The origin (legends, characteristics) of national costumes

The origin of Mongolian costumes can be traced back to distant prehistoric times. As early as the Paleolithic Age, humans began to decorate themselves with leaves of plants, and later made clothes out of hunting skins.

On the rock paintings of nomadic people in the north, ancient humans in the Mongolian plateau have been seen, with a short animal skin skirt around their waist, feathers on their heads, and some hips and tails. Moreover, a large number of rough stone rings, bone ornaments and other items have appeared, indicating that the nomadic people in the north have had aesthetic intentions and aesthetic pursuits long ago. According to archaeological data, the costumes of Mongolians come down in one continuous line with the costumes of ancient northern nomads in China.

According to the biography of Xiongnu in Han Dynasty, the headdress of Xiongnu women who eat animal meat and wear fur felt is very similar to that of Chahar women. The costume culture of Xiongnu was passed on to northern nomadic peoples such as Xianbei, Rouran and Turkic, and of course to Mongols. One of the characteristics of these national costumes is to adapt to the plateau climate.

Mongolian costumes have their own aesthetic characteristics. Mongolians especially like bright colors, which make people feel bright and happy. Mongolians also advocate some pure and bright colors such as white and sky blue. Blue sky and white clouds, green grass and red, a natural harmony.

In addition, judging from the style of Mongolian national costumes, the praised clothes and belts can not only reflect the curvy beauty of human body, but also reflect the bold and straightforward character of Mongolian shepherds.

Mongolians live in the Mongolian plateau, and the cold climate is mainly nomadic, so they have to migrate immediately for a long time. Therefore, their clothing must have a strong cold-proof effect and be easy to ride, and robes, vests and leather boots naturally become their first choice.

"A Brief History of Black Tatars" records: "Black Tatars wear right-handed shirts with collars, and a few of them are square collars. They are made of felt, leather, leather and silk. Their clothes are fat, long and mop the floor. In winter, they have two hairs, one inward and the other outward. The styles of men and women are similar. "

This kind of clothing, after a little reform, is still in use today, and is worn by both men and women in pastoral areas. There are three kinds: clip, cotton and leather. In winter, sheepskin is used as lining, and silk, satin and cloth are used as surface. Wear cloth, silk, satin and silk in summer. Generally use red, yellow, purple and dark blue. Sleeves are long and narrow, and the hem is not split. Skirts and hems are often trimmed with flannel, with a width of about 6 ~ 9 cm. When wearing it, lift it up slightly, tighten the waist with red and purple satin and hang it at both ends.

From ancient times to the Mongolian khanate, from Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties to the present, with the development of history, Mongolian people in past dynasties have exerted their wisdom and constantly absorbed the essence of brotherly national costumes in their long-term life and production practice, and gradually improved and enriched their traditional costumes in terms of types, styles, fabric colors and sewing techniques. , created many exquisite costumes, and added brilliant brilliance to the costume culture of the Chinese nation.

2. Manchu costumes

Manchu people who moved south to Liaodong in the Ming Dynasty used both cloth and leather. After Nurhachi led the troops, the costumes were chaotic, and the phenomenon of "uniformity from top to bottom" appeared. It was not until the era of Huang taiji that custom-made crown clothes began. After entering the customs, the clothes from the emperor to the soldiers are customized and insurmountable.

As for the idle flag-bearers, it was normal for all men to wear robes, made of satin or cloth, jackets and jackets. Manchu women's cheongsam has developed a lot and likes to be made of satin. In Beijing and other places, the practice of "eighteen inlays" is popular, that is, eighteen hems look good and the style has become a wide robe and big sleeves, which is a fashion in the Qing Dynasty.

After the Revolution of 1911, the style of cheongsam changed from fat to thin, and it was divided into long sleeves and short sleeves. After continuous improvement, the general style is: straight collar, narrow sleeves, big chest on the right, buckle and trip, waist-tied, knee-length, split on both sides. After Nuerhachi unified the Jurchen tribes, established the post-Jin regime, and implemented the Eight Banners system, Manchu people were all flag bearers, so the robes they wore were called "flag clothes" and "flag clothes".

