Sri Lanka (1) Ⅰ "I just want to sleep forever"

The weather was fine on the way to Mirisha.

The bus drove for five hours, and then drove from Shibawan Mountain Road to the dreamy coastal highway.

The temperature here is close to 40, but the bus has no air conditioning. All the windows are open, the old-fashioned shaking fan overhead helps the air flow faster, and the whistling wind in the ear is mixed with the sound of the engine.

It is not too hot.

In the crowd, you can always smell the unique spices in South Asia. Almost as soon as I got out of the airport, I was immediately overwhelmed by this heat wave wrapped in incense. This fragrance exudes a kind of enthusiasm, a warm enthusiasm, silently saying welcome to you.

So during the whole trip, I tried to find this smell in spice shops, grocery stores and even souvenir shops, but all failed. Sri Lankans don't uniformly smear anything on their bodies, but it is the long-standing curry eating habit that makes it fragrant.

Bus fares are very low. It takes five hours to drive across half of Sri Lanka, but it costs only a dozen dollars.

What is comparable to the price is the seats here. It is very small, and the ordinary style bus can accommodate five seats in a row. Two on the left and three on the right. The aisle in the middle was crowded with people.

In addition to passengers, there are vendors selling peanuts, corn and fried dry goods overhead.

They jumped on the bus from a station, sold it from the front to the rear, and then sold it back from the rear. Then jump off the moving bus and run a few steps forward by inertia, waiting for the next business trip.

The sky here is particularly high and blue, and big clouds are floating in the air. Along the way, I looked out of the window at any time, and every look was like a beautifully painted car window frame. It was so beautiful that I could vividly remember it in my heart.

Being moved by the creation of nature is completely different from being moved by things. It's a feeling that you can enjoy the moment but can't take anything away, and you can only hold your breath and dare not blink. You know, even if you try to convert this picture into a photo in the camera, you can't restore that kind of beauty.

At this time, people become smaller, and then the things hanging over people become smaller. It seems that the universe will digest the good and the bad together. What people have to do is to live as well as possible.

You need to change at Mattler to go to Mirisha.

There is a famous maritime temple in Mattler. The car is parked on the side of the road, next to the temple. Between the temple on the sea and the main road, there is a walking bridge that is not too long and crosses the sea. We watched it for a long time and then left.

It's really hot.

It's so hot that everything seems to reflect sunlight that I can't open my eyes. There are Sri Lankan songs in roadside shops, which sound like Hindi. Suddenly, it seems to have stepped on the land of India.

Women who come and go are wearing headscarves, colorful long skirts and dark skin. Geothermal, the sky is high, and the distance between heaven and earth is infinitely elongated.

Fortunately, the other bus I transferred to was just across the street. You can get on the bus when crossing the road.

As soon as I got on the bus, it was more like India! Buses filled with various colors and Buddhist decorations play more cheerful songs. It seems that the next second, we will leave for Bollywood.

In the world-famous magazine Lonely Planet, Melissa is known as "a dream that I just want to sleep for a long time". Starting mainly from the pier in Mirisha, many ships left the Indian Ocean to watch whales and dolphins. On the swaying boat, surrounded by endless oceans and crisp blue sky, whales in the distance spew out a one-meter-high white water column, saving dolphins on the beach from time to time, giving people the feeling that "it is better to die here". If Melissa is a dream, people who have seen it are no longer willing to wake up.

Meanwhile, Mirisha has gentle beaches and rough waves. The combination of the two makes it a unique surfing destination, and you can experience the thrill of challenging the sea even if you can't swim.

So as soon as I arrived at B&B, I set a surfing lesson time with my boss's wife and set off for whale watching at five o'clock the next morning.

Sri lankans are lazy and have a slow pace. I don't want to teach surfing lessons when it's hot during the day. I have to wait until the evening, near sunset, when it is neither hot nor comfortable. I can get off work as soon as the sun goes down. At other times, he either goes surfing by himself, or sits on the beach and builds his own hut. The hut is filled with surfboards of different sizes and materials, and drinks tea and chats with friends.

