The fashion life of the ancients: women wear striped skirts and live in air-conditioned rooms with bare breasts.

The reporter found in the exhibition of the Museum of Xinjiang Autonomous Region that the ancient residents of Xinjiang had tattoos 2,800 years ago, and the pigment used was probably a plant called bluegrass. Such fashionable ancients really surprised modern people. Can you imagine women in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties wearing striped skirts on the streets, women in the Tang Dynasty with Ling Gezi's clothes and antique shoulder pads, and literati in the middle and late Ming Dynasty wearing fancy headscarves? This is a hot summer. Do you want to know what fashionable ways the ancients used to enjoy the cool? I will show you a glimpse of the "fashionable" daily life of the ancients.

Clothing supplies

The ancient inhabitants of Xinjiang had tattoos 2800 years ago.

On the 29th, Xinhua News Agency reporters saw at the special exhibition "Millennium Dead-Ancient Mummies Exhibition in Xinjiang" held by Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region Museum that a group of pictures of ancient corpses with tattoos on their arms attracted the attention of many citizens. According to archaeologists, unlike the modern popular tattoo art, the tattoos of ancient residents in Xinjiang should be derived from religious totems or status symbols.

According to Wang Bo, a researcher at the Museum of the Autonomous Region, among the ancient corpses unearthed in Xinjiang, he knows that there are four with tattoos, dating from about 2,800 to 3,200 years ago. A tiny steel needle was unearthed from Zagunluk's tomb in Qiemo County. Combined with the analysis of steel needles, spoons and other relics, the pigment used in ancient tattoos is probably a plant called bluegrass.

Girls in the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties were all "stripe-controlled", and the contrasting colors of red and green were bold.

Modern Express said that during the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, women loved to wear striped skirts. Simple stripes have never left the fashion circle, and now many big-name female stars have demonstrated and led the trend. However, the vertical stripes are fresh and refined, which has the effect of slimming and self-cultivation. Girls in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties have long known. The most popular dress at that time was striped skirt.

This striped skirt is called "color separation skirt", which is made of two or more colors of materials, and the colors alternate with each other, making it interesting. Dresses with different shades are very slender and elegant. They are really "like a beautiful flower when they are still, and like a weak willow when they are moving", which looks particularly small and fresh. At that time, some women boldly spliced the contrasting colors of red and green together to make a colorful and contrasting color separation skirt.

There were waist skirts and long shawls in Sui Dynasty, and chessboards and shoulder pads were popular in Tang Dynasty.

Modern Express also said that in the early Sui Dynasty, women's clothes were simple, but they looked "full of fairy tales". The pottery figurines of the Sui Dynasty collected by the Palace Museum are all thin-topped, round-necked or cross-collared, and narrow-sleeved, while the skirt is made up of several pieces of cloth with wide bottom and narrow top, which looks very slender and is called "fairy skirt". Fairy skirts are high in waist and usually tied to the chest, which is very thin; Wearing a long shawl on your shoulders looks really fairy.

The Tang Dynasty was strong in national strength and open-minded. Women concentrated their wisdom on dressing and created many classic works.

Do you think checkerboard is just a patent for some big names? These patterns were very popular in the Tang Dynasty. In the Tang Dynasty, women liked to use regular scattered patterns on clothes. Many scattered points are used to form various geometric grids. Rhombic lattice and checkerboard lattice were commonly used patterns at that time, and some were scattered into flowers.

In the heyday of the Tang Dynasty, long-sleeved and short-sleeved clothes once became the most fashionable clothes. Women put on half-sleeved jackets and "silk". There are also some women who wear half-sleeved underwear as underwear and a long-sleeved coat. Semi-sleeveless underpants hold up the shoulders of the coat and play the role of shoulder pads. Different from other dynasties, cutting shoulders is the beauty. Looks like the gas field is full.

Among the dresses in the Tang Dynasty, hundreds of bird feather skirts are the most precious and exquisite. Hundred birds skirt is a kind of skirt made of hundreds of bird feathers, which is said to have been invented by Princess Anle, the daughter of Tang Zhongzong. Because of its unusual beauty, this skirt has spread from the palace to the people, and women from all walks of life are crazy about it. Once, all the rare birds in the mountains suffered.

In addition, women in the Tang Dynasty also like to dress up as men, throw away skirts and put on pants symbolizing male identity to go out.

At the end of the Ming Dynasty, scholar headscarves appeared one after another.

Jiangnan Times reported that the economy was quite prosperous in the middle and late Ming Dynasty. As middle-class scholars, they pursue novelty, are eager to be different and care about personal clothes. Under the fashion trend, literati and bureaucrats have caught up with "fashion".

