I want to improve my photography skills. What are my skills? Where can I study?

Portrait photography: the lighting system is worth investing more than the lens, and the lens is worth investing more than the fuselage. Portraits don't need much tolerance, so don't worry about Canon's low tolerance. If you have leisure time, get a 622C or 622N, and spend one or two thousand dollars to buy three flashlights to play with lights, which will make great progress. I can shoot girls at 24, 28, 35, 50, 85, 135 to see my personal preference. I like S35. Zoom can be as big as three yuan. As for the fuselage? Quan Huafu is fine. I only recommend D5300 and A6000 for half a frame. Canon's new machine has not been evaluated and is not recommended for the time being. Landscape photography: filters and brackets are very important. Gitzo, Manfutu and Ma Xiaolu can be considered as stands, and Haida, LEE, Singre SR, fotodiox and Platinum Rui can be considered as filters. As for the lens? I use 1740 to shoot the scenery and 24 105. Now I play Nikon with 1635 instead of 1424. In addition, if you have friends who plan to take photos in western Sichuan, Tibet, Xinjiang and other places, it is recommended to buy 70-200F4 or 80-400 or 100-400. Telephoto scenery is widely used in these places. About post-production: I personally think that the film without post-production is irresponsible, which shows that I don't care about the photos taken. In today's digital age, it is very normal to use PS, LR and other software to process photos. For photographers, photo post-processing is a step of photography. At present, all kinds of photography competitions, whether scenery, portraits, geography or news documentaries, allow a certain degree of post-processing. Of course, the license for later landscape competitions is relatively broad, and it is generally nothing if some unsightly sundries are dropped in the photos. The rules of the news competition are stricter, such as allowing only a single film, not allowing combined exposure, and not allowing things that exist in the photo itself to be removed. Personally, I think the so-called Canon Red and Nikon Huang Dou are just straight JPG. I don't think there is such a thing as Nikon yellow when using RAW for post-toning. According to the discussion with several friends, at least D750 and D8 10 have no so-called Nikon yellow. About how to shoot a girl in portrait shooting, the most important thing is to communicate with her and get familiar with her. No matter how ugly the photo is, it must look good. Your expression is great. Chatting with my sister when shooting, with a little sense of humor. You can spit out the girl's proud and angry frown, then make her laugh, tell her your story, tell her her her story, and make her happy or sad. Heads look good, so take heads. If the front doesn't look good, shoot the side. If the side face doesn't look good, take the face. If you don't look good, take pictures. Nine composition ideas of taking sister paper: ① no brain blur headshots; ② The impact force of wide-angle racket spreads all over the body; ③ Shoot a half-length photo of my sister horizontally, and my sister is located at the golden section of the photo; 4 telephoto end, away from the sister to shoot big scenes; ⑤ Look back; 6 sister sitting, lying on the ground (chair or something), looking up at the camera; ⑦ Shoot the side head of the bust vertically for 30 to 90 degrees to see the lens; 8 don't look at the camera; Pet-name ruby duck sit. As for .......... in the shed, I don't think I need an amateur's advice to play in the shed. Regarding the shooting of scenery, take a tripod, M file, real scene, what you see is what you get. Adjust the aperture between F8 and 100 (D8 10 is ISO64), adjust the shutter until the picture is exposed normally, zoom in ten times and focus manually, and delay shooting for 2 seconds.

I haven't studied hyperfocal distance, but I just randomly find an object close to me to focus manually. There is no fixed parameter about the value of the aperture between F8 and F 16. Generally, it is F8 to F 1 1, so other parameters are fixed except shutter. You only need to adjust the shutter time in live view mode to observe the exposure of the picture. The RAW of each camera has a lot of room in the later stage. You should be clear about your camera, how much overexposure can be pulled back, and the dark part can be brightened to a few acceptable levels, so that you can better control the exposure when observing the LCD screen.