes directly from Zhayu in the Yuqu River Valley, no longer going north to Bangda Grassland, but going west through Ranwu and Bomi in southern Tibet, to Gongbojangda and Lhasa. This is of course the shortest straight line. But it is said that this road is extremely difficult and dangerous, and it is impossible for caravans to pass, so no one dares to walk. But there must be people taking this road among the people. According to Davinier's description in her "The Adventures of a Parisian Woman in Lhasa", after they entered the Parlong Zangbo Canyon, they met many pilgrims. Some of them are coming from southern Tibet. They only need to cross the Bosula Mountains to reach Ranwu and Bomi. Zhao Yingxian also remembered that Bomi’s musk was the best. There are virgin forests on both sides of Palong Zangbo from ancient times to the present. This road was extremely difficult and dangerous, sparsely populated and infested with wild animals. At that time, few people dared to take this route, and almost no caravans took this route. The current Sichuan-Tibet Southern Line passes through this line, but it is messed up by mudslides every year and becomes impassable. Precisely because of its difficulty and danger, the scenery in that area is very magnificent. It is not an exaggeration to describe it as a fairyland on earth.

When I walked that road in 1989, I was shocked by the beauty I had never seen before. The mountains on both sides of Palong Zangbo are completely covered by primeval forests. The river water is dark and black, as if it has solidified. It is silent, and the heavy and cool undercurrent is eerie and scary. There are many big trees in the forest that can only be hugged by several people. The bushes under the trees are cold and damp, and there are countless snakes lurking there. You can seem to hear them sticking out their tongues. From time to time, some mesmerizingly beautiful birds fly over the water, and their chirping is the real sound of nature. The third road goes directly west from Bangda, which is the long and vast Bangda grassland (the caravans call it Changcaoba or 500-mile Changgangzi), which extends past Guoqing to the Mopola Pass at an altitude of 4,800 meters. Down. Of course, I found out the altitude later. It is said that the mountain pass is not difficult to walk, and a horse driver in good health can jump like a monkey on the mountain pass.

The caravans entering Tibet from Sichuan came out of Kangding and passed through Litang and Batang, passing the Chaya people who were not to be offended (people in Tibetan areas generally think that Chaya people are rough and barbaric), or from Daofu and Lu Huo, Ganzi, Dege, and then to Qamdo (formerly known as Chamuduo). Most of them did not take the Great Northern Route, but arrived at Wahezhai or Enda, which merged with the Yunnan-Tibet Road and crossed the Nu River from Jiayu Bridge. , going west to Luolongzong, Bianba, Jiali and Gongbujiangda, and finally to Lhasa. This is the traditional official way. Arriving at Changcao Dam in Bangda, the population became increasingly sparse. Except for a few dark tents of herdsmen, the caravans often faced desolate wilderness, and their only fuel was the cow dung they picked up along the way.

At that time, there were many animals and beasts in the wilderness of Tibet, especially the Bangda Grassland. On the vast grasslands, you can often see herds of Tibetan antelopes. They have long, pointed black horns. The dogs brought by the caravans get very excited when they see them. They bark and chase them wildly. They are frightened. The antelope jumped through the caravan and escaped at an alarming speed that the dogs could not catch up with. Half a century later, I passed through that area many times, and there was no trace of the Tibetan antelope at all. They were probably pretty much hunted. There are still a certain number of Tibetan antelopes surviving in northern Tibet. Suddenly, it became fashionable in the Western world to wear clothes made of Tibetan antelope cashmere. The price of Tibetan antelope cashmere suddenly became more expensive than gold, so the Tibetan antelopes suffered. They were brutally hunted. , even though they have already become nationally protected animals. Therefore, humans are the most ferocious animals on earth. Their endless greed and demand have led to the extinction of many creatures and the rapid deterioration of the earth's ecology. In addition to the terrible wolves, there are also beasts like bears and leopards in Bonda.

