How to shoot the sunrise and sunset night scene (Mid-Autumn Moon) and the sea of clouds with SLR Canon D50?

Well, actually sunrise and sunset are beautiful, but because the light ratio is too large, it is actually more difficult to shoot.

Generally speaking, there are two situations of sunrise and sunset, one is when the sun just rises and is about to set, and the other is the prime time that landscape photographers like, from 20 minutes before sunrise to half an hour after sunset.

The first case is relatively simple. Let's start with the first one.

1. First and foremost, you must wait until the sun turns orange or red before shooting. Visually, I don't feel bright or dazzling. Because strong sunlight passing through the lens is likely to burn your eyes and the sensor of the camera, otherwise you must use nd mirror.

2, pay attention to the use of clouds, clouds can reflect and refract light very well, and the effect is very dreamy.

3, three compositions: Unless you want to take a close-up of the sun (but the 200mm lens is not long enough), most of the time shooting the sunset is to express a big scene. Using your Sigma lens can highlight the wide angle and form a magnificent scene. If you think it is too wide, the 80mm of the 18-200 lens is closer to the human eye angle on your camera. You can try. Remember to put the horizon in the lower third of the picture, so that the picture is more harmonious.

4. Use white balance, or use daylight white balance, or manually set a warmer color temperature. Don't use incandescent lamps, shadows and other white balance, which will make the picture blue and have no warm color effect.

5. First choose the aperture. If it is in the process of sunrise and sunset, you can reduce the maximum aperture by 1 to 2 steps. Take it out and see the effect. If it is too bright, reduce the exposure compensation by 1/3 or 2/3 steps.

6. Because the sky will be bright, but the foreground of the ground will be dark, so if the sun is exposed correctly, the ground will be underexposed, otherwise the ground will be exposed correctly, and the sky will be dead white. The easiest way is to use a gradient lens. But this thing is cheap, and the color cast is serious. At least one or two thousand pieces of glass, if you don't have it on hand, it is not recommended. Another way is to take a silhouette or a sea of clouds. If there is a sea of clouds at sunset, the exposure will be much simpler, and basically it is enough to measure the sun. If there are pine trees, crowds and strange rocks in front, a single silhouette is also good and easy to operate.

7. It is ideal to have a tripod.

8. If you are a novice, you can improve your power through continuous shooting.

The second situation is 20 minutes before sunrise and after sunset. At this time, the light is fantastic, and it is easy to make a good film. But it will use some skills, which are difficult for beginners to master, but in short, if you have time, you can try:

1, the above contents are basically applicable, but the white balance is best measured by grey card.

2. Unless you have an iron hand, you must get on a tripod or use a high ISO.

3. On the tripod, shaking the black card and high light ratio also exist before sunrise or after sunset, but the shutter time will be extended because of the dark overall light. Using the same aperture to measure the light in the dark part and the light in the bright part, you will get two sets of shutter values, remember them separately. Look into the viewfinder and cover the bright part with black opaque cardboard. After that, you can press the shutter to expose, and the exposure time is subject to the dark part. Suppose that the result of photometry is 5 seconds for the dark part and 2 seconds for the bright part. Keep the black cardboard covering the bright part for 3 seconds and then draw it out quickly, so that the bright part and the dark part can be exposed accurately. Remember to shake the black card, that is, shake it vertically up and down, and the amplitude should not be greater than110 of the lens diameter, so that the transition is more natural and will not leave obvious light and dark shadows.

Let's talk about the sea of clouds It is relatively easy to shoot the sea of clouds at sunrise and sunset, because the light is soft and layered, but it is not easy to shoot the sea of clouds in broad daylight, mainly for white balance and photometry.

1. It is recommended to take a photo with clouds in manual focusing mode (focusing is not required) and set it as the benchmark for custom white balance.

2. If foreground and background exist at the same time, the problem of high light ratio mentioned above may occur. If the mountain is clearly photographed, the cloud is dead white, or if the cloud is clearly photographed, the mountain is dead white. It is suggested to measure the light of the cloud, and then reduce the exposure compensation 1-2 (the specific value can be tried).

3. Use bracketing exposure and do HDR later. Peripheral exposure can be found in the manual of the camera, that is, taking several photos with different exposures at a time, so that there are both bright and dark photos. Later, HDR can be synthesized by Canon's own software or PS. If exposure value is suitable, it is very likely that there will be a fairytale dream picture.

Manual code words are not easy. Let's talk so much first. You can call me if you don't understand.

By the way, I'm really not sure if you can produce RAW. Post-processing is easier, but the picture file is very large. You must have enough memory cards!