Part 5 of "The Travels of Seda", Wuming Buddhist Academy (Extra Chapter)

There is a place. When people who have never been there see the photos online, the first word that comes to mind is: shocking; when people who have been there come back to describe it, the first word that comes out of their mouths is also: shocking. ! This place is the Larung Gar Buddhist Academy in Sedar—the largest Tibetan Buddhist academy in the world. The densely packed red stilts, the magnificent "mandala" on the top of the mountain, and the quiet and bright blue starry sky all create a spectacular and unique scenery. The most touching thing is the devout temple lamas, Juemu and the pilgrims crawling along the way. In short, this is a Buddhist country for the soul, a place of refuge for faith, and a shocking place that must be visited once in this life!

The 730-kilometer journey is neither too far nor too close, but it actually took two days. Of course, there were breaks in between. I went to the Guanyin Temple in Guanyinqiao Town for a short half day (about 3 hours), and went to the Sky Burial Platform on the mountain side for a short half day (about 3 hours). Along the way, you can see prostrate pilgrims from the car windows. They come to Seda from different places to worship. It is said that many of them have to pray for several years to arrive, and some people pass away halfway, and finally their companions arrive at the college with their ashes and photos. It is said that there are many photos of such pilgrims next to the prayer wheels. When I think of these, I always feel an inexplicable touch in my heart.

The tour bus we took can only drive to the parking lot of the Buddhist College. Then we took our luggage and walked a few hundred meters uphill to the bus departure station inside the Buddhist College and queued up to take the bus. The car enters "Laronggou". Maybe it's because during the Spring Festival, there is only one bus and one minibus in transit. The bus costs 2 yuan and the minibus costs 3 yuan. Anyway, they are crowded together because there are many people coming, including those driving private cars, and they have to leave their cars. Parked in the parking lot outside the Buddhist College.

The minibus passed through the "Lama District" and arrived at the terminus of the "Juemu District". Two points need to be explained here: First, Lao Yi and I were "lucky", and it was actually a high-cost 3 yuan. The minibus was actually more expensive than the bus. I and a bunch of luggage were squeezed under the front windshield, and he and I Several girls crowded on the hood; secondly, in Tibetan areas, male practitioners are collectively called "Lama" and female practitioners are collectively called "Juem". There are also villages in Laronggou, and minibuses and minibuses pass by in turn, painted The yellow villages are about the same size as the red "Lama District", and the size of the "Juemu District" is almost the sum of the village plus the "Lama District". Coupled with the overwhelming majority of women on our bus, it can be seen that women have a need and persistence in faith!

Many people’s impression of Seda is these densely packed red houses, and they think it is very mysterious. In fact, it is like a slum in India or a housing estate in Hong Kong. Each house is almost less than ten square meters, and The interior is minimally furnished, with no furniture, except for Buddhist niches and statues, and some only have a mattress (for meditation or sleeping). The only difference is that the architectural style is unified, and the roof and exterior walls are painted with red paint. It is conceivable that the life of the practitioners here is simple, even difficult.

From the parking lot of "Juemu District" on the mountainside to the Larong Hotel on the top of the mountain, you have to pass through several halls (Sutra transmission hall, Sutra debate hall, Dazhai hall, etc.), and then there are two roads to go there . One is a driveable concrete road that goes around the mountain; the other is a 324-step road that goes almost straight. The tour guide "Jimei Duoji" is a Khampa boy, so of course he took us on a shortcut. Unexpectedly, just these 324 steps would cause many people who were "okay" to become "high-definition". If you have empty hands, you can climb up, walk for a while, and rest for a while, but if you have to walk with a load, it is not only very concrete, but also terrifying. But who would travel empty-handed? ! Some of them, like me or Lao Yi, each have a backpack; some of them have a trolley case, a large backpack, and a handbag; especially girls, they may bring a few extra sets of clothes of different styles in order to take pictures. Accessories, that guy, there are a lot of them! ! Now, it has all become a burden and encumbrance! ! !

