Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Photography and portraiture - How to control the contrast of light in landscape photography
How to control the contrast of light in landscape photography
Due to the low tolerance of the photosensitive element of the camera, it is impossible to reproduce the Gao Fancha details seen by human eyes. HDR (High Dynamic Range) refers to a high dynamic range image, which usually depends on the scene environment. Three to five different exposure value images (for example, 2EV,-1EV, 0EV,+1EV, +2EV) are taken by peripheral exposure, and then synthesized. Usually, HDR photos give people a false feeling. In fact, it depends on everyone's proficiency and aesthetic feeling in software operation. Some people like heavy taste, while others can make HDR natural. In addition, many cameras now have built-in HDR function, which will automatically take three images of different exposure value for synthesis, which is very convenient, but the effect is not necessarily satisfactory. So, if you are interested in HDR, you might as well work hard on the post-production part of the software.
Scale reducing mirror
The gradient reducing mirror is a kind of filter. From full light transmission to full light transmission, the light transmittance decreases from top to bottom. The usage method is as follows: Write down the measured value in the dark, then set the camera to manual exposure, and then use the measured value as exposure value. When shooting, it is necessary to fix the camera on a tripod for better operation, and pick up the gradient reducing mirror to cover the over-bright part of the picture with the gradient opaque part to reduce the exposure of the bright part and make the contrast smaller, so as to shoot an ideal picture.
The unique black card in Taiwan Province Province.
It is difficult to verify the origin of the black card, but what is certain is that it was invented by clever photographers in Taiwan Province province, which is not found in the whole world. Its intention is simple, that is, to reduce the exposure of bright parts, which can be covered by a black cardboard or black gloves. Because it doesn't have a gradient like the above-mentioned reducing mirror, it must be exposed up and down or left and right. Shake it and there will be no black spots.
Its use method is very simple. First measure the light in the dark, shoot with this exposure value, and then look through the viewfinder or LiveView. The black card should be aimed at covering the bright part, press the shutter to start shaking, and then quickly pull away before the shutter closes. Remember, a long time is not as good as a short time, so the amount of light entering often needs the cooperation of ND decompressor. When you start shaking, count the time in your mind. Be sure to pull away before the shutter closes, and don't leave traces of black cards. Of course, the camera must be fixed on a tripod, and it needs constant practice to be handy.
Operation steps of shaking black cards (taking general order as an example)
First of all, we must master the time difference between bright and dark exposure. Suppose the sky needs to be exposed for 2 seconds and the landscape needs to be exposed for 10 seconds to get a balanced image, then cover the sky for 8 seconds (let the landscape be exposed), then pull out the black card, and the remaining 2 seconds can expose the sky and landscape.
Step 0 1. Assuming that the sky needs to be exposed for 2 seconds and the landscape needs to be exposed for 10 second, you can first set the shutter time = 10s on the timer shutter online.
Application of point metering
When shooting scenery outdoors, the control of contrast can be solved in the above way. If the contrast is not so big, generally speaking, weighing photometry can be used. However, if you are worried about misjudgment of photometry (for example, there are large white or dark areas in the picture), you can use spot photometry to take ideal photos.
The fourth highest mountain in the world in the Himalayas (Nikon D300+ 17mm end -55mm F2.8). Aperture F 14, shutter 1/400 seconds, ISO 200, automatic white balance)
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