It snows heavily this year! Want to shoot some snow scenes? What is the best way to shoot?

According to the form of snow, snow scene can be divided into drifting snow, snow scene and snow scene. When shooting snow, choose a snowy day with large diameter and sparse density, and use a dark background (buildings, streets, Woods, etc. ) to set off the trajectory of snow falling. Shooting snow scenes needs accurate exposure, and many complicated factors must be considered, such as weather, time, direction and angle of light, color and coverage of snow, etc. Experienced photographers will boldly increase some exposures on the basis of photometric values.

The first is the pure snow scene, even if there are people, it is also an ornament and foil in the snow scene. The most favorable opportunity and method is to use a smaller aperture when there is heavy snow, especially when there is heavy snow with goose feathers (for example, the standard lens can use f/1or the aperture can use f/ 16, and the distance scale is placed at 5 meters).

The second is to take snow (often "snow") as the scenery and people as the mainstay, forming a strong contrast between people and snow. At this time, it should be noted that the reflection of snow cannot be directly reflected on the character's face or body. When the sun leans to the ground, the rolling snow itself casts a shadow, which will increase the texture and sense of quantity. Shooting snow scenes with color films and using polarizers can, on the one hand, adjust the color of the sky, eliminate reflection and reduce the color temperature (because the color temperature is high in snowy days, blue shadows will appear); Use a hood as much as possible to prevent messy reflected light from entering the lens.

The third is that people are in snow (often "snow"), and the reflected light of snow can be reflected on people's bodies or faces. If you want to shoot in dry snow, you should pay attention to the collocation of light angle and background picture.

◆ Exposure:

Correct exposure is the most basic and key problem in shooting snow scenes. Snow is white crystal. When it is piled up on the scene, it becomes white, thus increasing the reflectivity of the scene. The part with snow in the scene is very bright, and the part without snow is very dark, which makes the contrast between the parts great. Most digital cameras get photometric values through the reflection of the scene, so if you measure the light directly against the snow scene, the picture will be very dark. At this time, you must make exposure compensation to get normal exposure.

Correct metering and exposure are the key to success in taking snow photos. In a large area of snow scene, according to the displayed data, shooting the snow scene with the internal metering system of the camera is generally underexposed. This is because the exposure meter inside the camera uses a certain program to measure the light, and the displayed data is the average light value of highlights, midtones and shadows in the integrated scene. This is feasible in most cases, but in the snow scene, the strong reflected light often makes the photometric results differ by 1-2 exposure. In this case, exposure compensation can be used to increase the exposure of 1-2 level as appropriate, or the camera can be aimed at the halftone object for local proximity measurement, and the camera can be adjusted to the "manual" position to take pictures according to the data measured at this time. It will be accurate for photographers who use the incident light exposure meter to measure the light according to the light beam on the object shining on the snow and take photos according to the exposure data obtained.

When covered with snow, due to the reflection of snow, the part with snow is bright, while the part without snow is dark, with great contrast. For most automatic cameras, metering is based on the intensity of ambient light, so the intensity of ambient background light is relatively high due to the reflection of snow, but in fact the brightness of the object is not high, which leads to inaccurate metering. At this time, direct shooting often leads to underexposure, and the scenery in broad daylight looks like night and white.

When it snows, the weather must be wet, the humidity is relatively high, and the fog may be relatively heavy. If the temperature is not low enough, the fog is mixed with liquid snowflakes, resulting in low visibility. When there is fog, the visibility is usually within 1 km. At this time, try not to use too high zoom factor, otherwise the picture will be blurred and the color will be dim. It is best to shoot at close range.

Due to the inaccurate light measurement caused by the light reflection of snow, when lighting or backlighting, you may encounter images with great contrast, such as shooting pine trees. Where there is snow, the branches without snow are particularly dark, and the overall exposure is insufficient, the effect of discharge is often black, and "heavy snow presses pine trees" becomes "dirty snow wires". Isn't it terrible?

The exposure time of most digital cameras can be manually adjusted and set at intervals of 0.5 in the range of -2.0 to +2.0. According to my experimental results, it can generally be set to around 1.0. When shooting, you can open the LCD screen. At this time, you can see the picture effect after adjusting the exposure or 1 photo taken. It is better to be bright and not dazzling, and insufficient or excessive effects are not good.

