Capturing photography skills in dim indoor light?

According to what you said, I feel as if I can only use flash (flash with corresponding flash index is configured as needed), for the following reasons:

The feasible method of shooting in dark conditions is

1, stability, including the stability of the subject and the stability of the photographer, both are indispensable.

2. Exposure, aperture, shutter and iso

3, external light, such as flash.

In your case,

1, stability is impossible, the subject is unstable, and the anti-shake effect is basically useless.

2, high iso has noise, you can choose to change the camera, but the cost is not worth it. At the same time, I don't know what your shutter and aperture are. You can try it yourself. First of all, you use the maximum aperture of the existing lens and the maximum iso you can accept to fix these two parameters, and try to shoot a clear dancer with how many shutters (according to the moving speed of the dancer). Then you can fix the aperture, reduce the shutter speed (whether the dancer is blurred or not), and see how many steps the shutter is lowered to get your satisfactory exposure effect. In this way, we can get the expected conclusion: if your shutter is lowered by several levels, then your aperture should also be raised by several levels. According to this, we can know whether we can use the lens of 1.8. I feel that I can use the iso of 1600. It is estimated that the aperture of 1.8 is not enough or will be enough (critical).

3. So I suggest you use a flash, which is external. If the distance is not far, the built-in one will do. However, if you want to brighten both the characters and the background, it may have to be external. But if the environment requires you not to use flash, you can only struggle.

The summary is as follows: According to the second article, you can predict whether you can meet your requirements if you buy an aperture of 1.8. But the simplest and most reliable way is to use flash. If you can't use the flash and 1.8 can't be satisfied, then you have to give up, just like it is impossible to make the rocket fly high, the transport satellite sink and provide less fuel.

In addition, I tell you: the relationship between aperture, shutter and iso: the faster the shutter, the smaller the aperture, the smaller the iso and the less exposure. Moreover, if one is fixed, the other two gears are the same. For example:

Keep the iso constant and raise the shutter by 1 (the shutter is faster and the denominator is bigger, you know), then the aperture must be raised by 1 (the aperture is bigger and the value is smaller, you know) to ensure the same exposure. If the shutter is increased by 2, the aperture is increased by 2, and so on.

If the aperture is fixed and iso is lowered by 1, then the shutter must be lowered by 1. If iso is lowered by 2 levels, the shutter must be lowered by 2 levels, and so on.

If the shutter is fixed and iso decreases by 1, the aperture must be increased by 1. If iso is lowered by 2 levels, the aperture must be increased by 2 levels, and so on.

In addition, I tell you that the difference between the aperture first gear and the root number is 2 times, the shutter first gear is 2 times, and the iso first gear is 2 times.

In addition, I tell you, if your equipment can meet the requirements, then after you adjust the exposure, the focal length is not easy to adjust because the dancer is walking. You can choose three methods: 1. Stay away from the dancer, so the range of the dancer's movement is relatively small. Even if the dancer moves after focusing, the focal length is not accurate and limited. I know that some cameras have the function of focusing on moving objects. If your camera has this function, please turn it on. 3. If there is no function of 2 and you are not satisfied with the effect of 1, you can try to use hyperfocal distance's method. As for how to use it, go and search. It's simple.