What I remember most is a tall girl (about 172cm), wearing a tulle skirt and high heels, dragging a large box, carrying two large handbags, and carrying a small leather bag. After taking just a few steps, her face turned pale, her steps faltered, and her two female companions were too busy taking care of themselves. Because they were traveling on another tour bus, I ignored her at first and instead helped a Beijing girl on the same bus carry a suitcase up the steps. After walking for a short distance, I saw that she had thrown away the box and satchel and was sitting on the steps, looking like she was about to die.

On the one hand, "doing no good even if it is small" is the basic quality of Buddhists. On the other hand, I am a "nosy" and "pity the beauty", so I can't help it. He went over and gave her the emergency oxygen he had prepared while helping her carry the box up the 324 steps.

After a lot of effort, everyone finally reached the Larung Hotel on the top of the mountain and went back to their rooms to repair. After a while, the sun began to set slowly. Lao Yi and I, as well as a few "strong" friends in the same car, came out of the hotel and climbed to another higher mountain to watch the sunset and the night view of the entire bottom of the ditch. Although I was very tired, I was still infected and intoxicated by the scenery in front of me.

You can't appreciate the magnificence here unless you are there. Many scenes and feelings, even the language and words seem very pale. I can only describe it this way - one word, beautiful; two words, very beautiful; three words, very Beauty; ten words, a beauty that shocks the soul!

After listening to the night class at the Sutra Hall at the foot of the mountain, I dragged my tired body, especially my legs, up the 324 steps again, back to the Larung Gar Hotel on the top of the mountain, and experienced the Valley of Silence along the way. There is no time to appreciate the brilliant starry sky. Passing through the corridor of the hotel, I could only hear the "cries of ghosts and howls of wolves" from the people who were tortured by the "High Rebellion". I suddenly realized that heaven and hell are often the same place. For everyone, the difference lies in their own practice. (In the early hours of the morning, someone was actually taken to the county hospital by ambulance for rescue, which ended this spiritual journey ahead of schedule.)

In Seda, there were many things that shocked my whole body and mind, too many things related to the mundane world. A sharp contrast to the secular world. For example, when we arrived at Sedar after 11 noon, we saw an old man worshiping on a wooden board dedicated for pilgrimage; during night classes, we saw him still kneeling and prostrating; when we got up at 6 a.m. the next morning, we found that he was still worshiping. (I don’t know if he stayed up all night or got up earlier than us). The snow on the wooden board next to her was already very thick, but hers was clean. In the afternoon, I passed by and found that she had been worshiping. This is the power of faith!

The so-called faith, in my opinion, may be a kind of spiritual sustenance, and it is also something I am constantly looking for. In the eyes of people with faith, people without faith are miserable. Fortunately, I, who was once miserable, have found something to rely on in Seda. How lucky I am. Perhaps, this is the so-called "fate".

Speaking of the fate with Serta, I can’t help but think of an old incident -

In the early 1980s, the wish-fulfilling Dharma King Jigme Phuntsok reported to relevant government departments An application was made to establish Larung Gar Buddhist College in Serthar. At that time, my uncle happened to be in charge of ethnic, religious, and united front work in the state capital. He attached great importance to this application. In the spirit and style of "from the masses, to the masses", he personally led a team to the field in Seda. After inspecting and making requests and suggestions to Jigme Phuntsok, the application was finally approved, making Larung Gar Buddhist College successfully built. Afterwards, the Karmapa of the Wish-fulfilling Principle invited my uncle many times to visit the completed Buddhist academy. However, the latter was unable to make the trip because he was busy with government affairs. However, I never thought that in the blink of an eye over 20 years ago, the old friends who cherished each other would be gone forever!

The reason for coming to Sedar this time is that Lao Yi’s wife, who lives in Singapore and is a disciple of Larung Gar Buddhist College, wants to make a pilgrimage, but due to physical reasons, she cannot. When I visited the Holy Land in person, I entrusted my husband to fulfill my wish. Since Lao Yi and I are close friends and believers in Buddhism, we were invited to go with us.

So, I witnessed with my own eyes this legendary last "pure land" in the world!

Be kind and keep Bodhi without worry

The holy Brahma City has the true meaning

Be enlightened and contemplate me and you

Prajna Paramita

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