Exposure compensation is undoubtedly the biggest problem in shooting ice and snow. Over-exposure appears pale, there is no hierarchy, and under-exposure appears gloomy, losing the charm of snow. The metering system on the camera is mainly medium gray, and the ice and snow are much brighter than medium gray. If you add the reflection of sunshine on a sunny day, the exposure meter will be cheated. At this time, it is necessary to make compensation exposure, and the principle is not to increase or decrease.

If you only shoot a picture with partial snow, you'd better increase the exposure of 1, and the proportion of snow in the picture is about 1/3. If the proportion of snow in the picture is above 1/2, the exposure should be increased by 1.5 to 2 blocks; If the whole picture is full of snow and there is strong sunshine, it is necessary to compensate for 2.5 to 3 exposures. The above data are based on the average measurement method. It is not easy to meet a good opportunity to shoot snow scenes. The safest shooting method is to use the surround exposure method. Almost all EOS cameras have the function of surround exposure, which is called AEB function, that is, when shooting photometry, different exposure value will be set for three consecutive photos. If each photo is compensated in the order of 0.5, an ideal photo will always be taken.

◆ Lighting:

Light plays a very important role in photography. Many times we can't change the natural light, so we can only wait for the change of light or make rational use of it from different angles.

Because snow is a white crystal with high reflectivity, it will certainly appear brighter when the sun shines on it. Therefore, in the shooting of snow scenes, if the front light or top light is used for shooting, because of the relationship between light level and vertical illumination, not only can the snow-white fine crystals not produce light and dark levels and texture, but also the scene will lose its three-dimensional sense. Therefore, in order to show the bright and dark levels of the snow scene and the transparent texture of the snow, it is most appropriate to shoot the snow scene with backlight or backlight. However, when the backlight or side light shines on the snow scene with a large white area, the scenery with other colors not covered by snow will inevitably turn black. Therefore, in order to make the snow in the snow scene and other colors have a layered feeling, it is necessary to choose soft sunlight to shoot the snow scene.

It is better to shoot the snow scene on a sunny day after the snow, and it would be better if we could catch up with the morning light. In the sun, the use of side light and side backlight can best show the bright and dark level of snow scene and the transparent texture of snow particles, and the color tone is also rich in changes, even if it is a distant view, it can also produce a far-reaching atmosphere. If shooting people in the snow, it is best to add auxiliary light to the face and wear a hood on the camera lens. If black-and-white film is used to shoot snow scenes, dark yellow, orange yellow or yellow-green filters should be added to lower the sky tone, reduce the brightness of snow and make the scene tone soft. If you take a snow scene with a color film, it is best to use a polarizer to absorb the polarized light reflected by the snow, reduce the brightness, adjust the color tone, make the blue sky and white clouds stand out and improve the color saturation.

Generally speaking, adding an exposure compensation can achieve better results. Of course, this is not absolute, it depends on the scene environment. So play back the picture in time after shooting and judge the increase or decrease of exposure compensation. It should be noted that not all snow scenes need exposure compensation, and exposure compensation should be considered only when snow accounts for most of the area in the picture.

Be good at using flash, and use slow synchronization when necessary. Because the background light is bright, the backlight or the objects in the shadow are not bright enough, it is necessary to supplement the flash to shoot the layering, and the distance of the flash is generally limited, so be careful not to shoot too far.

◆ Shutter:

If the shutter speed of 1/30 seconds is adopted in snow shooting, the flowing feeling of snow blown by the wind can be photographed, thus increasing the line structure of the work.

If you need to take a picture of snowflakes flying all over the sky, then you should choose a deeper background to avoid background interference. At the same time, the shutter speed should not be too high, generally around1125 seconds, so that the flying snowflakes form lines and show the movement of snowflakes.

On snowy days, to take pictures of snowflakes flying, you should choose a dark background as a foil; The shutter speed should not be too high, generally 1 15 to 160 seconds is appropriate, so that the flying snowflakes form lines and feel like snowflakes falling. When shooting people in heavy snow, be careful not to let snowflakes get too close to the camera, so as not to let snowflakes block people's faces because of perspective.

◆ Reference object:

Shooting snow scenes should also make full use of branches, hedges and buildings covered with snow or ice to improve the expressive force of snow scenes, increase the spatial depth of pictures and enhance people's feelings about snow and ice.