The headscarf is very important in the scholar's whole suit. The headscarves of "Playboy" in Ming Dynasty are also varied. "Hakka Waihua" recorded the headscarf trend at that time: "Before the (Dragon) Celebration and the (Ten Thousand) Calendar, the southern costumes were simple, and officials wore zhongguan, while scholars only wore square scarves. In recent years, it has been made in a strange way, and the days have changed ... there are Han towels, Jin towels, Tang towels, Zhuge towels, pure Yang towels, Dongpo towels and Yangming towels.

Dong Jin, a clothing historian, said that well-made towels are decorated with patterns such as ruyi moire, and even decorated with ornaments such as jade flowers and jade pieces, which are quite rich in materials. "Extra Words for Guests" also records: "The towel is decorated with jade knots and vases, and the edge is decorated with two jade rings. And pure Yang, Jiuhua, Xiaoyao, Huayang and other towels have benefited from two versions before and after, and the wind will come. All seams are leather gold, made of hat yarn, weft yarn and lacquer yarn. In addition to yarn, there are ponytail yarn and long Lin yarn. Its colors are sky blue and sky blue. The ponytail is woven as a towel, which can be divided into corrugated, monofilament and double filament. Therefore, the first service was ruined, and it is extremely embarrassing today. "

Who would have thought that men could make so many designs on headscarves more than 400 years ago? In contrast, even modern hipsters can't compare with them-modern men's hats are much inferior in style.

Travel and play supplies

In Zhang's sedan chair, there is a suite kitchen and bathroom similar to "RV"

According to the Northern New Newspaper, Zhang, a memoir of the Wanli period of the Ming Dynasty, went home to attend the funeral in the world's largest sedan chair.

Zhang's trip home was spectacular: the sedan chair was carried by 32 bearers and divided into a bedroom and a guest room, where two children were waiting. Among the attendants' guards, the striking thing is a group of bird killers sent by company commander Qi Jiguang. Bird killing was a fashionable firearm that day. It is conceivable that this sedan chair has an inner cloakroom, two attendants and three kitchens and toilets. It is estimated that it should be larger than the Kauste of 17, so it must be carried by 32 sedan chairs. I'm afraid this is not only a big sedan chair in China, but also one of the best in the world.

I think, isn't this comparable to the modern "RV"?

Emperor Xuande of the Ming Dynasty loved to play "pounding pills" similar to today's "golf".

During the Nanjing Youth Olympic Games last year, the Yangzi Evening News reporter found that "Bo Opera: China Ancient Sports Cultural Relics Exhibition" was held on the second floor of Nanjing Art Museum as a gift to the Youth Olympic Games. In the picture part of the exhibition, Han people were playing "martial arts" two thousand years ago, and modern people were playing "fencing", which really looked more like gods. A precious national treasure in the exhibition, Ma Qiutu, is said to be the earliest video material about polo. It is so precious that it is forbidden to go abroad for exhibition. It can only be seen in the mural museum of Shaanxi History Museum, and it must be spent in 300 yuan.

The professional said, "There is indeed a man in ancient costume playing golf in the painting. This man is the famous Xuande Emperor Zhu Zhanji, also known as Xuanzong of Ming Dynasty. The chart says that he plays' bowl blowing', which is similar to gateball now. But look at the little hole in the ground. This is clearly golf. Emperor Xuande is ambitious and likes entertainment. He ordered people to draw their body posture while entertaining themselves, which formed the only remaining long scroll of court painting in the early and middle Ming Dynasty, the Happy Picture of Emperor Xuanzong of Ming Dynasty, which is now hidden in the Forbidden City in Beijing. "

Cool article

In the Han Dynasty, the imperial palace was equipped with "air-conditioned rooms", and the "ice tray" in the Ming and Qing Dynasties was not inferior to air conditioning.

According to Shanxi Evening News, ice cubes were used to reduce the indoor temperature in the pre-Qin period. At that time, the place where the ice was stored was called the "cave". Every hot summer night, the nobles spend all night drinking and having fun in the caves.

In the Han dynasty, there was an air-conditioned room in the palace in winter and summer. The room used in winter is called "temperature control hall", and the room used in summer is called "Liang Qing hall".

In the Tang Dynasty, the "Hanliang Hall" was the bedroom of the emperor's empresses. It was built by water, and it was very cool to live in it in summer.

