Dong Jiao xiangmin photography

The lingering fear of the last wave of epidemic has gradually disappeared from the six districts of the city. People can't stay at home all the time. It's time to go out for a walk.

Don't run, find an alley to wander around. The old tree house can provide shade, bite a popsicle, open a bottle of Arctic Ocean, and listen to gossip in front of Lao Wang Xie Tang to find a little popularity. It's more interesting than shopping.

Tuchong creativity

Many hutongs in Beijing, in particular, sound very attractive.

Is the fried beans in Fried Bean Hutong delicious? Will a street in Mutton Hutong be full of instant-boiled mutton? I came up with a amorous feelings painting.

Beijingers always name place names simply and directly, and say whatever they want. There is no shortage of literati in the ancient capital for thousands of years, but the people have the right to place names. Everyone knows that there is Miaoying Temple, but everyone still calls it Baita Temple, and the common name will always work.

Including naming hutongs with delicious food-they write all the favorite foods in the city on the map, telling you that you can't miss so many delicious foods when you come to Beijing.

First of all, the well-deserved first is mutton-

In one Beijing, there are already five mutton hutongs, which are distributed all over the country and share the same name and surname.

As far as Beijing people's obsession with sheep is concerned, this is very reasonable. They eat anything that grows on sheep except wool-

Slice the upper brain meat, roast it on a baking tray, and rinse the pot with the hind legs to make blush ribs and mutton. When sheep scorpion hot pot eats delicious food, he pulls out the noodles, and his stomach is crisp as fresh cucumber. The tail of the sheep is fried with sesame bean curd, the bones of the sheep are boiled with brine, and the head of the sheep is sliced thin to send wine. Vendors selling sheep's head meat should drill horns.

Don't destroy anything. With such a large demand, so many processes and so few mutton hutongs, Beijingers really can't eat so much.

One of the most famous is Mutton Hutong near Fuchengmen-in Mr. Lao She's time, the business of slaughtering live sheep with broadsword was more in Xisipailou area. Later, however, its landmarks were the Geological Auditorium, the later Gem Company and Xisi Bun Shop.

Near Dongdan, there used to be a mutton alley, later renamed Yeung Yi Hutong, which was once famous for its delicious food.

However, its true identity is the first stop for Japanese cuisine to come to Beijing!

This is not an old overflowing alley. In the past, overflowing hutongs were east-west.

Voice of Beijing people

In the 1920s, it became one of the concentrated places of Japanese cuisine in Beijing. There was once a "flag pavilion" with both catering and accommodation functions, named Changchun Pavilion, which was the highest-standard Japanese cuisine at that time.

Before the Anti-Japanese War, there were many Japanese people near Dongdan archway and Chongwenmen, and the concentration of Japanese food near here was no less than that of today's Liangmaqiao Lantern Street, where Hu Shi and Akutagawa Ryunosuke first ate Japanese food.

Until liberation, Japanese cuisine in Beijing still existed before the Cultural Revolution, and the "cutting and boiling white clouds" in Friendship Hotel 1983 continued this crop. The history of Beijingers eating Japanese food has been one hundred years since Mutton Hutong.

Photo by Lu Xinyi and others

There is probably only one mutton hutong selling mutton today. This one is better than several. It's true, just like it's true-

In the Ming Dynasty, it was also called Mutton Hutong, and later renamed Raw Meat Hutong. In contrast, there is a cooked meat alley next to it. They are today's Liu Shou Hutong and Input Hutong, both of which are a paradise for meat eaters, niujie!

Hung Kai snack bar, put a bag of fluffy toothpick meat, don't forget to wait a little longer for the beef, green onion and steamed stuffed bun to take a bite. Remember the cooked food next door, buy sauce beef and some original soup to cook noodles from the shopkeeper; Lian Kexuan, the captain of the pork chop suspected of jubaoyuan; Dashuntang is a halal cuisine recognized by neighbors for decades. Turpan is the first Xinjiang restaurant in Beijing ... it's just cooked. Next to the beef and mutton market, I want to roast it. Why not?

Even if this is the only "mutton alley" in Beijing, it is enough.

Public comment: Small packets of paper love to eat fish.

Besides mutton, another thing that Beijingers like to eat is sauce-there is a sauce landlord alley in Yonghe Palace, a sauce room alley in the west, and a big sauce alley and a small sauce alley in Gangwa City.

They not only really love sauce, but also elevate it to a lofty position:

No matter what "sauce XX" is called, the protagonist is definitely not the main ingredient behind, but the sauce.

Eating sauce beef in Beijing must be real "sauce" beef. There must be small pieces of soy beans in the soft cooked meat, not just stewed soy sauce, clear sauce and yellow sauce, so the treatment will be different.

