Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Weather inquiry - Why do Sherpas become the best guides to climb Mount Everest?

Why do Sherpas become the best guides to climb Mount Everest?

With the successful summit of the Everest Elevation Survey Team on May 27th, 2020, Everest once again unveiled its mysterious veil to the world. Those who have been able to climb Mount Everest are the pride of the country, and behind them stands an almost unknown Sherpa.

Sherpas have surnames but no surnames, and do not marry with the same surnames or with foreigners. Tibetan Buddhism is the main belief of Sherpas. The ancestors of Sherpas lived in Ham in eastern Tibet. They live by raising yaks and go to Nepal for the winter every year. Long-term fixed migration also enables them to monopolize the goods trafficking between Kathmandu, the Nepalese capital, and Tibet, China.

Why can Sherpas be guides to Mount Everest?

Every year in the peak season of climbing Mount Everest, a leading mountaineering team will raise funds from various mountaineering teams, and then hire Sherpas to go up the mountain to repair the "road" first. Sherpas can erect safety ropes with a total length of 7,000 to 8,000 meters without any equipment. They use a road rope to climb the mountain, fix one end of the rope on the Millennium rock ice with an ice cone, and then straighten the rope, which can play the role of logistics transportation, guiding the way, assisting climbing and ensuring the safety of the team members.

Sherpas have lived in the plateau with thin air since childhood, and their lung capacity is amazing. At the same time, their blood pressure is extremely low, which can ensure adequate blood supply to the brain. Long-term migration has made them extremely strong and muscular. It can be said that Sherpas are natural climbers, and they have an innate talent for climbing.

A mountaineer once made such a comparison: from Mount Qomolangma C4 (8000m above sea level), he walked all day with 45kg of equipment on his back and arrived at C2 (6500m above sea level) at 9am. The same route, as a climber, can only carry about 8 kilograms. That is to say, at such a high altitude, they carry a weight of nearly 100 kg as a guide, and their weight is five times that of climbers.

Sherpa people's daily mountaineering is: on the first morning, transport oxygen bottles from C2 at an altitude of 6500m to C3 at an altitude of 7300m, and then return to C2; The next morning, Sherpas accompanied the climbers from C2 to C3. It takes only three hours for Sherpas to climb alone, but it takes seven hours to climb with climbers. After arriving at C3, the climbers rested, and the Sherpas returned to C2 from C3 to rest. At 3 o'clock in the morning that night, Sherpas need to rush from C2 to C3 again and climb 10 hour with C3 climbers to reach C4.

Some people climb Mount Everest for their dreams, while others climb Mount Everest for their livelihood! Perhaps this is why Sherpas can become the "gods" in mountaineering!

On May 27th 1 1, after 45 years, the China Everest Survey and Climbing Team successfully climbed to the top of Mount Everest again. This moment is destined to go down in history again. In these two feats, Sherpas, as guides, made outstanding contributions to the logistics work of China mountaineering team, and they should not be forgotten!

The historical Tibetan language of Sherpa people means "people from the East". They are scattered in Nepal and China on both sides of the Himalayas and believe in Tibetan Buddhism. Because they live in the deep mountains and forests all the year round and are almost isolated from the world, they still belong to one of the unrecognized ethnic groups in China. Later, they became famous as guides and backpackers of mountaineering teams climbing Mount Everest all over the world.

Sherpas are natural mountain guides. There is every reason to think that Sherpas are the best guides to climb Mount Everest.

1. Living on both sides of Mount Everest all the year round and being familiar with the best summit route can help the mountaineering team to minimize the unknown risks that may be faced.

2. People with much higher lung capacity have good anti-hypoxia ability and endurance. Living in Sorukumbu area at an altitude of 4,700 meters for a long time has created the special physical quality of Sherpa people. Their vital capacity is beyond the reach of ordinary people, and their blood pressure is lower, which ensures that the body can still provide enough blood for the brain and maintain normal physiological functions in an anoxic environment.

3, the body is longer than ordinary people. This body structure makes them more flexible when climbing, and can bear more weight when carrying equipment and logistics materials. It is said that many Sherpas can carry more materials than their own weight when climbing on steep routes.

