Can micro-single shoot the starry sky?

As long as you have a micro camera with M-file and B-door, you can shoot.

Shooting the starry sky must have a B door, a dark environment, sunny weather, a wide-angle lens and a wide field of vision. You don't have to do this for fuselage performance requirements.

High, but the pursuit of high quality, high pixels.

Shoot the starry sky, with: tripod, pay-off.

The camera modulates the M-file B door for manual exposure, and the ISO is set to 3200-6400 (the higher the branch value, the brighter it will be, but the picture quality will not be good for several months, so try to take a few photos for debugging). Manually focus the lens, adjust it to infinity, pull it to the farthest focus and come back a little, with the largest aperture.

The lens can be shot, and the exposure time is 45- 1 minute (the longer the time, the more complete the starry sky, but the longer it will become an orbit, and I will explode for 5 minutes at the longest). The noise reduction of the fuselage can be turned on or off, wasting some electricity. It is recommended to use RAW instead of fuselage noise reduction, and then use it when you come back.

The camera should be mounted on a tripod. As long as the cold wind is strong on the plateau at night, we should find some stones to hold the tripod steady. Camera is set to wired release or remote control is exposed. Press the camera once, and then press the cable to release it after 30 seconds. You can go home and shoot the stop lights on the road, and the mastery of the slow door can be linked. Different parameters make the same sense.

If you want to shine on the "blue" starry sky, turn the white balance to incandescent lamp.

Extended data:

B-door failure problem

When using B-door for long exposure, the problem that is easy to appear is the so-called "reciprocity law failure" that photographers often say. This usually happens when exposed to color film for one second or more. Fundamentally speaking, long exposure will change the color balance of the film, and this phenomenon is often unpredictable by photographers.

Generally speaking, there is no simple way to solve the problem of the invalidation of reciprocity law, so that every shot can be accurately exposed. David Williams, a British photographer, put forward a simple method, that is, "taking more photos with longer exposure time based on the calculated exposure".

Williams pointed out that when taking a long exposure, it is necessary to record the exposure time and aperture used by each photo. In addition, various exposure indexes can be used for shooting to make up for the deficiency caused by the failure of reciprocity law.

One method is to increase the total exposure, and for the exposure of 1-9 seconds, increase the aperture of 1/2- 1; For the exposure of 10-99 seconds, increase the aperture of 1-2; When the exposure time exceeds 100 second, the aperture increases by 2-3 steps. An indicator like this means that in general, it can't be regarded as a static thing, especially with different films, depending on the specific situation.

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