3. Tibetan costumes

At present, the oldest and extant materials about Tibetan costumes are a few ornaments unearthed from Karuo site in Qamdo, including ornaments, pearls, necklaces, brand ornaments and shell ornaments, which reflect that the indigenous people on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau had a high aesthetic taste four or five thousand years ago, not only the bone needles for sewing clothes, but also pearls and pearls that needed a certain aesthetic consciousness to create.

Tibetan costume culture has made great progress. In the middle of Erding (equivalent to the middle of the Western Han Dynasty in the Central Plains), Tubo in the south of Yalong River basin began to smelt iron, copper, silver and other minerals, which created conditions for the emergence of metal ornaments. According to the historical records of Tibet, in the year of La Tuotuo Rizan in the third century A.D., the costumes of Tubo Zanpu were different, and there were different levels of costumes.

During the Zangambu period in Song Shizai, the history of Tubo turned a new page, with the rapid development of Tubo culture and its clothing culture. The Tubo slavery dynasty had a strict hierarchy, and its clothing performance became more and more complete.

From the Dunhuang frescoes reflecting the prosperity of Tubo, it can be seen that the grade difference of monarch and minister costumes is that the three-petal treasure crown that the Tibetan king can only use is surrounded by a grooved brimless hat, which is red and usually higher than ordinary people; The attendants or courtiers of Tibetan kings often wear flat-topped hats without eaves.

The style of the dress is also different. The official seal decoration has two specifications: first-class tinkling horse, second-class gold, third-class gold-plated silver, fourth-class silver, fifth-class copper and sixth-class iron, which are * * * 12, and are hung on the chest of Fiona Fang three-inch box to distinguish the positions.

The helmets of military commanders are decorated with towers, and the helmets of soldiers are marked with three colorful flags to indicate the date of birth. With the development of Tubo smelting industry, only tempering is paid attention to, and the armor of the army is becoming more and more sophisticated. Some of them only show two eye sockets, so the blades of bows and sharp edges cannot be broken. Their majesty and bravery are still vivid in the portraits of Tubo warriors in Jokhang Temple today. Tubo nobles not only wear luxurious clothes themselves, but also decorate their servants at parties and banquets.

Songtsan Gambu, as a Zamba, is dressed in a red belt, a robe and boots with toes up. According to "Red History", this kind of royal costume was influenced by Persian dynasty, which reflected that cultural exchange affected the cultural level of costume. Since the close communication between Tubo and the Central Plains at the beginning of Songzan Gambo, the long-term contact between the two national cultures has injected fresh blood into the development of Tibetan costumes.

When Princess Wencheng of Shizai entered Tibet, she brought 20,000 pieces of satin, brocade, silk, clothes of various colors, and a large number of gold and jade utensils. Songtsan Gambu and Tubo ministers have taken off their felt wool and replaced it with silk. A senior official in Tibet in modern times wore his hair in a bun and a white gauze hat with golden wings, which was the costume of a scholar in the Tang Dynasty.

In addition, Princess Wencheng's suggestion was adopted, which made China people forbidden to "paint their faces". Princess Wencheng also brought sericulture and textile technology into Tibet, and "planting mulberry and weaving silk" greatly promoted the development of Tibetan costume skills. A large number of cultural relics of Tibetan costumes unearthed in Dulan, Haixi Prefecture, Qinghai Province truly and vividly reflect the technological level of Tibetan costumes.

The fabric patterns of clothing are mostly animal patterns linked by beads, and the exquisite gold jewelry and accessories are amazing. Today, the mosaic shapes of Tibetan women's ornaments can be found in these cultural relics.

Tubo is a military empire. In the process of its development, it conquered and merged many other nationalities in the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau and its marginal areas, which is an important reason for the differences of Tibetan culture in different regions today. The same is true in the performance of clothing.

In the Tubo era, this difference was mainly manifested in the different costumes of oriental women, vassal States and Tangut tribes. Oriental women live in Kangyanchuan (now Changdu) and are in the development stage of matriarchal society. Their queen wears a blue wool and silk skirt, a blue robe with sleeves reaching to the ground, and lambs and furs decorated with brocade in winter. The attack was like a bun, and both earlobes were broken (earrings). Wear leather boots. Generally, men wear hair, and women are distinguished. Both men and women paint their faces with color.