In the summer of Ming and Qing Dynasties, rich people would buy ice cubes or snow and put them in their rooms to become "ice trays". When the ice and snow melt, it constantly sends out a chill, which is no less effective than today's air conditioning.

The ancient people mainly relied on fans to enjoy the cool, and fans were mostly made of bamboo. The ancients called it "shaking the wind" and "cooling friends". The rich will use an "artificial fan", that is, a fan blade is installed on the shaft and a rope is tied to the shaft. The servant holds the rope on the shaft and drives the fan blades to rotate, which can produce a cool breeze. More advanced is the "air conditioning fan" driven by water.

People in the Tang Dynasty ate popsicles, while people in the Southern Song Dynasty sold "ice cream".

At the end of the Spring and Autumn Period, dignitaries already liked drinking ice wine at banquets.

By the Tang Dynasty, people had learned to make and sell "popsicles" publicly. Put the ice in a big barrel, sprinkle salt to reduce the melting point of the ice, then arrange small iron boxes filled with sucrose water in the barrel, insert small sticks, and it will freeze into popsicles after a while.

In the northern song dynasty, you can also eat all kinds of cold drinks, including shaved ice. The cold drinks in the Southern Song Dynasty were even more dazzling, and the cold drinks shops in the night market even sold until midnight.

In the Yuan Dynasty13rd century, the "milk ice" enjoyed by Mongolian princes and nobles was the embryonic form of ice cream we see today.

During the Ming and Qing dynasties, cold food filled ordinary alleys. In midsummer, many vendors carried the burden and sold "cold water" along the street.

In the Spring and Autumn Period, there was a "refrigerator" in the Ice Room in the Song Dynasty.

1976, an ice bank was found in the archaeological site of Qin Yongcheng during the Spring and Autumn Period, with an ice storage capacity exceeding 190 cubic meters. There are special officials in the imperial court who are responsible for chiseling ice cubes for storage every winter.

The Wannian Ice Cave in Ningwu, Shaanxi Province, is said to be the place where Emperor Yang Di spent the summer and enjoyed the cool.

With the prosperity of cold drinks in the Song Dynasty, a relatively primitive "refrigerator" called "ice guide" appeared in the Song Dynasty. It is a double barrel with a base at the bottom, a cover at the top and a sandwich in the middle. Put the ice cubes in the interlayer and cover them. They won't melt for a long time.

Women in the Tang Dynasty wore half-length clothes and topless clothes to enjoy the cool.

Before Wei and Jin Dynasties, men loved to be shirtless like modern people, while women liked to wear "open-backed pants".

The "half-arm skirt" and "topless skirt" revealed by Bo in the Tang Dynasty were favored by women. Half-arm dress can be regarded as an ancient short-sleeved shirt. Bolder than half an arm, it is naked.

Chihuopian

There have been goblets for more than 4000 years.

According to Modern Express, in the exhibition "Where did it come from" held by Nanjing Museum last year, a goblet more than 4,000 years ago was displayed, with a trumpet-shaped handle and cup body. The commentator said that it was found in Shandong, and it was called eggshell black pottery tall handle cup. "'eggshell' means that the cup is very thin. Judging from the unearthed high-handle cup, the average thickness is only 0.5 mm, and the thinnest is only 0.3 mm, and the weight of the whole cup is only about 40 grams. Its average water absorption rate is only 43/10000, indicating that the pottery firing technology at that time was very high. "

The commentator said that the eggshell black pottery tall handle cup was the most advanced wine glass at that time. Archaeological findings show that this kind of cup is mostly unearthed in some large and medium-sized tombs, which shows that the identity of the person who uses it is unusual, and it is likely that only clan leaders can use it.

The ancient market cup was used to "cheat" drinking.

Now there is a fair cup on the dining table, but it is used to divide wine.

In Nanbo's special exhibition hall, there is also a fair mug, which was used by the royal family that year. "In ancient times, someone got married, and everyone often booed the groom to drink more and get him drunk. At this time, the Fairmark cup played a magical role: once the Fairmark cup was filled, there was not a drop left in the cup. "

What's going on here? Experts say this is because the ancients skillfully used the principles of siphon and pressure. There is a bent pipe hidden in the cup, and both ends of the pipe are connected with the hole in the cup and the hole at the bottom outside the cup respectively. When pouring wine, the wine rises through the hole at the bottom. As long as the wine in the cup does not exceed this highest point, the wine will not leak. Once the wine in the cup exceeds this highest point, the pressure will be out of balance, and the wine in the tube will leak out of the hole at the bottom after crossing the highest point.

Ovens in the Warring States period are very similar to those now.

