Detailed comparison of routes on the north and south slopes of Yushan Mountain.

Schematic diagram of the position relationship of Mount Everest; Road map of the south slope of Mount Everest; Road map of the south slope of Mount Everest; Road map of the north slope of Mount Everest 1. Route map of south slope: Golmud Kunlun Mountain Pass: Golmud-Kunlun Mountain Pass is a Qinghai-Tibet highway. You can rent trucks directly from Golmud to the base camp, but it is recommended to do a day's adaptation at Kunlun Mountain Pass. BC: It's a beach road from Kunlun Mountain Pass to Base Camp, which is difficult to walk. Only trucks, off-road vehicles and agricultural vehicles can pass.

There are road maintenance classes and farmers about 3 kilometers east and west of Kunlun Mountain Pass. You can rent trucks and agricultural vehicles. The Qinghai-Tibet Highway at Kunlun Mountain Pass can be used for camping with water. Kunlun Mountain Pass is 20 kilometers (half an hour's drive) away from Xidatan residential area and military station, which can provide medical and logistical support. Try to start in the morning. In the afternoon, the river will flood and it is impossible to cross the river. Nanpo base camp is 5050 meters above sea level, which is an open grassland with water sources. Trucks can drive directly to BC, which is suitable for camping.

2. North Slope Route: Xidatan in Golmud: Xidatan is the nearest military station to Golmud. Because it is adjacent to the Qinghai-Tibet highway and railway, it has now developed into a rest stop for passing vehicles, and most of the materials can be replenished. There are two clinics here that can provide some medical services. Xitan is about 2-3 hours' drive from Golmud. Xidatan Base Camp BC: BC is a flat grass beach at the foot of No.2 Glacier, and the meltwater of No.2 Glacier flows by. Xidatan is about 7 ~ 8km away from BC, and the road is mainly rocky beach, which needs to pass through the meltwater of Glacier No.3 and Glacier No.2. When the road conditions are good, ordinary cars can drive on BC. There is a slope near BC. When the road conditions are bad (for example, it has just rained and snowed), the truck can't get on.

The base camp on the north slope is about 4300 meters above sea level, and it is about 6.5 kilometers away from the Qinghai-Tibet Highway and Xidatan. It takes about half an hour to drive, 65438+ goes downhill for 0.5 hours and climbs uphill for 2.5 hours. In case of emergency, you can contact the outside world and withdraw at any time. It is about 1.5km from the end of No.2 Glacier in Base Camp. The climbing route from base camp to camp 2 can be observed with a telescope. The base camp is meadow and gravel, flat and open, with sufficient water, suitable for large troops to station. As far as going into and out of the mountain is concerned, there is a signal on the mobile phone in the north slope camp, and it is about 2 hours' walk from the nearest Zhenxitan. So it is convenient to get in and out of the supply, while the south slope is more troublesome. There is no signal in the camp, and it takes 6-7 hours to walk from the nearest road, so it is inconvenient to enter and leave the mountain area.

Therefore, materials should be prepared before climbing, so that the team members can adapt and try to reduce the downward withdrawal. 2. Camp construction 1. South slope camp construction scheme: Base camp BC(5040) is located 500 meters under the glacier tongue, close to the water source. Forward camp ABC(5300) is located in a valley, on the lee side. The left snow slope can be used for basic ice and snow training. ABC can set up another camp to store alpine equipment, but it doesn't need anyone. C 1 camp (5600 meters) is relatively flat, with a slope of 10 to 15 degrees. Tents can be set up after leveling 10 or so. 2. North slope camp construction scheme: Base camp BC(4300m): The base camp is located on the meadow on the north side of Glacier No.2, 6 kilometers away from Xidatan of Qinghai-Tibet Highway, and it takes half an hour by car.

In case of emergency, you can go to Xidatan for help. It takes about 1 hour to walk from the base camp to Xidatan. There is a fixed telephone on the west coast. 1 C 1(5320m): It is built on the second cambium of Glacier No.2, with an open and flat terrain, but the ground is mainly hard ice, so it is necessary to camp with an ice cone. C2 camp (5,800 meters): It is built on the ridge, the temperature is much lower than C 1, and the ground is covered with ice and gravel.