The scenery full of snow may seem a bit dull. You can add some colorful objects to add highlights to the snow scene. For example, using pine branches covered with ice or thick snow, lampposts dotted with colorful advertising signs, or buildings as the foreground of shooting can increase the depth of space, improve the expressive force of snow scene, and enrich the connotation of the whole picture, so as not to make viewers bored because of white.

◆ Filter:

Polarizer (PL mirror) is a particularly effective auxiliary filter when shooting ice and snow. Its first function is to effectively eliminate reflection, of course, strong point reflection is not included Through this function, the degree of reflection of ice and snow can be controlled when shooting, so as to achieve the best level performance. The use method is to install the polarizer on the lens of the SLR camera, slowly rotate the polarizer, and observe the degree of reflection in the viewfinder, so as to achieve the effect you need. The second function of polarizer is to enhance the absorption of blue-violet light without affecting other colors. In this way, in clear weather, the blue sky and snow will behave well, otherwise the level of snow and ice will be lost, and the picture taken is very different from the scenery you see.

Do you still need exposure compensation when using polarizer (PL mirror)? In order to show the whiteness of ice and snow, appropriate compensation is still needed. After using polarizer, the performance of dark parts in the picture is enhanced. At this time, if the normal standard is used to increase the level compensation, the dark part will lose the level. In order to make the picture have a balanced performance, the exposure compensation after adding polarizer is better than that before adding polarizer, and 1/4 is reduced to 1/3.

Protection:

Another important problem of snow scene is to protect your equipment. Due to the low temperature and humid air in winter, such an environment is likely to affect the use of digital cameras. Therefore, it is necessary to carry out simple cold-proof and moisture-proof treatment, such as simply wrapping it in a plastic bag, which can have a good effect. When not shooting, you can put the camera in your clothes to keep warm. At the same time, we need to pay attention to the heat preservation of the battery. The battery consumes quickly at low temperature, and heat preservation can improve its service life. Of course, it is necessary to prepare more batteries. Finally, you need to pay attention to personal warmth. Clothes, hats and gloves should be ready. It is really cold in winter.

◆ Condensation:

Due to the cold weather, long-term low-temperature shooting should be avoided to prevent the machine from aging in advance. In addition, when the digital camera is taken from a cold place to a warmer place, water vapor condensation is easy to occur. At this time, the camera will be automatically protected because the camera tape sticks to the camera drum, and the recording button will temporarily fail, so it is impossible to continue shooting. So pay attention to avoid this situation.

If you have to take the digital camera from a cold place to a warmer place, such as returning to a hotel room from a ski resort, you can put the digital camera in a plastic bag first, then seal it, and then take it off when the air temperature in the bag reaches the ambient temperature, which can effectively prevent the occurrence of water vapor condensation.

If you use the viewfinder to shoot, you will encounter such a problem in the cold winter: the water vapor you exhale makes the fuselage hazy, and sometimes even the lens will be "polluted" by your water vapor, so you'd better take a soft cloth with you, clean the fuselage at any time, and wear a mask or exhale slowly when shooting. If the shooting time is short, you can also hold your breath temporarily.

Of course, if you shoot the scene with an LCD screen, there will be no such problem. However, as mentioned above, using the viewfinder can leave a lot of power, so it is wise to use the viewfinder when the battery you carry with you is tight.

Be careful not to dirty the lens.

Pay attention to moisture. If it snows, be sure to cover the camera, or it will be even more troublesome for the camera to get into the water!

◆ Battery:

Battery is another big problem when shooting snow scenes. The low temperature makes the battery consume very quickly. If the battery is half charged at 20 degrees Celsius above zero, it will be consumed immediately at 5 degrees Celsius below zero.

The use time of the battery at low temperature will be greatly shortened, so pay attention to the use time of the battery when going out to shoot in winter. We can make up for this shortcoming by the following methods. It is best to have enough spare batteries. The combined use time of two batteries should greatly extend your shooting time. When not shooting, we'd better take the battery off the fuselage and put it in a cotton pocket, which can also effectively extend the service life of the battery. In addition, using the viewfinder to shoot also saves electricity than using the LCD screen. It is recommended that you use the viewfinder to shoot when the power is tight.