The king died and lived in mourning for three years. It was not easy to get clothes and wash. The affiliated countries are a fusion of Tibetan and Qiang people centered in Ganzi, Sichuan, including Jiarong Tibetans in Aba, Sichuan. They wear round fur hats or curtains (that is, masks and other ornaments are worn by women). Wear fur and fur (one kind), fur and oxhide shoes. Tie an iron rope around your neck and put your hand through the shovel. Kings and chiefs use gold as jewelry, and three-inch-long golden flowers are hung on their chests.

The Tangut is a purely nomadic tribe. They "attack brown with blankets and decorate them with blankets". As early as the Northern Zhou Dynasty, exquisite rhinoceros armour and armored armour could be made. There are Deng Zhi, Wu Xingguo and Dangchang in the northwest of Sichuan, which belong to the Tangut Tribal Alliance. The costume custom is to hide black soap on the head, ride a hat, wear robes, trousers and leather boots, which are similar to Tibetan costumes in Sichuan pastoral areas today.

In addition, there are Tuguhun in Qinghai, ladies in brocade robes and Dai Jinhua crowns. For example, a woman's hairstyle is put in the back, decorated with pearls, and the variety is noble. This kind of dress is roughly the same as that of Tibetan women in Qinghai today. The characteristics of costumes in these areas are the matrix types of different Tibetan costumes in different places today.

After the collapse of the Tubo dynasty, Tibetan society has been in a state of chaos from the middle of the ninth century to the eleventh century. During this period, the war was unbearable, and the development of costume art was bound to stagnate, while the samurai costumes related to the war developed rapidly. In the ruins of Ali Guge Kingdom, a large number of armor and weapons of ancient warriors were unearthed.

Another feature of costume development in this period is the rise of Buddhist monk costumes. In the 8th century AD, the first batch of monks appeared in Tibet. Their clothes were supplied by the Zambian national treasury, and then by the people and the government. Buddhist costumes also form hierarchical differences, and there are different costumes in festivals and peacetime, which are self-contained. Many upper-class monks live in luxury and dress luxuriously. They sat down in heavy clothes, umbrellas and brocade.

The costumes of early Tibetan monks were greatly influenced by India. According to legend, the North Xiamao was first given to Nima Fa Wang Lian Peanut by the Indian king, and it has been handed down and become a kind of hat for Tibetan monks. But later, the costumes of Tibetan monks developed rapidly and had local colors. More than 200 years after Longdama destroyed Buddhism, Buddhism rose again and formed many factions. Each faction is different not only in the interpretation of Buddhist scriptures, but also in their costumes.

In ancient Ma Ning, monks wore red cassock, so they were also called red religion. The kagyu faction wears red hats or black hats to show the difference between tribes. This phenomenon of using costumes to represent identity and belief is one of the important functions of Tibetan costume culture and a distinctive feature in the history of Tibetan costume.

During the Yuan Dynasty, Tibet belonged to the central dynasty, so it was closely related to the Yuan Dynasty in all aspects of culture, and its clothing was more influenced than that of the previous dynasty. In Tibet, the Yuan Dynasty enfeoffed officials at all levels, such as peace envoys, Zhao 'an envoys and tens of thousands of households. People of different grades wear Tibetan robes with different decorations and different crowns. Even before the democratic reform, a set of official dress names of four officials of the government of Gaxia still retained the name of the Yuan Dynasty, "White Horse with Inch Flowers".

The main symbol of official products is also the difference in the top decoration of Mongolian "Jiangda" (that is, the round crown). The hats of officials, nobles' butlers, attendants and servants also have certain forms. The big housekeeper should wear "Suoxia" (that is, a flat-topped Mongolian hat with ears) when holding a ceremony, and so on.

There is also a kind of hat in the shape of "Natsume Baoduo" cake, which is usually worn by nobles and often worn by housekeepers or village officials. During this period, the costumes of the upper-level officials and nobles of Sakya School were either imitated by Mongolian nobles or directly given to the Yuan Dynasty, which was very common to wear. Pastoral areas in northern Tibet have more contact with Mongolians, and there are still some Mongolian costume customs.