Considering the strong wind here, in order to prevent the tent from being blown down by the wind, it is necessary to carry stones and covering materials to prevent it from being blown away by the wind.

Three. Climbing route 1. Climbing routes on the south slope: Up to now, there are three climbing routes on the south slope: the ridge route (S 1), along which the Peking University climbing team reached the summit on August 1990. The location of the base camp in the flood is the same as above. Climb along the gravel slope on the right side of the glacier, tie the crampons at the junction of rock and ice, and continue climbing the snow slope. There is a small platform in the middle of a rock ridge closest to the main peak, built in C 1, with an altitude of about 5600 meters. Route from Southeast Slope to South Slope (S3)1999 In May, Guizhou Youth Adventure Association reached its peak along this route. At the end of the glacier in the southeast of the main peak of the base camp, under C 1, it needs to pass through the crack area on the glacier.

Base camp BC Forward Camp ABC: First climb a gravel slope of about 30 degrees. After reaching the top of the mountain, walk down the left side for about 20 meters, then walk north in the valley for about 300 meters, and you can reach ABC. The whole journey takes about 1 to 1.5 hours. ABC Camp C 1 1 Camp: Starting from ABC, the northeast slope is inclined, and there are two heavy snow slopes in the middle, with a slope of 20 degrees to 25 degrees. The height difference of the first slope is 80 meters, and the height difference of the second slope is 220 meters. This journey takes about 2.5 hours. C 1 camp peak: the route is long. When there is little snowfall, there is bright ice near the peak and other places, but the slope does not exceed 30 degrees. After a lot of snowfall, the depth of snow will exceed 50 cm, so marching needs more energy. This section of the road takes 4 ~ 5 hours.

Peak: The terrain is flat and the landmark is an iron tower. When you get off the bus, you must go down to the right along the original road to prevent you from getting off Dongling by mistake. 2. Climbing route on the northern slope: There are three glaciers along the northern slope that can reach the top of Mount Everest, among which the routes of Glacier No.2 (N 1) and Glacier No.3 (N2) (counted from left to right) are the routes that have been climbed, and Glacier No.2 is the safest and has the largest number of climbers. The characteristic of the northern slope route is that the summit route cannot be seen at the foot of the mountain (the part above 5600 meters is blocked); Secondly, you need to climb other peaks to reach the summit, such as 58 19 and 5920 on Glacier 2. The base camp BC 65438+ camp C 1 2 glacier tongue extends to 4700 meters.

It takes about 2 hours from the base camp to the end of the glacier, through the grassland and gravel slope. The boundary between glaciers and rocks is relatively smooth. The main terrain from C2C 1 camp to C2 is snow slope and ice slope, which may have cracks, and ropes are needed for dangerous sections. The second peak of C2 camp starts from C2, first passes through the snow eaves of the main ridge, and then passes through a section of snow slope to reach the saddle under the peak (the altitude is 5920 meters, which is the most difficult section). The possible danger here is sliding, and roads should be built or assembled according to the situation. There is a gentle snow slope from the saddle to the top of the mountain, and there is no terrain danger. Peak value: 6 178.6m Relatively speaking, the climbing route on the south slope is relatively simple and the climbing period is short.

You can climb to the top by setting up an assault camp, with a small risk factor, which is very suitable for college students' mountaineering teams to train in the snow-capped mountains. The snow mountain technology used in the process of mountain climbing is mainly the sliding braking technology, which must be mastered before the snow mountain activities. The route of the north slope is complex and the climbing period is long, so it is necessary to build 2-3 assault camps to reach the summit. So we should have a perfect climbing plan. In the process of climbing, you will encounter many problems, such as ice cracks and road construction. So you must have some experience and skills in snow-capped mountains. Four. Preparation of food and materials As far as food preparation is concerned, the types of food brought by climbing every snow mountain are very similar. Take the ten-day climbing cycle as an example.

