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Gulangyu: the leisure life of petty bourgeoisie

China | Fujian | Xiamen | 2007-04-29 15:22:36.0 Article font: large, medium and small.

Gulangyu Island is a small island near Xiamen Peninsula, and the ferry is the only means of transportation to go there. As early as the beginning of the last century, western powers took Gulangyu as an important stronghold and set up their own consulates on the island one after another, while local celebrities and rich people were not to be outdone and bought gold to build villas. The whole island is densely covered with countless buildings with Chinese and western walls, attracting countless Chinese and foreign tourists to flock to the island to see its beautiful scenery.

It was already ten o'clock in the morning when we arrived at the ferry, and the tourists were already crowded. At that time, it was not the right time to recommend Kinmen Tour and Island Tour. We went directly to the round-trip ferry, and we only need to buy a ticket of 8 yuan for the return trip. While waiting at the ferry, I caught a glimpse of Gulangyu Island on the other side. There are many red nameless buildings dotted with green islands. The famous Sunlight Rock stands in the center of the island and is said to have a panoramic view of Gulangyu Island. In this way, full of hope and countless unknowns, we set foot on the ferry.

The ferry is a bit like a ferry on the Huangpu River in Shanghai. It's shabby and crowded here, and you can hear all kinds of accents everywhere. It rushed to the side of the boat to seize the favorable position and waited anxiously for the ferry to set sail. The water under the boat is a little yellow, not as blue as expected, but from a distance, it feels sparkling under the sunlight, and the whole sea is endowed with bright white, which is connected with the sky on the horizon. The brakes look good, and my mood will get better inexplicably.

This time we stayed at the Sea Garden Hotel, which is the only four-star hotel on the island. This is the only four-star hotel I have ever stayed in without an elevator. Classical exquisiteness is my first impression. After dinner, in the morning, whether sitting on a small stool on the balcony looking up at Sun Guangyan, walking in the garden overlooking the nearby sea, or sitting in a chair listening to the drums ..... everything seems so pleasant and comfortable. No wonder this hotel dares to name it "Sea Garden", which is really worthy of its name.

Gulangyu Island is named after waves hitting rocks like drums, so Gulangyu Island has been given a romantic color from the beginning. Since then, the whole island has formed an indissoluble bond with music. From the natural drums to the humanistic piano, you can feel the beating of notes on Gulangyu Island. Melodious piano sounds spread all over the island, shuttling through alleys, humming unknown tunes, and everyone can have a petty bourgeoisie addiction. Xinzhuang Garden is the best masterpiece combining music, architecture and nature.

I envy Erh Lin, the master in charge, for bringing such beautiful scenery into the private garden, although it has now become a toll attraction open to tourists.

The garden is built along the seaside, and several villas are arranged along the terrain. I can't see which villa is the bedroom of the original owner. The only things that catch your eye are the red brick exterior walls and western-style sculptures, which show the incisive beauty in the details. There are nearly 100 western classical pianos in the villa today, all of which are 14 and 5th century antiques. The structure and appearance of some pianos are quite different from those of modern pianos, which even makes people wonder how they can play music.

It's a pity that the piano collection there can't be photographed or played by tourists, which is a bit disappointing. During the dinner, it happened that a staff member played a piano piece by Bandari. The familiar tune produced a particularly melodious melody under the keyboard of Guqin, which made people intoxicated and made me want to try it. ...

Out of the piano museum, came to the seaside plank road. The scenery here is really beautiful. I can only vaguely see the mountains at the end of the sea. Huge oil tankers and farm fishing boats are sharing this sea area. The sun shines on the sea, forming countless rays. This kind of beauty can't be expressed in words and pictures. Walking on the plank road, wasting time, waiting for the next wave to hit the rocks, really lamenting that Xiaolang can bring me infinite happiness. Before you know it, time has passed. ...

People who have hardly been to Sunlight Rock talk about it, because the expensive tickets in 60 yuan, besides climbing the highest rock on the island overlooking Gulangyu Island, are really lacking in breathtaking beauty compared with other scenery. But for those who haven't been there, Sunshine Rock is definitely the place to go to Gulangyu Island. There is even a folk saying that "I came to Gulangyu without climbing Sunlight Rock".

Early in the morning, we also embarked on the road of mountain climbing. There is a Sunlight Rock Temple at the foot of the mountain, and the incense is not very prosperous. The roofs of the temples are painted, showing the majesty of the beasts. Because I don't believe in sects, I just took a quick tour and went on my way. I just feel that the architectural style of temples here is similar to that of Repulse Bay in Hong Kong, probably influenced by Minnan and Guangdong cultures.