Sherpas are the "full-time nannies" of climbers, boiling water, cooking, making beds, wearing oxygen inhalation equipment, inserting road signs, carrying equipment, cleaning ice cracks, building metal ladders and setting up camps. In addition to these basic tasks in daily life, Sherpas often risk their lives and erect safety ropes of 7000-8000 meters for climbers without any auxiliary equipment. Many people died in the process.

Simple and kind Sherpas have quietly become the "ladder" for climbers. When we are cheering for climbers to successfully climb Mount Everest, we should not forget these unsung heroes behind them! (Image from network, deleted)

Just like Sichuan girls can eat spicy food. Mount Everest seems unattainable, but for local people, I don't know how many ancestors have lived near Mount Everest for generations, and they already know the terrain and mountain structure here like the back of their hands. To put it bluntly, people can climb higher than ordinary climbers with their eyes closed.

Sherpas have lived for a long time and are an ancient race in Tibet. They have been living a primitive life, guarding Mount Everest from generation to generation. Therefore, from a very young age, Sherpas have a deeper understanding of Mount Everest than outsiders, just like naughty children next door climbing a wall. Almost every turn, he knows what it is for. However, Sherpas will definitely not climb the wall, because their children have to challenge Mount Everest since childhood and are familiar with the mysterious and kind "monster".

Sherpas are very good at rock climbing. According to the data, adult Sherpas can set up thousands of meters of ropeways with the help of foreign objects without any rope protection. Of course, this climbing ability is actually a kind of practice that makes perfect. Many expeditions like to hire a Sherpa as a guide when they set out, which can effectively avoid danger and help the expedition complete some rope fixing.

Although the expedition is well-equipped, it is still impossible to climb even if it encounters that kind of ice danger. At this time, we can only turn to the "guide" of Huchard Ba people. For most climbers, the Millennium ice is like a desperate place. In people's eyes, it is not much different from roller skating. It won't be long before they climb up and then put down the rope they carry with them to make it easier for others to climb up.

Everything is for a living, but then again, everyone will enjoy happiness, and no one is born suffering, so Sherpas don't want to climb mountains and wade every day. After all, no matter how they know Mount Everest, there will always be mistakes. "If you often walk by the river, you won't get your shoes wet." If you accidentally fall, you may lose your life. However, Sherpas can't help it. In order to make a living, they can only take this hard and tiring job. They carry a burden half a man's height every day to replenish the mountaineering team, including oxygen bottles and fresh water.

After the replenishment, I came back from the mountain with a huge burden. At the end of the day, ordinary people are already tired. But they still work tirelessly year after year, day after day, which is exactly what they say: if there is no heavy burden on them, who will bet their lives on tomorrow?

Sherpas can be said to be people who deal with Mount Everest every day. Their daily life is on both sides of Mount Everest, which belongs to the junction of Nepal and China and Tibet. Knowing the geographical environment here, they have a new job, that is, to be a guide for climbers from all over the world.

What are the advantages of Sherpas climbing Mount Everest? On May 27th, 2020, the China mountaineering team once again planted China's five-star red flag on the top of Mount Everest. This is the first time that China has proved himself with practical actions after more than 40 years. This time, there are such a group of people in the mountaineering team, who are called guides or, more bluntly, pioneers by the outside world. They are Sherpas from China and Tibet.

Because they have lived here for a long time, Sherpa people have to go through a migration because of the weather. Their main job at ordinary times is to raise cattle, and the most they eat is beef. In addition, they are accustomed to the life in the plateau area, and their lung capacity is amazing, which is most suitable for them to be pioneers in mountaineering.

What are the tasks to be accomplished by these pioneers? Mount Qomolangma is as high as 8800, and the last part of the summit journey is an iceberg accumulated all the year round. If you are not careful, there will be avalanches, and it will be difficult to climb up. One of the journeys is a cliff-like vertical journey.

Sherpas can climb these places with their bare hands without feeling uncomfortable because of high fear and thin air. After climbing, they built a ladder for the people who were going to climb behind them, so that it was not so difficult for them to get up.

Therefore, no matter which country climbs the top of Mount Everest, half of the credit is due to the Pakistani people in Khuchad. Once again, I wish the China mountaineering team a successful summit of Mount Everest.