Another feature of Tibetan costumes in Yuan Dynasty is that religious beliefs have increased influence on costumes. With the revival of Buddhism and the formation of strict ranks of monks, religious culture has penetrated into clothing, shoes and hats in various forms and means, and expressed a specific meaning with specific patterns or symbols. This phenomenon also affects folk costumes, such as the appearance of Tibetan robes, which imitate the colors of robes and decorations printed with religious symbols and Buddhist magic weapons.

By the Ming Dynasty, the ties between the central government and Tibet were further strengthened. In the Ming Dynasty, Zhang DuDu and Duo Ganxing DuDu were established to govern the Tibetan areas in present-day Tibet, Gansu, Qinghai and western Sichuan. They often gave a large number of brocade and silk to the upper class nobles in Tibetan areas. Judging from the tributes in Tibetan areas, shuttlecock, tassel, foot hemp, iron hemp and other textile products account for most of the tributes.

It shows that the textile industry in Tibetan areas also developed greatly at that time. Textile industry is the foundation of clothing development. Another excellent condition for the development of Tibet's clothing industry in the Ming Dynasty was the large-scale tea-horse exchange between the Central Plains and Tibetan officials and people, which imported a large amount of cloth, silk, satin and textiles to Tibet, which was beyond the reach of any previous era.

In addition, the Tibetan opera art in Tibet developed greatly in the Ming Dynasty, and the costume art, which is inseparable from the Tibetan opera art, naturally rose rapidly. In addition to the daily costumes of the nobles in history, Tibetan opera costumes also developed another highly exaggerated costume and a large number of masks. Moreover, these costumes and masks are arranged in strict accordance with the status of the drama role, serving its personality characteristics.

This kind of clothing is gorgeous and exaggerated, pays attention to expressiveness and has strong decorative effect. After artistic treatment, they successfully put Tibetan costumes on the stage of drama, adding new blood to Tibetan costume culture. At the same time, it has greatly promoted the development of Tibetan drama, dance, art and other arts.

The Qing Dynasty was an unprecedented unified multi-ethnic country in the history of China. During this period, the cultures of all ethnic groups in China have been greatly developed and increasingly stereotyped. It is most closely related to today. Tibetan costume culture is no exception, so we will focus on Tibetan costume culture in Qing Dynasty, and further explore the structure, artistic characteristics, aesthetic characteristics and production technology of Tibetan costume culture, so as to deepen the characteristics of Tibetan costume culture.

4. Zhuang costumes

Before the end of Qing Dynasty (19 1 1), the clothes worn by Zhuang people were all self-spun, self-woven and self-stitched. At that time, women's clothes were more colorful than men's. They are wearing blue dry clothes with big breasts, and their skirts and sleeves are embroidered with large lace from the collar to the right armpit. The collar is very short and shows their necks.

I'm wearing a long, ankle-length pleated skirt, or a pair of wide pants with lace. Outside the skirt, in the center of my leg, I embroidered a large vertically symmetrical lace and made several folds on my hips. The foot of my skirt under my hip was rolled up about an inch, and several stitches were sewn on both sides to form an arched back skirt. Seen from the front, it is a tube skirt, and seen from the back, it is a folding skirt. The upper and lower dresses are close to my body, and the lines are particularly clear and elegant.

Embroidered shoes with round feet. The coat worn by a strong man is a black cloth double-breasted coat with a round neck and wide sleeves, and there are 7-9 buttons on both sides. The buttons are woven with black cloth, and the two front buttons are buckled when put on.

Men's underwear, that is, pants, are also made of black cloth, and the pants are relatively wide, usually 1- 1.2. Adults, especially the elderly, wear a black scarf about 4-5 feet long on their heads, or sew it with a black rectangular cloth, with a crease at the top and a round hole at the top. Usually, people usually walk barefoot, and only when visiting relatives and friends during the Chinese New Year holiday will they put on earth cloth shoes or dragon and phoenix shoes.

During this period after the end of the Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China, women changed to wear wide Tang-style trousers and a half-ankle apron at the front of their waist. The top of the apron is tied with two printed ribbons at the back, and two feet at each end are used as streamers. The strong man changed into a double-breasted Tang suit and wide pants. Wear earth shoes. Men wear Chinese tunic suits and cut western-style heads when reading. The old man wore a black cloth towel on his head.