Another example is Tianfu's sauce elbow, the skin is purple and black, and it is stewed, but it has no big taste, even too salty (full of mouth weight), which is the flavor of sauce and the original taste of meat.

Tianfu Official Weibo

And pickles. Jiang Fanghu used to produce pickles-

Although today is called pickles, in Beijing, pickles are higher in grade than pickles pickled with salt alone. There are no pickles in the imperial palace of the Qing Dynasty, but there are many pickles, such as melon, radish, eggplant and nectar, carrots, peas, cucumbers and hazelnuts, which are fried with diced lean meat and yellow sauce. They are nicknamed the "four sauces" of the court.

China famous dishes gather together.

Except mutton and sauce, all foods with the same name as Hu are essential in Beijing.

For example, Duofu Lane, formerly known as Tofu Lane, has a Tofu Pool Hutong to the north of the bell tower. Beijingers love tofu. Kunyu Pavilion smells like tofu, and Jinan Pavilion and Huimin Pavilion smell like tofu. The following drinks include tofu mixed with shallots and tofu mixed with tofu, fried tofu cooked in a pot, stinky tofu from Wang Zhihe, and steamed bread fried with sesame oil and chopped green onion, which is unique in the world.

Chinese food culture

It is worth mentioning that it is the simplest one, and it is still edible today, but it is rarely heard that it is called chicken-sliced tofu: in fact, it is extremely fresh and tender South tofu, which is buckled on a plate, sprinkled with salt and sesame oil, and eaten while mixing, and the tofu is broken, just like a chicken claw plane.

Today, I went to Baoruimen to nail meat pie or Warwick meat pie and asked for a plate of onion tofu. I came up with this. A fool at first glance is actually in the spectrum.

Public comment: Ordinary world _ 1953

There is also the North Officialdom Hutong, formerly called Enema Hutong. There is a proprietary alley that betrayed the fried enema. How many people do you want to eat it? Jiu Shao Hutong, to its south, used to be called Shaojiu Hutong. There is a restaurant handed down from Guanglu Temple in the Ming Dynasty, which serves wine by frying enema, which is also quite good.

Dongjiaomin Lane used to be Dongjiang Rice Lane, which monopolized rice, red dates, zongzi and rice cakes. Without it, it snowballed in Aiwowo.

Manma kitchen

The hutong near Zhao Road no longer exists. It used to be called Fried Ghost Hutong. There are more fried ghosts in Beijing than fried dough sticks, as well as twisted dough sticks, sweet oil ghosts and so on, and maybe fried oil cakes are also counted. People all over the city eat this. It can be served with bean curd noodles, tea, soybean milk, bean juice, red bean porridge and beans, but sesame oil ghosts are iron partners.

Chang Ying's fried food is still rich, but most of the "oil ghosts" in old Beijing have disappeared.

Some hutongs are also named after eating, but that kind of food has disappeared or become scarce, and the area has lost its original function. For example, fried rice alley, fried noodles alley-

Nowadays, fried rice is more common in Mongolian restaurants, and it is not so daily with a large pot of milk tea and a small bowl of yogurt. If it weren't for the popularity of fried noodles in the past two years, many children didn't know that the "one bite of fried noodles and a handful of snow" to resist US aggression and aid Korea was to eat this, and it was also Shanghai fried noodles and fried Yifu noodles. It has long since faded out of people's lives, and naturally it is no longer sold in hutongs.

Every beard with the same name that has been scented is a trace of the life that Beijingers once lived like this. In that era when there were no comments, no online celebrities or even the Internet, this was a food map woven by people here for the world.

Nowadays, the meaning of the food map of the name of Beijing Hutong changes with the change of the city.

Square brick factory hutong has become synonymous with slag sauce noodles. Everyone knows how to drink the noodles in Daxing Hutong. Door frames that didn't sell stews before are now free to choose.

Face tea in Daxing Hutong

The only thing that hasn't changed is that people in this city are still chasing the blood of food and rushing in every alley.

Running water does not strive for the first place, but it is endless. This kind of Beijing will not be without food.

The pictures in this article are partly from the Internet.

References:

Wu Yunyun. A preliminary study of Beijing restaurants in the early Republic of China (1912-1927) [d]. Zhejiang Gongshang University, 20 19.5.

[2] Sun Xiaoyan. Japanese cuisine is the capital of fire [J]. China Foreign Service, 1996(04):6- 10.

[3] Wang Yuebo. The more you eat, the happier you are [OL]. Ting Yun app, 2020-202 1.

[4] Liang Shiqiu. Sesame oil strips [M]. Essays on Elegant Rooms (up and down), Tianjin, Tianjin Education Press, June 2006.

Author -VJ

Edit -VJ

Photography-Fu Tao Editorial Department

Design director package