Miss Cantonese cuisine: I almost got lost eating the legendary Babao roast duck in Fangcun.

What conditions should a city have to become a gourmet capital?

Countless people may give countless answers. As far as pudding is concerned, it is only when you come to Guangzhou that you truly understand the meaning of the food capital. It is extremely tolerant of foods from different regions, extremely picky about ingredients, and strives for perfection in the process of making food. These are the foundations for Guangzhou to become a gourmet capital.

Most people who are familiar with Guangzhou cuisine know that the probability of finding old-fashioned food in Baiyun Old District of Yuexiu, Liwan is much greater than that in Luogang, Tianhe. There is an immature conjecture about pudding. There may be two reasons. First, the chefs and diners in the old areas have become close neighbors for many years. Second, in order to let neighbors eat ingenious products, the old masters insist on small profits but quick turnover even if the price doubles.

Some stores insist on low quality and diners insist on helping spread the virtuous circle. In this cycle, the core is actually the human touch of the old street. Many lost Cantonese dishes, such as Babao duck and sweet-scented osmanthus dregs, have to go to the old street to find them, so that we can hope to find these lost treasures.

Qixianglou, located in Wuyan Bridge, Fangcun, Liwan District, is such an old Cantonese restaurant. Walking into the depths of the alley from Wuyanqiao Cross Street, I almost got lost in Fangcun. At the first sight of the dilapidated facade of Qi Xiang Building, you can basically know that such a place should not impose any environment and services.

Qixianglou was founded in 1980s. Compared with a century-old store in Guangzhou, Qixianglou is just a little brother. But for the neighborhood living nearby, it has been accompanied by ups and downs for decades. Open at six o'clock in the morning to make a tea market and cook at noon and evening. Open a small facade on the first floor to make a cake house and sell zongzi on holidays, which is full of management wisdom.

The first time I came to Qixiang Building was in the winter when the Spring Festival was coming. At the beginning of the night market, there were no guests. The grandmothers downstairs are making zongzi quickly. When they see that I am holding four zongzi to buy, they should stop it quickly. I didn't understand it, but my grandmother said to me, "this has been cold for a long time." You wait for the next pot, and the fresh pot tastes better. " I really feel good about it for a moment.

When I walked to the second floor, the window was open, and there was ventilation around, and no one came to greet me when I sat down. Just like at home, I went to get cups, bowls, chopsticks and water cups for washing, and then the proprietress appeared beside me to place an order for us. I ordered eight-treasure roast duck, diced pork tenderloin fried with herring, fried pork gizzard with Dutch beans, and three-silk fish maw soup. Among them, Babao duck and fish belly soup are kung fu dishes, and the procedures are very troublesome.

Eight-treasure roast duck should be boned first, then lotus seeds, lilies, coix seed, chestnuts, ginkgo, mushrooms, salted eggs, lean meat and glutinous rice are added, then the duck neck is tied tightly, skinned, fried and stewed in soup for several hours. It smells delicious after being cut, and tastes like jiaozi in the shape of a duck. But the weather is too cold, duck oil and sauce will soon solidify, affecting the taste.

Fish belly soup costs 20 yuan a pot, but the process is complicated. After the fish belly is fried in oil, simmer, boil and shred, and the soup will be very fragrant, and it should be pushed thin and thickened into the egg custard. Without any steps, the fish belly can't be extremely soft. It's not easy to fry diced pork tenderloin with vegetarian fish. After the shad is peeled, the meat is ground into smooth fish, and then kneaded into olive-shaped fish, without the smell of fried fish with cashew nuts and horseshoes. It is delicious.

It is worth mentioning that the proprietress is very talkative. Since we placed the order, she has been discouraging us from ordering too much, and introduced the practice of various dishes in detail. I asked her with a smile, aren't we afraid of stealing teachers? She replied, how can young people nowadays stand this kind of trouble? I'm not afraid that you stole the teacher, but I'm afraid that the craft will be lost!

I heard that the pudding was slightly sour and speechless, so I had to come over and eat more.

In addition, eating in summer will be better than the experience in winter, because vegetables will not freeze and solidify so quickly.