After 1949, the clothes of urban residents, government officials, school students, etc. Zhuang areas follow closely the changes in the whole country, and generally wear tunic suits and cadres' uniforms, just like the local Han people. With the development of economy, people can even see Zhuang compatriots' suits and ties in remote mountainous areas, not to mention flowered skirts and dresses. Traditional Zhuang costumes have also quietly changed.

5. Bai costumes

In ancient times, the ancestors of Bai people must have lived in groups. Make a living by hunting and fishing. Use leaves to shelter from the cold and hide your shame. According to archaeological discoveries, Bai Yi's ancestors had mastered textile technology 3000 years ago. Stone spinning wheels, bones or horny needles have been unearthed from Neolithic sites such as Haimenkou in Jianchuan, Waselu Goose Mountain in Dali, Cangshan Mountain in Dali and Baiyang Village in Binchuan, which proves that textiles began to come out.

Bai ancestors also began to have simple costumes. Of course, due to the limitation of social and historical conditions, the main function of clothing at first was undoubtedly to keep warm and keep out the cold. By Nanzhao period, the silk weaving industry in Dali had appeared in large numbers. "Weaving", silk products containing textured flowers have greatly increased.

During the period of 1974, the relevant units in Yunnan Province and Dali Prefecture conducted an investigation in Sanying Flame Mountain Tower in Eryuan County, Dali Prefecture, and found the silk products of Dali State in the tower, which were well preserved and identified as one white and three silk, which was indeed a rare data for studying silk weaving technology at that time.

During Nanzhao period, most luxurious clothes were sewn with silk, brocade and silk woven with fine silk. The costumes of Nanzhao King and Qingping Palace are resplendent and magnificent, decorated with tiger skins. In the two-year scroll of Nanzhao Zhongxing in the Tang Dynasty, the costumes of the royal family and officials depicted are described in detail. Nanzhao Dehua Monument contains "two-color brocade robe" as a meritorious reward.

"Interpreting Names and Picking Silk": "Lingling, Ye Ling, its grain shape is like ice, and its reason is also." Light and thin, spun with fine silk. In order to make clothes more beautiful, people not only make embroidery patterns on clothes, but also beautify them. In 800 AD, Nanzhao presented a large-scale song and dance "Nanzhao Sheng Feng Le" to the court of the Tang Dynasty, and expressed it in other ways. The actors wore Nanzhao national costumes and painted flowers and plants on their dresses, shoes and hats.

The art of "eight colors" has experienced the evolution process from low level to high level and from simple to complex. Therefore, during Nanzhao period, the high level of modeling design of Bai nationality in weaving, dyeing, embroidery and arts and crafts is rare in southern China. The integration of weaving, dyeing, painting and embroidery is a remarkable symbol of the vigorous development of textile industry and clothing art in Bai nationality areas in Tang Dynasty, which provides strong evidence for the study of Bai nationality clothing art at that time.

During the period of Nanzhao Dali Kingdom, the basic shape and style of Bai upper-class costumes were relatively fixed, and the quality of corresponding people's costumes was also improved, and embroidered costumes appeared. Although there is no official luxury in silk fabric, it still has a rough sense of modeling and beauty. Generally speaking, the clothing of this period has a remarkable feature: it pays attention to tone and decorative color, and dyeing and embroidery are more common.

The types of clothing reflect people's aesthetic standards, social customs, cultural interests and the level of productivity development at that time. It constitutes the "clothing culture" of the Bai nationality. This culture has been playing a great role in the evolution of Bai costumes in Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties.

With the passage of time, historical changes and social changes, the costumes of Bai people have also changed accordingly. However, the formation of Bai costumes is always cut and arranged by specific customs and ways of thinking. Therefore, Nanzhao Dali culture still exists in modern Bai costumes, which are self-contained and unique, and always maintain a unique tradition different from other ethnic groups. ?

Extended data:

First, Hanfu

The Han nationality is the main ethnic group in China, and the ancient traditional national costume of the Han nationality is Hanfu. According to legend, it was invented by the Yellow Emperor. Han Fu had a basic nature from the Western Zhou Dynasty, and it was completely perfected and popularized in the Han Dynasty. During this period, until the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, Han people had been wearing Hanfu for thousands of years in the Han Dynasty. Hanfu is one of the national costumes with a long history in the world.

