Shengli Tang: It’s not just Ding Zhen!

"White crane, please lend me your wings. Don't fly far away, just come back to Litang!"

I first met Litang from Cangcang. It begins with a poem by Yang Gyatso. Getting to know Litang again started with Ding Zhen, a young internet celebrity.

The real trip was made possible by just leaving once: in the midsummer July of 2018, with the yearning for freedom and the longing for the Holy Land, I trekked all the way to Litang, where I saw the beautiful grassland scenery. Here, in the peaceful Tibetan villages, in the quiet Buddhist temples, in the embrace of the bright sacred mountains, we will pursue the holy land that Tsangyang Gyatso longed for in his poems.

Located in Litang, southwest of Ganzi, Sichuan, the county seat is 4,014 meters above sea level and is known as the "Highest City in the World". The county has long been famous for its magnificent grassland scenery, clear and dust-free snow-capped sacred mountains, and famous Buddhist temples, attracting countless tourists.

Speaking of Litang, we have to mention Genie Mountain. This holy mountain, hidden deep in the mountains of western Sichuan, is more arrogant than Gongga Snow Mountain and more magnificent than Siguniang Mountain. It can be said to be the last secret realm among Sichuan Snow Mountains. Genie Holy Mountain is the third highest peak in Sichuan and the highest peak in Kangnan. It is the sacred mountain in the hearts of Tibetan compatriots and the thirteenth goddess among the 24 sacred mountains of Tibetan Buddhism. It is also known as the "Holy Land of Chakrasamvara" together with the Himalayas. Around the main peak, there are eight main ditches: Lenglong, Reti, Cameroon, Kuri, Hari, Zhongna, Zhongga and Xiaozha. They extend radially from the heart of Genie Mountain, like eight-petaled snow lotus blooming on the Western Sichuan Plateau. No matter how time changes, Genie Holy Mountain has stood firm in the endless years, accepting worship from devout believers and tourists, but not disturbed by the hustle and bustle of the outside world.

Although July is the rainy season in Genie, we were surprisingly lucky on this trip. We started from Litang County, passed through Lama Ya, Xiazetong Village, Naiqianduo Village, arrived at Hupiba and set up camp, and then Starting from Hupiba, passing through Xiaozhagou, Lenggusi, Gemu Village, Batang, Cuopu Township to Maoya Prairie, and returning to Litang along Route 318, the journey of several hundred kilometers and more than three days is full of sights. , the sky is clear, the snow-capped mountains are rolling, the flowers are blooming, and the villages are quiet. Occasionally, dark clouds cover the sky, heavy rain pours, or a drizzle comes with a gentle breeze in the evening. It is like the spice of the journey, allowing visitors to experience the changing weather and endless scenery of the sacred mountain, while also gaining an appreciation for this sacred place. It added a bit of awe.

Snowy mountains, forests, grasslands, lakes, streams, monasteries, Tibetan countryside, cattle, wild flowers... In midsummer in July, every inch of the wheel's journey is a charming picture that shocks the eye. Refreshing the soul. Drive to the hinterland of the Holy Mountain and find a perfect place to camp at the foot of the main peak of the Holy Mountain. Then you can enjoy the peaceful beauty of this sacred place: looking up at the snow-capped mountains, looking around at the green trees, and bending over the flowers. It looks like a brocade, with a gurgling stream... The scenery forms a well-proportioned sense of layering.

In such exquisiteness, you can either ride a horse and gallop on the plateau grassland decorated with flowers, showing off your heroic posture; or accompany three or five, along the winding stream, dancing in the wind. Prayer flags, go to Lenggu Temple to worship and receive spiritual cleansing; or, have a picnic on a plateau meadow surrounded by mountains and streams, and enjoy the Jiugongge, local chicken soup, sweet corn... all the way from the mountain city... …Travel and life are complete in the rich and fragrant chicken soup, the spicy and fragrant hot pot, the sweet and fragrant corn, and the heroic galloping on horseback.

Genie Mountain is a different scene at night, with a gentle breeze blowing and stars in the sky... A group of friends from all over the world danced happily around the bonfire with local herdsmen, enjoying the brilliant fireworks and stars. Flashing. At that moment, we all became happy children. All trapped souls have also been liberated, integrated with the spirit of the sacred mountain, and danced freely on the top of the plateau and at the foot of the sacred mountain. If you don’t like the hustle and bustle of the night, that’s okay. You can grab a glass of red wine, sit in the tent, and watch an interesting outdoor movie to add a bit of romance to the arduous cross-country journey... People are already asleep, and the night is over Deep, everything falls into silence. Between heaven and earth, apart from the mountains, rivers and plateaus, there are only this group of souls pursuing freedom.

In Litang, the Maoya Prairie is as famous as the Genie Mountain. Litang means "grass dam as flat as a bronze mirror" in Tibetan, and this "grass dam" is the vast Maoya Prairie. Maoya Prairie has also been selected as one of the most beautiful and wild grasslands in China because of its magnificent and beautiful scenery, and Litang is located on the grassland.

The Maoya Prairie in midsummer is a good time for blooming flowers and tapestry. High up, the sky is clear and white clouds are floating; in the distance, there are mountains and streams, and nearby, there are green grass and herds of cattle and sheep... Although it is not as vast as the Hulunbuir grassland, it is close to the green mountains, snow peaks, white clouds, and blue sky. , the stream is close, refined and smart. Dozens of kilometers of green grassland are decorated with various wild flowers and scattered tents and yurts. Cattle are leisurely walking and grazing on the grassland. In the morning, the smoke from the herdsmen's cooking fires rises straight up, mixing with the light mist rising from the grass. It is like an illusion, presenting a three-dimensional beauty... You can open your arms and deeply embrace the mountains, pastures, and streams. , feel the vastness of the world and the broadness of mind; you can also kiss the earth and wild flowers playfully like a child, roll around, and enjoy the fragrance of wild flowers.

The beauty of Litang goes far beyond nature. The profound humanities make this city more aura, such as the Changqingchun Ker Temple (also known as Litang Temple), which is famous in Tibetan areas.

With its magnificent architecture, dazzling array of religious instruments, various Buddha statues, exquisite sculptures and vast collection of documents, Changqingchun Ker Temple has become a treasure house of Tibetan religion, culture and art today. This ancient temple was founded by the third lama Suonan Gyatso in the eighth year of Wanli in the Ming Dynasty (1580). It is one of the oldest and largest Tibetan Buddhist temples in Kham.

Changqingchun Keer Temple was originally an important node in this midsummer trip. Unfortunately, due to an off-road vehicle being in danger, we had to return early and missed the opportunity to explore the rich humanities of this ancient temple. Chance. Perhaps, the regret left behind is the fate of coming back next time. Looking forward to seeing you again in Litang!

Tips

Address: Litang County, Garze Prefecture, Sichuan Province Surrounding attractions: Jiawa Xiangyang Temple, Xindu Bridge, Cuopu Valley Warm reminder: Litang is located on a plateau, so be prepared Relevant medicines are required to prevent altitude sickness, drink more water, quit smoking, and avoid strenuous exercise and excessive excitement.