When it comes to barbecue, many people think of barbecue and grilled fish ... In fact, the oven is not modern, and it existed more than 2,400 years ago. In the special exhibition of Nanbo, an oven during the Warring States period was exhibited. The oven is rectangular with a concave part in the middle. With some barbecue tools, it can be set to bake something to eat. At present, a number of ovens in the Warring States period have been unearthed in China. For example, in 1933, a bronze moire square furnace was unearthed from the tomb of the king of Chu in Shouchun, Anhui Province. Its shape is close to that of a modern oven, and there are two bronze handles on both sides of the oven, which is convenient for moving, grilling and heating.

According to the commentator, the ovens in the Warring States period were mostly square or rectangular, and the bottom was sunken, which could be used to place charcoal fires. There is a cloister-shaped cover on all sides, on which mutton kebabs can be placed. The corners are upturned to prevent the skewers from slipping. The walls of the oven are also equipped with bronze animal heads, which are convenient to be hoisted by chains and transported freely without burning hands.

Who was using the oven then? The commentator said that it is generally used by royalty and nobles, and barbecue has become their daily food. Like the chef, the division of labor is clear, and someone is responsible for the barbecue. "At that time, the nobles ate barbecues and grilled fish."

The chafing dish tripod in Han Dynasty is very advanced.

In the exhibition hall of Nanbo, there is a hot pot used by Jiangdu Wang more than 2000 years ago, which has five squares. It is similar to the principle of today's Jiugongge hot pot, and it is even better to use. "The bottom of Jiugongge hot pot is connected together. The soup is actually the same, but the dishes in each box are different. The hot pot diced in our exhibition hall is not bottomed, which can guarantee that it will never taste. "

When in use, different kinds of meat and condiments can be packed in different compartments. According to research, in the Han Dynasty, besides pork, beef, sheep and pigs that we often eat now, there are also horse meat and venison ... Of course, not all people in the Han Dynasty can eat all kinds of exotic meat with such a high-end hot pot tripod, and only princes and nobles can enjoy it.

Related reading

Introduction: As the saying goes, "Although it is a small summer, it is a big summer." In hot summer, many people hide in "air-conditioned rooms" to escape the heat. Although there was no "air conditioning" in ancient China, there were many low-carbon and environmentally-friendly places to enjoy the cool and summer. For example, the "bridal chamber" in the pre-Qin period and the "gazebo" in the Han Dynasty. ...

"Cave Dwellings" in the Pre-Qin Period —— "Entertainment Space" for the Nobles in Summer

Like modern people, the ancients first thought of transforming the living room environment and building an "air-conditioned room" with refrigeration equipment to escape the summer. This kind of room was called "summer room" in ancient times, "bridal chamber" in the pre-Qin period, "cool room" in the Qin and Han dynasties, and "cool hall" in the royal family. Later, "ice room" and "cool pit" all belonged to summer room. Cave dwelling was the most popular "air-conditioned room" in the pre-Qin period. The so-called "cave" literally means cave, which is the original structure of modern "basement". It can be seen that the cave houses popular in the pre-Qin era are actually "basements", but they are more particular than basements.

At that time, the nobles who had the conditions had caves in their homes, and some important dining activities would be arranged in caves in summer. Dr. Bo You of the State of Zheng is one of the famous "drunkards" in the history of China, and his family has a cave. "Thirty Years of Zuo Zhuan's" Xianggong "records:" Zheng Bo has a cave to drink, drinking at night and ringing the bell, and the morning is not over. " Uncle Zheng likes drinking, so he built a cave for fun at night and stayed up all night. It can be seen that the grottoes are very similar to the popular "entertainment space" of the pre-Qin aristocratic class in summer.

At that time, from Zheng in the Central Plains to Chu in the south and Wu in the coastal areas, nobles liked to spend the summer in caves, which were also an important place for them to settle down. In the summer of 5 15 BC, He Lv, the son of Wu, the later king of Wu, used his grottoes when he assassinated Wu Wangliao. According to the analysis of historical data, caves in the pre-Qin period were not entirely basements using underground cold sources, but also artificial cold sources. At that time, ice cubes were placed in high-rise caves to cool down and adjust the temperature.

In the summer of 552 BC, Yin Zigeng, the son of Chu, died. Who is the suitable successor? Zifeng avoided the appointment of King Chu Kang, wore a cotton gown and coat, and lay on the bed in the cave to pretend to be sick. On a hot day? Why does Zifeng still wear a coat? It turned out that he put ice under the bed.