Second, a brief introduction to Hanfu

Ancient Hanfu is also called Hanzhuang and Huafu. There are overlapping right lapels and straight lapels, and the sleeves are divided into wide sleeves, small sleeve sleeves and Hu Chui sleeves. Hanfu has influenced the whole Chinese cultural circle through the Huaxia legal system, and some ethnic groups in Asian countries, such as Japan, Korea, Vietnam, Mongolia and Bhutan, have or learn from the characteristics of Hanfu.

In the early years of the Qing Dynasty, Manchu rulers implemented the policy of "shaving hair and changing clothes", forbidding people to wear Hanfu and have long hair. Since then, the ancient Hanfu has gradually disappeared from people's lives.

Due to the policy of "ten obedience and ten disobedience" in the Qing court, the ancient Hanfu did not completely disappear, and people can still see her shadow. For example, the costumes of Taoist and Buddhist monks have been preserved. The influence of ancient Hanfu is far-reaching. Many ethnic minorities in China and some ethnic groups in Japanese, Korean, Vietnamese, Mongolian, Bhutan and other Asian countries borrowed and inherited the characteristics of Hanfu in ancient times.

Hanfu has a long history and diverse styles. Each dynasty has its own characteristics, but the main characteristics remain unchanged. Hanfu can be divided into formal clothes and regular clothes.

Among them, the coronation under the coat is the most solemn and formal dress for emperors and officials; Robe clothes (deep clothes) are common clothes for officials and scholars, while skirts are popular among women. Ordinary working people generally wear short clothes and pants. Accessories headdress is one of the important parts of Han costumes. Ancient Han men and women put their hair in a bun, put it on their heads, fixed it with knots, and put on crowns to show their adulthood.

Third, the characteristics of Hanfu

The main features of Hanfu are cross-collar, straight front and waist, tied with rope and hooked, giving people a free and easy impression. These characteristics are obviously different from the costumes of other nationalities. Hanfu Hanfu can be divided into formal clothes and regular clothes.

From the shape point of view, there are mainly three kinds: "top and bottom clothes" (ancient top refers to bottom skirt), "deep clothes" (top and bottom clothes are sewn together) and "skirt" (short clothes).

Men often wear crowns, towels, hats and so on. , different shapes. Women's bun can also be combed into various styles, and various ornaments such as beading and walking can be worn on the bun. Both sides of the temple are decorated with rich temples, and some of them wear curtains and hijab. Another important feature of Han people's decoration is that they like to decorate Yu Pei jade.

Fourth, the costumes of the Han nationality in different periods:

1, ancient

According to China's traditional ancient books, Hanfu was made by the Yellow Emperor about 5,000 years ago or during the Yellow Emperor's period. For example, in the History Book of the Han Dynasty, the courtiers of the Yellow Emperor "Apollo made clothes" and "Hu Cao made crowns". The Book of Changes says that "the Yellow Emperor Yao Shun hangs down his clothes to rule the world". Records of the Five Emperors said that Lei Zu, the wife of the Yellow Emperor, raised silkworms and made silk for clothes.

Archaeological findings confirmed that bone needles and spinning wheels were found in Peiligang Cultural Site and Baijiacun Site in Lintong, Shaanxi Province seven or eight thousand years ago, indicating that people at that time could already spin cloth and make clothes. By the time of Yangshao culture about 5000 years ago, not only a large number of spinning wheels were found, but also a large number of cloth prints were found on pottery.

Ramie and cocoon were also found in the ruins of the same period. It shows that primitive agriculture and textile industry have appeared at this time, and people's clothes are becoming more and more complete. Linen woven from ramie is fed by silkworms. However, the clothing objects of this period have not been found in archaeological excavations so far.

2. Xia, Shang and Western Zhou Dynasties

The clothes of this period inherited the characteristics of ancient times, and there is sufficient physical evidence to prove that the basic characteristics of Hanfu have been determined at this time: horizontal collar, right collar and lace are the most basic typical characteristics, and up and down are the most basic styles. Among the various glyphs of Oracle Bone Inscriptions and Jinwen, the word "Yi" in a common glyph is the image of a shirt with a collar and a right shirt.