Taking Gulangyu's fame as the highest point, climbing Sunlight Rock is not difficult. Along the stone steps, you will find some surprises inadvertently. The trees here are not as tall and straight as those in the botanical garden. On the slope, they are very feminine, entangled with big stones, and their roots are exposed in the air, rooted in cracks, and combined together, as if they were born together. I don't know whether the stone gives the tree toughness or the tree gives the stone life, because you can feel the strong vitality.

In fact, it didn't take long to reach the top. Because it is still early, there are not many people on the upstream of the observation deck. The wind at the top of the rock is much stronger than below, and the hair is blown in a mess. However, stainless steel handrails are built on both sides of Summit Road, so there is no need to worry about safety. Standing on the top of the mountain, the scenery in all directions is really under your eyes, but the fog is quite heavy and the visibility is not high. The distant scenery can still be seen with the naked eye, but not with the camera.

At the foot of the mountain, there are many red bungalows all over Kulunsu, and the number is amazing, but there are such a large-scale villa group in a small tiny place. Does it have an attraction I don't know about? The buildings are surrounded by a seawater river, facing Xiamen Island across the river, as if a bright pearl is embedded in the East China Sea. It really deserves to be a pearl and a treasure of China.

The beauty of Gulangyu is not only the waves and trees. When you go deep into the alley, you will inadvertently bump into old villas weathered by history, which witnessed the history of Gulangyu and even an unforgettable page in modern history.

The first time I went, because time was limited, I went to find two densely built streets with hand-drawn maps in my hand. In Gulangyu, the concept of geography doesn't matter at all. The alleys there are criss-crossing, and the same road name is called in all directions, which makes people puzzled. I really don't know how to make road signs there, and there are few signs. We have gone many wrong ways.

Cars are not allowed to pass through the whole of Kulunsu, and there are no vehicles on the street except garbage trucks and fire engines. It is said that local residents rely on their own feet, and the scooter is their only means of transportation, which still retains the quaint atmosphere.

Then you must think Gulangyu Island is just a tiny place, and that's what I thought at first. Facts have proved that Gulangyu Island is spotless. It's really not small to walk only by feet. The island has everything, including schools, theaters and hospitals. It's not just a scenic spot. Moreover, most of the houses and villas there are built on the hillside. Walking on the road means constantly going up and down, which unconsciously consumes a lot of physical strength, but visually impacts the artistic beauty from time to time.

The villa group on Bishan Road is built around the top of Bishan Mountain, which is mostly a combination of Chinese and western architecture. The whole Bishan Road is equivalent to a ring road, paved with asphalt and walking along the red brick wall. From time to time, you can see countless roots hanging on the tall banyan tree, or clusters of unknown flowers sticking out of the wall. Most of the ancient villas have been abandoned or bought by wealthy businessmen, and the tall gatehouses are locked, which makes people unable to be shortsighted by those exquisite carvings. It is a pity.

Walking alone in a quiet alley, enjoying the unique architecture, villa after villa passing by, a little lost and a little tired of aesthetics. It seems that I entered the 1920s and lived a petty bourgeoisie life. At this moment, time and space seem to flow backwards, and time stops here. ...

Next time you come to Gulangyu, you must visit Fujian Road, where there are many buildings of former embassies and consulates. I am really in a hurry this time, and I can only have a quick glance, but I know that people in my industry are deeply in love with this place, because of its artistic beauty, because it is quiet and comfortable, and because it represents a different way of life. Like Amy said, we're here to waste time.

Longtou Road is the business district on Gulangyu Island, where all the famous snacks and seafood on the island are concentrated.

Baby Cat Royal Cake House is a specialty store that we admire. As soon as I entered the door, I saw a white Persian cat guarding the door, knowing that everyone in this shop knew this beautiful cat.

The pie in the shop is worth a try. There are eight flavors. It is said that taro flavor and mung bean flavor are the most popular, and they are all booked up as soon as they are opened.

I prefer the decoration in the shop to the cakes there. Postcards sent back by local owners and various photos are posted on the wall. There is also an antique opinion book in the corner of the store, which is very creative.

I still remember the bold and unrestrained delivery of bacon by boss Jinxiang, the delicate and soft leaves and the Q-strength of fish balls ... It makes my mouth water now, so I must do it again next time.

Postscript:

I was in a hurry to leave Gulangyu, and I was so sad. I always feel that there are still many regrets, which can only be realized next time. Looking back at Gulangyu Island on the return ferry, at least I can name some red houses. Their beauty not only caught my eye, but also shocked my heart.