There was a "cool hall" in the imperial palace of the Han Dynasty —— "first frost in midsummer" with good refrigeration effect.

Ice has always been one of the important cold sources for the ancients to cool down in summer. This method of using natural cold sources to cool rooms began at least in the ancient Zhou Dynasty.

In the court of Zhou Wang, there is a special person who is responsible for collecting ice cubes for the royal family to use in summer. According to Zhou Li, the person in charge is called "Lingren" and has 80 employees. Generally, from1February every winter, workers begin to collect natural ice cubes and transport them to the freezer for storage. This ice harvesting system existed until the late Qing Dynasty. In the palace of the Han Dynasty, there was an air-conditioned room in winter and summer. The house used in winter is called Wentiao Hall, the house used in summer is called Liangqing Hall, and Liangqing Hall is also called Yanqing Hall, which is the highest summer house in the royal family. According to Hanshu, the cooling effect of Liang Qing Temple is excellent, which means "clear room and summer frost", which means that it can frost indoors in midsummer and the room temperature is as low as frost.

Indoor refrigeration equipment is also extremely luxurious. The article "Pavilion" in the anonymous ancient book "Three Fu Huang Maps" has such a record: "Take the painted stone as the bed, the writing style is like brocade, the purple glaze curtain and the purple jade as the plate, such as Qulong, all decorated with miscellaneous treasures" and "Take the jade crystal as the plate, store the ice in front of the knee, and the jade crystal is clean with the ice". The high-grade stone bedding itself is a good product for summer use, with a belt next to it. What's more, let the waiter and face the fan. In this way, multiple cooling, natural cool and comfortable.

Dong Yan, who was favored by Liu Che, the Emperor of the Han Dynasty, "once lived in Yanqing Room". These are the cool furniture when Dong Yan stayed in the cool hall. By the way, Dong Yan is the daughter of Emperor Wen of Han Dynasty, the little lover of Princess Liu Piao of Guantao, and the 50-year-old aunt of Liu Che. The age difference is about 30 years old. This "strange love" once left the words "cuckold" and "master".

"Water-excited Fan Car" in the Imperial Palace in Tang Dynasty —— The earliest imported air conditioner in China.

Buildings with air conditioning in the summer of the Tang Dynasty were not called "Liangtang" in the Han Dynasty, but called "Liangtang". The "cold palace" is the bedroom of the empresses of the Tang emperor. It faces Taiye Pool in the north and is built according to water. It is very cool to live in it in summer.

In the Tang Dynasty poet Zhang Zhongsuo's "Music in the Palace", the so-called "red fruit and jade pool are solid, and the gold plate is exposed to ice; Ganquan will spend the summer, and the terrace will condense Guang Xiao ",which describes the scene of" including the cool terrace "to spend the summer.

The refrigeration mode of "with cool hall" is very advanced, which is realized by mechanical devices. Tang Yulin Hero records that Chen Zhijie, who was gleaned at that time, gave a lecture to Li Longji of Xuanzong of Tang Dynasty, and Li Longji invited Gao Lishi to talk with him. It was a hot summer, and Li Longji moved his "office" to Liangdian for the summer. Chen Zhijie saw, "(Li Longji) seat rear water drive fan car, wind hunting skirt." After coming in, Chen Zhijie was "given to sit on the stone couch", feeling "gloomy, unable to see the sun, the water in the corner became a curtain to fly, and the seats were frozen."

This historical record contains a lot of information. First, in architectural design, the "cool hall" is dark, so it looks gloomy; Second, the existing "electric fans" at that time did not use modern electric energy, but water energy. Water is used to turn the fan blades, "water-excited fan car", and the fan blows cold water to form air conditioning; Third, there is a circulating cold water source in the temple, so water drops fall from all sides to form a water curtain. This is to install water pipes on the four eaves of the palace to guide water to the eaves. Cold water circulates on the house, the indoor temperature naturally drops, and the refrigeration effect is excellent, reaching the refrigeration effect of "freezing on the seat".

This kind of "air-conditioned building" is called "self-pavilion" and "rain pavilion" by the people. At that time, high-ranking ministers had such "air-conditioned rooms" in their homes, and Wang Haoshi, mayor of Chang 'an (Beijing), also had his own pavilion. The cooling effect of the pavilion can be described as "when it is in summer, if it is cool in autumn".

Modern scholars have verified that this refrigeration and air conditioning technology with mechanical principle was not invented and first used in China, but originated in the Eastern Roman Empire, when palaces in that country were equipped with this kind of "air conditioning". If this research is true, this device should be regarded as the earliest "imported air conditioner" in China.