Jade people unearthed from Yin Ruins in Anyang, Henan Province also wear this kind of clothing, which is the earliest and most complete clothing style unearthed in China. The bottom dress that matches the coat with collar, right slit and lace is a "skirt". The dress under the coat is the most basic style of Hanfu. The word "clothes" is still a general term for clothes in Chinese.

3. Qin and Han Dynasties

The costumes in the Qin and Han Dynasties basically followed the Warring States period, and were still dominated by deep clothes, which were roughly divided into two types: curved and straight, and could be worn by both men and women. In Qin and Han dynasties, clothes with deep curves were the most common clothes among women's clothes. This kind of clothes is tight and narrow, long and mop the floor, and the hem is generally trumpet-shaped, so it doesn't show its feet. Wear a few clothes, and the collar of each layer will be exposed, up to more than three layers, which is called "triple clothes".

Because of the improvement of underwear in the Han Dynasty, it was unnecessary to wrap clothes in front, so straight lines gradually became popular after the Eastern Han Dynasty.

Due to the popularity of deep clothes, the number of women wearing long skirts has decreased, but it has not disappeared, and there are many descriptions in Han Yuefu's poems. The skirt styles in this period are generally very short, only reaching the waist, while the skirt is very long and hangs to the ground. 1957, the Yan skirt was found in the tomb of Mo Zuizi in Wuwei, Gansu Province.

During the Han Dynasty, China enjoyed unprecedented prosperity in culture, economy, politics and military affairs, and the Han nationality became another name of the Chinese nation. The dress etiquette system in this period was also very complete, so an idiom "Han Guan Wei Yi" appeared to praise the dress system in Han Dynasty. The name "Hanfu" also indirectly comes from this.

4. Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties

During the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, clothing was a relic of the Han Dynasty, but the style of Hanfu became chic and elegant because of the prevailing atmosphere. Celebrities in Wei and Jin dynasties often wore wide coats, or wore a strange underwear similar to today's halter top under their coats, instead of Hanfu. This style of clothes is only available in this era. For the style, see Beiqi School's book spectrum.

Perhaps influenced by the nomadic people in the north, coats and trousers became popular among men in the Central Plains in this era. Pants and pants are called each other. Due to the hot and humid climate in the south, high-toothed clogs became popular. Dress (miscellaneous clothing) is a kind of dress in women's wear in Wei and Jin Dynasties.

Clothing in Wei and Jin Dynasties inherited the style of pursuing wealth and luxury in the Eastern Han Dynasty. Clothes are styles with sharp corners on both sides. During the Wei and Jin Dynasties, people hung ribbons next to my clothes with sharp corners. Clothing looks elegant, which is the word "fancy flying" at that time.

5. Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties

During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, Hanfu began to develop with high-end innovation, but it did not deviate from its basic characteristics. The main dress style of women in Sui and Tang Dynasties is still the unity of skirt, blouse and blouse. Chest-length skirts are very popular among women, that is, skirts that lift the lower skirt to the chest with silk.

Among the ladies, they also wear gift clothes. Flower patterns are widely used in Hanfu decoration, with lively and free composition, symmetrical density, plump and round, and bold colors. At this time, the clothing pattern design tends to express the artistic style of freedom, fullness and fatness.

Men's wear in Tang Dynasty based on robes and shirts, also known as Fu Tou, was the first kind of clothing formed on the basis of Han and Wei Dynasties. In addition to wearing round neck and narrow sleeves, officials still wear dresses on some important occasions, such as sacrificial ceremonies.

The styles of formal dress are mostly inherited from the old system of the previous dynasty, wearing veils or cage crowns, double-breasted sleeves, ribbons from overskirt and Yu Pei, etc. The basic banquet of costumes in the Five Dynasties followed the costumes of the Tang Dynasty without much change.

6. Song Dynasty

Due to the political atmosphere in the early Song Dynasty, Hanfu was no longer gorgeous and luxurious, but simple and simple. Han men's wear in Song Dynasty followed two traditional clothing styles: wide chest, right collar and round neck.

