Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Photography major - Shenzhen Fengqitai Cheongsam Dress Hall tells you how to choose cheongsam.
Shenzhen Fengqitai Cheongsam Dress Hall tells you how to choose cheongsam.
Look at the volume:
Generally, to make an ordinary dress, the tailor needs to measure the "three measurements" (chest circumference, waist circumference and hip circumference), neckline, chest height, waist section, shoulder width and the expected length of the skirt. On this basis, the standard of cheongsam measurement is added: the originally required hip circumference is subdivided into two standards: upper hip circumference and lower hip circumference. Because cheongsam is a very close-fitting dress, the cutting on the lines such as chest, waist and buttocks needs to be more exquisite. In addition, when making sleeveless cheongsam and sleeveless cheongsam, there are also differences in measuring shoulder width: the sleeve size should be moderately increased; Sleeveless ones should be moderately reduced in size.
Second, look at the piping:
A well-made Chinese cheongsam pays great attention to details such as "inlay, inlay, rolling, fixing, rolling and embroidery". Usually, a good cheongsam is permeated with cultural details. Of these six technologies, the first three are specially used for the hemming of cheongsam. The most common cheongsam adopts "one roll and one type" binding; A little more complicated is "one embedded one embedded one volume" or "two colors embedded two volumes" and so on; More elegantly, the process of inlay, inlay and rolling is repeatedly applied to the piping to create a more beautiful and fine effect.
Three dial buttons:
Buttons are another important point of cheongsam. Beautiful Chinese buttons may give you a lot of points in the workplace. Ordinary buttons are made by bending linear cloth into the shape commonly known as "grape head" and tying it with three-inch cotton thread. It is said that such a craft requires an apprentice to practice for a whole year before he can become a teacher, and it is only one of the basic skills of making cheongsam. The manual button embeds a copper wire in the cotton thread that will be used as the button. At this time, the uniformity of copper wire package is very important, so the manual requirements are very high. The cotton thread embedded in the copper wire is more brittle, and the flower button made is stronger and fuller.
More elegant dial buttons will also change the shape of flower buttons according to the embroidery pattern on the cheongsam piece, the style of the cheongsam itself and the color selected by the piping. For example, in a cheongsam embroidered with lotus patterns, the buttons are made into asymmetric buttons with lotus flowers. As a cheongsam for weddings and other festive occasions, the buttons are made in the shape of double happiness or a pair of dragons and phoenixes. Therefore, some time-honored cheongsam shops have "Mei, Lan, Zhu and Ju" series, "Fu, Lu, Shou and Fu" series, "Dragon and Phoenix, Flowers and Birds" series and other styles. Of course, the manual technology of this button is extremely high, and the price will increase accordingly. Of course, there are also many finished flower buckles made by machines in batches on the market. Although the manual cost is reduced, there may be shortcomings such as unstable sewing and single shape.
Four look at the style:
At present, the styles of traditional cheongsam are rare among young people. If you want to wear it in the office or business occasions, you must choose the improved cheongsam. The so-called improvement is to make changes in the neckline, sleeves and slits of cheongsam that are different from the traditional style. For example, the neckline of cheongsam is used as the collar or the clavicle is hollowed out. For another example, the opening standard of traditional cheongsam is: the position touched by the fingertips after the arm naturally droops; If the split is higher or lower than this standard, it belongs to the improved type. In addition, the traditional cheongsam has long sleeves, and the body and sleeves are a piece of cloth; Nowadays, in order to facilitate sports, many of the improved cheongsam are short-sleeved or sleeveless, and even learn a suit to press the sleeves made separately on the clothes.
Five look at the fabric:
At present, the top-grade fabrics for making cheongsam are: silk embroidery series, silk printed satin series, silk burnt velvet series and silk Thai silk series. Of course, the highest utilization rate is the traditional brocade series. In addition, some cheap cotton cloth is often used to make cheongsam. Therefore, when customizing or buying cheongsam, it is best to choose fabrics according to the possible occasions or your own economic budget.
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