This question is wrong, or one-sided. I have been to the 5,200-meter camp of Everest Base Camp, put drones near Rongbu Temple to shoot glaciers, and went to Tibet Everest Mountaineering Training School to study Everest. Talk about the views on this issue:

Sherpas are mainly distributed in Nepal. They live on the south slope of Mount Everest, and a few are scattered in China, Tibet, India and Bhutan. The northern slope of Mount Everest is in China. To be precise, Sherpas are only the best guides to climb Mount Everest from the south slope. They have never been to the North Slope. If they climb Mount Everest from the northern slope, how can they be guides and climb Mount Everest from the northern slope? Tibetans in China are the best guides.

Here I want to talk about the common sense of climbing Mount Everest. You can climb Mount Everest from the south, that is, from Nepal, or from the north, that is, from China.

Mount Everest is 8844 meters high. It is not easy to climb from the south or the north. So far, about 5,000 people have climbed Mount Everest, and more than 7,600 people have successfully reached the summit. Some people have climbed to the top two or three times. This number is also changing. About 250 people died while climbing Mount Everest.

Comparatively speaking, it is less difficult to climb Mount Everest from the south than from the north. According to statistics, there are 16 routes to successfully climb Mount Everest so far, of which 10 is on the south slope, which shows that the south slope is relatively easy.

First, the south slope is gentle, the line is long, the camp line is long, and the roof line is short; The north slope is steep, the route is short, the crossing line is short and the rushing line is long.

Second, the south of Mount Everest is affected by the warm and humid airflow in the Indian Ocean. From the analysis of temperature distribution, the south slope is warmer than the north slope, and the natural environment is relatively good, while the north slope is worse. The snow line on the north slope is about 6000 meters, and that on the south slope is about 5500 meters, which is about 500 meters higher than that on the south slope. The height of the snow line is determined by temperature and snowfall. The south windward slope receives the humid southwest monsoon from the Indian Ocean, the air is mild and humid, and the snowfall is much more than that on the leeward north slope. The north slope has less snow, dry air and large evaporation. In summer, snow melts easily under sunlight, so the snow line on the north slope is higher than that on the south slope. Glaciers formed when the snow melted. The front end of velvet glacier ice tongue on the north slope reaches the vicinity of Rongbu Temple at an altitude of 5,400 meters. The Khumbu Glacier on the southern slope is about 6000 meters above sea level. In contrast, glaciers are more difficult to climb.

3. The most difficult part of the southern slope appears in the Khumbu Glacier just out of the base camp, and the biggest difficulty lies in the starting point, that is, passing through the Khumbu Glacier at the starting point with an altitude of less than 6000. There are a lot of glacier cracks in the Khumbu Glacier, and the probability of sliding down is very high. This is the most difficult part of the whole route, that is to say, the south slope is the beginning of hell, and it is very easy for the Khumbu glacier to cross the north slope. The northern slope starts from the gentle flannel glacier, but it is more and more difficult, with as many as five or six difficult sections. The ice wall of the northern depression at an altitude of 7028 is almost vertical, followed by the first, second and third steps. At the 8,700-meter tuyere, the ice disappeared and the rocks were exposed. Think about how windy it is.

There are many business teams on the south slope. There are world-class mountaineering service and rescue teams on the south slope, including multinational companies such as Europe, America and New Zealand. Helicopter rescue goes directly to Kathmandu, the base camp on the south slope, but there is no corresponding institution on the north slope. Protective rope ladders have been erected on some dangerous sections, steep slopes and rift valleys on the South Vietnam route, and some of them have become long-term facilities. Not on the north slope.

To sum up, climbing the north slope is more difficult than climbing the south slope. Of course, the natural environment is relative. For example, the snow line on the south slope is longer, warmer and wetter, and it is prone to avalanches and ice collapses, which is very dangerous. The northern slope is more stable and there are fewer avalanches.

Ok, let me get back to the point-Sherpas.

Sherpas live under Mount Everest, and their language belongs to the Tibetan language family. There are about 40,000 people in Nepal and about 1 2,000 people in China, but the Sherpa has not been recognized by China and is considered a Tibetan.

Sherpas are famous all over the world because mountaineering teams from all over the world climb Mount Everest, especially as guides and porters for some commercial mountaineering teams.