The staple food of Nanpo is about 50 kg, and the vegetables are about 60 kg. Fresh meat should be bought in the nearest city. In addition, you should bring more convenient food such as canned food to prepare for the surprise camp and bad weather. It's tiring to climb a mountain at high altitude. Prepare action food such as chocolate and beef jerky. The camp on the south slope is inconvenient to replenish. It is best to plan the types and quantities of food and prepare more spare ones.

The climbing period of the north slope is long, so it is necessary to prepare more staple food, about 70 kg, and bring more vegetables. The temperature in the camp is low, so there is no problem in keeping vegetables fresh. Because of altitude sickness on the high mountain, the team members should set up 2 ~ 3 assault camps on the north slope. Take 10 as an example and prepare according to your team's plan. It is recommended to bring at least 3 more. Equipment preparation should be based on the terrain of snow-capped mountains and the skills used in the climbing process. Due to the simple terrain, the south slope is equipped with less technical equipment, such as climbing ropes, ice picks and ice claws. Because it uses less technology in the climbing process. In the process of climbing the north slope, it is necessary to pass through ice cracks and many dangerous sections with steep slopes, so technologies such as group protection, alternate protection and road repair will be applied. Also bring more technical equipment, such as main lock, 8-shaped ring, lifter and so on.

For block protection and alternate protection, ice cones and snow cones are used for road construction. Symptoms on the plateau are concentrated, mainly cold, stomach pain and other symptoms. Therefore, we should eat more drugs to prevent colds, diuresis, vitamins and diarrhea. The treatment of altitude sickness is mainly to adapt and move around the camp. Team members should be equipped with personal medicines according to their medical history. The materials and equipment in the camp are trivial and difficult to manage. Therefore, it is suggested to choose two camp managers to arrange the placement and use of camp materials.

Climbing skills of intransitive verbs 1. Climbing skills required for the south slope: taxi braking skills: because taxi may occur, you should master taxi braking skills. Backup protection technology: If you have to pass through a dangerous area during the climbing of the snow-capped mountains, or if a team member is injured, you will use backup protection technology. 2. Climbing technology needed for the north slope: alternate protection technology: roads and rope laying are always needed from the area above the glacier tongue, and roads and rope laying need alternate protection technology. Sliding braking technology: It is also easy to fall down during climbing, so it is also necessary to master sliding braking technology. Road construction technology: the terrain at an altitude of 5920 meters is complex and steep. It is necessary to master road construction technology (different road construction methods are adopted according to different terrain).

Personal braking technology: In the process of climbing, many ice cracks are buried by snow, so be vigilant and master personal braking technology. Although Mount Everest is an entry-level snow-capped mountain, there are still many unexpected dangers on it. Rock climbing skills are the guarantee of team members' safety, and they must be mastered skillfully to ensure the smooth and safe completion of rock climbing activities.

Seven. Precautions: Dangers that may be encountered when climbing on the south slope:

1。 Bad weather is likely to happen from noon to afternoon, but don't worry. Choose to continue climbing or retreat according to the actual situation. Generally, the weather will improve after 2 ~ 3 days. 2. If there is heavy snow, avalanches are easy to occur after snowfall, so climb quickly. When the weather gets bad, the wind and snow will crush or blow down the tent, so be sure to pay attention to the wind direction when camping. Possible dangers in the process of climbing the north slope:

1。 Terrain danger: the dangerous terrain on the climbing route is cracks and sharp ridges, and there is a danger of falling into cracks and snow slopes. Therefore, it is recommended to know about each section of the road before climbing the mountain. 2. Weather disasters: mainly snowstorms. In snowstorm weather, the main dangers are getting lost, losing temperature, falling and frostbite. It is suggested to climb in the traditional way, set up two alpine camps, set up route ropes, and mark the climbing route with route flags to ensure that you can return to the camp safely under any circumstances.

There are many dangers of snow-capped mountains that were not considered when preparing. Therefore, before climbing, we must fully understand the snow-capped mountains and consider the possible dangers and countermeasures during climbing. In the snow-capped mountains, you must be calm and find a better solution when you encounter sudden danger.