Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Weather forecast - Is the wave formed because of the friction between air and seawater or because of the change of air pressure? Thank you very much ! !

Is the wave formed because of the friction between air and seawater or because of the change of air pressure? Thank you very much ! !

I think it's the change of seawater temperature. Low temperature seawater, kinetic energy of molecules is small and has high density, while high temperature seawater, kinetic energy of molecules is large and has low density. So the water pressure formed by dense cold water in the ocean is greater than that of hot water. In the ocean, cold water will sink and hot water will float. When hot water floats to the upper layer, cold water will supplement the space below the hot water layer at the bottom layer due to high pressure, thus forming a cold and hot circulation ocean current, such as the Peruvian warm current.

Waves are not only related to the temperature of the ocean itself, but also to the rotation of the earth, the friction of the air and the attraction between the moon and other stars such as pop stars and comets. The formation of the temperature of seawater itself is related to atmospheric pressure, the rotation and revolution of the earth and the position change between the sun. When you talk about "waves", I don't think waves are ocean currents. Waves occur on the surface of seawater and should be closely related to air friction. The wind direction and wind strength should be explained in the maritime weather forecast. For example, it is mentioned in the forecast that XX winds prohibit fishermen from working. The formation of waves is also caused by sea water friction, but it is not the main factor compared with air friction here. For example, the waves and ripples caused by pushing water in a large indoor swimming pool are caused by friction between fluid and other factors, not air friction.

Then the final answer should be air friction.

I didn't notice the air pressure in the question that day. Add:

The wind is formed by the pressure gradient force, which is formed by the atmospheric temperature difference. Therefore, the direct cause of wave formation is the friction between air and seawater, and the fundamental reason is that the atmospheric temperature difference leads to the change of air pressure, which produces gradient force, thus forming sea breeze and then rubbing against seawater.

I thought the same thing.