On some quiet nights, the caravans can hear earth-shattering roars. Experienced people will know that it is the roar of a tiger who has had a feast of meat and comes to the river to drink water. Although the caravans all carry guns, they all know that they may not be effective. If ferocious beasts like bears and leopards cannot be killed with one shot, they will pounce on them at all costs, which is terrible. It is said that even if they are unable to fight at the time, they will remember the enemy who attacked them afterwards, and then wait for an opportunity to retaliate. The beast has its own laws. Poor mules and horses, they tremble with fear at the mere scent of a leopard or an old bear. Therefore, the caravans never shoot at those beasts easily, although they often see leopards and bears.

Zhao Yingxian saw tigers several times. But one thing is, as long as these beasts are not provoked, they generally will not take the initiative to provoke the caravan. But no one can guarantee that there will be no exceptions. During the years when he was walking on the Tibetan grassland, Zhao Yingxian had a Tibetan horse rider who ran to Zilan. Zhao Yingxian can no longer remember his name. That's one unlucky guy. He worked hard to drive horses on the Tea Horse Road, and his dream was to have his own mule one day. This reminds me of the story of Camel Xiangzi written by Mr. Lao She. His fate was similar to that of Luotuo Xiangzi. He is a very capable and capable horseman, and he can drive 12 mules and horses every time. Because of his outstanding performance, his boss and his boss specially gave him a mule as a reward. This made the horseman extremely happy. He finally had his own mule. Even though it was just one mule, the first one would lead to a second one. One day he might become the horse boss of his own caravan. head.

Zhao Yingxian took this horse with his own mule and set foot on the snow-capped mountains and grasslands again. The caravans on the front lines of Yunnan and Tibet all have this rule: you can help big merchants drive the caravan, or you can put the mules given to you by the boss into the caravan and walk together, and the fodder will be spent together in the caravan. If you are carrying the owner's goods, you can get a share of the freight. If you are carrying goods that you paid for yourself, all the money you earn belongs to you; the horse rider also has to drive other horses and earn a wage. . This is how the business owner takes care of the horse driver. These bosses themselves developed in this way. In their words, if you want to change money yourself, you should also let others change money. The merchants and horse pot heads on the Tea Horse Road generally have this kind of tolerance.

But the man who had his own mule was not so lucky. One day they walked to Bangda and went to a place called Douzili. As usual, they set up camp and opened fire. As usual, the horsemen fired a burst of gunfire before going to bed to scare away the wild beasts. However, something strange happened that night: a leopard broke into the caravan's camp and killed a mule without making any sound, and that mule happened to be the one with the unique foot of the horse. Among the forty or fifty mules, the damn leopard only chose the damn mule with the horse's leg. It can only be said that the horse's leg was unlucky.

It was not necessarily bad luck for the mule, but perhaps a kind of relief - a relief from the endless hard labor.

The mule's throat was bitten off and left there, but the leopard did not eat it. That's not because it's not hungry, but because leopards like to eat smelly meat and wait until the dead mule smells bad before they come back for a full meal. When he saw the body of his mule the next morning, the horseman cried sadly, just like Xiangzi's car had been robbed by the soldiers. At that time, a good mule was worth a hundred and a half kilograms of silver dollars. The horseman worked hard for many years and finally got a mule of his own, but he was mauled to death by a leopard. This is probably life, right? Later, the horseman had no choice but to distribute his goods to others, and he had to continue his caravan journey. Zhao Yingxian had no way of knowing whether he had his own mule later.

In the past, it was common to see leopards on the Tea Horse Road, and even more old bears. They generally don't dare to mess with the caravans, because the caravans all carry guns, and they have to burn a bonfire at night and fight a few times before going to bed. However, no raw meat can be placed in the camp, and no animals can be killed, otherwise the beasts will rush in regardless of the slightest smell of fishy smell. It is said that the caravans walking in the jungles of southern Yunnan have a unique trick. Before going to bed, they sprinkle a handful of grass fruits and star anise in the campfire, so that no wild beasts dare to approach. In addition to wild animals, there were wild yaks and wild horses in the grassland at that time. In the barren grassland, they were once the masters there. There are place names like Big Buffalo Valley and Big Wild Horse Beach. Now, except for some Tibetan antelopes, yellow sheep and Tibetan pheasants, wild yaks and wild horses are almost extinct.