Due to the increasing popularity of global mountaineering, more and more people climb Mount Everest. A person climbing Mount Everest needs about 500,000-800,000 RMB from equipment purchase, mountaineering training and mountaineering service. Some international big-name commercial organizations (companies) have seen business opportunities and entered Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, and even the south slope of Mount Everest. These companies employ local Sherpas as guides and porters. Sherpas first went up the mountain to build roads and carry ladders, ropes, fuel and cooking supplies. Go up the mountain and set up a safety rope of 7000-8000 meters on the south slope of Mount Everest. Usually, oxygen bottles, food, water, etc. Sometimes taken back to concentration camps. When the mountaineering team climbs the mountain, Sherpas act as guides and porters, helping climbers to carry backpacks, mainly carrying oxygen bottles, communication equipment, photographic equipment, cables and so on.

Sherpas are famous for their commercial propaganda and packaging. Mountaineering service has become the "patent" of Sherpa people. Some mountaineering teams in China also invite Sherpas to serve, but most mountaineering teams in China are still guided and served by Tibetans.

Of course, without Jin Gangzuan, we can't make porcelain. Sherpas have lived in high-altitude areas for a long time, inherited the genes of mountain life, and developed a strong body, especially the spirit of hard work, which is admirable.

Finally, no one is born to do this and that. Sherpas are forced by life to engage in this highly dangerous, difficult and overloaded job in order to make money. In 20 14, an avalanche occurred on Mount Everest, killing more than 20 people, including 16 mountaineering cooperative service personnel and 13 Sherpa people. This avalanche incident has caused a great psychological shadow to Sherpa people.

Because China has adopted a protection policy for Mount Everest, tourists are forbidden to visit the area above Rongbu Temple, and there are also strict regulations for climbing Mount Everest. Those who have not obtained the Approval Certificate for Mountaineering Activities and the Mountaineering Permit are not allowed to climb mountains. Therefore, climbing Everest in China is mainly carried out by professional teams, such as national scientific research purposes, and commercial mountaineering activities are not carried out much. Nepal has fully liberalized its mountaineering business activities, and it is easy to obtain a "permit", which is also the reason for the "congestion" on the south slope of Mount Everest. There are many potential mountaineering guides, climbers and mountaineering service personnel in Tibet, China, and their number is much larger than that of Sherpas, but this need not be over-publicized, because they don't make a living by mountaineering.

Mount Everest introduced Sherpas to the world. They are scattered on both sides of the Himalayas and live on the border between China and Nepal. Most of them live in Nepal, and China mainly lives in Lixin Village, Xuebugang Village, Zhangmu Town, nyalam county, Tibet and Tangchen Town, Ding Jie County, or Zhangmugou and Chentanggou. The Tibetan language of Sherpa people means "people from the East", and there is a saying that Sherpa people are descendants of Xixia. Another view is the Tibetans from Muya, Sichuan.

Sherpas have lived at the foot of the Himalayas for generations, and they have been isolated for generations before humans reached the summit of Mount Everest. The extremely harsh living environment such as cold and lack of oxygen has created their unique physical qualities, making them more suitable for high altitude areas than ordinary people, with skilled climbing skills and strong physical strength. For ordinary people, it is difficult to breathe on glaciers at an altitude of 8 kilometers, while Sherpa people can carry more than 100 kilograms and climb on steep routes They helped the climbers on Mount Qomolangma at an altitude of 4,000-8,000 meters, set up camp to repair routes and transport materials, risked their lives to fix safety ropes in glaciers on cliffs and clean up glacier cracks without any protective measures. These jobs can only be done by Sherpas.

The reason why Sherpas are natural climbers is determined by their special living environment. They have lived in Sorukumbu area at an altitude of 4,700 meters for a long time, and their extreme living environment has exercised their extraordinary physical quality. First of all, they have a special ACE gene, which is the key factor to determine the endurance quality. By affecting the cardiopulmonary function of the human body, the aerobic endurance quality of the human body will be affected, so that altitude sickness will not occur. In addition, the blood pressure of Sherpa people is relatively low, which ensures sufficient blood supply to the brain and strong muscle elasticity. Moreover, their trunks are longer than ordinary people, which makes them have super endurance and lower hemoglobin than ordinary people. At an altitude of 4 kilometers, their blood oxygen content is three times that of ordinary people.