On the basis of following the basic system of the previous generation, women's clothing of Han nationality in Song Dynasty is more varied than men's clothing. In Song Dynasty, the clothes were long-sleeved, with long sleeves and crotch under the armpit, that is, the clothes were not stitched back and forth, and there were belts under the armpit and back suffix. In the middle and late Song Dynasty, when the country was rich, people's clothes began to be luxurious. Most people wear silk.

7. Yuan Dynasty

Although the Yuan Dynasty was founded by Mongols, the Mongols did not implement the policy of shaving hair and changing clothes similar to that of the Qing Dynasty, so the folk costumes were still Hanfu. The daily clothes of court officials and literati in Yuan Dynasty were mostly narrow-sleeved robes, and Mongolian women also wore robes. However, women in China still wear Hanfu, among which Fu skirts are more popular. Only in style, Mongolian clothing and Hanfu are more or less interactive.

8. Ming dynasty

After Zhu Yuanzhang, the founding emperor of the Ming Dynasty overthrew the Yuan Dynasty, he ordered the world to "know how to serve like the Tang and Song Dynasties", so the clothing style of the Ming Dynasty resumed the tradition of Hanfu. Men's wear basically follows two traditional clothing styles: wide chest, right collar and round neck. However, some characteristics of Yuan Dynasty costumes were absorbed, and some special costumes such as Tusa were developed. Women's dresses in the Ming Dynasty were still dominated by skirts.

It should be noted that women's jackets and shirts made in the Ming Dynasty are more distinctive and popular. The outer coats are mostly pipa sleeves with cuffs, which can wrap the collar and collar. The lower skirt is mostly equipped with a horse-faced pleated skirt and an ordinary pleated skirt. In addition to shirts, coats and skirts that have been circulating, Xia Zi, Xunzi, Gaby and other fresh styles are also popular, and the types, styles and workmanship of clothes have reached a peak.

In men's wear in the Ming Dynasty, adults often wore wide straight bodies and square flat towels on their heads, while ordinary people wore short coats and headscarves. At this time, a small hat with six petals and eight petals appeared, which looked like a watermelon cut in half.

It was first worn by servants, but later it became popular because it was convenient to wear. This is the predecessor of the "melon hat" in the Qing Dynasty. Metal buckles and buttons also became popular in the Ming Dynasty, but shoelaces still existed.

9. Qing dynasty

1644, Manchu entered the customs, implemented the policy of shaving hair and changing clothes, and prohibited wearing Hanfu, forcing the traditional clothing system of Han nationality to be suspended.

During the period of Kangxi and Yongzheng, Han women still kept the style of Hanfu in Ming Dynasty (ten from ten: men from ten from women), and small sleeve clothes and long skirts were popular; After finishing, the clothes are getting fatter and shorter, the cuffs are getting wider and wider, and with the cloud shoulders, the pattern renovation is endless; By the end of the Qing Dynasty, urban women had put on skirts and trousers, which were inlaid with lace and rolled teeth, and most of the expensive clothes were spent on them.

In order to protect cultural relics and clothes, people from all walks of life of the Han nationality rebelled against the policies of the Qing government in various ways. The people of the whole country revolted against the policy of shaving and changing clothes many times, but they were suppressed by the Qing government, which led to the 10 th tragedy in Yangzhou.

Farmers' uprisings in Qing Dynasty, such as An Baili, Taiping Heavenly Kingdom and Nianjun, all wore a lot of Hanfu. Some Taiping generals refused to mix clothes with Manchu elements, while others preferred to fight directly in clothes.

Republic of China 10

19 10 (Xuantong two years), the high council decided to cut braids and change clothes, and people of all ethnic groups in China began to cut braids. Some people also advocated restoring the costume culture of the Han, Hui and Miao nationalities, which was forbidden by the Qing government.

Because learning from the West was advocated during the Republic of China, China people at that time formally changed to western-style clothes, and women's clothes were also changed to cheongsam by adding western-style tailoring. Most Han people gradually think that western-style cut cheongsam and mandarin jacket are traditional Manchu costumes.

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Today, some people's lives are guaranteed, and they begin to think about the restoration and revival of China's traditional culture. More and more young people and people with lofty ideals have joined the team to revive Chinese culture, but there are still great controversies and obstacles in society.

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