Micro-single photography technology. Come on!

Macro still life shooting: use a gear (aperture first), use a large aperture, try to shoot within the nearest shooting distance of the current lens, and blur the background! In addition, we should pay special attention to the simplicity of the background, make the subject stand out and produce aesthetic feeling! If the light is good, iso 100 or160; If the light is not good, iso is better within 400. 2, people shooting: basically use a larger aperture (within f5.6), the focal length is more than 50mm, and the shooting distance depends on the whole body, bust, big photo, so the background is blurred, use one file! Backlit portraits can be measured by spot light, and can be filled with flash according to the situation! Good light, iso 100, poor light, within iso400. People in motion use chasing to express their sense of motion (see the shooting of moving objects below for details)! 3. Scene shooting: First gear (aperture priority), use appropriate aperture, above f8, with arbitrary focal length, but wide-angle distortion, so use it as appropriate. 4, night shooting: tripod, first gear (aperture priority), aperture above f8, small aperture can make the light show starlight effect, use low ISO, control exposure time, long exposure can make some people who have no intention of walking disappear from the picture, leaving no trace, purifying the scene! 5, shooting fireworks: use the cable release, B shutter, you can shoot the effect of multiple fireworks overlapping! 6, shooting running things: good light: first gear (aperture priority), aperture size as appropriate; A large depth of field effect can be obtained with an aperture above f8, and a shallow depth of field effect can be obtained with a small aperture. If you want to shoot a very dynamic effect, you can use the S file and control the shutter at around 1/30. Press the shutter when focusing, and the lens moves behind the object at a proper speed, which will lead to a very dynamic effect and poor light: it can only be handled as appropriate, plus chasing! 7. Shooting running water or fountain: With S-file (shutter priority) and shutter speed of 1/20, you can shoot satin effect. If you use the shutter too fast, the fountain will shoot discontinuous water droplets! 8. Portrait shooting at night: put a tripod on it, adjust the white balance, and automatically or customize the white balance; iso 100( 160)-400； A gear, with an aperture of f8 or so, uses slow synchronous flashing, and the subject should cooperate and not move, so that the characters are clear and the background is beautiful with neon, so as not to make the background underexposed and dull. At night, you can shoot indoors by jumping the flash (by turning the flash back to the indoor ceiling and shooting with the soft light reflected from the ceiling, which is more natural (Panasonic micro single GF and GX series have this function). One-stop aperture priority technique:

1. Whatever you shoot, don't shoot with the maximum aperture unless you want to keep the safety shutter. (For example, for a lens with 14MM, the safety shutter is 1/28, but actually 1/50 is the best). 2. Please try to use the aperture of F8 ~F 1 1 when shooting scenery. (large depth of field shooting) 3. Take close-ups of people and still lives. In order to maintain sharpness, you can use the maximum aperture to reduce the aperture of 1~2. Please try to control the safety shutter above the reciprocal of the focal length. The wide-angle shutter should also be above 1/30 seconds. If the shutter is insufficient, please increase the aperture or ISO.

Measurement method: 1. Don't point to the sky, don't point to the darkest place. Grab the middle value. 2. Make good use of metering modes (weighing metering, spot metering and central key metering) according to the subject matter you are shooting. 3. If you are not sure about metering, please use AE? Lock? Take a picture after exposing and locking the gray things around. 4. Try not to measure the light of white or black objects, otherwise please remember to subtract EV from black and add EV to white. EV？ That is exposure compensation? Exposure compensation is also an exposure control method, generally around 2-3EV. If the ambient light source is dark, you can increase the exposure value (such as+1EV, +2EV) to highlight the clarity of the picture. Most small digital cameras adjust exposure compensation through menus. In the process of digital camera shooting, if you press the half shutter, a picture similar to the final effect will be displayed on the LCD screen, and all focusing and exposure will start. The exposure at this time is the exposure of the final picture. If the picture is obviously bright or dark, it means that the automatic metering accuracy of the camera has a big deviation, and exposure compensation should be forced, but sometimes the brightness displayed during shooting is different from the actual shooting result. Digital camera can browse the picture immediately after shooting, and at this time, you can see the brightness of the shot picture more accurately, and there will be no discrepancy. If the shooting result is obviously bright or dark, it is necessary to shoot again and force exposure compensation. ? When the shooting environment is dark and it is necessary to increase the brightness, and the flash can't work, exposure compensation can be carried out to increase the exposure appropriately. When making exposure compensation, if the photo is too dark, the EV value should be increased. Every time the EV value increases, it is 1.0, which is equivalent to doubling the light input. If the photo is too bright, the EV value should be reduced. Every time the EV value is reduced, it is equivalent to doubling the amount of light entering. According to the compensation interval of different cameras, can you use? 1/2(0.5) or 1/3(0.3). When the photographed white object looks gray or not white enough in the photo, it is necessary to increase the exposure, which simply means "the whiter the more". This seems to run counter to the basic principles and habits of exposure, but it is not. This is because the camera's photometry often focuses on the central subject, and the white subject will make the camera mistakenly think that the environment is very bright, so it is underexposed, which is also a common problem that most beginners are prone to make. ? Because the shutter time or aperture size of the camera is limited, it is impossible to reach the adjustment range of 2EV all the time, so exposure compensation is not omnipotent, and it is still possible to underexpose in too dark environment. At this time, it is necessary to consider matching the flash or increasing the ISO sensitivity of the camera to improve the brightness of the picture. Generally speaking, the smaller the brightness contrast of the scene, the more accurate the exposure, otherwise the deviation will increase. There are high and low grades of cameras. If the grade is high, the measurement will be more accurate, and if the grade is low, the deviation will increase. If it is a traditional camera, the film tolerance is relatively large, and the exposure deviation will not be a big problem within a certain range, but the CCD tolerance of a digital camera is relatively small, and a slight exposure deviation may affect the overall effect.