Hunting is strictly prohibited on the sacred mountains of Tibet, but Han and Naxi caravans are not included in this and they have no control over it. There are a lot of wild animals in Tibet, such as snow chickens, white pheasants, blue sheep, rabbits, marmots, etc. Zhao Yingxian and the others can hunt them secretly without letting the Tibetans know. Calling can improve a meal. Because Tibetans believe in Buddhism and do not kill animals casually, there is no such thing as hunting. If they secretly kill any animals, it would be a very serious matter, and the chieftain, chieftain or living Buddha would severely punish them. Even if they see a little chieftain, a leader or a lama, they can't even raise their heads. That system is very cruel. Yunnan's Ma Guotou can be compared with these Tusi Tou people. They can also put the things they bring casually. When the weather is hot, they will take off Chuba and put it on the roadside and press it with a stone. No one will touch it. Even very valuable things, such as baskets and so on, can be left casually and no one will touch them. On that magical plateau, the caravans not only witnessed the cruel systems of Tibetan society, but also witnessed the kindness and beauty of the Tibetan people and the various misfortunes they suffered. They also witnessed many strange and incredible things.

It is worth mentioning that once the caravans on the Tibetan grassland set out on the road, they had no vegetables to eat. When you get to a place like Bangda, there is only grass. Most areas in Tibet are high and cold, making it impossible to grow vegetables, and Tibetans have no habit of growing vegetables. Besides, you spend most of your time walking in deserted places, so where can you find vegetables? Zhao Yingxian and others brought some cabbage, radish, and pumpkin seeds from Lijiang and planted them in Zhayu. When we went there 50 years later, we could eat vegetables in the villages along the Yuqu River, including cabbage, pumpkins, potatoes, and even green peppers. I wonder if it was all thanks to the caravans? However, when Zhao Yingxian and others were walking on the Tibetan grassland, there were a lot of wild vegetables on the Ancient Tea Horse Road. All the way from Yunnan into Tibet, there are all kinds of wild vegetables everywhere. Horse drivers sometimes pick while walking. When the leaves bloom in the evening, they will have delicious wild vegetables to eat. If every meal consists of butter tea and tsampa, it would be a bit unacceptable for Lijiang people who usually pay attention to eating vegetables. Fortunately there are those wild vegetables. They provided a lot of vitamins to the horse drivers and also provided a rare delicacy.

In the mountains and river valleys before arriving at Bonda, there are wild onions and wild leeks everywhere, which are thinner than those grown at home and can be eaten by mules and horses. The most delicious among wild vegetables may be the fresh and tender bamboo leaf vegetables. They are bitter and cool, but also have a sweet taste. They are best eaten when cooked with bacon. Because it looks like young bamboo, hence the name. This thing only grows in watery forest glades at high altitudes. There is also a wild fruit on the plateau called Shabala, which is a thorny shrub with many fruits hanging on the branches like small lanterns. The ripe fruit is like a small red lantern. But it doesn't have a big head, just a little bit of meat under the skin, and then there's a core that's about the same size as the fruit. We were walking on the road that year, and when we were hungry and thirsty, we picked them and filled our pockets, and then we kept eating handfuls, and we could eat as much as we wanted. The ripe Shabala is purple red, very sweet, and the meat is crunchy and moist. There are many wild peaches along the way, but they are all too small and hard to eat.

When summer passes, various mushrooms are indispensable in the grasslands and forests. Of course Zhao Yingxian and the others knew what they could eat and what they couldn't eat. Those were all taught to each other by the caravans. There are matsutake mushrooms that are very popular and expensive now, and there are a bunch of mushrooms and so on. The one they often eat is white and tender. Because Lijiang doesn’t have it, it can’t be named. It’s just called white fungus. It tastes the best. A little way past Tiantuo, there is a place called Moumen by the Nu River. Grapes are produced there. Sweet grapes are as big as an index finger and are delicious.