The natural advantages of genes make Sherpas have extraordinary physical strength, and they have also created countless miracles. 1953, a Sherpa named tenzing norgay and another Hillary from New Zealand became the first heroes to climb Mount Everest in the world. Sherpas are the fastest climbers on Mount Everest. Pam Dojihua, a Sherpa, reached the summit from the summit camp at an altitude of 5,400 meters in just 8 hours 10 minute, becoming the fastest climber in history. Sherpas have the largest number of people climbing Mount Everest, and the largest number of people died in the process of climbing Mount Everest.

Behind all the contributions and honors, it is inseparable from the help and dedication of Sherpa people.

After long-term gene accumulation and long-term plateau life, Sherpas have adapted to high-altitude life. I met a staff officer of Ali Business Department in the early years and went to Shijiazhuang for training in the short term. There was no adjustment in the middle, which caused him to be seriously drunk and almost failed. The reason is the same.

Sherpa, a mysterious people.

Look at their costumes, there are some Tibetan shadows. According to the oriental aesthetics, Sherpas have the characteristics of Tibetans and are not ugly.

It is said that the ancestors of Sherpa people were Tangut of Xixia. After the demise of Xixia, the remnants of Tangut people fled to the hinterland of Himalayas and settled down for a long time to graze for a living.

Most of them live in the Ruowaling Valley at an altitude of more than 4,000 meters, and the air is thin, which makes Sherpas born with big lungs. Their vital capacity is amazing, and they can come and go easily on the mountains of six or seven kilometers.

When climbing Mount Everest, Sherpas are not only guides, but most people choose porters (backpackers) with less risk factor.

Since the rise of commercial climbing Mount Everest, almost all young men in Sherpa families have made a living from it. Every climbing season, they usually earn 5000- 10000 dollars. Of course, this is the income of the tour guide, and the husband's income will be much worse. Everyone who wants to board the ship needs 500,000 to 6,543.8+0,000 yuan converted into RMB, and most of the money is put into the account of the mountaineering company. (I'm talking about mountaineering in Nepal)

Sherpa guides always earn very little money with their lives.

Let me explain here why there is such a big difference in fees. The better the reputation, the higher the corresponding expenses of the larger mountaineering company, and on the contrary, the corresponding protection will be reduced.

Some pheasant mountaineering companies in Nepal even give false certificates to people who have no mountaineering experience for money. Think about how many lives can be guaranteed by such mountaineering.

Some climbers who are not short of money will pay more to let their backpackers transport more materials to the base camp of Mount Everest. Even the base camp of the final sprint is above 8000 meters.

There used to be a saying, "As long as you have money, go to Mount Everest."

They were the first people to conquer Mount Everest, New Zealander Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzin Nogai.

This mountaineering expedition made the world know the Sherpas who have lived in the Ruowaling Valley for generations. Since then, almost every Sherpa family here has climbed Mount Everest, and almost every family has died because of it.

What is the amazing lung capacity of Sherpa people? They generally don't need to use oxygen tanks at altitudes above 7000 meters, even at altitudes above 8000 meters.

Among these people, Sherpas carry the most materials.

This is not an extra charge. Sherpa guides hardly go to the top of the mountain with climbers now. The last few hundred meters don't need a guide, but these hundreds of meters are called the death zone.

Sherpas also have the possibility of mountain reaction, and unless they are given more money, they are willing to gamble their lives.

At this time, the Sherpas will not help anyone whose life is in danger, and they can't save it. I won't give my oxygen bottle to others. Doing so is equivalent to trading my life for others'.

Over the years, more Sherpas have died on Mount Everest than climbers, and more Sherpas have disappeared. Although it is said that it is missing, everyone knows what it is, but they dare not face it, especially their relatives.

Because Sherpas live on the south slope of Mount Everest (in Nepal) and the north slope of Mount Everest (in China) all the year round, they have already adapted to the harsh environment and climate of Mount Everest, and the dangerous route of ordinary people walking on thin ice has become the norm for them. Sherpas are also famous for being guides and backpackers for climbers climbing Mount Everest from all over the world.

People born by the sea can swim, people born in the forest can climb trees, and people born in the grassland can ride horses, all of which are caused by the environment.