What a wonderful invention drink is in this world. Obviously, it is a kind of liquid liquid that can be drunk in one breath, such as coffee, tea and beer, but it magically slows down time, shortens the distance between people, fills the gap between important time points, and makes life flow and glow like these liquids.

Surfing experience is unprecedented.

First, we need a very good geographical environment and go with the flow. If there is a reef or fault, it will hit a stone and be carried into the deep sea by the waves, which is very dangerous. Secondly, I can't swim, so many water sports can only be discouraged. It's not that I haven't learned swimming. I have suffered from Waterloo every time, and I don't feel like an idiot. Even though I can dive, I still haven't learned to swim.

The terrain here, the flat beach spread to the sea for tens of meters, and the sea went a long way before it flooded to the navel. White waves regularly roll to the beach, followed by several small waves, which help to stand up from the surfboard. Small waves are the driving force for the surfboard to move forward.

Learn the basic movements on the ground first.

The coach chooses the right size surfboard for us according to our body shape, leans on the board to learn how to hold up the body, and how to stand when the waves come and keep balance with the strength of legs. The most important thing in the whole activity is balance. The forces on the palms, feet and knees will change the balance of the surfboard. Therefore, every step should be hard and accurate, so that the body and the surfboard can be integrated and move forward in the waves like a sailboat.

Most activities related to nature require us to follow nature. Apart from the cliche that there will be retribution for destroying the ecology, this truth is always proved in small things. For example, when you are seasick, you only need to follow the trajectory of the ship drifting at sea and follow the waves up and down, which will greatly weaken the feeling of seasickness, instead of stubbornly maintaining an isolated stability in drifting.

In the same way, heavy waves are difficult to get into the sea. The coach will teach you that when the waves come, lift the head of the board up a little and the waves will roll along the board. The lovely white wave seems to be shouting from a distance: "Ah, I'm going to hit it!" "

When a big wave strikes, people can lean sideways to "make way" for the waves.

The whole process of surfing is to constantly balance and fail in the attempt. Fell into the water, fell heavily on the ground, choked on the Indian Ocean, or failed to stand up from beginning to end, washed on the board and rushed to the shore.

The afterglow of the sunset sprinkled on the beach, a large area, golden, and everything in front of me became a silhouette. Slightly warm seawater flows through my body with warmth. Finally, when I successfully stood up and washed up on the beach with the waves, the coaches in the distance clapped their hands.

The next day, five o'clock in the morning. We sat in a transparent Tu Tu car on both sides, crossed the newly awakened street and bypassed the busy seafood morning market. When we arrived at the dock, the sun was already very good.

The ship slowly rolled into the depths of the Indian Ocean, the sea became bluer and clearer, and the sky was high and far away. Except this ship, the world seems to have only endless dark blue.

Whales in this season are basically Europeans who come to shelter from the cold, surrounded by white faces, sitting or standing quietly. Compared with Sri Lanka, a tropical country, the word Europe has its own cold wind from the Arctic Ocean, white-skinned people, simple design and black and white decoration. So when the weather is cold, they flee to tropical countries, and at worst, they go to the Mediterranean, like swallows flying south, not in the south.

We sat cross-legged in the bow, quietly feeling the blue. The sun is dazzling and I squint. The sea water in front of us was whitewashed, and the white cloud overhead became a sun hat for the sea water on the right. The sea water blocked by the big sun was bluer and crystal clear.

About an hour later, the captain turned off the engine and slowly approached several ships that were also parked quietly. We saw a large group of dolphins coming in and out. One by one, they surfaced and disappeared into the ocean. This is my first time to see dolphins, cute little animals shining under the reflection of sunlight. With this vast sea area, the sense of nature is very touching.

We continue to search for the blue whale.

Blue whales are solitary animals and are rarely seen in fixed areas. The captain has rich experience in searching, so he will catch any situation at close range on the calm sea. Sometimes it is a sudden water column, and sometimes it is a huge half or a gray or white body. These are the most important seconds. The whole ship was nervously waiting for the captain to wave "over there", and then everyone looked at that direction without blinking, holding mobile phones and cameras and taking pictures of this moment by themselves.

-My days in Sri Lanka (unfinished)