When Zhao Yingxian lived in Bangda, he once went there to buy wine brewed by the Tibetan people there and drank it during the New Year. It was a big village with hundreds of households. There is also a kind of the best and most decent wool produced there, called Moumen Lava. Lava means woolen cloth. It is completely hand-woven. It is the best and is very famous in Lijiang. It is very popular for Lijiang people to bring some Moumen Lava as a gift wherever they go as guests. Making waistcoats for others is the best, and Naxi women like it the most.

The woolen material was fine, just like the fine woolen fabrics we have today. They would do it, it would be terrible. Many years later, Mr. Zhao was still full of praise. At that time, many families in Moumen were doing Moumen Lava, and it was usually done by women. Moumen's wool is good, which is related to the local sheep. Their wool is the best, and the cashmere is long and finer than cotton. Women use a spindle to spin thread from morning to night, and then weave it into cloth. Finally, they dye it themselves, and they dye it most often with the Tibetan favorite purple. Most lamas also wear purple-red cassocks. The most common prey that Zhao Yingxian and the others hunt is the snow chicken, whose scientific name is Tibetan horse chicken, and it is now a nationally protected animal. They usually move in groups of twenty to thirty, foraging together during the day and roosting together at night. However, there is an experienced old chicken who stays awake and is responsible for guarding the chickens. Whenever there is any movement, it will make a sound. alarm. Snow chickens are very stupid, they cannot fly high or far, they are beautiful and eye-catching, and they taste very delicious, so they naturally become the target of people's hunting. Another hunting target is the white pheasant, which is a bit big and has a squawking sound, but the meat is a bit sour. There are also rabbits, deer and so on.

Sometimes when there is no game to be caught, the horsemen dig out marmot holes, and often find surprising amounts of grass seeds and rhizomes of a plant called longevity fruit stored in them. The longevity fruit is a little smaller than peanuts and grows underground like peanuts. It is actually the grass root of a plant. It is segmented, purple-red, and some are long. It is the most delicious wild fruit on the Tea Horse Road. And the name is very good too. They can often be seen on the grasslands, and people can pick them up and eat them. It tastes better if you mix it with ghee and add some sugar.

Deqin people love to eat this wild fruit. The caravan occasionally brings some back to Lijiang, and everyone loves to eat it. It is another precious gift for relatives and friends. Whether they are entering Tibet or coming back from Tibet, the caravans never lack all kinds of rare and eccentric items in their luggage. They bring all kinds of things that are not available everywhere, which greatly broadens people's horizons and promotes various kinds of things. All kinds of communication. Zhao Yingxian saw a strange phenomenon on the Tea Horse Road: There is a bird in Tibet that lives in the same nest as a mouse, and they are very loyal to each other. When the weather is cold, the birds will carry little mice on their backs to bask in the sun. When there is nothing to eat, the mice will pick up the life-extending fruit and share it with the birds. I still think Mr. Zhao is the most honest person I have ever met. In the stories he told me about the caravan, I never found that he was adulterated. He is not the kind of person with a rich imagination, let alone the kind of guy who makes up nonsense.

Sometimes I complain that his narrative is too dry and lacks literary talent. But after hearing this story about birds and mice sharing their den, and animals on land and air joining forces, I couldn't help but widen my eyes. But the old man assured me that he had seen it with his own eyes and that it was by no means a fantasy. All the horse drivers on the Ancient Tea Horse Road knew about it. Of course I haven't seen it. I can only say that on that plateau, maybe anything is possible, and any strange natural phenomena may exist, just like there are many strange cultural phenomena there. In fact, just like humans, animals have to change their living habits to adapt to the environment in order to survive. In that vast prairie, there is not even a branch. Where can the birds build their nests? And they can't dig holes, so they have no choice but to go down to the ground to use mouse dens as nests. As for how they obtain the consent of mice and can live in peace and love and help each other, only zoologists have to study it.