Interviewee: Love to eat home-cooked meals-Manager Level 4 1-28 22:37

/tommmmmmmmy

My space has everything, all about photography.

Hehe, I also use 400d, but it doesn't snow very much in Beijing these days.

I can't tell you either, and I haven't filmed much. ....

Well ... you can use a horizontal file or an M file. When the aperture shutter is almost the same, try to use enclosed exposure. ...

Adjusting the white balance is also important. Don't let the snow change color.

I'll give you an article first

& lt Some photos taken in winter.

Winter is the most wonderful time of the year, and various climatic phenomena such as sunny days and snowstorms provide excellent photographic materials for photographers. Here are 9 good ways for you to show your talents in this winter.

1, color sense

Snow in winter can be a good theme, but a photo full of snow may look a bit boring. You can add some colorful objects to add highlights to the snow scene, such as the red car in this photo. When shooting after a snowstorm, it is a necessary element to turn this gray weather photo into a beautiful winter picture.

2. Festival lanterns

Colorful holiday lights can take colorful photos. You may think that night is the best background to set them off, so night is an ideal time to shoot lanterns. But in fact, the effect of this lens is only some colored dots on a black background. If you try to shoot at dawn or dusk in "magic time", you can also record some details in the scene, and the picture is more interesting. You must use a tripod when shooting, and the peripheral exposure method is also a good method.

3. Sunrise

In the long summer, the sun usually rises early. In winter, the sunrise is very late, which means you don't have to get up early to capture these beautiful scenery. You can measure light at the sky from the side of the sun (but don't let the sun enter the viewfinder of the camera), as an example here.

4. After the blizzard

Winter is a season with frequent snowstorms, but after the snowstorm, there will be a feeling of clear sky and Wan Li, and there will be incredible light. To shoot this kind of scenery, we must first be prepared for observation. Check the local weather forecast, grasp the time when the snowstorm will happen, and detect the places where there may be beautiful scenery.

Step 5 shoot in "bad" weather

When the weather becomes "bad", many photographers will hide indoors and complain that in fact, they are missing the opportunity to shoot, because this type of weather often produces amazing works. Don't make yourself a grouch. Equip yourself (wear multi-layer clothes), protect your equipment in harsh environment, and then find photographic materials.

6.bare branches

Colorful leaves in autumn often make photographers linger. But you shouldn't ignore trees that lose their leaves in winter. They can provide good subjects. You can shoot with a wide-angle lens under a tree, as shown in a photo here, or you can shoot with a telephoto lens in the distance. Either way, the key is to highlight the interesting part of the tree branch. If you shoot up in the middle of a tree, reduce the aperture and increase the depth of field, so that every detail in the photo can be clearly displayed.

7. icicles

Icicles will add interesting elements to photos. When shooting, you can get close to it and shoot only a part of a single icicle, or go further and shoot their surroundings. You can also walk around and shoot in the foreground or background light. When taking close-up photos, you should also try to narrow the lens aperture and increase the depth of field.

8, window filtering effect

Windows will produce all kinds of interesting changes about water in winter, such as fog and raindrops. These visible moisture can be an excellent subject in itself, and they can also be your interesting "filter". Focusing on water droplets or fog, all kinds of scenery outside the window will present various structural effects. If your camera has a preview function of depth of field, you can try various effects when changing the aperture size; Without this function, you can get three effects of maximum aperture, half aperture and minimum aperture when shooting.

9. Snow exposure

The exposure meter (including the built-in metering system) takes the medium gray density as the exposure standard. If exposed according to the reading of the exposure meter, the photos taken are gray. Snow is usually considered to be white, not gray, so when the exposure tone reaches white, the photo effect of snow is the best. At present, the omni-directional exposure meter attached to AF 35mm SLR camera can reproduce the snow scene first-class without any correction. However, for the old central exposure meter, the exposure during shooting is 1- 1/2 higher than the reading of the exposure meter. For AE mode, the exposure of files+1 to+1.5 can be compensated. If you don't compensate for the exposure, you and your exposure meter will be deceived by Snow White and the photos will be black. When you take a snow scene with your camera for the first time, you can take a step-by-step exposure, take a few photos and make records to see how much exposure you need to compensate to achieve the desired photo effect.

Depends on what you like.